Givaudan Active Beauty expands its portfolio with the launch of [N.A.S.] Rosemary 01, a functional cosmetic ingredient and alternative to butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) that "surpasses its efficacy in a natural and organic way", according to Givaudan Active Beauty. Made by green fractionation from sustainable rosemary sourced mainly from Morocco, this new ingredient is said to offer antioxidant benefits superior to BHT and BHA and some natural solutions, while protecting botanical oils and stabilizing colors.
The ability to offer beauty products that perfectly retain their appearance, smell and color is essential in the cosmetics industry. This proof of product quality, visible to the consumer, ensures a positive perception and contributes to loyalty. However, it is still difficult today for formulators to create a formulation of 100 % natural origin due to the use of synthetic preservatives.
[N.A.S.] Rosemary 01 is a cosmos-approved ingredient made by green fractionation from hand-picked rosemary leaves, mainly sustainably sourced from the Atlas Mountains in Morocco.
Controlled by IDPack1With a comprehensive set of analyses including botanical observation, DNA analysis, HPTLC and HPLC measurement, this antioxidant solution is able to offer pure, natural claims to the cosmetics market.
Yohan Rolland, Global Category Manager, said: "The current set of synthetic antioxidants used in cosmetic products, such as BHA, BHT and synthetic tocopherols, are effective but challenged by a growing number of consumers. Our scientists have taken on the challenge of finding organic and even more effective alternatives to offer formulators a sustainable way to create finished cosmetic products with ingredients of 100 % natural origin."
Several tests have been carried out to demonstrate the effectiveness of [N.A.S.] Rosemary 01 compared to synthetic antioxidants. According to Givaudan Active Beauty, all demonstrated superior efficacy under difficult conditions of temperature and light exposure.
This demonstrates, according to the company:
- that [N.A.S.] Rosemary 01 is an antioxidant, 2.3 times more effective than BHT, and 3.3 times more effective than BHA ,
- that it can protect an MCT oil-soluble dye more than twice as well as BHT and its synthetic competitor,
- that it can protect water-soluble dyes in emulsion more than twice as well as BHT and synthetic tocopherols.
"[N.A.S.] Rosemary 01 outperforms synthetic antioxidants in every category, making it one of the best natural alternatives on the cosmetics market."says Givaudan Active Beauty.
1. IDPack was developed by Givaudan Active Beauty's phytochemists to characterize the unique composition of a botanical raw material in order to demonstrate authenticity.