Les 15 et 16 octobre 2025 se tiendra, pour la 11e année consécutive, le salon international Cosmetic 360, à Paris au Carrousel du Louvre.
Amandine Goubert, directrice recherche & innovation de Cosmetic Valley, organisateur du salon, nous en dit plus sur ce rendez-vous mondial des innovations et des tendances de la filière parfumerie-cosmétique.
Rissmann est un concepteur et producteur de packagings secondaires haut de gamme en papier et carton, en Europe, en Asie et en Amérique. Dans sa collection des coffrets livrés à plat, Gamma revendique une forme classique et raffinée. Sa structure en carton et papier FSC entièrement personnalisable lui permet d’être transformé rapidement en un coffret aux finitions impeccables.
La boîte Gamma peut être fixée par un ruban adhésif prévu à cet effet, si souhaité. Dans le cas contraire, elle est facilement repliable et réutilisable. Un ruban de papier habilement intégré fait office de fermeture et ajoute une touche d’élégance ultime, pour un cadeau prêt-à-offrir.
Sa fonctionnalité n’est pas seulement liée à son mode de livraison et de stockage à plat, mais aussi à la polyvalence de son utilisation : des cales intérieures en carton personnalisées peuvent être ajoutées pour maintenir solidement différentes références de produits.
En combinant des process de production automatisés, semi-automatisés et manuels, suivant les projets, Rissmann cherche à offrir à ses clients des produits haut de gamme au meilleur rapport qualité/prix.
Far from being superficial products, cosmetics are essential products that contribute in many ways to a person’s overall well-being. Understanding their mechanisms of action and formulation and measuring their benefits are the fruits of today’s science for tomorrow. This is reflected in the 68 oral presentations and 900 posters that have just been evaluated and selected from nearly 1,200 submissions for the IFSCC 2025 Congress. Coming from 55 different and varied affiliations, the 68 oral presentations offer maximum visibility to a wide range of research teams. 14 countries are represented. 10% of the podium places go to the Americas, 40% to Asia and 50% to Europe and Africa. 3 countries stand out, reflecting their significant research activity in the field of cosmetics and the richness of their ecosystem: France, China and South Korea. Isabelle Castiel-Higounenc, Vice President and Chair of Science of the IFSCC 2025 Congress, discusses the high number of applications and the reasons behind it, as well as the highlights and discoveries that make the 2025 edition so unique.
Isabelle Castiel-Higounenc: Since its inception in Munich in 1960, the IFSCC Congress has become the international meeting place for all experts involved in cosmetic research. Until 2022, a congress and a smaller symposium were held simultaneously every two years. The increase in the number of participants has led to the decision to organise a large annual congress from 2023 onwards. In 2025, we expect record attendance, which I attribute to three main factors:
A post-COVID recovery. The COVID period led to a proliferation of digital events. However, the various stakeholders are happy to return to in-person events, which are much more conducive to exchanges in general and in our world of research in particular. This partly explains the increase in the number of participants over the last three years.
The appeal of the location, and not just because of the French Riviera. France is renowned for the richness of its industrial and scientific ecosystem in the cosmetics sector, its second largest economic sector. It also ranked first in scientific research at the previous congress*. This is therefore a unique opportunity for participants, half of whom come from Asia, to explore this ecosystem further and consider potential collaborations.
Perceived quality and originality. The scientific committee paid particular attention to developing the scientific programme for the congress, communicating widely about its intention to explore new avenues for inventing the future of cosmetics through science. We identified and invited speakers recognised for their expertise in their field and their communication skills. We also decided to design the programme in such a way as to encourage participants to step outside their comfort zone and provide them with new keys to innovation, in particular through cross fertilization with scientific fields other than cosmetology. This is the aim of the ‘Out of the Box’ sessions organised in the morning and the round table with experts in space research. This is a subject that is particularly close to my heart. For the past three years, I have been collaborating with another conference on health and space, with the aim of bringing these two scientific ecosystems closer together so that they can collaborate more and enrich each other to innovate in their respective fields. Space conditions offer an environment that is particularly conducive to certain types of procedures that must be carried out in microgravity. They also allow us to study certain clinical disorders that develop at an accelerated rate in space, such as skin ageing.
(1) Countries are awarded points based on the number of their members and the extent and quality of their participation in the congress of the year, in this case referring to the year 2024.
Isabelle Castiel-Higounenc: This is the ideal place if you want to share your results and technological innovations with your community, but also stay at the forefront of scientific advances and explore new avenues. Scientific quality and rigour were essential selection criteria for the abstracts presented. The scientific committee was very selective, rejecting around 14% of abstracts. The fact that your abstract has been selected for presentation as a poster or podium presentation is therefore already a guarantee of quality.
Beyond recognition, the conference offers them visibility, as the IFSCC Awards Committee will present three awards based on the work selected by the conference’s Scientific Committee: Best Poster, Best Oral Presentation in Applied Research and Best Oral Presentation in Fundamental Research. We will also announce the top 10 for each of the three themes addressed during the conference. The selected authors, research teams or companies will then be able to share this recognition of the excellence of their work or technologies in order to foster new scientific collaborations or support the launch of new products incorporating the award-winning results or technologies.
Isabelle Castiel-Higounenc: Anonymity is naturally an advantage, but it also presents a real challenge. We had to ensure that there were no conflicts of interest, in other words, that reviewers did not evaluate any abstracts or full papers from their own affiliation. The expertise of the reviewers was also assessed and recorded on the platform, while allowing each reviewer to decline if they did not feel competent on a subject. As all abstracts were in English, none of the reviewers could be influenced in their evaluation by the country of origin or even the reputation of the author or research team that submitted the abstract, as all this data was anonymised. This evaluation work was carried out by four Scientific Group Leaders, each overseeing the review of nearly 300 abstracts by approximately 25 reviewers.
Due to my affiliation and professional ethics, I wished to remain impartial and not participate in the evaluation process. As Chair of Science, my role was to manage and ensure the smooth running of this process, which involved nearly 95 reviewers from 72 different affiliations, representing an equal number of cosmetics companies, suppliers, independents, CROs and academics from France and elsewhere. The diversity of these profiles and affiliations, the validation of their respective expertise, the blind evaluation process free from bias, and the supervision and final arbitration by four different Scientific Group Leaders ensure, for authors and participants alike, the smooth running and rigour of the selection process and the very high quality of the selected abstracts. This was our ambition.
Isabel Castiel-Higounenc: We have ensured that the programme reflects the vision of the congress, namely science at the heart of the future of cosmetics. ‘The Future is Science’
On the first day, we will look at new trends in research direction. First, we will explore skin and hair health. On this subject, while the line between medicines and cosmetics is clearly defined, in terms of approach, the way in which skin health is addressed reveals areas of overlap in terms of research. Cosmetics address not only beauty issues but also well-being and, in some cases, health. One example is photoprotection: sunscreen products, which are a public health issue. As a reminder, 90% of skin cancers are directly linked to sun exposure, and 1.5 million new cases appear each year. Similarly, 80% of the signs of ageing are directly attributable to sun exposure.
Secondly, through the lens of cognitive science and neuroscience, we will try to understand what influences consumers’ product choices beyond simple biological effectiveness, i.e. what selection criteria they use. These new sciences should also enable us to better understand sensoriality, what the application of a product generates in terms of sensations and emotions, and how this contributes to overall satisfaction in terms of effectiveness, beauty and consumer well-being.
On the second day, we wanted to address two specific topics from the perspective of a new holistic approach to cosmetics. The first was the microbiome, because we no longer consider the skin or hair to be a single organ, but rather a tissue within a global ecosystem that interacts with our human cells. Secondly, longevity is taking precedence over anti-ageing. In cosmetics, longevity does not mean prolonging life expectancy. It means living as long as possible in beauty and good health. This is the difference between lifespan and healthspan. To keep skin beautiful and healthy for longer, we now know that a holistic approach is necessary. This involves combining several targets – prevention, regeneration and activation – and simultaneously treating structural, cellular and tissue dysfunctions, while taking into account the influence of other tissues such as blood vessels, nerves and muscles.
On the third day, we will look at how cosmetics are adapting to the diversity of consumers worldwide, taking into account their different skin and hair types and routines. At the same time, we will see how new beauty technologies are supporting this diversity approach, enabling increasingly tailored and personalised products to be offered.
Isabelle Castiel-Higounenc: When reading the abstracts submitted by participants, we see that all areas of cosmetics are represented: from make-up, perfumes and hair care to beauty tech, exposome, microbiome, longevity and anti-ageing. Anti-ageing and longevity remain the most important topics, followed by photoprotection, neuroscience and the microbiome. We are seeing a rise in research focusing on neuroscience, cognitive science, sensoriality and emotions.
Sustainability, which was still a new topic just a few years ago, is now a cross-cutting issue that applies to all areas of research. It is becoming essential for innovation in cosmetics today. This is a very positive development. Just as with product safety, optimising sustainability in the development and production of cosmetics has become a prerequisite, and all players in the cosmetics industry, each at their own level, are contributing to advancing research in this area.
Isabelle Castiel-Higounenc: With its highly cross-disciplinary theme, this congress highlights a wide range of topics. However, this year’s event will focus on the growing integration of AI in cosmetic research, new discoveries in understanding the effects of ageing, studies on the relationships between different tissues, the skin, the nervous and vascular systems, the development of new evaluation methods and in vitro skin study models, numerous new ingredients derived from green science and biotechnology, and increasing research into understanding sensations and emotions.
Isabelle Castiel-Higounenc: These discoveries will provide a better understanding of consumers and their needs, but will also enable us to identify new targets, create innovative approaches and develop more effective technologies to better address classic cosmetic issues such as photoprotection, hair quality and skin ageing. They will contribute to offering increasingly personalised solutions, while optimising the ecological impact of cosmetic products through more environmentally friendly products. Finally, they will go beyond the notion of ‘beauty’ performance to embrace a concept of overall health and well-being.
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Vice-President & Chair of Science at IFSCC Congress 2025
Vice-President IFSCC
Innovation Valorization Director
Communications & Engagement, L’Oréal Research & Innovation, France
Passionate about scientific research and communication, Isabelle Castiel-Higounenc is convinced of the essentiality of cosmetics and their importance for the beauty and health of our skin, hair and our quality of life. Isabelle joined the L’Oréal Group over 27 years ago, with the aim of putting her skills at the service of innovation in cosmetics. Driven by scientific research and the sharing of knowledge, she now contributes to bringing the Group’s scientific expertise to as many people as possible.
Researcher by training, Isabelle is a pharmacist with a Ph.D in dermo-pharmacology. She joined the L’Oréal Group in 1997 as Laboratory Manager, where she carried out research into skin homeostasis. She went on to become Scientific Director for a variety of projects. She first led a research project on menopause, in collaboration with Université de Laval in Quebec. She then devoted several years to oral cosmetics, with Innéov, where she directed upstream research in collaboration with Nestlé. At the same time, Isabelle turned her attention to dermatological care with Galderma, where she coordinated scientific exchanges with L’Oréal. She joined the R&I Communications Department in 2014. Her years in Research teams drove to the release of 28 scientific publications and many patents.
Today, as Director of Innovation Valorization at L’Oréal, she promotes the Group’s scientific expertise and its ambitions in terms of innovation. Her objective: scientific advocacy, to gain recognition for the excellence of L’Oréal’s research and innovations from a wide variety of audiences, including experts, the media and the public. Drawing on her dual expertise in research and communications, she supports researchers and brands in developing communications strategies around major innovations or new scientific territories.
As an active member of the IFSCC (International federation of societies of cosmetic chemists) on behalf of the SFC (Société Française de Cosmétologie) since 2022, she has been appointed IFSCC vice-president for the year 2024-2025. She is currently co- organizing the 35th IFSCC congress 2025, as Vice President and Chair of Science.
The scientific committee for the IFSCC 2025 congress brings together experts from various academic and industrial backgrounds. It is headed by Isabelle Castiel-Higounenc, PharmD, PhD, vice-president and Chair of Science of the IFSCC congress 2025, Marc Pissavini, Vice-Chair of Science and scientific group leader, and Professor Marc G.J. Feuilloley, Dr Nicolas Forraz and Christophe Paillet, PhD, all three also scientific group leaders. The role of the scientific committee was to work with the IFSCC Congress 2025 President, Christine Lafforgue, to establish the scientific programme in line with the Congress vision and to evaluate the approximately 1,200 abstracts received with professionalism and impartiality. The process was anonymised and supported by a rigorously configured platform with limited access based on user profiles to avoid any risk of collusion. The four scientific group leaders each supervised around 25 reviewers, and each group evaluated around 300 abstracts. They are currently preparing to evaluate the full papers, which will be scored out of 30 points. The evaluation will then be completed by the awards committee, which will award an additional mark out of 15 during the oral presentations at the conference. The anonymity of the authors and their affiliations will be lifted at the end of July, once the evaluation of the full papers has been completed.
Marc Pissavini is a renowned scientist with extensive experience in the field of photoprotection and method development. In 2024, he became a visiting professor at the Department of Chemistry Education at the Faculty of Sciences of the University of Montpellier. As the head of Coty Sun Research laboratory, he is responsible for leading photoprotection research and developing advanced methods to evaluate the effectiveness of sunscreen products. He is an associate editor of the International Journal of Cosmetic Science. He has served as Chairman of the working group on sunscreen methodology for Cosmetics Europe since 2012. He is also currently the Chairman of the working group 7 of ISO TC217 – Sunscreen Testing Methods.
Marc Feuilloley is Professor at the University of Rouen Normandy. He was Director of the Laboratory of Microbiology Signals and Microenvironment (LMSM EA4312) for 12 years and is now head of the team “Communication in the Human Microbiota” of UR4312 CBSA and Director the Centre of Expertise Cosmetomics@URN. He is the author of 256 articles in international peered journals. (H-index: 50)
Dr Nicolas Forraz is Chief Executive officer of CTIBiotech. He has extensive expertise stem cells, regenerative medicine and 3D Tissue and with Professor Colin McGuckin was part of the team who created the world’s first artificial hepatic-like liver tissue and neural cells from human umbilical cord blood. Dr Forraz has spear-headed the 43 million Euro consortium generation of the IMODI Cancer project, the largest cancer research project of France. He served between 2019 and 2022 as the President of Cosmet’in Lyon Skin Science.
Christophe Paillet is a Chemical Engineer in Organic Chemistry & Ph.D. in Organometallic Chemistry (University Lyon I, France), Post doc in Homogenous catalysis. He is the Director of the Cosmetic Ingredients Department at Exsymol.
The ‘out of the box’ morning sessions by Paul Matt, Gilles Bœuf and Luc Julia, have been designed to inspire unconventional thinking and explore the unexpected as a source of creativity for cosmetology.
As an industry, it is my perception that we are all too often unnecessarily apologetic for our technology, where even we seem to believe phrases such as “hope in a jar”. I for one have never embraced such notions and remain a passionate believer in the essentiality of cosmetic technology and efficacy. Skin has two critical functions, firstly as an entropy-regulator, an interface with an inherently hostile universe and, secondly, as a powerful organ of non-verbal communication… where skin speaks long before the mouth. The true function of biology is most often revealed in challenge / stress scenarios, and this is especially true of skin. In this presentation, therefore, I will discuss the challenges to skin health in resource-poor settings and use case-studies from my direct experience in Ethiopia and Tanzania to bring to life the profound essentiality of cosmetic essentiality… dispelling the myth of the “humble moisturiser”.
This presentation explores the ocean’s vast, unique, and threatened biodiversity, emphasizing its interconnectedness, stability, and salinity. We will highlight the ocean’s crucial role in climate regulation and discuss the concerning impacts of rapid changes driven by human activities. The importance of biodiversity in protecting against zoonotic diseases will be underscored, alongside the concept of One Health – the interconnectedness of human, animal, and ecosystem health. We will then explore how the study of marine organisms, especially those thriving in extreme environments, can inspire innovations in medicine, cosmetics, and other fields, drawing on specific examples of molecules and organisms with valuable properties. Finally, we will emphasize the urgent need to protect the ocean for both its own sake and humanity’s future. This involves focusing on sustainable resource management, pollution control, and mitigating the effects of climate change. We will explore how biomimicry – innovation inspired by nature – can be a powerful tool in addressing these challenges.
Despite a chaotic history and its existence since the 1950s, « Artificial Intelligence » made a huge comeback in the last decade. But as it stands, this « Artificial Intelligence » brings its share of unrealistic promises worthy of Hollywood films, allowing some charlatans to suggest machines could one day seize power and subjugate humanity. This hyperbole risks jeopardizing research in the field, threatening advancements in disciplines like machine learning and deep learning, which are still nascent and hold immense potential for benefiting humanity.
The Future is Science…But Could It Be Written in the Stars?
Is the next frontier of cosmetic innovation waiting beyond Earth’s atmosphere? Join us for a groundbreaking roundtable exploring the untapped potential of space research for the future of beauty. Discover the exciting ecosystem of space agencies, orbiting laboratories, and unique opportunities for conducting experiments in the extreme environment of microgravity.
There are so many shared challenges and synergies between space and cosmetic research, including: Ageing, sustainability, safety, digital innovation, advanced visualization technologies like hyperspectral imaging, and even formulation assistance, where understanding ingredient interactions can lead to entirely new approaches to cosmetic product development.
Uncover how microgravity and other space-based conditions can reveal novel insights and accelerate breakthroughs in cosmetic science. Dare to imagine the unimaginable: What if the future of your research, and the key to truly revolutionary innovations, lies not in the lab, but in space itself? This is not just science; it’s the cosmic potential waiting to be harnessed.
6 speakers, Prof. Thierry Passeron, Prof. David Sander, Prof. Marc-André Selosse, Prof. Jin Qu, Prof. Nina Jablonski and Dr Anke Hadasch will each introduce one of the scientific half-days of the congress, following the ‘out of the box’ morning sessions
Our knowledge of the damage induced on the skin by exposure to the sun, whether UVB, UVA or visible light, is constantly consolidating. We know more and more about the damage directly induced at cellular and clinical level, depending on the wavelength of exposure. Despite this, there are many preconceived ideas, resulting in inappropriate behavior towards the sun and inadequate skin protection. In this presentation, we will review the clinical impacts of sun exposure according to the type of radiation, the importance of a tailored photoprotection adapted to the skin type, geographical location and potential dermatoses. With regard to the points for improvement concerning suncare products, we’ll focus on the importance of developing suncare products adapted to each individual and each skin type, as well as the need to improve the information provided to users on the exact protection offered to them. Finally, we’ll look at the photoprotection of the future, discussing the optimal filtration to be provided according to the skin disorders we want to prevent, and the different ingredients or approaches that can be combined to filters to improve skin protection against solar radiation and preserve its health and integrity.
Emotions are complex and fascinating affective processes that have been studied since antiquity as psychological, physiological, and social phenomena. In recent decades, new methodological tools and theoretical approaches to emotions have fueled the emergence of affective sciences and the rise of affectivism. At the core of this advancement is the domain of affective neuroscience, which has significantly deepened our understanding of the nature and functions of emotion. This progress is closely tied to the challenge of conceptualizing and measuring emotions. In this IFSCC presentation, I will introduce a general model of emotion and explore the neuroscience of emotion, including recent debates and future perspectives. I will propose a multi-componential definition of emotion: a particular event is first appraised by the individual based on their current concerns, values, and goals (or, more broadly, their motivational processes). This appraisal can then elicit an emotional response across multiple components, including autonomic physiology, action tendencies, expression, and subjective feelings. These processes, in turn, modulate cognitive functions such as attention, memory, learning, and decision-making. The interactions among these mechanisms involve complex neural networks—ranging from small to large scale—that constitute the emotional brain.
We see ourselves and our societies so autonomous and distant of Nature that we miss… what we are, and our links to other living beings. We see microbes as negative encounters, and miss them as permanent supports and helpers of our lives. The raising awareness of microbiota challenges a bit this, but we are still reluctant to understand how exactly we depend on them to achieve a healthy life. And we mostly focus on the intestinal microbiota, a quite powerful player of our development and physiology indeed. Yet, we remains poorly aware and active on an abundant microbiota we more easily see, smell and touch—the one we can the most harm of sustain: the skin microbiota.
Largely devoted to protective functions, our skin microbiota is a natural fur which we do not protect enough. Excessive washing, with detergents, bactericides (e.g. virucide gels) and extreme physical disturbance (e.g. peeling) harm it. Application of products containing emulsifiers, antioxidants and bacteriostatic compounds also have negative effects. After examining why we became so dependent on this tinny microbial layer (our skin biofilms) in evolutionary terms, we will explore pathways to make ours skin alive again.
In response to a variety of stress factors, certain cells in our organs undergo a transition into a state of senescence, contributing to the accumulation of such cells in different organs as part of the aging process. These senescent cells play a role in the structural and functional decline of organs and are associated with degenerativediseases. Targeting these cells is a critical aspect of the broader strategy to combataging and help to rejuvenate. However, the heterogeneity of senescent cells and their ambiguous characteristics in vivo pose challenges, exacerbated by the lack of efficient methods for their detection and targeted intervention within the body. Dr. Jing Qu is committed to investigating both the driving causes and in vivo impacts of senescent cells. Her research interest is to uncover novel biomarkers and develop intervention strategies to manage cellular senescence and the degeneration in organ structure and functionality.
Everything about human skin — from its basic structure and function, to its color and aging characteristics — is the product of evolution. In this lecture, we will explore the spectacular story of the evolution of human skin. This overview will examine the latest evidence on the evolution of the skin’s barrier functions, sweating abilities, intrinsic color and tanning properties, and the effects of environmental pollution on skin function and aging. We will discuss how skin specialists of all kinds can deal with the challenges presented by human ongoing genetic admixture and urbanization, and how we can overcome the many problems caused by legacies of colonialism and racism in medicine and skin care. We will see that by understanding the evolution and recent history of skin, we can better appreciate all aspects of this remarkable organ and understand how to treat every individual human more effectively.
Imagine a world where every color of beauty is inclusive and powered by best-in-class color science. Join us to discover the unique holistic approach by connecting art, science, and technology to create the best performing and most desirable colors for everyone.
We’ll provide an overview of the worldwide multicultural beauty studies on face, lips and hair enabling the color creation that is inclusive by design. Unveiling disruptive and sustainable pigment technologies that deliver unprecedented vibrancy on all skin tones. Delve into cognitive color studies revealing the emotions of lip colors and learn how this research is augmenting lip color formulation and personalization. Gain insights into a data driven approach to develop predictive formulation algorithms and digital tools. Join this session and shape the future of beauty powered by color science.
Vous avez lu la version papier du numéro 46 de la revue Industries Cosmétiques et vous avez envie d’en savoir plus ? Voici un complément exclusif !
Aptar Beauty revendique le fait de développer et de valoriser une approche d’inclusivité, ce qui implique de concevoir un design minimaliste et fonctionnel. « Que ce soit d’un point de vue durabilité ou inclusivité, nous cherchons, par exemple, à retirer l’excédent pour offrir à une expérience utilisateur plus simple et un design qui, quelque part, aura une meilleure lisibilité et une meilleure compréhension de l’usage. Les deux approches – durabilité et design minimaliste – vont se servir l’un l’autre. Et apporter aussi de l’ergonomie et de la liberté d’utilisation pour les consommateurs », argumente Manon Rollet, Innovation design manager chez Aptar.
Aptar Beauty a travaillé avec l’Association France Handicap pour développer un processus à la fois de sensibilisation et de co-création de produits avec des personnes ayant des problèmes de motricité. L’inclusivité, au même titre que la sustainability, fait désormais partie des critères dont ses designers initialement tiennent compte.
« En outre, certains de nos produits comme l’Aérosol Gladiator offrent déjà une bonne ergonomie, notamment pour des personnes avec une motricité fine réduite. La pompe Vita, qui peut s’utiliser à une main sur une table, fait également partie des produits déjà inclusifs. D’autres composants ont été pensés, eux, pour s’adapter à des textures qui facilitent des gestuelles de twist. Comme il y a de moins en moins de capots et de plus en plus de systèmes twist to lock sur le marché, nous essayons de faire en sorte que ce soit facile à utiliser, peu importe la force des utilisateurs », explique Manon Rollet.
Yaël Zajac
Vous avez lu la version papier du numéro 46 de la revue Industries Cosmétiques et vous avez envie d’en savoir plus ? Voici un complément exclusif !
La démarche d’écoconception et de design minimaliste s’est vraiment accélérée à l’arrivée de Priscille Allais, PDG de Cosmogen depuis 2019. Elle a été particulièrement à l’écoute des équipes qui étaient convaincues de cette nécessité pour traiter le sujet de la durabilité. Outre le bon sens et la responsabilité, la réglementation impose peu à peu ce minimalisme. Cosmogen préfère l’anticiper.
L’adoption d’une approche minimaliste se traduit par une économie de matière, une diminution du nombre de pièces nécessaires à la fabrication, réduisant d’autant le nombre d’opérations industrielles. Même si certaines de ces opérations peuvent exiger une plus grande minutie, l’impact global reste positif : moins de ressources consommées, moins d’énergie dépensée pour la production et l’assemblage, et in fine, une empreinte environnementale allégée. C’est une synergie où la simplicité du design contribue concrètement à la durabilité. Notre R-Brush 100, un pinceau sans virole en 100 % RPET, en est un exemple. La diminution de son empreinte carbone a été mesurée par rapport à un pinceau traditionnel. Autre exemple : pour Cosmo Gloss, nous avons remplacé l’applicateur floqué (constitué historiquement de la matière de l’embout, de la colle et des fibres) par une seule matière micro texturée.
L’évolution vers des produits minimalistes revient à repenser l’usage, la conception et la production d’un produit dans son ensemble, comprenant par exemple de nouveaux moules ou encore le sourcing de nouveaux matériaux, mais aussi des tests d’efficacité, de solidité, etc. C’est une démarche de transformation et d’innovation avec de plus en plus de facteurs à considérer, dont celui de qualité perçue, intrinsèque au luxe.
Propos recueillis par Yaël Zajac
Groupe GM, spécialiste international des produits d’accueil hôteliers, propose une ligne solaire exclusive développée en collaboration avec la marque Hei Poa.
Connue pour incarner la beauté, la naturalité et l’âme de la Polynésie grâce à son huile de Monoï iconique, la marque Hei Poa est à l’origine d’une formule solaire SPF 50, « à la fois luxueuse, respectueuse de l’environnement marin et hautement hydratante. »
Conçus pour offrir une protection durable, les produits solaires Hei Poa sont destinés aux clients souhaitant profiter pleinement d’une journée ensoleillée. « Alliant confort, efficacité et engagement écologique, cette ligne répond aux attentes croissantes en matière d’articles d’accueil propres, sensoriels et respectueux de la peau comme de la planète », indique-t-on chez Groupe GM.
Composés jusqu’à 96 % d’ingrédients d’origine naturelle, chaque formule – dont le parfum évoque les vacances – est enrichie en huile de Monoï, reconnue pour ses propriétés hydratantes, sa capacité à réparer les cheveux secs ou abîmés et à laisser la peau souple, lumineuse et délicatement parfumée.
La ligne Hei Poa est composée de soins solaires essentiels, conçus pour protéger, apaiser et nourrir la peau exposée au soleil.
Produit phare de la gamme, le Lait Solaire Fondant SPF 50 Résistant à l’Eau en tube de 40 ml offre une protection large spectre UVA/UVB. Sa formule respectueuse des océans convient à tous les types de peau, y compris aux femmes enceintes ou allaitantes. Enrichi en Monoï de Tahiti et extraits végétaux bio antioxydants, il préserve l’éclat naturel de la peau tout en la protégeant efficacement. Sa texture légère, non grasse et non collante, fond sur la peau en laissant un sillage délicat de fleurs polynésiennes.
Le Gel Fraîcheur Après-Soleil, également en format 40 ml, apaise, hydrate et régénère la peau. Sa formule, à base de Monoï de Tahiti AO et d’Aloe Vera bio, apporte jusqu’à 24 heures d’hydratation. Ultra-rafraîchissant et rapidement absorbé, il calme les peaux échauffées par le soleil, soulage les sensations d’inconfort et prévient la sécheresse et la desquamation.
Enfin, l’Huile Pure de Monoï de Tahiti, proposée en flacon de 30 ml, complète le rituel. Élaborée selon la tradition polynésienne à partir de fleurs de tiaré macérées dans de l’huile de coco, cette huile culte est riche en acides gras essentiels (oméga-9, oméga-6, acide laurique) et en vitamine E, offrant un soin en profondeur à la peau comme aux cheveux. À appliquer après la douche, en soin capillaire ou lors d’un massage, elle invite à un moment de détente absolue
Les tubes du lait solaire et du gel après-soleil sont fabriqués à partir de canne à sucre et dotés de bouchons en plastique recyclé, tandis que le flacon de l’huile de Monoï est en plastique recyclé.
Cette ligne exclusive s’inscrit dans le programme environnemental Care About Earth de Groupe GM, qui vise à réduire l’impact écologique de ses produits tout en promouvant une approche éthique et durable de l’hospitalité.
« Nous sommes fiers de proposer la ligne solaire hôtelière Hei Poa, une collection vibrante qui incarne l’esprit de la Polynésie et la légèreté estivale. Formulés avec exigence, ces soins offrent une protection solaire fiable et un véritable moment d’évasion sensorielle. En associant ingrédients naturels et emballages responsables, nous permettons à nos clients de prendre soin d’eux au quotidien, tout en respectant la planète », indique Laurent Marchand, président de Groupe GM.
L’Union européenne a interdit l’utilisation du silicone D5 dans les produits de soins personnels à partir de 2027. Brenntag Beauty & Personal Care et Seneca Polytechnic collaborent pour étudier les alternatives possibles en mettant l’accent sur les antitranspirants et les déodorants, les soins capillaires et les applications de soins de la peau.
Le groupe allemand Brenntag est un spécialiste mondial de la distribution de produits chimiques et d’ingrédients. Seneca Polytechnic est un établissement d’enseignement et de recherche canadien.
Le projet de recherche commun aux deux entités est rendu possible grâce à une subvention de recherche appliquée et de développement du Conseil de recherches en sciences naturelles et en génie du Canada.
Le remplacement du silicone D5 représente un défi important pour les formulateurs en raison de ses propriétés uniques dans les applications de consommation finale. Le projet vise à évaluer les propriétés physicochimiques de divers substituts du D5 dans des applications finales clés, dans le but d’identifier comment les différentes options fonctionnent dans ces applications, ce qui permettra d’élaborer un guide réactif et une feuille de route pour les substituts à l’intention des clients.
Maia Navarrete, Senior Director Personal Care Americas chez Brenntag Specialties, a commenté : « Dans le cadre de notre programme d’innovation et d’application en expansion, ce projet de recherche fondamentale avec Seneca Polytechnic soutiendra la croissance de notre clientèle en offrant des alternatives sûres et durables au silicone D5, répondant à leurs besoins de conformité dans des applications finales clés telles que les antisudorifiques et les revitalisants capillaires. Les clients bénéficieront d’un soutien précieux en matière de formulation pour les guider sur les différentes options de compensation en fonction de leurs applications finales. »
« Les forces du marché stimulent l’innovation, et ce projet donne aux étudiants de Seneca Polytechnic l’occasion de participer à des recherches novatrices et de se familiariser avec les besoins de l’industrie en matière d’adaptation aux changements du marché, a indiqué Ben Rogers, doyen de la recherche au sein de l’établissement. Le Seneca Centre for Innovation in Life Sciences a été créé pour aider l’industrie à répondre à l’évolution des demandes du marché tout en permettant aux étudiants d’appliquer leur expertise technique à la résolution de problèmes concrets. Ce projet illustre la valeur ajoutée du SCILS. »
La culture coréenne a le vent en poupe. L’industrie de la beauté n’y échappe pas. Inspirée par le mouvement K-beauty, elle est florissante. Avec un ingrédient phare : le yuzu.
Largement répandu dans certaines parties de l’Asie de l’Est, en particulier dans les régions du Japon et de la Corée du Sud, le Yuzu est utilisé dans la cuisine, dans les parfums d’intérieur, grâce à son odeur fraîche, et dans les soins de la peau, en raison de sa teneur élevée en vitamine C.
Le caractère frais et captivant de cet agrume a également conquis le monde de la parfumerie. Scentmate by dsm-firmenich, maison de parfums qui aide ses clients à développer des fragrances, met en lumière les facteurs clés de cette percée sans précédent dans le secteur.
Selon la maison de parfum barcelonaise, le yuzu a un arôme frais et citronné, mêlant l’amertume du pamplemousse à la douceur de la mandarine et à de subtiles notes florales vertes. En outre, l’odeur du yuzu est généralement associée à un sentiment d’énergie, de force, d’espoir et d’inspiration.
Il est présent dans de nombreux produits prestigieux et de grande consommation en raison de ses notes fraîches et lumineuses, parfaites pour un parfum non sexiste.
Ces derniers mois, l’entreprise rappelle que nous avons assisté au lancement de parfums à succès qui suivent la tendance du yuzu : Yuzu Zest Cologne de Jo Malone (2024), Classique Pride de J.P. Gaultier (2024), Yuzu de Monotheme (2024) et Forte Oud Yuzu de Guerlain (2023). Il est intéressant de noter que l’une des premières créations mettant en scène cet agrume, Bois de Yuzu de Karl Lagerfeld, a connu une augmentation de 450 % du volume de recherche sur Google au cours des cinq dernières années.
Cosmogen a présenté ses pinceaux et son stick ReUse en aluminium à Luxe Pack New York, en complément des nombreux autres lancements réalisés lors de Paris Packaging Week en janvier. En attendant Luxe Pack Monaco.
Le set de pinceaux de poche est composé de quatre pinceaux professionnels disposant d’un manche en aluminium, sans virole.
La forme, la densité et une texture spécifiques du pinceau fond de teint haute performance permettent d’obtenir un fini parfait selon Cosmogen.
La touffe biseautée du pinceau blush est conçue pour obtenir la touche de couleur idéale. Il s’utilise avec des formules liquides, crèmes ou poudres.
La touffe biseautée et ronde du pinceau correcteur imite la forme du bout des doigts pour une application impeccable du correcteur.
Le pinceau poudre est pensé pour offrir la possibilité de prélever et répartir la quantité idéale de poudre. Il peut être utilisé avec une poudre bronzante ou une poudre fixante.
Cosmogen a également mis en avant son stick ReUse breveté. Étanche à l’eau et rechargeable, il est destiné aux soins solides pour la peau, aux formules hybrides et au maquillage. Auparavant commercialisé en PP monomatériau, il est désormais également disponible avec un habillage en aluminium, avec des finitions argent, or rose et fusil.
900.care choisit le puRe Roll-on de la gamme standard puRe de Hyléance Beauté pour son nouveau déodorant.
La jeune marque engagée et Hyléance (ex-Rovip), expert industriel de l’injection et du packaging, avaient déjà développé de concert des produits d’hygiène originaux.
L’histoire de la collaboration a démarré au sortir des années Covid lorsque 900.care a décidé de lancer une gamme de produits d’hygiène et de soins personnels rechargeables et made in France.
L’idée de la startup : commercialiser des formules solides à diluer pour limiter le recours à l’eau et l’usage d’emballages en plastique.
Sont nés de cette collaboration : une boîte à pastilles dentifrice dotée d’une bague coulissante, un flacon de gel douche dont le bouchon en trois pièces assemblées permet une position tête en bas et une brosse à dents rechargeable au manche allégé injecté par IAG (Injection Assistée Gaz). Cette ligne exécutée en injection cumule design ludique et gestuelle intuitive. Elle requiert le développement de pièces techniques et une solide expertise du packaging et du bouchage.
Depuis l’origine, Hyléance aura soutenu les efforts d’investissement de 900.care et partagé ses défis, activé sa R&D et co-créé des moules et des process. D
Pour sa nouvelle collection destinée aux grandes surfaces et au e-commerce, 900.care a fait le choix de l’élégant modèle puRe Roll-on de la collection puRe d’Hyléance Beauté pour sa faible part plastique, son étanchéité, sa résistance et son design. Hyléance l’a adapté dans un format 50 ml, idéal pour recevoir la pastille et le volume d’eau requis. Le flacon et le capot en PP injectés et teintés masse, présentent une légère transparence permettant de contrôler le niveau de la formule.
L’assemblage des pièces est confié à un Esat local, une démarche qui complète le partage de valeurs qui s’est installé entre les deux sociétés.
« Hyléance a su transformer nos idées en réalité : grâce à cette expertise, nous lançons aujourd’hui un magnifique roll-on rechargeable 50 ml. L’agilité et l’accompagnement d’Hyléance Beauté à chaque étape ont fait de cette collaboration un vrai succès pour 900.care », souligne Thomas Arnaudo, co-créateur de l’entreprise.
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