- advertising -
Home Blog Page 123

HNP Mikrosysteme very present in microencapsulation

In its latest issue (no. 35, September 2022), the magazine Industries Cosmétiques published an article entitled "Pumps and microencapsulation" in which some errors had crept in. We offer below the complete and accurate version of this article. We apologize to our readers and to the manufacturer.

Microencapsulation is becoming increasingly important in the cosmetics, pharmaceutical and food industries.

mzr micropumps from HNP Mikrosysteme are ideal for microencapsulation, as they meet the particular requirements of dynamic, fine, constant dosing with low pulsation and shear stress. Indeed, the prerequisite for the manufacture of microcapsules is the use of extremely precise and repeatable dosing techniques. These micropumps thus provide a safe and appropriate technical solution for the manufacture of pearls or beads encapsulating active ingredients.

Several parameters are required to produce identical quality microcapsules. Flow accuracy, for which the manufacturer claims a tolerance of less than 1 %, is therefore essential for the quality of these capsules. As for viscosity, that of the capsule shell is often in excess of 10,000 mPas, which HNP Mikrosysteme pumps handle perfectly, since they can go up to viscosities of 1,000,000 mPas.

What's more, the manufacturer's pumps operate without shear stress, ensuring that the fluid is not damaged and that cells or suspensions remain intact.

Pumps such as the mzr-11508 or mzr-6305 are therefore ideal for microcapsule production. Both pumps can also be heated. 

HNP Mikrosysteme also produces other pumps and several dosing systems. The manufacturer's range covers dosing from 0.25 µl and volumetric flow rates from 1 µl/h to 1,152 ml/min. Whether in the research laboratory or in production, these fluidic solutions can handle liquids of very different types and textures, with low or high viscosity, low or high aggression, lubricating or non-lubricating, single or multi-phase, at very low or very high temperatures and pressures.

HNPM also manufactures customized fluid systems.

At the IFSCC, BASF presents the results of its current research and innovations in applied method technologies.

At this year's congress of the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC), BASF scientists will be presenting the latest discoveries and research methods for the development of effective cosmetic products. Among the most noteworthy research results is the discovery of the age-related decline in skin bacteria, and the development of a cosmetic ingredient containing living micro-organisms to fill this gap. Other research projects include a new "neuroskin-on-chip" technology used for the first time and developed by Netri to create a 3D internalized skin model, and a joint study with Stanford University on emollients that can reduce skin dryness and promote skin well-being. BASF scientists and experts will discuss the effects and opportunities in poster and panel presentations.


A new method reveals the particularities of sensitive skin


Although the microbiome is known to play an important role in skin health, its influence on skin sensitivity has until now received little attention. In a recent study, BASF scientists examined the composition of the skin microbiota of people with sensitive skin compared to people with non-sensitive skin. The analysis revealed changes in the presence and abundance of common and specific bacterial strains. For the first time, a droplet-based microfluidic technolgy (DBMT) developed by Biomillenia was used to isolate these bacterial strains in culture. The resulting microbial library can be used to identify and test active substances with the best potential for restoring the microbiota balance of sensitive skin.


Neuroskin-on-chip" technology mimics innervated skin

For healthy skin, a functional supply network of nerve cells is an essential factor. To develop and test neurocosmetics that help improve interactions between the skin and the nervous system, and thus reduce signs of aging or skin stress, specific skin models are required. In collaboration with NETRI, a French start-up specializing in the rapid prototyping of "organs on a chip", BASF has succeeded in developing an innervated epidermis on a chip for the first time. Compared with existing models of innervated epidermis or conventional cocultured skin, the new "neuroskin-on-chip" technology better mimics the real innervation physiology of the skin. It thus facilitates and enhances the study of highly effective neurocosmetic active substances.

A selection of emollients promotes skin hydration

How people assess the effectiveness of skincare products is highly dependent on skin hydration and cutaneous biomechanics. To optimize performance, it is therefore important to better understand the effects of biomechanical stresses that occur during dehydration of the stratum corneum. To investigate the influence of cosmetic ingredients at different levels of air and therefore skin humidity, a research team from BASF and Professor Reinhold Dauskardt's laboratory at Stanford University analyzed skin care formulations containing different emollients with very different properties and molecular structures. The results indicate that by carefully selecting emollients and other ingredients, it is possible to reduce biomechanical stress on the skin and promote its well-being.


Anti-aging probiotic ingredient containing live bacteria

Skin aging remains one of the most important areas in cosmetics. To better understand the link between aging and changes in the skin microbiome, BASF researchers conducted a study with young and elderly subjects. It revealed considerable differences in the population of Lactobacillus strains. In particular, L. crispatus was identified as a "youth bacterium": it was present in abundance in young skin, but was not detectable in the folds of older participants. These results formed the basis for the development of a probiotic for skincare products designed to promote healthy skin aging. The research team succeeded in developing a product that guarantees the survival of the bacteria it contains when used in appropriate cosmetic formulations. This makes the ingredient the first cosmetic active based on living, skin-clean bacteria. Its effectiveness in reducing the visible signs of skin ageing has been demonstrated in vitro and in vivo against a placebo.

Strategy to reduce age-related changes in scalp and hair using plant extracts

With age, the structure of the scalp and its ability to regenerate change. As a result, hair loss can occur, which can affect self-confidence and well-being. BASF scientists have developed a comprehensive anti-aging approach for the scalp and hair follicles, based on a tempering strategy and pursuing three main objectives: to reduce scalp sensitivity by protecting the skin barrier, to balance the microbiota and to reduce excessive immune response. To this end, plant extracts were selected for their TRPV1 antagonistic properties. The best extract was then studied for its effects on the above-mentioned parameters. This approach led to the identification of a plant extract capable of counteracting age-related changes in the scalp and hair.

Interactive matrix for anti-pollution skin care products

Pollutants differ in both their nature and their effect on the skin. Cosmetic products must therefore be formulated accordingly, and their effectiveness must be proven. The Anti-Pollution Working Group of the German Society for Scientific and Applied Cosmetics (DGK) has developed a publicly accessible interactive matrix containing information on air pollutants, some of their effects on the skin, cosmetic ingredients and application methods, as well as relevant methods for assessing efficacy. The matrix does not claim to be exhaustive, but it does provide a better understanding of the factors involved. It also shows how the challenges of proving a product's promise can be overcome when developing relevant skin care products.

Skinobs - Summary of the survey on the global market of clinical tests of cosmetic products

Skinobs publishes the summary of a ground-breaking market study of clinical tests for the beauty industry

During the first half of 2022, Skinobs carried out an international study on the market for clinical tests for the beauty industry, and has published a summary of the results. The study concerns the development of skin, hair, scalp and nail care products. It covers efficacy, safety and tolerance measurements, consumer testing and sensory analysis. A summary of the study is available online.

Two approaches, one involving clinical test managers at manufacturers and brands, the other involving laboratories, have enabled us to draw up an original and unprecedented panorama of the testing business at the heart of a global beauty market worth 228 billion euros, which is particularly resilient and dynamic in Europe.

In 2021, skin care alone will account for 41% of sales, followed by hair care (22%) and make-up (16%). Perfumes and hygiene products account for 11 and 10% respectively.

The study outlines the trends and concerns of the players involved, indicates the key criteria used by clinical evaluation managers to select laboratories, geographically locates the key centers of test activity, with Europe in the lead, and segments the main players according to their age, size, etc.

A complete study and personalized support: The comprehensive 50-page study, illustrated with graphs, sheds light on the value of this market, both qualitatively and quantitatively. Skinobs offers insight and personalized recommendations for players wishing to deploy a coherent, sustainable development strategy for their products and services.

Changes in senior management herald a new era for Quadpack

Alexandra Chauvigné appointed CEO

Co-founder Tim Eaves retains his position as Chairman of the Board of Management and becomes Chief Impact Officer.

International beauty packaging manufacturer and supplier Quadpack is proud to announce that Alexandra Chauvigné has been appointed Managing Director, effective September 1, 2022. Alexandra Chauvigné succeeds co-founder Tim Eaves, who will retain his position as Chairman of Quadpack's Management Board. This decision is in line with good governance practice, with the separation of the roles of CEO and Chairman of the Management Board to improve transparency and accountability, and allows Tim Eaves to devote more time to social and environmental sustainability initiatives in the newly created position of Chief Impact Officer.

Alexandra Chauvigné brings over 25 years of leadership experience and a strong background in the packaging industry. She previously held the position of General Manager of Consumer Packaging, a business unit of DS Smith, a global supplier of sustainable paperboard solutions. Prior to this, she held various management positions at Aptar, a global leader in distribution packaging solutions. From 2018 to 2020, she held the position of Vice President and General Manager of the skin care and color cosmetics business unit, and from 2011 to 2017 that of President of Global Market Development for the beauty sector. Throughout her career, she has fervently focused on profitable business growth, the commercialization of innovative solutions and the development of strong relationships with customers and partners.

Alexandra Chauvigné holds a master's degree in materials science and engineering from Insa, and has taken part in executive leadership programs at HEC, Mit and Insead.

She declared: " I'm extremely happy to be joining Quadpack and grateful for the trust placed in me by Tim and the Board of Management. We're having an exciting time working alongside motivated and talented teams with strong skills and solid values. I look forward to taking the company to the next level and continuing to generate a positive impact on our environment. "

Tim Eaves founded the company in 2003, when his Belcos business merged with Lenglart Packaging and Gadbrook Packaging. Quadpack has grown from a trading company to a multinational manufacturer serving the world's leading beauty brands. Under Tim Eaves' leadership, Quadpack has become one of Europe's top 5 packaging suppliers, with over 800 employees, 35,000 m2 of production facilities and two regional distribution hubs. Tim Eaves' focus on sustainable transformation led to the company achieving B Corp certification earlier this year, a gratifying achievement in the run-up to Quadpack's 20th anniversary.

He said: " I'm proud of the legacy I'm leaving Quadpack. I am also very grateful to Quadpack's employees, partners and investors for helping us get to where we are today. In my new role, I will be able to focus on ESG initiatives, strategy and governance and ensure continuity while supporting Alexandra as CEO. I know that she is an exceptionally talented manager, highly respected in our industry and, above all, one who shares our values. She's exactly the right person to take Quadpack forward. "

Firmenich strengthens its sustainability performance in fiscal 2022

Firmenich, the world's largest privately held fragrance and flavor company, today releases its annual Environment, Society and Governance (ESG) report, which tracks progress towards the Group's groundbreaking sustainability goals. Fiscal year 2022 saw strong sustainability performance across the Group's three key pillars of climate, nature and people, supported by a growing and leading independent assessment and strengthened ESG governance.

"I am proud that we continued to accelerate our leading ESG actions despite the challenging economic climate and that we continued to make measurable progress toward our 2025 goals, even exceeding them for renewable ingredients and living wage", said Gilbert Fantôme, CEO of Firmenich. "Our Firmenich Inclusive Capitalism business model is gaining momentum and is increasingly relevant in today's world. Every year, new climate extremes are having a growing impact around the world: Firmenich's bold environmental ambition is a vital business investment today and for the future. "

"Firmenich's ESG strategy continues to advance in our own operations and throughout our supply chain"said Thomas Androd, senior director of corporate sustainability.. "In addition, consumer demand for sustainable products is a structural growth trend in our industry and Firmenich's outstanding ESG credentials, combined with our leadership and innovation in natural and renewable ingredients, become even more relevant to our customers as they move forward with their own sustainability roadmaps. "

ESG Performance Highlights for FY 2022

  • Taking action on climate change: Firmenich was one of only two companies to receive a fourth consecutive CDP Triple A rating for climate, water and forests. Three manufacturing sites, in Norway, Singapore and South Africa, were carbon neutral in FY22, all operating without the use of offsets. Firmenich has maintained the decoupling of manufacturing growth from its CO2 emissions: during Ex22, Scope 1 and 2 emissions were reduced by 36.1 % compared to 2017, and new ingredient sites reduced Scope 1 and 2 emissions by 12.2 % compared to 2020. The Group maintained 100 % of renewable electricity in its operations, including new sites. acquisitions[1]. Firmenich aims to achieve carbon neutrality in its direct operations by 2025, an absolute reduction in carbon emissions by 2030 in line with limiting the temperature increase to 1.5°C, and net zero emissions by 2039 across its direct operations and value chain (Scopes 1, 2 and 3). Its net zero targets were validated by the Science-Based Targets initiative (SBTi) in August 2022, making Firmenich the first company in its sector to receive SBTi accreditation.
  • Embracing Nature: Building on the UEBT's validation of the Group's biodiversity strategy, work has begun on the restoration of 15 % of Firmenich's sites at risk to biodiversity, in line with Science-Based Targets for Nature. Implementation of verified access and benefit sharing (ABS) at 100 % was increased. Firmenich continued to increase the proportion of ultimately or partially biodegradable ingredients in its fragrances to 96.6 % on average, after exceeding its target of 95 % a year earlier. Firmenich strengthened green proteins in product development, enabling customers to accelerate the plant-based food revolution and contribute to climate change mitigation.
  • Caring about people: Building on gender pay equity and its work to strengthen inclusion, Firmenich achieved Living Wage certification by Fairwage Network in 2022 ahead of the Group's 2025 goal, a key milestone to ensure a decent standard of living for all employees and their families. The Group advanced its high global health and safety standards with an improved Total Recordable Case Rate (TRC) of 0.26 and a third consecutive Gold Award from the Royal Society for the Prevention of Accidents (RoSPA). Firmenich continued to maintain zero non-compliance with human rights and intensified its efforts to drive concerted business action by becoming the impact sponsor of the United Nations Global Compact (UNGC) for Labor and Decent Work.

Overall, Firmenich achieved an improved rating from Sustainalytics with a score of 7.5, in the global top 50 of approximately 15,000 companies, highlighting the Group's low ESG risk profile. A second consecutive Platinum rating by Ecovadis with an industry-leading score of 88 % placed Firmenich in the top 1 % of all companies assessed worldwide. The Group was also ranked for the first time as one of the "2022 World's Most Ethical Companies" by Ethisphere, a global leader in defining and promoting standards for ethical business practices.

Firmenich continued to work actively in alliances and partnerships, including the United Nations Global Compact, the Union for Ethical Biotrade (UEBT), One Planet Business for Biodiversity (OP2B) and the Science-Based Targets (SBTi) initiative, to drive positive change at scale and foster effective action on climate, nature and people in the business world.

Givaudan Active Beauty launches New Purple 2364, a vibrant and long-lasting vegan pigment for makeup

Givaudan Active Beauty unveils the power and performance of New Purple 2364, a vegan pigment for use in makeup formulations. Extracted by green fractionation from Raphanus Sativus L. This new pigment completes our collection of sustainable alternatives to synthetic pigments introduced in 2020 with the launch of New Red 1805. 

For centuries, purple has been valued in different cultures as a color representing elegance, consciousness and power. Named Pantone's Color of the Year 2022, purple has emerged as one of the hottest shades in makeup formulation and among those that work best with all skin tones. Our consumer research showed that 88 % consider New Purple 2364 to be a trendy shade, with 84 % of those surveyed believing the color goes well with their skin tone. 

" We are pleased to offer our customers a valuable and effective new ingredient for multi-functional use. New Purple 2364 is more than a vibrant pigment - it meets consumer values with 100% vegan and naturally sourced content. It is also ID Pack certified, a guarantee of transparent sourcing, product quality and good agricultural practices.  "Yohan Rolland, Category Manager Personal Care Beauté Active.

New Purple 2364 has been tested for performance and shows exceptional stability to temperature and light exposure when formulated at 10 %. Clinical evaluations on three different skin tones (African, Asian and Caucasian) also show impressive results when applied to lips, eyelids and nails. The color is bright, intense and even. Following the multi-functional trend, New Purple 2364 also offers anti-oxidation, anti-glycation and anti-hyaluronidase protection for skin and nails. 

The Active Beauty team has specially formulated an inspiring concept: Cosmic purple. This creamy eyeshadow is an invitation to discover visibly vibrant yet long-lasting makeup. 

With New Purple 2364, Omegablue and Cristalhyal e-Perfection, beauty lovers no longer have to choose between high-impact color, pigmentation, soothing and smoothing effects.

Faiveley Plast changes its name and
becomes FaiveleyTech

The Faiveley Plast Group is evolving through a new unifying identity. This change celebrates the 30th anniversary of the Faiveley family's first acquisition of a plastics company, and above all, 30 years of investment and development of a recognized international group with strong and complementary expertise. It also marks the transition to a new generation of family shareholders.
The Faiveley Plast Group has now become "FaiveleyTech, Manufacture for a sustainable future". It is asserting itself as a resource and expert entity for all its partners and customers in the Industry, Beauty and Health sectors.

Change your name to better evolve and reinvent yourself

Over the past thirty years, Faiveley Plast has acquired a large number of sites, tools and skills, making it an entity with a wide range of expertise and skills. " We wanted to mark this move upmarket, and express through our name our added value in terms of engineering and innovation in the fields of digital technology and eco-responsibility. Our new name, FaiveleyTech, brings together all of our brands, pooling our many skills and giving us new visibility with our customers and partners. "explains Nicolas Alloin, President of FaiveleyTech.
The change of name also marks the beginning of a new chapter for the Group, with a transition in its shareholder base and a new generation of the Faiveley family at the helm. This is the seventh generation to be involved in its management. FaiveleyTech is entering a new chapter and announcing a new ambition, both industrial and human.

A name chosen collectively thanks to everyone's involvement4

Over the past thirty years, Faiveley Plast has acquired a large number of sites, tools and skills, making it an entity with a wide range of expertise and skills. " We wanted to mark this move upmarket, and express through our name our added value in terms of engineering and innovation in the fields of digital technology and eco-responsibility. Our new name, FaiveleyTech, brings together all of our brands, pooling our many skills and giving us new visibility with our customers and partners. "explains Nicolas Alloin, President of FaiveleyTech.
The change of name also marks the beginning of a new chapter for the Group, with a transition in its shareholder base and a new generation of the Faiveley family at the helm. This is the seventh generation to be involved in its management. FaiveleyTech is entering a new chapter and announcing a new ambition, both industrial and human.

The new name was chosen by the teams of the group's companies, by the Executive Committee and by the historical shareholder family. At each site, a working group made up of employees from different departments considered possible names, voted on them and took a position. " One point was non-negotiable: we wanted to keep the Faiveley name, because our history and our specificity as a family business are important to us. This human family connection anchors us in a continuity and durability that make sense. "notes Nicolas Alloin.
The addition of "Tech" brings the "technology" aspect, but also a nod to the "French Tech", to position itself on the ambition of a reindustrialization of France. " We are convinced that France can and must reindustrialize. Our country has great development potential. Our part in this ambition is to broaden FaiveleyTech's know-how, to go beyond the processing of raw materials, and to move towards the development of complex products, using global approaches. "
The baseline "Manufacture d'avenir durable" is rooted in tradition as well as in a responsible future, in every respect. It marks a continuity between the past and the future. The word "manufacture" connotes historical know-how, involvement and application in the work. The notion of a sustainable future evokes current environmental considerations, as well as a desire to maintain jobs by maintaining and developing technical and innovative expertise. The blue white and red color codes are maintained. On the web, the group will display the banner of France through an address in ".fr" to position itself as a French company.

A new name and an evolution towards more fluidity in-house

In adopting the FaiveleyTech brand, the Group has decided to stop using the old names of the sites and companies it has integrated over the years. The sites will bear the name of the city in which they are located: FaiveleyTech Orgelet (ex-VPI), FaiveleyTech Annecy (ex-Eudica), FaiveleyTech Bourgoin (ex-Sepal), etc.
These new names are all opportunities to mark a strong territorial anchoring and an involvement in local life.
There is no longer any question of divisions, and this is the purpose of the change of name: a gathering under a single brand. The pooling of resources is being achieved through the creation of three Business Units, each covering the group's areas of expertise - Industry, Beauty and Health - and cross-functional services such as human resources, finance and purchasing.

"Our goal is for each Business Unit to benefit from the best practices of each other, to share and increase skills in all areas, for a collective evolution and emulation beneficial to all," explains Nicolas Alloin, President of FaiveleyTech.
The Industry, Beauty and Healthcare Business Units each have their own points of excellence:

  • Digital technologies and highly automated processes for industry,
  • Agility, creativity and virtuous materials for beauty,
  • Quality performance, traceability and control of health risks.
    " We put the points of excellence of each other at the service of the others. The fact that we are in three different fields is a real added value, because the problems and needs are transversal. The bridges between these sectors are opportunities to evolve and innovate. "underlines Nicolas Alloin.

Transversality and transparency: two keys to FaiveleyTech's evolution

For partners and client companies, the reorganization into Business Units will bring transparency to internal processes and increased international competitiveness. As each plant has its own expertise, customers' projects will benefit from the pooling of resources. Customers will be able to discuss their projects with a FaiveleyTech contact person, who will propose manufacturing at one or more sites with specific expertise, with an approach that is both
global and unified.

" In this new era of FaiveleyTech, we want each site to bring its own
contribution to the rise in competence of all. It's an increase in power
that unites all our teams around a single strategic vision. Our
employees want to take their place in a strong group, with ambitions and a sense of belonging.
with tangible resources. We also rely heavily on teamwork and
synergies: it's a choice we made a long time ago, but we're going to
We want to expand and accelerate the process to make everyone want to get involved. We want to
create added value for our customers, but also and above all create pride for our employees.
teams.
"

Since January 2022, FaiveleyTech's development has also been supported by a BPI gas pedal. This support is scheduled to last 18 months. It will support a shared approach to project management, enabling plants to enhance their skills. The first areas to be addressed are the foundations of a multi-business unit organization, support services for operations and innovation.
The transition to FaiveleyTech is more than just a name change. It is the result of a new vision for the Group, which aims to make sense for both its employees and its customers. With this change, FaiveleyTech aims to build loyalty among its employees, facilitate their skills development and also attract new talent, a major challenge for industrial companies today.

Deciphering a new brand signature

FaiveleyTech is a single word, for one entity. Its upper/lower case spelling enhances legibility, in a guideline of humility. The choice of the word "Manufacture" as a baseline reflects this spirit of simplicity, anchoring in the past and paying tribute to the involvement and application of all the Group's players, at all levels. Keeping the name "Faiveley" was also a prerequisite. The "i", with its
connection between the bar and the point, symbolizes the injection point of a plastic part,
core business of the ETI. The addition of "Tech" marks the importance of technology and
technology, and positions the group in a claimed industrial framework. "Tech"
connotes innovation and the future, and more precisely an optimistic and eco-responsible future, as the rest of the baseline states through the expression "sustainable future". The idea of looking to the future is also symbolized by the italics, like a dynamic momentum. Finally, the color code blue white red underlines FaiveleyTech's pride and ambition to make France shine, nationally and internationally.

Get to know the FaiveleyTech Group better

FaiveleyTech is an international group of French origin, specializing in high value-added plastic injection molding for the demanding, selective and/or normative markets of Industry, Beauty and Health. It is headed by Executive Chairman Nicolas Alloin and the Faiveley family, which is a shareholder in Faiveley Transport-Wabtec, the world leader in rail equipment, and has also owned Domaine Faiveley since 1825.
(Nuit-Saint-Georges) producer of Burgundy wines.

Gattefossé & CTIBiotech develop the first connected chip to measure bioimpedance in 3D bioprinted skin

Sebum is a complex mixture of lipids secreted by sebocytes and deposited in the stratum corneum to contribute to the skin's barrier function. Disruption of sebum production is associated with skin conditions such as acne or atopic dermatitis, and also affects the appearance and beauty of the skin, contributing to the development of oily or dry skin.

Confirmation in vivoIn vitro testing of efficacy in healthy volunteers remains a critical stage, with a high failure or disappointment rate. This is why cosmetics laboratories continue to search for the most relevant biological markers, and to develop test methods that will enable them to assess the efficacy of their products. in vitro fast, easy to install, robust and.., in fine, as predictive as possible.

Gattefossé and CTIBiotech have joined forces to develop a 3D bio-printed model of the skin incorporating sebocytes, which can be used to measure the following parameters in vitro non-invasive measurement techniques in vivo and experimental laboratory data.

Bioimpedance (or bioelectrical impedance analysis) has long been used to monitor changes in our body fat mass, making it a personalized indicator for monitoring our health at home (bathroom scales). Using connected tools, Gattefossé and CTIBiotech have used bioimpedance to assess changes in the local environment of a 3D skin model incorporating sebocytes. Measuring such non-invasive electrical activity enabled real-time monitoring of sebum production, alongside laboratory analyses of the model's cellular, matrix and tissue development.

Bio-impedance has long been used in our bathroom scales and by dieticians to understand overall body composition. Applying this technique to the skin is an obvious step forward, but the real innovation lies in the development of real-time analysis of sebum changes. We have perfected our 3D-printed full-skin models with an integrated bio-impedance chip connected to monitor changes. By linking cosmetics screening in this way, we're making faster progress towards human testing and increasing our ability to make more effective products, explains Prof. Colin McGuckin, President and Scientific Director, CTIBiotech

Sebocyte-containing skin models have reproducible sebum production, which is increased by linoleic acid and decreased by Tofa. This is characterized by significant changes in bioimpedance both in the imprinted tissue and in the surrounding culture supernatants. Bioimpedance, linked to sebum production, is therefore proving to be a clean, non-invasive in vitro parameter that can be measured in real time, to design ever more predictive and effective tests: indeed, the 3D models described here and linked to a simple chip system, accurately reflect changes in both skin models and living donors.  "explains Dr. Nicolas Bechetoille, Ph.D/HDR - Head of R&D skin biology, Gattefossé

This work will be presented at the 32ème IFSCC Congress in London, September 19-22, 2022

The Pochet Group and the Fives Group announce a partnership for an electric furnace dedicated to the Luxury Bottle industry

The Pochet Group, a key partner of the luxury goods industry specializing in the manufacture of packaging for perfume, skincare and make-up, and Fives, an international industrial engineering group, are combining their expertise to reduce carbon emissions and offer greener glass production.


Pochet du Courval, the division of the Pochet Group, experts in the art of shaping glass for 400 years, aims to reduce its CO2 emissions by 50% by 2033 and to offer its customers decarbonated glass. The Guimerville plant, located in Normandy - France, is a veritable industrial flagship, manufacturing and decorating over a million glass bottles and jars every day for the most prestigious perfume and beauty brands.


Fives, a market leader in all-electric smelting technologies, will design and supply an electric furnace for the Guimerville plant. This advanced furnace design uses Prium E-Melt cold-vault melting technology, one of the most advanced available, to significantly reduce CO² emissions. The furnace is based on Fives' outstanding operational experience in electric melting.
This project, backed by the Pochet Group's private family shareholders, represents a major investment and requires major technological and human transformations.


" This electric furnace will be the very first French furnace dedicated to luxury bottles. It will enable us to drastically reduce our CO2 emissions by producing largely carbon-free glass for the perfume, skincare and make-up brands that will deliver the beauty of tomorrow. "says Benoit Marszalek, Pochet du Courval's Director of Operations.


" Fives is committed to providing innovative solutions based on our proven technology to electrify the glassmaking process. In this way, we are helping industrial partners to achieve their decarbonization objectives, as well as training technicians and operators at plant level. "says Alexandre Brusset, Glass Director at Fives.
By forming this strategic partnership, the two groups - Pochet and Fives - aim to make glass production more respectful of the environment.

TheBetterBarrel: Schwan Cosmetics and Sulapac create a cosmetic pencil with a plant-based barrel to offer the next alternative to conventional plastic

Schwan Cosmetics has launched the first cosmetic color pencils made with sustainable Sulapac materials. TheBetterBarrel" responds to market demand for environmentally-friendly make-up products that don't sacrifice quality, performance or style.
Schwan Cosmetics, a German supplier of make-up products to most of the world's leading cosmetics companies, and Finnish materials innovation start-up Sulapac have collaborated to create lip and eye pencils whose bodies are made from sustainable materials capable of retaining the volatile ingredients they contain.


To date, the main difficulty in using biobased materials in cosmetic pencils lies in the fact that most natural materials are not capable of holding the volatile ingredients of high-performance formulas. This is why, today, most make-up pencils are wrapped in virgin plastic.
The pencils were designed in response to market research into the changing demands of Generation Z and Millennial cosmetics consumers. According to the Deloitte Millennial survey, the importance of reconnecting with nature became evident during the COVID-19 pandemic. Consumers wanted to take care of nature and feel in touch with it. These consumers are also committed to making positive changes in their communities and the world.


Consumers will now be able to discover long-lasting, high-performance lip and eye pencils, packaged in innovative pencil barrels. The eco-friendly, hermetically sealed packaging containing the volatile ingredients is made from 72 % biobased materials, lateral wood chips and natural binders.
While sustainable materials have been implemented in beauty product packaging in recent years, this is the first time Sulapac's alternative plastic material has been used in colored cosmetic pencils.


This is a breakthrough for us, because we've been able to invent a better material for encapsulating our pencils. This replaces virgin plastic with a material that leaves no permanent microplastics on the planet!
And we didn't have to compromise on the quality or performance of our durable, highly pigmented shades. This line is designed to come in an infinite variety of textures and colors, and the drum material must be first-rate to preserve its integrity. Through our collaboration with Sulapac, we are not only creating an innovative product for our customers, we are also investing in a more sustainable future for the cosmetics industry. We will continue to strive to make the world a little better every day.
" says Dr Alexander Doll, Head of Research and Development at Schwan Cosmetics.


The eco-friendly barrel was created thanks to the joint expertise of Sulapac and Schwan Cosmetics in their respective sectors. The pencil cup is made from Sulapac Flow v1.8 material, derived from sawdust from industrial by-products and plant-based binders.
Both Schwan and Sulapac place sustainability at the forefront of their values. Schwan has set itself ambitious targets such as zero net carbon emissions by 2040, as well as a product range containing 50 % less virgin fossil plastic in primary packaging and 75 % less products of natural origin by 2025.

We have 700 customers in 70 different countries. As a global supplier to so many brands, creating more sustainable products has a significant impact on the environment in the real world. In response, our customers are increasingly demanding sustainable products, especially for their Generation Z and millennial consumers. At the same time, our customers don't want to lose selection, performance or the ability to design their products in line with their own brand. Our collaboration with Sulapac is perfect because they embody the values of preserving nature without sacrificing performance and design flexibility." says Sandra Lossau, Vice President Global Category Management at Schwan Cosmetics.
The design principle behind Sulapac is to imitate nature. Like a piece of wood on the forest floor, Sulapac materials can be digested by natural micro-organisms and decompose into carbon dioxide, water and biomass, leaving no trace behind. The company is also known for its aesthetics and performance, and has been creating sustainable materials for the beauty industry since 2016, collaborating with brands such as Chanel, Lumene and Shiseido.

It's a joint cooperation that wouldn't have been possible without each other's expertise - we're better together. Schwan is a major international supplier to a wide range of brands worldwide. As a major player in the industry, they have a real impact on the beauty ecosystem and the environment. Sulapac's mission is to work together to save the world from plastic waste. Collaboration with industry leaders like Schwan is very important because of the huge volume they produce." says Dr Suvi Haimi, CEO and co-founder of Sulapac.


The BetterBarrel product range will be officially launched at MakeUp New York on September 14 and 15.


The campaign includes :
Xplore Superstay Eyeliner Once applied, the precision-gliding eyeliner lasts up to 17 hours - for a perfect evening look that's still as fresh as the morning. The clean, vegan eyeliner features a highly pigmented, smudge- and water-resistant formula and applies smoothly.


Rebel21 Superstay Liplinen Clean, vegan lip liner perfectly highlights lips for up to 13 hours - for long days and wild nights. Its soft, glide-on formula is lightweight and won't fade. Thanks to its tip, the lip contour is perfectly defined and the color is intense.


Sulapac is a patented, award-winning biological alternative to conventional plastics. It accelerates a future free of plastic waste with sustainable materials that are beautiful and functional. Just like nature. The Helsinki-ba- sed company was founded in 2016 by Dr. Suvi Haimi, Dr. Laura Tirkkonen-Rajasalo and Dr. Antti Parssinen. Its investors include Chanel and Sky Ocean Ventures. Sulapac has been ranked among Europe's 100 hottest startups by Wired UK in 2018, 2019 and 2021, and among the Nordic startups to watch in 2021 by Sifted, supported by the Financial Times.

Our last issue

Listen to us!

Newsletter

en_USEnglish