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Beauty: the French want more transparency from brands

By
The editorial staff
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Klarna, a specialist in payment, shopping and banking services, has published a report confirming that French consumers are changing the way they consume beauty products, with well-being and the environment becoming the main purchasing drivers.

This new survey of French beauty consumers reveals that the French are looking for cosmetics that reflect their aspirations for a healthy lifestyle, as well as their environmental and ethical concerns. Brand transparency is a priority for 78 % of respondents, who feel that brands should be clearer about their sustainability credentials. More than three out of five consumers (64 %) read the packaging of the beauty products they buy more carefully. They also want to consume products that are more respectful of the environment and health. Of the 67 % consumers who use products with natural ingredients, half do so to reduce environmental problems.

"Today's definition of beauty is closely linked to the sense of well-being and health not only of the French, but also of consumers around the world, explains Eric Petitfils, Managing Director of Klarna in France. Today, French beauty product buyers expect products to be transparent, respectful of their health but also of the environment, paying more and more attention to the ingredients used and the labels obtained by brands."

Wellness

  • Health and well-being are at the heart of beauty product buyers' preoccupations. 71 % of French buyers prefer their well-being to their appearance: the main motivation for buying cosmetics is to please themselves (48 %) - particularly Generation X (50%) and baby-boomers (63%). Ultimately, one in five consumers buys a beauty product to feel better about themselves.
  • Beauty routines are being rethought... two out of five cosmetics buyers (36 %) say they spend more on skincare than make-up, a figure that increases with the age of the respondents (generation Z: 38 %, baby-boomers: 53 %). At the same time, three out of 10 beauty product users say they have prioritized skincare over make-up since the pandemic, and 20 % say their beauty routine has been simplified, with fewer steps.
  • ...while beauty accessories and tools gain in popularity. At the same time, more than one in two consumers (55 %) use skincare appliances as part of their beauty routine. The facial cleansing brush is the most popular tool among French shoppers (65 %), closely followed by jade rollers (39%), particularly among Generation Z (52 %) and Millennials (40 %).

Innovation

  • Personalization and innovation are key consumer expectations in France. Overall, beauty product buyers appreciate the innovative services offered by brands. Two out of five consumers (39%) would be interested in personalized skincare recommendations, as well as tailor-made products (23 %). Cosmetics shoppers are also interested in using smart mirrors (16 %) and augmented reality applications to try on make-up virtually (15 %).
  • Word-of-mouth and social networks are the main sources of inspiration for discovering new beauty trends. Most cosmetics buyers also say they are inclined to try new beauty trends through friends and acquaintances (38%). What's more, three out of ten people (30%) are encouraged to try out new beauty trends by discovering them on social networks (TikTok, Youtube, Instagram) - especially for younger generations (Gen Z 57 %, Millennials 41 %). 

CSR

  • Sustainable development is essential. Today's beauty buyers are looking for brands and products that reflect their values. Four out of five buyers (78 %) expect greater clarity from brands, and think they should be more transparent about their sustainability credentials. They also attach importance to the legibility of ingredients, and nearly two out of three (64 %) consult packaging more carefully when buying cosmetics, particularly to identify certifications and labels (58%).
  • Natural results and "clean beauty" at the top of consumer expectations. Seven out of ten respondents (67 %) say they use natural and organic products. Their main motivations are health (48 %), the reduction of environmental problems (47 %) and the absence of animal testing (45 %).

Full results are available here. 

L'Occitane and VPI sign their first eco-refill in recycled PP 100%

By
Kristel Milet
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 The L'Occitane en Provence brand has been committed to reducing the environmental footprint of its packaging since its inception, and wishes to fully integrate it into a circular economy approach. The increase of reusable or refillable solutions is at the heart of its strategy since its first eco-refill launched in 2008. 
Today, VPI, a French specialist in the injection of plastic parts for the luxury industry, is carrying out a new ambitious and innovative project for the brand: a new type of refill for one of its iconic products, the Utra Rich Shea Body Cream.

 New refill and new material 

Eco-responsibility is at the heart of L'Occitane's attention. Its strong commitment to CSR is reflected in its formulations and selection of ingredients, as well as in its packaging and accessories. The products are designed according to the principles of eco-design and the Ultra Rich Shea Body Cream refill uses several levers to minimize its environmental impact. 
Beyond the implementation of a refill, L'Occitane teams have chosen to use a PP 100 % PCR (post consumer recycled) material. They are thus working to revalorize fossil resources and to better integrate L'Occitane in the circular economy process. 

The PP 100 % PCR cup offers the benefits of preserving natural resources, supporting recycling channels and reducing the environmental footprint of the entire supply chain due to the inherent lightness of the material. 
The use of recycled PP 100 % and the creation of the cup are real technical advances for which VPI has demonstrated its commitment. The management of batches of recycled material, their traceability, the dimensional control of a 200 ml format, all within a tight development schedule, are the real feats achieved by VPI for L'Occitane. 

Reinventing the new gesture of an iconic product packaging 

The 200 ml Shea Butter Ultra Rich Body Cream refill represented a major technical challenge. L'Occitane called upon VPI's know-how to meet a double challenge, including the mastery of a new material and the implementation of a new process. 
The collaboration of the teams, involving a design study on the grip, for unclipping and reclipping, has enabled the invention of an intuitive and pleasant gesture. The cup, with a capacity of 200 ml, heat-sealed after filling, is sold alone, and is positioned in the aluminum packaging acquired at the time of the first purchase. 

"At VPI, we are honored to work with committed companies like L'Occitane en Provence. We thank the teams in place who, upstream, think about eco-design and who, in the development and industrialization of products, invest themselves so that the reflections lead to beautiful projects really eco-designed. We are proud to have been able to complete all the research carried out on recycled materials and to see such ambitious action plans come to fruition, said Marc Beltrami, VPI's Sales Director. 

"The Shea Butter Ultra Rich Body Cream refill solution allows us to significantly reduce our dependence on plastic compared to the old product, saving over 40 tons annually. It also meets our ambition to maximize our use of post-consumer recycled plastic. VPI's teams were able to meet this challenge perfectly". said David Bayard, R&D Packaging Director of L'Occitane en Provence. 

The Cosmetic Victories 2022: six finalists

By
The editorial staff
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Six finalists were chosen from among the 80 projects from 18 countries that applied for the 7ᵉ edition of "The Cosmetic Victories" international research and innovation competition. Retained by a selection committee of international scientific experts, the applications are carriers of an innovation or research work applicable to perfumery-cosmetics.

The two prizes (Academic Prize and Industrial Prize) will be awarded by a jury of reference in charge of distinguishing the winners among these six finalists. Each of the winners will receive a prize of 10,000 euros and will be supported by Cosmetic Valley.

Academic Category

  • Center de Recherches sur les macromolécules végétales - CNRS Grenoble (France) : Carbogel : A Simple and Eco-Friendly Carbohydrate-Based Gelling Agent for Oily Phase 
    The project focuses on the supramolecular gelation of organic liquids, such as oils, solvents or fatty esters, by monosaccharide derivatives that self-assemble into a 3D network. The "sweet" gelators are synthesized by an eco-friendly and efficient method (reaction in water). Gelling is performed by sonication, or by heating/cooling, or by dilution. The gel can be used as a stimuli-sensitive matrix for the controlled delivery of cosmetic agents. Carbogel contributes to "green" and sustainable cosmetics by limiting our environmental and social impact.
  • CNRS - Sorbonne University (France) : New biosurfactants for functional formulations with biopolymers
    The project aims to develop innovative stimuli-responsive formulations based on amphiphilic molecules of microbial origin (AM), biotensioactives, and biopolymers (BP). AMs are stimuli-responsive molecules produced by fermentation. They are 100% biosourced, biodegradable and biocompatible. Their multiple phases (micelles, fibers, vesicles...) form in diluted water at room temperature and can modify BP properties (elasticity, encapsulation-release, hydrogenation) by a simple change of pH, temperature and ionic strength.
  • Wageningen University and Research (Netherlands): Organic microalgal farming and milking for cosmetic ingredients
    Microalgae use carbon dioxide and nutrients to produce molecules of interest considered as sustainable resources. In this context, a unique cell-milking system will be developed to produce emulsifiers, gels, oils, fragrances and antioxidants from microalgae. The system will use low intensity electric fields coupled with eutectic solvents of natural origin.

Industrial category

  • Bioinspir (France) : New generation of sustainable fragrances with ecocatalysis
    Bioinspir is developing a new sustainable chemistry chain based on the use of ecocatalysts, catalysts of plant origin. Ecocatalysts allow the eco-responsible and bioinspired synthesis of a wide range of cosmetic and perfumery ingredients. Fragrances such as methyl dihydrojasmonate (Hedione) and linalool oxide have been synthesized in state-of-the-art green chemistry processes combining efficiency, speed, naturalness and eco-responsibility.
  • The SkinDNA Company Pty Ltd (Australia): SkinRNA Micro-cell Test
    A world first, this epigenetic diagnostic test is repeatable in patch and laboratory settings that quantifies the effectiveness of skin care through real-time gene expression activity. The device collects more than 15,000 genes, while its algorithms provide gene expression activity scores for skin functions, including collagen and elastin production and skin inflammation. After product intervention, a second test is performed to measure the new gene activity against the initial benchmarks. Consumers can then repeat the tests at regular intervals to track and monitor the genetic improvement of the skin without waiting for visible signs.
  • PolymerExpert (France) : EstoGel Green - Nature Inspired Polymer
    EstoGel Green is a rheology modifier for fatty phase with high suspensory capacity. Based on a supramolecular approach, it can produce transparent and shear sensitive oily gels with a soft and natural feel. 100 % bio-based, Cosmos-approved and globally approved, EstoGel Green is a unique thickener, according to the company. According to PolymerExpert, it combines performance, naturalness and sensoriality. This eco-designed and easy-to-use ingredient is a key ally in the development of a new generation of responsible cosmetic products.

The awards ceremony will be broadcast live on Cosmetic Valley's Youtube channel on Tuesday, March 22, 2022, at 4:15 pm.

Enzymatically recycled PET

By
The editorial staff
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Carbios announces that it has validated the 3ᵉ and final technical stage of the CE-PET research project, co-financed by Ademe (Agence de l'environnement et de la maîtrise de l'énergie), and for which Carbios is lead partner alongside its academic partner TWB. This breakthrough confirms the potential of Carbios' enzymatic recycling process, C-Zyme. This ground-breaking innovation makes it possible to produce, from any PET waste, including textiles, a wide variety of products of equivalent quality to those of petro-sourced origin.

Worldwide, almost 90 million tonnes of PET are produced every year, of which over 2/3 are used to manufacture fibres. However, only 13 % of textile waste is recycled to date, and mainly in downcycling, i.e. in lower-quality applications (such as padding, insulation or rags). By producing a pilot-scale white PET 100 % fiber enzymatically recycled from colored textile waste, Carbios aims to open up the circular economy to the textile industry. According to the company, C-Zyme is now on the verge of industrialization, and will soon enable leading brands to move closer to their sustainable development objectives.

Separate collection of textile waste soon to be mandatory in Europe

From January 1, 2025, separate collection of textile waste, already in place in some countries, will be made mandatory for all European Union member states (European Waste Directive 2018/851). The process developed by Carbios will thus be one of the solutions that will enable this waste to be recovered, making it part of a genuine circular economy model.

These technological validations were carried out as part of the CE-PET research project, co-funded by the French Environment and Energy Management Agency (Ademe). In particular, the project aims to develop Carbios' enzymatic PET recycling process for textile waste. The C-Zyme technology is complementary to thermomechanical recycling, and will make it possible to treat plastic and textile waste deposits that are currently not or poorly recovered. Carbios received €827,200 (€206,800 in subsidies and €620,400 in repayable advances) to validate this stage of the project.

The world's first PET biorecycling plant

Carbios has announced its collaboration with Indorama Ventures in the construction of a reference plant using Carbios' PET biorecycling technology at Indorama Ventures' production site in France (Longlaville, Meurthe-et-Moselle).

This unique biorecycling plant combines the science and technology of Carbios with the world-class manufacturing capabilities of Indorama Ventures. This collaboration will meet the growing needs of consumers and major consumer goods companies for more sustainable packaging, including Carbios' partners and shareholders (L'Oréal, Michelin, L'Occitane, Nestlé Waters, PepsiCo, Suntory Beverage & Food Europe).

The aim is to build and operate the world's first PET biorecycling plant in France. The plant will have an estimated processing capacity of around 50,000 tonnes of post-consumer PET waste per year, equivalent to 2 billion bottles or 2.5 billion trays.

The investment required for the project is estimated at 150 million euros for the Carbios technology, including an additional purification step, which has been integrated into the process. At the same time, an estimated 50 million euros will be invested in preparing the site infrastructure. The project is expected to create around 150 direct and indirect full-time jobs.

Paris Packaging Week: the winners of the Innovations Awards are announced

By
The editorial staff
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Organized as part of Paris Packaging Week, the annual Innovations Awards celebrate the best packaging innovations in fragrances, cosmetics, skincare, premium beverages, aerosols and dispensing systems. 

Since their inception, the Innovation Awards at each show have recognized the year's most outstanding packaging products on the European and international markets. 

They are awarded by three independent juries of packaging technical experts, professionals from the most influential brands on the market, and journalists representing the profession. All are looking for packaging that demonstrates real innovation and pushes the boundaries in terms of creativity, packaging technology and, increasingly, sustainability initiatives. The juries met at the end of 2021 to examine all the entries and score them according to the criteria for each category. 

The 2022 prize list in figures :

  • 180 entries in competition
  • 47 jury members
  • 58 award-winning products
  • 27 awards
  • 31 certificates

The Innovation Awards will be presented in person at three official ceremonies on June 29 and 30, 2022 at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, at the heart of Paris Packaging Week.

For the full list of winners :
www.parispackagingweek.com/fr/awards

Expanscience joins the B Corp Beauty Coalition

By
The editorial staff
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A company with a mission, and once again certified B Corp, Expanscience joins forces with 40 B Corp companies worldwide to improve social and environmental practices in the cosmetics industry.

A French, family-owned company, Expanscience has been committed to CSR for over 16 years. As a company with a mission, Expanscience structures its action around its raison d'être - "Helping individuals shape their well-being"- and is committed to making a voluntary contribution to the common good within the framework of the Pacte law. With its new CSR strategy impACT Expanscience has set ambitious targets to accelerate its transition to a positive-impact, regenerative company. As part of this, Expanscience is continuously developing its model and offering in dermocosmetics (Mustela and Babo Botanicals), the production of active cosmetics and rheumatology, and is developing cooperation with numerous players to co-construct more sustainable models.

Expanscience, once again B Corp certified

The international B Corp certification is one of the most demanding in the world. It distinguishes and helps to advance companies that integrate societal and environmental objectives into their activities and business model. To date, 4460 companies worldwide are B Corp certified. This certification covers five key areas of impact: governance, employees, the community, the environment and customers. The principle of interdependence aims to advance not only the company itself, but also its entire ecosystem (partners, suppliers, customers).

After being the 1st pharmaceutical and dermocosmetic laboratory in the world to be certified in 2018, Expanscience renews its certification and moves up 10 points. The assessment results show progress in many areas:

  • Measuring, reducing and defining a trajectory to contribute to global carbon neutrality by 2030,
  • Ecodesign of Mustela products and analysis of their life cycle,
  • Formulation and increase in the proportion of organic ingredients in Mustela products,
  • Certification of plant-based supply chains (Fair for Life), raw materials and cosmetics (Bio/EWG verified),
  • Social action for employees,
  • Ethics and transparency,
  • Joint actions with Expanscience communities and stakeholders to develop more sustainable offers and models.

As a member of the Convention des Entreprises pour le Climat, a signatory of Febea's Plastic Act and a partner in the Reset for Cosmetics program, Expanscience has joined the B Corp Beauty Coalition.

Transforming the cosmetics industry

Expanscience joins forces with nearly 40 B Corp companies in the beauty sector to found the B Corp Beauty Coalition.

The ambition of this international alliance of B Corp companies is to implement profound changes to improve the social and environmental footprint of the cosmetics industry. Its members are committed to taking action to improve the key issues facing the cosmetics industry. In particular: ingredient sourcing and sustainability, greener logistics, packaging responsibility.

Jean-Paul Berthomé, President of Laboratoires Expanscience, has been elected member of the B Corp Beauty Coalition board. This board is made up of 12 members from 12 companies of complementary size and activity, based in 8 different countries. In this capacity, Jean-Paul Berthomé will play a special role in representing the coalition and raising its profile within the cosmetics industry.

"With our Mustela and Babo Botanicals brands and our active cosmetics business, we want to contribute to the transformation of the cosmetics industry. The B Corp Beauty Coalition enables us to take concrete action alongside companies that share our convictions. Together, we want to embody a new approach to beauty and accelerate the sector's transition. This collective is essential to address major planetary challenges such as contributing to global carbon neutrality, combating the destruction of biodiversity and working towards zero waste".says Jean-Paul Berthomé.

Zozio and Actility join forces for tank monitoring

By
The editorial staff
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At a time when the French cosmetics market is booming, according to Febea with 23 % of global market share, Zozio, an Industry 4.0 start-up, and Abeeway, a market specialist in traceability devices, are teaming up to offer a tracking and tracing solution. 

This solution works for a variety of industrial assets, with a first successful project in the cosmetics industry, but not only that, as it is an agile solution that can be adjusted to all industries. Abeeway's expertise in outdoor geolocation systems, coupled with Zozio's flow management service, made this unique project a real success, according to both companies.

To compensate for a lack of visibility in the factory, Zozio offers a solution - a digital twin of industrial logistics - that supports operators in their daily work. It enables production processes to be visualized, understood, analyzed and optimized.   

According to Zozio, the benefits for customers are numerous: they can retrieve field data in real time, and control and optimize their logistics flows. The result is improved performance, reduced raw material losses, and more eco-responsible production thanks to fewer tanks.  

Looking for a reliable partner with expertise in outdoor geolocation, Zozio approached Abeeway, a subsidiary of Actility. Abeeway is a leader in IoT solutions based on LPWA (Low Power Wide Area) networks, and offers high-precision Track&Trace systems (to 10 meters) with the greatest autonomy, unique on the market.   

Abeeway's low-energy devices provide years of continuous use thanks to LoRaWAN connectivity. The devices operate both indoors and outdoors thanks to their multi-technology geolocation system, integrating GPS, Abeeway's patented low-power GPS, WiFi Sniffing, Bluetooth Low Energy and Bluetooth LE Beaconing for precise indoor tracking.  

Abeeway devices combine state-of-the-art localization technologies, robust hardware, meticulous selection of high-performance, low-power components and uncompromising software optimization. This enables flexible behavior, highly responsive to changing needs, and guarantees the location of goods and people in a variety of coverage scenarios.

Zozio has completed a successful deployment with Abeeway & Actility for one of France's leading luxury brands. The brand uses the integrated Zozio-Abeeway solution to track high-end perfume tanks on production sites. A similar use case has already been implemented for its customer L'Oréal, world leader in the beauty industry. L'Oréal's Cosmétique Active Production sites called on Zozio to optimize flows within and in transit between its Vichy and La Roche-Posay plants. 

Lao shampoos equip themselves with a Sorga passport to prove their commitment

By
Kristel Milet
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Lao shampoos will be equipped with unitary tamper-proof digital passports to provide verifiable proof of their commitment to each product. An innovation made possible by the French solution Sorga technologie.

When Lao shampoos claim to be natural, they now allow consumers to check the origin of raw materials, certifications and the entire history of the shampoo at any time and on every product, thanks to a Sorga digital passport easily readable by a QR code, unique to each product. Each of the brand's strong commitments is proven by original documents anchored in a low-energy public blockchain, which Sorga enables to be verified in real time, with no applications to download or personal data to provide. These tamper-proof, indelible proofs contain a marker to check whether the passport document conforms to the original in every respect.

"Making cosmetics more responsible is necessary, but it's no longer enough for today's customers: you have to be able to prove it to show that you're not greenwashing!" explains Lao shampoos founder Lisa Schino. "That's why our next products will be equipped with a unique Sorga passport where everything is easy to check, everything is secure."

Lao: a committed brand for the cosmetics of tomorrow

"By equipping a brand with returnable cosmetics, Sorga is once again demonstrating its ability to meet the needs of the new, committed players in tomorrow's cosmetics industry," emphasizes Philippe Guguen, President of MAP Emulsion, the publisher of the Sorga solution.

That's why Lao has decided to reduce its impact through the use of aluminum bottles, which are returnable. Aluminum is a light metal that protects against UV rays and is perfectly recyclable, with over 97% recycled in France.


More than just secure information, a unique link after purchase

With this innovation of SORGA passports unique to each product, the customer will not only be able to access proof of LAO's commitments, but also have access to live messaging with Lisa Schino, benefit from loyalty rewards, be invited by the brand, or even test new products.

"Sorga is the tool we needed to recreate the bond and trust with our customers," says Lisa Shino. "It's 100% French like us, it's designed for impact like us, it's very innovative, like us. So it was an obvious choice for us".
"When Lisa tells you about Guillaume and David, hemp growers in Alsace, or Samuel, her nettle and lemon balm grower, you understand that she's not bringing in cheap ingredients from the other side of the world, but that she's right on the mark," explains Philippe Guguen. "She makes an extra effort, for a more committed cosmetics that limits its impact. Sorga provides her with the means to explain this in a secure way on each product: transparency and traceability are clear and legible for everyone, easy to access".

Special Edition by Luxe Pack returns on May 31 and June 1, 2022

By
The editorial staff
-

Special Edition by Luxe Pack, the trade show dedicated to sustainable premium packaging, will be held on May 31 and 1er June 2022 at the Carreau du Temple in Paris, where nearly 70 exhibitors and over 2,000 visitors are expected.

Postponed to the end of August in 2021 due to the health context, the show will resume its cruising speed and will be held at the end of May-beginning of June, asserting its exclusive positioning: the only show in France that promotes packaging innovation in terms of sustainable development for all sectors of activity, from perfumery/cosmetics, to wines and spirits, via delicatessen, or fashion.

"Luxury brands, packaging manufacturers, members of our steering committee...All are unanimous: the integration of environmental issues is the key factor for the success of packaging innovations," explains Fabienne Germond, director of the show. "Driven by the necessity of the subject, Special Edition by Luxe Pack will present more and more sustainable packaging solutions and will bring an enlightened and sharp content to go further in the ecodesign of tomorrow's packaging."

This event will host more than 70 exhibitors selected for their know-how and expertise in the eco-design of sustainable packaging.

Among them, the leaders in the manufacture of luxury packaging, including new players, in order to guarantee visitors a range of packaging solutions designed with the environment in mind: lightweighting, refillability, "clean" finishing, natural materials, plant-based cushioning, etc.

The program includes a series of conferences entirely built with brands committed to sustainable development. It is based on didactic and interactive formats:

  • Plenary conferences in the morning with a panel of speakers including emblematic or rising brands but also associations and experts, who position themselves as true mentors, delivering the keys to meet the current challenges of the packaging industry in terms of sustainable development,
  • feedback from experience
  • new material pitches
  • an "Ask me anything" session: 45 minutes to freely ask questions to a fair packaging ambassador

A rich and instructive program will be added to animations, always with the same objective: to federate brands and manufacturers around a key issue of the profession, to debate around a priority theme, and to initiate a collaborative experience for the respect of the environment.

Read more

An analytical method for testing allergens

By
The editorial staff
-

In its Rouen laboratory, SGS, a world specialist in testing, inspection and certification, has been specializing in chemical, physicochemical and ecotoxicological analyses for several decades.

Since 2021, the company has been offering manufacturers and distributors of cosmetic products a unique analytical method for testing the 57 allergens defined in the SCCS 1459/11 opinion of June 2012, which is currently the subject of a draft European regulation, with a planned entry into force on 1 January 2011.er quarter 2022.

Adapted from Ifra (International Fragrance Association), this new method was developed using gas chromatography (GC) coupled to mass spectrometry (MS). Its reduced number of injections per sample saves time in data reprocessing. In addition to ingredients, the analyses are particularly focused on finished products because the presence of possible allergen precursors and the instability of certain formulas may generate allergens that were not predicted during the development phase.

After nickel allergy, fragrance allergy is the most common skin allergy. Fragrances are almost always present in cosmetic products, whether in the form of synthetic substances or of natural origin, such as essential oils. They can potentially trigger a contact allergy affecting the skin, usually the face, armpits and hands, or cause skin irritations in some individuals such as eczema*.

The SGS laboratory in Rouen, France, specializes in chemical, physicochemical and ecotoxicological analyses. It has more than 100 employees and processes about 50,000 samples per year, including cosmetics, detergents and hygiene products. It has state-of-the-art equipment including chromatographic and spectral techniques that allow it to search for chemical substances in trace amounts, as required by regulations.

To meet the needs of manufacturers and distributors of cosmetic products, relating to the 57 allergens defined in the SCCS notice 1459/11 of June 2012, SGS has developed a unique method of analysis. Adapted from the Ifra method, it was developed using gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (GC/MS). It allows to detect and quantify that the 57 fragrances, including some isomers, have a concentration lower than 0.001% in the non rinsed products and 0.01% in the rinsed products. Above these concentrations, allergens will have to be labelled to inform the consumer.

"In order to allow the analysis of finished products and complex matrices, we have adapted the Ifra method, initially developed for perfumery ingredients. We use two columns of different polarity and perform systematic matrix doping to guarantee the reliability of our results. Based on our experience, we recommend performing these analyses on finished products because of the possible interactions during the mixing of ingredients, the possible presence of allergen precursors and the instability of certain formulas over time. In this way, customers can guarantee the conformity of their products until their estimated end of life," says Audrey Guibet, strategic expert for Cosmetics & Hygiene, SGS France.

The consumer will be alerted to allergenic components in the list of ingredients labeled on the product (Inci list). The higher the concentration of an ingredient present, the more the ingredient in question will be in pole position in the Inci list.

"This analysis on finished products allows us to guarantee to manufacturers, distributors, and therefore consumers, a marketing of cosmetic products in compliance with current and future regulations.concludes Carine Dumas, Cosmetics & Hygiene Development Manager, SGS France.

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