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"From flower to fragrance": plant extraction processes revisited to restore nature's quintessence

Organized by the Innov'Alliance competitiveness cluster, "De la Fleur aux Parfums... et aux arômes" is positioned as the leading conference on know-how, creativity and innovation in perfumery.

Strong consumer demand and societal trends for environmentally-friendly products are forcing perfume manufacturers to constantly review their processes, in order to best restore the power of nature and its scents, with ever more eco-responsible extracts.

Responding to this major challenge requires them to modify their sometimes very old processes, with the major technological hurdle of moving to the industrial stage. Several examples will be presented at the "From flowers to perfumes... and aromas" conference.

Enfleurage, the ancestral method of extraction, had all but disappeared: too many tedious manipulations, production capacities too low, exorbitant costs, not to mention the use of animal fat in the process, now unthinkable. By combining an infusion in a neutral vegetable oil until saturation and a final stage using supercritical fluid to extract the essence of the E-OIL, this extract captures all the olfactory components of the flower in an unprecedented balance between top and base notes.

Firmenich has patented the Firgood technology, which uses only the water contained in the biomass cells. Once heated by electromagnetic vibration, the water transports the fragrance components, delivering the final pure extract.

As a pioneer in the field of distillation, Tournaire is continually developing a complete engineering package around molecular distillation to adapt to the specificities of each product (for example: for the treatment of citrus ≠ heavy products such as vetiver or patchouli // Scraper technology, ultra cold, ultra vacuum, recirculation distillation, etc.).

The fourth edition of "De la fleur aux parfums" (now "De la fleur aux parfums... et aux arômes") takes stock of the vast array of multi-disciplinary skills involved in creating a perfume composition and a food flavor. 

Experts and leaders from industry and academia will present a panorama of innovation based on this know-how, from nature, soils, plant physiology and agricultural practices, extraction processes, to the creation and development of fragrance compositions and food flavors involving neuroscience.

The conference will take place on November 16 in Grasse.

To download the program :
https://pole-innovalliance.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Flyer_Programme_FAP2021-4.pdf

Exsymol in the top 10 thanks to its scientific pore innovation

The poster presented by Exsymol at the latest IFSCC 2021 congress (which took place virtually from Cancun) was one of 10 selected by the jury (out of over 200 posters presented), for its high level of scientific expertise. The award was unveiled by Frédéric Leroy at the closing ceremony of the congress at the end of October. 

This selection was made possible thanks to the poster entitled " Visible facial pores: new insights for their assessment and tightening treatment "A new approach to pore expertise. 

This innovative approach has enabled us to demonstrate the key role played by the MAGP-1 glycoprotein in organizing the network of collagen and elastin fibers around the pore, playing a supportive architectural role. Exclusive biomechanical studies carried out in partnership with Biomeca, in Lyon, have uncovered new data, notably in understanding the mechanism of pore widening and sagging induced by aging. 

This IFSCC presentation reveals some of the work Exsymol has been carrying out in this area. It suggests that a new active ingredient based on Exsymol's signature silanols technology, with specific activity on the structures surrounding the pore, will soon be unveiled.  

[podcast] Cosmetic 360: innovation on the agenda 5/5

For our final episode devoted to innovation at Cosmetic 360 2021, we give the floor to Seprosys, winner of an award at the show, who talks to us about purification. Then Dachser, which is transforming itself into a logistics partner for the perfume and cosmetics industry in France and abroad. Then Mibelle biochemestry, who will talk about biomimicry and bioinspiration. Finally, Emuage is the world's first machine for making fresh, personalized cosmetics. Here's how it works.

L'Oréal and Symatese strengthen their biomaterials research partnership

L'Oréal and Symatese have announced the strengthening and expansion of their strategic partnership with the signing of new long-term research and development agreements in the field of biomaterials.

The two companies have been collaborating in the field of tissue and cell engineering for over 20 years. Episkin S.A., a subsidiary of the L'Oréal group, is today the world leader in the production of reconstructed human tissues, part of which is based on know-how developed historically with Symatese, a company renowned for the quality of its technological platforms for the extraction and transformation of biopolymers intended for multiple therapeutic indications. These reconstructed tissues have become a benchmark in biomedical research and a key tool for various industries as an alternative evaluation method to animal testing. L'Oréal and Symatese aim to continue combining their respective expertise to explore new scientific avenues in the field of biomaterials designed for human tissue physiology.

"Building on our long-standing collaboration with Symatese, we are delighted to embark on this new stage in our scientific partnership, which supports the exploration of new horizons of discovery and innovation to offer men and women around the world even greater performance in our beauty offering and in the care of their skin. This collaboration will benefit from Symatese's cutting-edge expertise in the field of biomaterials, expertise now recognized internationally by the quality of products marketed in the therapeutic field".says Barbara Lavernos, Executive Vice President, Research, Innovation and Technology at L'Oréal.

Jean-Paul Gérardin, Managing Director of Symatese, said: "We are very pleased to have established this new partnership with L'Oréal, whose extensive expertise in skin physiology, clinical performance markers and alternative assessment methods perfectly complements our know-how in the design and industrialization of biomaterials. We therefore look forward to great scientific advances and innovative products for our patients."

[podcast] Cosmetic 360: innovation on the agenda 4/5

The penultimate episode in our series, and the innovation continues! First, you'll hear from Solabia, part of the upcycling trend linked to coffee, then Microfactory, which presents new equipment to speed up foundation wear tests, for example. Scentys will then talk about its VOC-free perfume diffuser. Finally, Plant Advanced Technology will talk about plants and their roots...

Quadpack's Governance Committee strengthens

The introduction of independent members to the Governance Committee and the creation of new committees contribute to the company's diversity, transparency and accountability.

Quadpack's Governance Committee has been strengthened with the appointment of its first independent members. Three new committees have also been created, focusing on sustainability, audit and risk, and remuneration and appointments. These changes were ratified at the Annual General Meeting of Shareholders, held on July 13, 2021 at Quadpack's Barcelona headquarters. Taken together, these measures boost the key principles of good management, including participation, transparency, fairness and inclusiveness, effectiveness and efficiency, and accountability.

Institutional investor expert Chrysoula Zervoudakis and diversity specialist Cheryl Hall have joined Quadpack's Board of Directors as independent members. Ms Zervoudakis brings financial experience with a strong focus on strategic development. Ms Hall is a certified climate change coach and professional mentor to international entrepreneurs at the Royal Academy of Engineers Fellowship, in connection with the UN's 17 Sustainable Development Goals.

As Quadpack strengthens the organization of its goal-oriented oversight and management culture, the appointments of Chrysoula Zervoudakis and Cheryl Hall enrich the diversity of the Board of Directors in a number of ways. Tim Eaves, Quadpack's CEO, Chairman and President of the Board, comments: "Chrysoula and Cheryl bring unique experience, fresh ideas and objectivity that will be invaluable to our growth. Their passion and enthusiasm for creating a sustainable business will help Quadpack make an even more positive impact on our planet and our society."

The three new committees have been set up to reinforce sustainable practices, ethical processes, accountability and transparency. The Sustainability Committee, headed by Cheryl Hall, ensures that the company's performance is built on a foundation of sustainable growth. The Audit and Risk Committee, headed by Chrysoula Zervoudakis, monitors the integrity of the financial reporting system and internal controls. The Remuneration and Appointments Committee, headed by Steven Lewis, Board Vice President of Quadpack, guides the Board on policies relating to the appointment and remuneration of directors and senior managers with strategic responsibilities.

[podcast] Cosmetic 360: innovation on the agenda 3/5

Third episode in this series dedicated to innovation at Cosmetic 360. You'll hear Rossow talk about cellulose to ensure the expected sensoriality. A large part is devoted to research with the CNRS and the presentation of the show's Tech Corner animation: the touchy finger, which makes touch measurement quantifiable. Finally, Lipoid will be talking about original ingredients...

Study: the best and worst cities for the skin

Founded in 2021 and based in Zurich, Switzerland, Covalo connects cosmetic brands with ingredient and packaging manufacturers, formulation and manufacturing service providers and various laboratories through a comprehensive search engine. 

The company also provides ingredient suppliers with a comprehensive real-time industrial data platform to effectively market their products. Covalo was founded in 2021 and is based in Zurich, Switzerland. 

Covalo has published a study assessing the impact of nine environmental factors on skin health, ranking the best and worst cities for the skin.

French cities are a long way from the top of the ranking. Paris came 26th: high humidity, poor air quality and pollution in particular cost it points. The second French city surveyed was Marseille, in 44th position overall. High stress levels due to traffic jams, poor air quality and the average annual UV index can damage your skin in the French port city.

Among our European neighbors, Munich, Madrid, Berlin and Milan score well, while London comes just ahead of Paris and Brussels ahead of Marseille. The three best large cities in the world for skin are Phoenix, Oslo and Montreal, just ahead of Munich.

At the bottom of the rankings, Mumbai is the worst city for the skin, notably because of traffic jams that stress the skin, and the combination of highly polluted air and high humidity that leads to a general decline in the skin's protective functions.

Some notable results:

  • Brisbane, Phoenix and Canton have the highest average temperatures, with ideal skin temperatures around 22°C.
     
  • Northern European cities such as Reykjavik, Helsinki, Oslo and Stockholm top the ranking thanks to their low UV indices.
     
  • Belfast is the best city in the ranking in terms of the number of sunny days per year, since the greater the number of sunny days, the greater the risk of skin disease.
     
  • Edinburgh scores top marks for air pollution: the Scottish city has the lowest levels of airborne particles, which have harmful effects on the skin.
     
  • Montreal has the lowest annual wind speed, which means that the wind here dries out the skin less than in all the other cities in the ranking.
  • Phoenix, New Delhi and Istanbul have the perfect humidity, with atmospheric water vapor concentrations between 30% and 50%.
     
  • On the contrary, Panama, Lima and Singapore have the worst humidity levels, increasing skin sensitivity and causing acne.
     
  • Phoenix and Montreal score highest in the Air category, which means that in these two North American cities, air quality is conducive to good skin health.
     
  • In terms of daily cigarette consumption per smoker, causing acne and skin-damaging stress, Valletta comes first, closely followed by Riyadh and Taipei.
     
  • Phoenix has the fewest hours spent in rush-hour traffic per driver, reducing the negative impact of stress on skin health.
     
  • Germany has the lowest average number of hours worked per week per person, which minimizes the effects of work-related stress on the skin.

The aim of this study is to find out which are the best and worst cities for the skin, by analyzing 80 of the world's most populous cities. The factors taken into account for this study are related to air quality, solar radiation and stress, and all have an impact on the skin. These include average annual temperatures, sunny days, average UV index, air quality, average wind speed, average air humidity, hours worked per person, time spent in traffic jams and average daily cigarette consumption.

[podcast] Cosmetic 360: innovation on the agenda 2/5

For the second episode of our 5-part series, we kick off our exploration of innovation with Le Rouge Français, pioneers of plant-based hair color. Then we open up with Oxiproteomics and Kamax Innovative System. We'll end on a gentle note with Lao's natural, anti-pollution shampoos.

Arcade Beauty appoints Carl Allain as President and CEO

Arcade Beauty has announced the appointment of Carl Allain as president and CEO. He previously served as senior vice president and general manager of Europe since 2016, and succeeds Peter Lennox, president and CEO since 2016. Peter Lennox remains on the Arcade Beauty board of directors as a strategic advisor. 

Carl Allain joined Arcade Beauty as Operations Director in 2011 and was promoted to Managing Director Europe in 2016. His knowledge of Arcade Beauty, global experience in managing international businesses and strong operational skills allow him to step into his new role and lead Arcade Beauty into its next phase of growth. He will continue to develop the strategy based on Arcade Beauty's three pillars of sampling, sales products and digital, while supporting the company's commitment to sustainability. 

 "Since 2016, I have had the privilege of leading our European subsidiary, I am very proud of my team and all the employees in Europe, what we have achieved together and I would like to thank them for their support and success. I am extremely honored to now lead the entire group. Arcade Beauty has a strong foundation of teamwork, innovation and trusted relationships with its customers. I look forward to meeting with our customers to support their future growth," said Carl Allain. 

Peter Lennox will remain on the Arcade Beauty board to provide strategic support to Oaktree Capital and Carl Allain. Since joining Arcade Beauty in 2016, Peter Lennox has led the company's transformation, including guiding the organization through the significant challenges posed by the Covid-19 pandemic. During his tenure, he has successfully launched Arcade Beauty's sales and digital product businesses, deployed operational excellence in its manufacturing facilities, and fostered team cohesion. 

"The past five years have been particularly rewarding personally and professionally. I remain confident that Arcade Beauty's three-pillar strategy of sampling, sales and digital, combined with our commitment to sustainability, will continue to be at the heart of our business. I am confident that Carl will continue to drive the Arcade Beauty business forward and I wish him and all the employees the best," he said. 

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