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[review] When cosmetics integrate hormonal variations

site-industries-cosmetiques A magazine with a photo of a woman in a bikini.

Cosmetics and hormonal variations. It's a subject that doesn't come up all that often, yet it's one that affects cosmetics consumers. Menstruation, pregnancy, menopause: hormones have an influence on skin quality. Cosmetics manufacturers are beginning to incorporate this into their products. This is the Zoom of June issue of Industries Cosmétiques.

And to fully grasp what's at stake in this article, we asked journalist Kristel Milet to explain how she went about it. Listen to the podcast Cosmetalks and to read with your review n°30.

Cannabis and cannabinoids technical day: feedback and call for ideas

site-industries-cosmetiques A table displaying a bottle of cbd oil and a cbd plant at the Cannabis and Cannabinoids Technical Day.

More than 120 participants gathered on July 1, 2021 to attend the 2e technical day of the year, organized by the Innov'Alliance cluster and devoted to hemp and cannabinoids. At the Palais des papes in Avignon, a succession of experts and interprofessions discussed this highly topical, high-stakes subject.

Marion Pillot and Marion Segui, the cluster's project managers, opened the day's proceedings by outlining the main themes of the event. Frédéric Favrot, Managing Director of Koppert France, then pointed out that "the Innov'Alliance cluster had a duty to take the lead in this area.

A varied lecture series

Sponsored by Koppert France, Ledeven, Richel Group, Robertet Group, Vegetal Grox Development and our distribution partners ABC Chanvre and Cosmed, the day was organized around four main themes.

The morning session focused on "Varietal selection" and "Hemp and Cannabis production". The afternoon focused on "Extraction of molecules of interest and scientific rationalization of mechanisms of action" and "Application: challenges and development of innovative products".

A call for hemp project ideas

Echoing the enthusiasm generated by this technical day, Innov'Alliance is launching a call for project ideas around hemp, for which the cluster is inviting all interested parties to come forward before September 30, 2021.

The aim is to encourage the emergence of innovative projects based on hemp and cannabinoids across the entire value chain, from raw materials to finished products, in the agricultural, cosmetics, nutraceutical and food sectors. The aim is to encourage initiatives that promote sustainable innovation in the targeted sectors, and help develop a new range of ingredients, finished products, technologies and services in response to consumer expectations.

"Cannabidiol (CBD), hemp's flagship molecule, is gaining increasing interest among the French population for its many properties. Despite the legislative grey areas that remain in this sector, the development of cosmetics, food, nutraceuticals and wellness products containing CBD or its derivatives is today an area of innovation with high stakes (production, efficacy, analysis, quality monitoring, traceability, etc.)", says Innov'Alliance.

According to the Union des Industriels pour la valorisation des extraits de chanvre (UIVEC), the market for hemp extracts in France is estimated to be worth 700 million euros in the first year in the event of regulatory changes concerning CBD-containing products.

Find out more about the call for ideas :
https://pole-innovalliance.com/categorie-fr/actualites/projets/appel-a-idees-de-projets-autour-du-chanvre-faites-nous-part-de-vos-innovations

The theme of Innov'Alliance's next day of conferences is: "Food preservation & cosmetics: similarities and levers for improvement". Join us on September 30 in Lyon! Although the two sectors have neither the same challenges nor the same products, they are currently working in parallel to improve preservation, and could be a source of inspiration for each other. The objectives of this day will be to identify the various challenges and solutions for improving preservation, and to enable the transfer of technologies and skills between the food and cosmetics sectors.

Find out more about the next day of conferences:
https://pole-innovalliance.com/events/journee-conservation

VPI signs the connected spray cap for Paco Rabanne's Phantom perfume for men

site-industries-cosmetiques A chrome robot perfume bottle with black lid, designed by VPI for Paco Rabanne's Phantom men's fragrance.

In 2021, with Phantom, Paco Rabanne goes even further to seduce a highly connected generation, revealing a stunning bottle.

PHANTOM, the very first connected and refill perfume

A major partner to the perfume industry, VPI (Faiveley Plast Beauty) is renowned for its packaging expertise.
For its latest men's fragrance, Paco Rabanne worked closely with VPI. The French company, which specializes in the injection and assembly of aesthetic plastic parts, produced the brand's spray cap, the first connected fragrance to shake up conventional practices with a surreal robot design.

A challenge for a surprising creation

VPI takes the world by surprise with its ultra-fun connected spray cap, designed to create unprecedented customer experiences. The interaction between Paco Rabanne, VPI and STMicroelectronics in the development of this atypical fragrance has enabled us to achieve the level of precision and perfection set by the brand.
This spray cap combines an attractive metallic finish with the integration of an NFC (contactless communication) microchip in the robot head, all in a 3-piece footprint for the 100ml and 150ml bottle caps. 

For addicts, Phantom's 150 ml format is both spectacular and refillable. "says the brand. VPI and PUIG have designed a refillable system with sensory unscrewing and reassembly, guaranteeing perfect solidity and product life.

By bringing your smartphone close to the top of the bottle, you can freely discover the whole Phantom universe (games, playlists...) A welcome spray in the "Paco Galaxy" that becomes your everyday companion.
With this emblematic, high-profile launch, VPI is breaking new ground with the very first integration of a microchip in a fragrance, for an even more creative digital dimension combined with refillability. 
VPI and the Faiveley Plast Group are fully pursuing their strategy of supporting brands in their ecological and digital transition.

Pure Trade manufactured the wooden box for the "Rouge d'Armani Matte" lipstick collection.

site-industries-cosmetiques Pure Trade made the lipstick set.

For 25 years, Pure Trade has been designing high-end packaging, luggage and accessories for prestigious international beauty and cosmetics brands.

The company materialized the creation of the Armani brand and proposed a complete solution for this collector's display box, complete with protective pouch and packaging, as well as a suitable carrying bag.

The box has received 12 coats of lacquer and is adorned with gold Armani letters, which seem to melt into the surface in a harmonious metallic sheen.

It contains a removable wedge for displaying lipstick tubes in the brand's 24 shades. A gilded metal clasp ensures locking.

This highly selective production has been the subject of precise technical development for a product destined for a second life as a dressing table with a diameter of 41 cm.

Cold stamping by Wauters

site-industries-cosmetics A man holds a book with cold stamping by Wauters.

"Goldsmiths of packaging"... since 1909, gilding has been at the heart of Wauters' history. Today, this signature is expressed through a new investment and new technical and innovative know-how, opening up new perspectives in packaging.

From gold leaf to industrial innovation

Originally, Charles Wauters set up a leather gilding workshop in the Marais district of Paris: bookbinding, book covers, leather desk blotters... Charles Wauters invented his own tools, developed Fixor (for gluing gold leaf, a product still marketed by Rougier & Plé), and developed equipment at the root of today's gilding profession.

An expert in gilding, Wauters transposes and sharpens its know-how from leather to cardboard, to collaborate today with the biggest names in Perfumery, Cosmetics and Spirits on high value-added packaging.

Year after year, the company equips itself with the most precise and specific technologies, such as cylinder hot stamping combined with an embossing unit, with a machine unique in the world developed in partnership with Steuer, which enables unparalleled precision on large hot stamping areas combined with an embossing unit.

As a natural extension of this, Wauters is now developing its cold stamping offer. Cutting-edge offset... for cold gilding

Last year, Eric and Thierry Wauters (4th generation of the company) decided to invest in a new offset press for the B.Pack site in Burgundy.

This year, the Villebon-sur-Yvette site will be equipped with Heidelberg's brand-new CX 104 press, unveiled exclusively at the China Print trade show. Wauters will be the first to benefit from this new-generation offset press, which is both more efficient and more ergonomic, with its unique, intuitive console that enables even larger printing formats with a sheet size of 720 x1040 mm.

At present, this equipment is complemented by Vinfoil's Optima cold stamping (or cold lamination) module. A new stage in the company's "gilding" know-how is developing in line with Wauters' exacting standards, and towards a technicality with multiple possibilities.

Cold marking, a simplified process

While cold stamping is not intended to replace hot stamping, it is an alternative and complementary process that offers three major advantages: performance, ecology and design.

The gilding is transferred directly to the offset press.

Unlike hot foil stamping, which requires the use of a gilding iron tool, cold foil stamping is transferred via an offset plate to the substrate using glue. No need for a tool, no need to set up the substrate on a new machine - everything happens in-line on the new offset.

Cold stamping enables reprinting on the gilding film. A juice, a gradient, a four-color process, a direct-tone decoration - the design is set free. There's no need for a covering white for texts or decorations: we work in reserve, directly on the cardboard.

The technical nature of cold stamping guarantees precision, agility, flexibility and cadence... 

High-quality rendering

Overlays are made easy thanks to 100th register quality: no need to set up the board on another machine, cold lamination is carried out directly on the offset machine. Precision is the order of the day. From solids to fine fades, gradations are sublimated thanks to unrivalled stitch finesse.

Gone are the days of covering white in several passes to regain purity; the cold foil reserve can be imagined as a solid, for example, to make way for four-color process printing on the back of a pack, or with incredible finesse for text, labels or gencodes.

A CSR process

The advantages of this technology include its ecological virtues: it saves time, materials and energy. Thanks to its highly precise application, the cold stamping process reduces waste. The used film reels are then taken back by the supplier who, after a demetallization process, recycles the PET by remetallizing it for a second life. The production of gilding tools is no longer necessary, saving both materials and energy.

Performance, ecology, design: cold stamping opens up new horizons for the world of high-end packaging.

Procos signs a 100 % single material e-commerce box

site-industries-cosmetiques A yellow box with a photo of sunglasses.

Procos, German manufacturer of packaging for leading luxury brands, unveils a "Summer" version of its Yoga Light box. The "Summer 2021" e-commerce box is made from 100 single-material %. It is inspired by the pantone color of the year, "illuminating yellow".

"Digital communication is becoming increasingly important. With this in mind, this packaging includes a QR code to our new website, giving you the opportunity to discover or rediscover Procos".explains Stéphanie Havard, Director of Operations at Procos.

Procos will present this revamped version at back-to-school trade shows. First at Édition Spéciale by Luxe Pack, on August 31 & September 1, 2021 at the Carreau du Temple in Paris (Stand B05), then at Luxe Pack Monaco on September 27, 28 & 29, 2021 (Stand DF01/DF03).

[podcast] Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie modernizes and diversifies

An investment of €20 million has enabled the Masnières site (59) to modernize and diversify. New furnace, new hybrid line, new automatic equipment, everything pushes the glassmaker to go further, faster. Perfumery and cosmetics are still a major part of the plant, but spirits are making their entrance.

Explanations by Etienne Gruyez, CEO of Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie. Listen to the podcast below and read the interview in the magazine Industries Cosmétiques June 2021.

Givaudan acquires 25 % of the shares of b.kolormakeup & skincare

site-industries-cosmetiques A building with a green sign out front has been acquired by Givaudan.

Givaudan announces that it has acquired 25 % of the shares of b.kolormakeup & skincare, an innovative Italian company specializing in the end-to-end development and production of makeup and skincare products for customers in the consumer packaged goods and luxury sectors. By joining forces, Givaudan Perfumes & Beauty and b.kolor will leverage their respective capabilities to provide customers with creative and unique products and integrated solutions.

Founded in 2000, b.kolor is headquartered near Milan (Italy) and employs about 250 people. Its employees are recognized experts in the fields of industrial formulation design, focusing on innovation and sensory benefits combined with technical performance. They are involved in all phases of the creative process for make-up and skincare products, from idea generation and translation into cosmetic formulas, to innovative device design and final product manufacturing. They design approximately 250 new products each year, offering their clients ready-made products for consumers' favorite brands.

b.kolor will provide Givaudan with value-added solutions for its customers, enabling them to accelerate their own development process and bring new generations of make-up and skincare products to market faster. In return, b.kolor will benefit from access to Givaudan's ingredient palette and patented fragrance and beauty technologies.

Maurizio Volpi, President of Givaudan Perfumes and Beauty, states: "The establishment of this unique partnership with b.kolor through the acquisition of 25 % of its shares promises to be an exciting venture. It fits perfectly with our ambitions for 2025 to continue our expansion in the skincare and make-up fields. By sharing our creative and innovative capabilities, we will be able to generate additional value for our respective customers by presenting a complete offering combining high-level science, design excellence and end-to-end manufacturing. This will benefit all of our customers by increasing their speed to market with highly innovative end products."

Maria-Teresa Sancini, president of b.kolor, said: "We are delighted to begin this collaboration with Givaudan. It represents a great opportunity to grow our business. Givaudan's creative, ingredient and technological capabilities will greatly assist us in evolving our product offering and we will also benefit from Givaudan's customer base and geographic presence to access new territories. We are also excited to share our unique creative, design and production expertise with Givaudan to bring tomorrow's products to market."

The terms of the transaction are not publicly disclosed. Givaudan will finance the transaction from existing resources. According to the agreement, within three years, Givaudan has the option, but not the obligation, to acquire majority control of b.kolor.

Perfumes: an olfactory immersion

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman in a hat strolls through a field of flowers, immersing herself in a variety of fragrant scents.

StereOscent, Jacques Blanc Parfum's new technology, offers, according to the brand, a true olfactory immersion for each perfume, existing or to be created.

"Imagine a stroll along a beach in Corsica. On one side, the sea and its fresh scent of iodine spray, on the other, the maquis and its notes of thyme and immortelle. Until now, the perfumer had only a mono-olfactory process to reproduce the scent of this walk. His bottle imitated the 3D sensation incompletely, rather like the monophony of yesteryear compared with stereophony. Thanks to StereOscent, he can now reproduce the fragrance as close as possible to the scented experience that nature offers us, and in full accord with our olfactory capacities".says Jacques Blanc Parfum.

StereOscent uses the same neuro-biological techniques as stereophony for hearing and virtual reality for sight. The technology uses our two independent olfactory networks (two nostrils, two bulbs, two nerves) to fully engage the olfactory capacities of our nervous system and recreate the very nature of the sense of smell. 

"When a fragrance composed using StereOscent is compared to the same fragrance created using traditional methods, the result is clear: more volume, better definition of fragrant molecules and a feeling of natural immersion. This 3D principle brings greater depth and spatiality to the fragrance, allowing it to express all its notes, says Jacques Blanc Parfum.

With this new technology, which has been patented several times over, every fragrance can be created according to this principle of total immersion. An existing fragrance, such as Chanel N°5 for example, can be developed by the in-house perfumer with StereOscent to offer customers a new experience. 

Jacques Blanc Parfum is a French Young Innovative Company (JEI) founded by Jacques Blanc. The entrepreneur studied in Nice and then at the University of Sherbrooke in Canada. After gaining experience as a creative director in advertising agencies, then as a teacher of the human nervous system in London, he worked with leading brands in the French perfume industry. In 2014, he was named Chevalier de l'Ordre des Arts et Lettres. Since 2019, he has dedicated himself to the development of StereOscent technology. 

Quadpack establishes partnerships and expands in Asia

site-industries-cosmetiques A world map on a purple background.

Quadpack, the international manufacturer and supplier of packaging for beauty products, has appointed Korean packaging manufacturer LM as an "Official Quadpack Partner", to help accelerate its penetration of the Asian market. Following the agreement with Yuga in China announced in February, Quadpack is establishing partnerships under a new regional operating model, designed to help build the Quadpack brand, increase market share, improve local service and share its values with its stakeholders. 

Raj Savji, Managing Director - Asia Pacific at Quadpack, explains: "Asia's major packaging markets are measured in billions of euros. Korea alone is worth 1.1 billion euros. To conquer this region and achieve the objectives of our 2020-2025 sales strategy, we rely on our trusted partners. Bringing shared values, complementary strengths and established reputations, these key industry colleagues will extend our reach and enrich our service, enabling us to deliver solutions in the region and for the region."

A number of key attributes are required to qualify among the selection of partners considered for global network expansion. These include sustainable processes, category leadership, impeccable reputation, customer reach and added value in terms of manufacturing or access to new market segments. 

LM, based in Seoul, Korea, is a well-established packaging manufacturer with a strong presence in the dermatological skin care sector. It has first-class facilities to produce, assemble and decorate components for Quadpack's QLine portfolio of intelligent, modular solutions. Yuga, based near Shanghai, China, already manufactures selected components from the QLine range. Together with Quadpack's European plants, these partners will enable the company to strengthen its offering and meet the needs of the Asian market. 

As the partner network grows, Quadpack aims to expand its QLine portfolio with solutions designed for the local market with the help of its partners, and where possible with joint creations and collaborative innovations. 

Quadpack's presence in the Asia-Pacific region also includes an office in Tokyo, Japan, inaugurated a year ago. With a growing team, it builds relationships and fosters partnerships in this key Asian market. The Melbourne office is the oldest in the region. It serves Australia and New Zealand directly, and plans to establish local warehousing and manufacturing sites to accelerate time-to-market and reduce carbon footprint. 

This operating model based on formal partnerships will be considered for other regions to complement direct sales and service support. Historically speaking, however, growth through partnerships is nothing new for Quadpack. Rather, it's a return to our roots. 

"Collaboration is in our DNA,says Tim Eaves, CEO of Quadpack. Quadpack began life as a partnership of three companies in 2003: Belcos Packaging, Lenglart Packaging and Gadbrooke Packaging, each working with partners worldwide. In fact, LM Managing Director Michael Lim is one of my longest-standing contacts at Belcos, a relationship that dates back almost twenty years. I'm delighted to renew our friendship and welcome our new partner to the Quadpack family." 

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