Givaudan Active Beauty launches Mangixyl, a microbiome-friendly cosmetic ingredient targeting oily skin through sebum regulation. Created from mango leaves, this innovation meets Givaudan's corporate objective of "creating happier, healthier lives with a love of nature".

The mango leaves are obtained in collaboration with the Bendia association, based in the village of Koro, Burkina Faso, in the heart of West Africa. Run by volunteers, this women's initiative enables women to find employment by linking them with suitable jobs in the leaf harvesting process.

After harvesting, mango leaves undergo a green fractionation process to produce Mangixyl. This all-natural, microbiome-friendly active ingredient regulates sebum production (up to 15.9 % after one month depending on skin tone, says Givaudan Active Beauty) to relieve the discomfort caused by oily skin - a widespread concern among consumers worldwide. Double-blind, placebo-controlled tests on three different skin ethnicities (African, Asian and Caucasian) also showed a 49.5 % improvement in sebum quality. "Reflecting our commitment to inclusive beauty, Mangixyl is a universal, gender-neutral ingredient suitable for all age groups and skin tones."says Givaudan Active Beauty.

Fine Fragrances and Active Beauty Sourcing Manager Maxence Billas said: "Mangixyl is an excellent example of how we work closely with communities to source ingredients responsibly, with the utmost respect for people and the environment. This approach allows us not only to support these communities, but also to secure our supply chain and give our customers access to high-quality, responsibly sourced products, at a time when sustainability and traceability are at the heart of consumer concerns."

Active Beauty manager Laurent Bourdeau said: "The creation of Mangixyl shows how we combine a high level of scientific innovation with trending consumer insights to develop products that are not only good for people, but also for the planet. Our focus remains our guiding star as we continue to develop new sustainable products for our customers and their consumers."

Mangixyl joins Givaudan Active Beauty's growing portfolio of natural botanical actives, and is used in a marketing concept called S3D Womango. This light, mattifying day cream for all consumers also contains Bamboosilk A, Curbilene and CristalHyal. Thanks to its three levels of action, S3D Womango, according to Givaudan Active Beauty, immediately reduces shine, balances skin hydration and sebum production throughout the day, and reduces excess sebum over time without drying out.

EleVastin is a targeted solution to gravity-induced skin sagging. According to Gattefossé, the ingredient boosts skin elasticity and provides the support it needs to cope with this downward pressure. 

Renewal of the skin's elastic potential 

Gattefossé reports that EleVastin's efficacy has been demonstrated in models of increasing complexity. The active ingredient increases the synthesis of key proteins involved in the production and maintenance of functional elastic fibers: elastin, fibrillin-1 and fibulin-5. It also protects elastic fibers against degradation by elastases. Through this mechanism of action, it ensures an increase in elastic fiber density coupled with improved skin elasticity. This last result was obtained on an advanced spheroid model developed entirely in our cell culture laboratory. 

Combating the signs of gravity-induced ageing 

Tested at only 1 % and on 37 volunteers, the active ingredient demonstrated its ability to reduce sagging in the lower part of the face. Skin elasticity is significantly improved vs. placebo. Facial contours are better defined, and deep, vertical wrinkles are significantly reduced. An original measurement of the effects of gravity on facial morphology was carried out, confirming EleVastin's ability to limit the impact of gravity on the signs of aging.

A 100 % ingredient of natural origin 

Traditional plants used for therapeutic or culinary purposes are an unlimited source of inspiration for Gattefossé scientists. One such plant, Murraya koenigii, has been used for hundreds of years in Ayurvedic medicine and cooking. In association with its long-standing local partner, the leafy stems of the Murraya koenigii tree are harvested by hand in the preserved environment of Reunion Island, on plots managed without inputs (no fertilizers or pesticides). Traceability is guaranteed from the tree to the Gattefossé laboratories. A synergy of phytomolecules is obtained thanks to an innovative blend of plant-derived solvents and a rational extraction process. The active ingredient is Cosmos approved and has a natural origin content of 100 % according to ISO 16128.

"The phytochemical content of Murraya koenigii is both very rich and well described, enabling us to adopt a very methodical plant extraction research strategy. By adjusting solvent polarity, we were able to target more specifically certain molecular families such as flavonoids, phenolic acids and alkaloids. At the same time, in our laboratories and in partnership with experts in proteomics and biomechanics, we have developed innovative in vitro evaluation models. These have enabled us to provide a comprehensive demonstration of the ingredient's biological efficacy".explains Boris Vogelgesang, Cosmetic Active Ingredients R&D Director.

"EleVastin is the fruit of Gattefossé's latest advances in plant extraction and objectification. In our cell culture laboratory, our scientists develop in vitro models that are ever closer to real skin conditions. The reproducibility of results obtained with EleVastin on different models is a real guarantee of the ingredient's efficacy. What's more, EleVastin's excellent naturalness profile is the result of several years' work on developing solvents and finding the perfect match with plant material. We are very proud to supply the cosmetics market with this robust and 100 % natural active ingredient".reports Laurie Canel, Cosmetic Active Ingredients Product Manager.

Greentech launches an innovative new natural active ingredient based on the concept of chronobiology and a psychobiological approach. This ingredient helps reduce the impact of fatigue on skin and mood.

Modern lifestyles rhyme with fatigue

"Our new hectic lifestyles are disrupting our natural rhythm, leading to increasing fatigue in almost 45 % of the population, especially women. Circadian rhythms are our internal clock. Out of kilter, they will influence most biological processes, resulting in tired skin and impacting mood, says Greentech. Aware of these important repercussions, Greentech has created Circalys, an innovative active ingredient titrated in andrographolide, a molecule identified by Greentech R&D to counter the disruption of circadian rhythms and revitalize the skin. Inspired by Ayurveda, Circalys was developed from Green Chirette (Andrographis paniculata), a major detoxifying plant in traditional Ayurvedic medicine."

Modulator of circadian rhythms and the brain-skin axis

China and Cosmos approved, 100% of natural origin (ISO 16128), Circalys modulates the skin's biological rhythms, restoring a stimulating "young" clock gene expression profile in aged/fatigued keratinocytes and acting on circadian modulators involved in key cellular pathways. Circalys increases skin cell longevity and reduces cellular damage, revitalizing the skin. Circalys also acts as a modulator of the "brain-skin" axis, boosting the biological pathways of oxytocin, endocannabinoids and endorphins, for relaxed skin protected from the consequences of modern lifestyles.

According to Greentech, Circalys effectively reduces the impact of fatigue on skin and mood.

Clinically tested on night shift workers for 28 days, the company reports that Circalys was shown to significantly reduce visible signs of facial fatigue (puffiness, dark circles and under-eye wrinkles). Volunteers also found their skin more luminous, comfortable and rested.

Thanks to three scientifically-recognized psychological tests, Greentech has also proven that the use of Circalys in a cosmetic formula significantly modulates the impact of fatigue on mood: increased sense of well-being, reduced perceived stress and negative affect ("yoga" effect).

Exsymol shares its silicon expertise in a new video broadcast on its Exsymol TV video channel, in the "Word from the Expert" category.

Mélanie Mollet, communications manager, and Lionel Valenti, scientific expert, talk about this key skin element. Like collagen and hyaluronic acid, silicon acts as a veritable architect and conductor of the skin's functions. According to them, adding silicon to the skin restores its flexibility and resistance.