On March 18, 2021, UCO Bretagne Nord in Guingamp is organizing the 12th edition of U'Cosmetics, a student competition and professional symposium, on the theme of "Solid cosmetics: don't let innovation slip through your fingers."
Solid formats are back in our bathrooms. Current events and environmental issues have prompted us to reinvent solid cosmetics. With natural or synthetic compositions, these products are inspired by ancestral traditions.
The challenge of this theme is to take a fresh look at what already exists, playing with galenic formulations, raw materials and processes, while combining packaging that responds to current issues.
On Thursday, February 11, 2021, in Rennes, the pre-jury of the 12th edition of the U'Cosmetics competition took place, focusing on the theme of solid cosmetics. The members of the jury, made up of professionals and players in the cosmetics industry, met to elect, from among the 28 products in competition (13 participating schools), the 10 pre-selected projects that will compete on March 18, during the U'Cosmetics web TV.
Nicolas Gosse, editor-in-chief of Industries Cosmétiques, took part in the deliberations.
The teams were judged on different criteria such as creativity, sensoriality, functionality, knowledge of the subject and execution. The jury members were able to test the samples of the teams competing in the "Innovation Formulation" category.
Among the 10 finalist teams, the most innovative projects will be rewarded with four prizes:
- Formulation Innovation Award
- Innovative Concept Award
- Jury's Favourite Award
- Philippe Collas Special Prize: Internet users' favorite
Pre-selected projects:
In the "innovative concept" category:
ANAKO: Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers (Cnam) - Training in Chemistry of plant, natural and cosmetic active ingredients - Formulation Project led by Mériem Khalfaoui
"Anako is a brand of made-to-measure solid cosmetics inspired by beauty rituals straight from Asia: layering. To respond to new needs and current trends, the skincare routine is simplified and made up of six products: a make-up remover, a face cleanser, a moisturizing stick, a day facial and a night facial. Before purchasing a skincare product, customers are asked to complete an online diagnosis (available at http://anako.herokuapp.com), so that we can determine the corresponding skin needs and active ingredients for each customer".
COSMEON: École de Biologie Industrielle de Cergy (EBI) - 2nd year of engineering cycle Project led by Cheryl Sepho, Floriane Thierry, Marie-charline Turlais, Julie Venier and Shérine Zentou
"The hair removal market is growing fast. Numerous methods exist to deal with it, including depilatory cream. We've decided to redesign Epiléon, which stands out for its texture, composition and solid form. It will respect the values of our Cosméon company, and adapt to consumer expectations studied on the basis of a qualitative survey."
FREESIA: Université Catholique de l'Ouest Bretagne Nord de Guingamp - Master 1 Biotechnologies Product and Process Engineering - Cosmetics Professions Project led by Anaïs Samson
"Freesia is a plant-based cosmetic product for blemish-prone skin that can be used to replace an anti-acne beauty routine. Its packaging makes it a zero-waste product. The use of Bee-Wrap is still little-known in the cosmetics world, but is very popular in food packaging. This "packaging" is part of the up-cycling trend, just like the seeded paper label that allows melliferous flowers to grow".
LINCEA: University of Rennes 1 - Master 1 Biology-Management Project led by Mathilde Arlaud, Mélanie Brumont, Solène Roy, Zoé Santisteve and Aurore Touchard
"We came up with the concept of a depilatory cream in solid form. It is composed mainly of natural ingredients, is vegan and not tested on animals. It contains shea butter, linseed oil and turmeric. The latter two ingredients have anti-growth and protective properties against the photoaging effects of the sun. Our brand name Lincea Natural beauty therefore reflects the presence of flax and the desire for a healthy, natural product."
SYLOVA AUVERGNE: École Nationale Supérieure de Chimie de Mulhouse (ENSCMu) chemical engineering cycle Project led by Léonid Mnekin and Aurélien Quinart
"Originally from the Auvergne region of France, we decided to create a forest-themed beard care range. This range contains 3 products: a shaving soap, a beard shampoo and a beard balm. 99.2% of the ingredients come from suppliers in Auvergne, and 98 % are organically grown. We have tried to optimize the joint action of the various active ingredients, without limiting ourselves to those commonly used."
In the "formulation innovation" category:
BLINDBERRY: Université du Québec à Chicoutimi - DESS in cosmetology Project led by Delphine Duc and Clémence Guailliegue
"We've created two solid products.
Cleanshell: a single-dose cleanser for body and hair, with an encapsulated powder inside that enhances the sensorial aspect of the product when the consumer breaks the ball in the shower.
Nutrishell: a nutritive single-dose product for body and lips, with an encapsulated shea whipped cream inside, which also enhances the sensorial aspect of the product when the consumer breaks the ball in his hand."
CHERRY SURPRISE: Université Catholique de l'Ouest Bretagne Nord de Guingamp - Master 2 Biotechnologies Product and Process Engineering - Cosmetics Professions Project led by Marina Cau, Célia Duval and Maëva Seurin
"Cherry Surprise was conceived as a weekly treat.
Cherry: due to the shape of the product and the use of cherry co-products - cherry water, cherry oil and cherry pit powder.
Surprise: it's a 3-in-1 sensory and visual cosmetic care product. The outside of the product is a transparent soap that you lather in the palm of your hands, gently cleansing the face. After a few days' use, the consumer reaches the cherry pit (the surprise). When the product is rinsed off, it emulsifies on contact with water, making it easy to rinse off and giving it a milky effect".
DISSOLID: Université Catholique de l'Ouest Bretagne Nord de Guingamp - Master 1 Biotechnologies Product and Process Engineering - Cosmetics Professions Project led by Marine Bizouarn, Jeanne Leclair and Romane Morel
"After analyzing the nail polish remover market, we noticed that it was mainly represented by liquid products made from chemical solvents such as acetone. Faced with this observation, we came up with the idea of developing a solid remover composed of a solvent that is the most respectful of our skin and our environment."
L'HERBACOLOR: École supérieure de Chimie organique et minérale (Escom) - Chemical Engineer Project led by Laurène Bichon and Océane Feuger
"We've noticed that men are increasingly concerned about their image. These days, it's important to stay handsome, young and classy. What's more, beards are particularly fashionable at the moment. Men are attaching more and more importance to their beards, and taking the time to maintain them. That's why we decided to create a kit comprising one or more solid beard coloring products (depending on the color desired) and an after-coloring balm. The beard color not only evens out and corrects beard blemishes, but also brings out the beard's color and adds shine. The balm moisturizes and sets the color. Although we were keen to create a product for the male public, this coloring could, in time, also be used by women for small areas (hair roots, eyebrows, etc.)".
SOL'APAISE: École d'Ingénieurs de l'Université d'Angers (Polytech Angers) - M1 Cycle Ingénieur Génie Biologique et Santé Project led by Dorine Champagne, Elina Fournier and Maëla Pautric
"Sol'apaise is a solid after-sun care product with a minimalist, natural and French composition. Its action is based on two main ingredients: peppermint essential oil and Aquaxyl. Five other ingredients have been added (white beeswax, refined sweet almond oil, almond butter, Olivem 1000, vitamin E) to provide a solid form, preservation and good hydration. Use after a day in the sun, just after getting out of the shower. Rubbed onto still damp skin, it transforms into a cream, bringing refreshment, soothing and hydration to overheated skin."
On March 15, 2021, the 10 shortlisted teams will meet the jury.
The winners will be announced in the second half of Web TV on March 18, following the round-table discussion at the end of the day.
To take part in this "Solid Cosmetics" event:
→ Register now on our website in the "REGISTRATIONS" section: www.ucosmetics.fr.
