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Listen to us and discover our podcasts

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editocom
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Podcast - Graphic design

The magazine Industries Cosmétiques launches its series of podcasts dedicated to perfumery and cosmetics. Discover CosméTalks to meet market players. Do you prefer editorials? Every editorial of the magazine is read by its editor-in-chief. And coming soon, a new series of programs devoted to the contest adventure. Corpo 35.

www.industries-cosmetiques.fr/podcasts/

Turn up the volume!

The podcasts are available to listen to directly on our website and gradually as free downloads on the main podcast platforms (Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Deezer...).

Biotic Phocea laboratories launch a new organic anti-pollution range

By
Kristel Milet
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Lotion - Skin care

Founded by Doctor Tiziano in 1999, Laboratoires BIOTIC Phocea has established itself for over 20 years as the benchmark French and European manufacturer of sterile pigments for medical dermopigmentation and permanent make-up. Drawing on their medical expertise and R&D know-how, they have also specialized for over 10 years in the white-label manufacture of organic and natural cosmetics for SMEs and cosmetics brands.
Certified Qualité France and ISO 22716, the company has just obtained the Cosmos Organic label for all its products, guaranteeing 95 to 100 % of natural ingredients, 95% minimum of natural ingredients on all ingredients that can be organic (such as plants, beeswax, milk...) and 20% minimum of organic ingredients on the total product instead of the 10% previously required by the Cosmebio label, a guarantee of quality.

After the dermo-cosmetic range, it is now launching a new organic anti-pollution face range, resolutely trendy and urban, comprising 6 formulas (scrub, mask, eye contour, light cream, rich cream and serum), available in 2 fragrances to meet all the needs of the industry. This line, uniquely formulated with anti-pollution green and brown algae extracts, hydrating and anti-aging hyaluronic acid, organic aloe vera, organic shea butter and organic rose hip, creates an invisible shield on the skin, protecting it from pollution, regenerating and nourishing cells for a fresh, radiant, rested complexion.

Based in Marseille, in Provence, and with its own formulation and production center, Laboratoires Biotic Phocea guarantees 100% French manufacturing and total traceability of the entire production chain.
This family-run business on a human scale relies on innovation, certified organic formulations and impeccable responsiveness to make the difference. The company targets beauty centers, spas, aesthetic clinics, distributors and companies wishing to launch their own cosmetics brand, offering a full range of face and body care products: serums, masks, day creams, night creams, cleansing milk, etc., which can be produced in small quantities on the basis of "turnkey" formulations (from 100 units) or made-to-measure (from 1000 units). In all, the company has more than 60 different formulations, composed of at least 95% of natural ingredients, and certified organic, as well as made-to-measure formulas.

Able to create a cosmetics range in just 3 months for turnkey formulations, and in just 9 months for totally customized formulations, Biotic Phocea takes charge of every stage, from specifications to customized packaging, including regulatory aspects, packaging and product claims.
"With an R&D laboratory and a completely sterile room for the manufacture of pigments for the medical sector, it seemed important to us to be able to offer the profession the benefit of our medical know-how in terms of quality. We only offer organic or vegan formulations, as well as tailor-made formulations to all SMEs in the sector wishing to create their own brand", explains Sandie Tiziano- Schaer, Director of Laboratoires Biotic Phocea.
Backed by its reliability and know-how, the company has already won over many brands, thanks to the high percentage of organic ingredients in its formulas, averaging over 75%. The company is present in 56 countries on 5 continents.

Aqualgae, Lessonia's new range of ingredients

By
Kristel Milet
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Beauty - Cosmetic industry

 Lessonia has just launched a new range of ingredients called Aqualgae, algae waters designed to replace pure water in cosmetic formulations. A real opportunity for brands and laboratories wishing to increase their naturalness and organic rates.
Specialized in seaweed processing since its creation, Lessonia has succeeded in recovering the water that forms the basis of seaweed through an innovative process based on the evaporation and condensation of water vapor from fresh seaweed, harvested by hand on the coast of Brittany. A precious ingredient that is fully in line with the "upcycling" trend, and highly interesting for cosmetic formulation. 

Aqualgae waters are 99.1% natural and organic, with 100% derived from the constitution of the algae. Crystal-clear, they are a real boost to the naturalness and organic content of cosmetic products. What's more, these waters are odorless and colorless. All you have to do is dive into Aqualgae and choose between palmaria, laminaria or himanthalia water. proposed by Lessonia. 

16th edition of PCD, 14th edition of ADF and first edition of PLD on January 29 and 30, 2020 in Paris Porte de Versailles

By
Kristel Milet
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Cosmetic industry - perfume

The ADF&PCD and PLD Paris tradeshows are a must-attend event, bringing together a large number of buyers from the perfume and cosmetics sector, as well as from the pharmaceutical, food, wine & spirits and automotive industries, among others. This year's addition of PLD - Packaging of Premium & Luxury Drinks - will further enhance synergies and technology transfers between the three events.
The event offers a shared vision of the packaging sector, initiating a dialogue with all its representatives on many of the challenges, both newly emerging and long-standing, faced by multi-disciplinary brand teams. ADF&PCD and PLD Paris 2020 will serve as a forum for sharing ideas and innovations.
The exhibition area is also organized to enable cross-pollination between ADF&PCD and PLD exhibitors. Suppliers working in several vertical markets are located in a central avenue at the junction of the two exhibition spaces.
An exclusive gallery of Pentawards winners will also showcase the best projects awarded in 2019, from all horizons of the packaging world.

For the first time, the ADF&PCD and PLD Paris 2020 trade show benefits from a conference program developed in close collaboration with an official program committee, made up of leading industry figures. It includes experts from some of the biggest names in cosmetics, beverages and personal care, representing brands such as Beiersdorf, Coty, Diageo, Edrington, Interparfums, Kao, Unilever and many others.

New in 2020

■ 100 new exhibitors for 2020
■ Cocktail bar with mixology animation on the PLD Bar to experiment and compare the fragrances that create perfumes and spirits in this interactive workshop led by experts from Cinquième Sens, in association with the Fragrance Foundation France.
■ Perfumes & Spirits olfactory workshop - Bar PLD to discover this year's PLD signature cocktail, created by world-renowned mixologists.
■ The ADF&PDC and PLD art trail to find inspiration for future packaging within ADF&PDC and PLD thanks to works on display by creative artists from the Paris region.
■ Korean pavilion with leading suppliers and the latest K-Beauty innovations.

Other highlights include

  • The ADF&PCD Paris 2020 Awards: The highly anticipated and coveted annual awards celebrate the industry's best achievements in 2019.
  • Guided tours : Visits include a guided tour Made in Francewhich focuses on the best suppliers on the French market, and the Eco-Tour which will focus on leading products and suppliers of sustainable packaging solutions.
  • Innovation & Technology Theatre : The popular Innovation & Technology Theatre will feature new product presentations, launches and an overview of the latest technical developments in packaging, with themed sessions by product type to make it easier for visitors to find new products of interest.

Show growth in figures

  • Over 700 suppliers - 59% of exhibitors are international
  • Net exhibition space (m²) increased by 27% compared with 2019
  • The number of visitors is expected to increase by 20 % compared to the 2019 edition
  • Over 8,000 professionals to gather on January 29 and 30, 2020

 

Quadpack is now listed on Euronext Growth

By
Kristel Milet
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Beauty - Cosmetic industry
Quadpack, manufacturer and distributor of packaging for beauty products, has made its debut on Euronext Growth on the Paris stock exchange. Following Euronext's approval of its listing last October, the IPO price per share was set at €32.8, for a market capitalization of €138 million. These new resources will help finance the company's double-digit growth, averaging 20% over the past five years.
Quadpack was first listed on Euronext Access (then Marché Libre) on April 21, 2016 at €8.43 per share. Today, their value has quadrupled. It has to be said that, in the meantime, Quadpack has more than doubled its business volume, from €55 million at the end of 2015 to €130 million in fiscal 2019.
Quadpack's development strategy combines organic and external growth. Since 2013, a number of companies have been acquired, enabling it to open up new market prospects and diversify its offering. The most recent acquisitions concern the German packaging manufacturer Louvrette and the exclusive marketing rights to the bi-injection blow-molding technology developed by the German technology company Inotech. These two operations reinforce Quadpack's leading position in terms of manufacturing and innovation in the cosmetics packaging sector. The agreement with Inotech also provides for the takeover of Quadpack's cosmetics business and the creation of a research and development partnership to further develop the acquired technology.
Quadpack CEO and co-founder Tim Eaves commented: "Our growth is the result of successful organic and external development, based on sustainability. Euronext's stock market model will enable us to learn, and raise finance, progressively in an increasingly regulated environment. Our listing on Euronext Growth will enable us to explore new opportunities and pursue our development, always with respect for people, planet and profits.
With a public listing as a potential next step in its evolution, Quadpack will pursue its growth strategy, which has already earned it a position among the top 10 suppliers of beauty packaging in Europe.

Beautigloo, the first refrigerated beauty box is now available for pre-order

By
Kristel Milet
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Refrigerator - Beauty

After two years of research and development, the French start-up Beautigloo is ready to revolutionize the daily life of skincare addicts!
Developed with the support of a dermatologist, the Refrigerated Beauty Box preserves the properties of cosmetics and boosts their effectiveness, while being environmentally friendly.

A beauty innovation designed for consumers seeking efficiency and well-being.

According to Kantar Media, more than 20% of women in Europe put their cosmetics in the refrigerator, for lack of adapted solutions. An impractical and unhygienic solution, rarely at the right temperature.
With its innovation, Beautigloo offers a suitable environment for cosmetics. Its optimal temperature of 10°C, regulated by thermostat, protects the cosmetics by providing freshness and performance. Thanks to its ventilated cooling, the presence of humidity is limited. Creams, eye care products, masks, nail polish, perfumes, natural ingredients... all benefit from being stored in the Refrigerated Beauty Box.

A design and durable beauty device

It is an efficient, practical and environmentally friendly beauty case.
"In addition to having a low energy consumption, our product is 98% recyclable and does not have any polluting refrigerant. As for its thermal system, it has been designed to last more than 20 years!" explains Florian Ménard, co-founder and technical director.

Unlike small refrigerators, the Refrigerated Beauty Box is 100% silent. Thanks to its patented system, it is totally inaudible (less than 20 decibels) and is also discreet at night thanks to its screen standby system. Placed in the bedroom or in the bathroom, it allows you to enjoy the best of your cosmetics in complete peace.

A refrigerated vanity 100% Made in France

Designed and manufactured in France, this quality product uses several cutting-edge technologies and meets the highest standards. By pre-ordering it now on www.beautigloo.com, the start-up guarantees an early delivery, starting in March 2020.

Co-founded by two young entrepreneurs, Clara Lizier and Florian Ménard, Beautigloo aims to preserve beauty through a range of innovative products that optimize the effectiveness of cosmetics. Supported by the Cosmetics Ecosystem, Beautigloo is part of the Sephora Europe Accelerate 2019 and has just joined the LVMH gas pedal at Station F. The startup is also supported by the Cosmetic Valley competitiveness cluster.

Arcancil Paris accelerates its international growth with SAP

By
Kristel Milet
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Permanent make-up - Mirabella

To accelerate its development and meet the growing demands of its international customers, Arcancil Paris turned to the ERP solution for SMEs, SAP Business One. Implementing SAP's solution has enabled the cosmetics brand to transform its business processes, make faster decisions and track orders from start to finish.

Build an information system to support growth and demand evolution

Arcancil Paris, a historic French cosmetics brand, has been designing and marketing cosmetics in France and abroad since 1935. Taken over 13 years ago by Anne Delleur Cabarrus, the company has pursued an internationalization strategy that today sees it present in 350 points of sale in France and 35 other countries. With sales of between 5 and 10 million euros, including 19% in digital sales, Arcancil Paris has successfully conquered France and the rest of the world, thanks to its expertise, ability to innovate and reinvent itself, notably through the construction of a new, more agile information system, capable of supporting growth and changing demand. This success enabled the company to join the prestigious "BPI Excellence" circle in 2014, in recognition of its performance and growth potential.

More than a Cloud ERP, a genuine business management tool

An audit, carried out with the support of BPI France and the consulting firm aXoma, helped define the selection criteria for the solution and the hosting provider, while taking into account the budgetary issues associated with an SME environment. Anne Delleur Cabarrus explains: "We turned to SAP Business One because the offering fully met our expectations in terms of traceability across all our markets, sales forecasting and added value. From a budgetary point of view, the possibility of hosting in the cloud was also decisive in our choice."

Carried out with partner Infoclip, the rollout began in 2016 on the purchasing and logistics sides, enabling the various suppliers and service providers, such as the central logistics hub, to upgrade to the ERP side. From January 2020, the company will integrate the accounting function into SAP Business One to cover all its entities, enabling even smoother operations and even more precise and rapid decision-making in terms of business management.

New business opportunities with SAP Business One

Thanks to the deployment, Arcancil Paris now has an instant view of its inventories, margins and cash flow. As a result, the company has been able to meet the various regulatory constraints of its international customers, and post a service rate of 95% on average, 10 points higher than the period prior to ERP implementation. "Thanks to SAP Business One, we can now work with major industry players. We are in the process of deploying with Monoprix in around a hundred points of sale, and today, our brand co-created with them is beyond reproach in terms of speed of execution. Alibaba and Amazon have also become important business partners, which would not have been possible before, says Anne Delleur Cabarrus.

The president of Arcancil Paris is finally setting out her ambitions for the future: "We want to capitalize on the successful launch of the Le Lab Végétal range in the green segment, and also find new international partners to roll out our brand over the long term."        
Arcancil Paris wants to make all SAP Business One functions standard, in order to increase profitability by changing processes, particularly in the French market.

Lessonia launches a range of cosmetic ingredients with hemp and CBD

By
Kristel Milet
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Cannabis médical - Cannabinoid

The year 2019 has been marked by the "hemp" trend and, in particular, the use of CBD in cosmetics. A vast topic that continues to create excitement among consumers and brands alike.
Following the launch of its "HEMP skincare" range in September 2019, Lessonia is expanding its range with "HEMP" cosmetic ingredients. From hemp to CBD, brands now have access to a catalog of natural and organic ingredients to formulate cosmetics that meet current trends while complying with European and American cosmetics regulations.

A range of THC-free ingredients complying with European and American cosmetics regulations

Cosmetic regulations differ depending on the origin and use of CBD. The CBD offered in Lessonia's range of ingredients is THC-free and extracted only from the stems of authorized varieties of cannabis sativa. The choices Lessonia has made enable it to comply with European and American cosmetics regulations.

A range of 6 ingredients, 100% natural, even organic on certain references 

Lessonia's "HEMP ingredients" range comprises 6 products. Between CBD and hemp, brands have only to shop around to develop relaxing products and surprise their consumers.
The CBD molecule is recognized for its anti-acne, sebostatic and non-comedogenic virtues. It reduces redness and soothes the skin. Lessonia's range includes :
 - Purified CBD 100% natural THC-free.
- CBD oil 100% natural and organic THC-free. 

To complete its offer, Lessonia has also developed 4 other hemp ingredients:
- Hemp watera hydrosol made from the stalks and leaves of French hemp that can be used to replace water in cosmetic formulations. This hemp water is 99.4% natural and organic.
- Hemp oil obtained by cold-pressing cannabis sativa seeds. This oil is 100% natural, organic and of French origin. Hemp oil is known to reduce sebum and erythema. It's a perfect ally for nourishing and moisturizing the skin, while soothing it.
- A natural exfoliant with hemp from the stalks. 100% natural, it is perfect for exfoliating the skin and is also available in brown. 

This new range of ingredients, presented for the first time at the Incosmetic and Cosmopack Asia trade shows, has already been very well received by brands, and encourages Lessonia to continue its innovation and development efforts while keeping up with cosmetics trends. 

L'Oréal rethinks the sustainable and flexible laboratories of the future in its Chevilly-Larue research center

By
Kristel Milet
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Laboratory - Research

L'Oréal is inaugurating the 6th laboratory building on its Research campus in Chevilly-Larue, entirely organized into flexible and collaborative laboratories at the cutting edge of the best sustainable construction standards. This building, dedicated to the face and body care, hygiene and fragrance research teams, houses 140 workstations on 4,600 m2. It completes a network of 8 research centers in France and 21 worldwide with 3,993 employees dedicated to research in 2018.

L'Oréal has developed its own flexible laboratory concept as it has set up its various research centers around the world: work spaces organized in trays, modular and multi-purpose workbenches, equipment mobility, and reorganization in less than an hour. In terms of tools, nomadic carousels put nearly 90 raw materials within easy reach around the weighing module, and video-conferencing equipment in the laboratories allows teams to interact live with their colleagues around the world. For Philippe TOUZAN, International Director of Project Portfolio and Open Innovation who led the project, "flexibility of the workspace has become a key element in the design of laboratories to foster the creativity of multidisciplinary teams in project mode."

From the outset of the project, bioclimatic design rules were adopted to promote energy savings and reduce heating and cooling costs, while preserving a pleasant living environment. The building's thermal performance has made significant progress: mineral wool for the facades, polystyrene for the roof and the buried parts, and low-emission double glazing with an argon blade ensure a highly insulating envelope. The glazed surfaces of the facade guarantee natural lighting which limits the use of artificial lighting. Finally, the outdoor planted spaces and the vegetated terraces are designed as living ecosystems that collect rainwater and host flora and fauna, which contributes to the fight against the loss of biodiversity in urban areas.

The site has obtained ISO 14001 certification for environmental management, ISO 45001 for occupational health and safety and ISO 50001 for energy management. In 2019, this new building is aiming for NF HQETM Construction Bâtiments Tertiaires certification, which distinguishes buildings whose environmental and energy impacts correspond to the best current practices and, in this case, reach the exceptional level. It is participating in the experimental process for the E+C- (Positive Energy, Carbon Reduction) label with ADEME, which recognizes buildings that are competitive in terms of energy and carbon.

Texen's "perfume" tassels

By
Kristel Milet
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Perfume - Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal Eau De Parfum

With its international sourcing and industrial network, Texen Beauty Partners competes with expertise in the very specific field of tassels. For Jean-Paul Gautier, for example, Texen's division is no stranger to success. Its latest success is a charming collection for the Le Beau et la Belle fragrances.
A charming accessory, both useful and futile, the ultimate added value of the bottle, the tassel has its place in packaging development. But it requires a healthy dose of creativity, rigorous development and nimble sourcing.
Composed of a pin and a decoration, the tassel provides the product with a dual function. Located between the push-button and the collar, it guarantees tamper-proofing and prevents opening during travel. In the case of Jean Paul Gaultier perfumes, it allows the bottle to avoid the cap.

To each his own tassel

Jean-Paul Gautier's perfumes have not finished charming us. From an anchor around the collar, to miniaturized zamak legs from Scandal à Paris, to the sourcing of delicately braided nylon rope, Texen Beauty Partners is multiplying its collaborations in this direction.

La Belle et le Beau

Texen Beauty Partners produced a number of different models for these two new fragrances. For Le Beau, the 50 and 100 ml formats feature a stainless steel and gold galvanized ring. La Belle's 30 ml format features a galvanized stainless steel ring with a Zamak flower motif.

 

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