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Beauty remains an essential for the French, even in times of inflation

Beauty

Criteo is the originator of AI-based technology for commerce, which has been enriched over the past 20 years by the continuous analysis of shopping behavior. 

His recent study " Global Health & Beauty Pulse 2025 The "Beauty" survey reveals that the French continue to make beauty products a priority, despite the pressure on their purchasing power. Some 80 % of respondents say they have maintained or increased their beauty spending over the past six months. Between April and May 2025, sales of beauty products in France increased by 15 % compared to the same period in 2024.

Loyalty: an ancient story? 

While only 27 % of those surveyed said they were loyal to their favorite beauty brand, French consumers are quite open to discovering new products, according to the study: 54 % of them have consumed products from a skincare brand they had never tried in the last 12 months - an upward trend compared to 2024 (52 %). This figure rises to 55 % for fragrances and 58 % for bath and body products.

A longer, more thoughtful buying process

The Criteo study highlights that beauty consumers in France are extremely strategic: 71 % of those interviewed compare prices on several sites, and one in two consults online reviews when in store. The research phase is becoming central, measurable and omnipresent.

Omnichannel becomes the norm in France

Criteo points out that its study reveals that for the French, the purchasing experience is built between the digital and physical worlds, with 52 % of consumers carrying out an online search before buying in-store. Half of French people (50 %) systematically make their purchases in-store. " In 2025, omnichannel is no longer a trend, but a standard that structures the entire value chain in the search for the best beauty deals".emphasize the authors of the study.

Values: generational disparities

Ecological and ethical criteria remain important in purchasing decisions, particularly for European consumers. However, their expression varies according to profile: Millennials value product composition, especially natural ingredients, while Gen Z attach more importance to recommendations from content creators.

Sisley's new soothing skin care product well protected thanks to Irresistible Airless by Aptar

Aptar-Beauty-Sisley-Irresistible

Sisley has chosen Irresistible Airless by Aptar Beauty for its new face care product for sensitive skin, formulated with 100 % ingredients of natural origin. The French brand selected this solution for its high-protection airless technology, reinforced by a patented barrier system preventing microbiological contamination. 

High-tech packaging

Irresistible is the airless solution offering the highest level of protection in the Aptar Beauty portfolio. It incorporates a patented barrier technology specifically designed for preservative-free formulas: the Preservative-Free System (PFS). The PFS combines sterilizing micro-filters in the pump with a hermetically sealed tip (Tip Seal system), preventing any microbiological retro-contamination of the formula.

The preservative-free formula of Peaux Sensibles Soin Apaisant by Sisley is protected in a hermetically sealed bag-in-bottle inside the bottle. Any contact with the metal of the pump is avoided. 

This multi-layer pouch reinforces the barrier properties of the PFS system against airborne bacteria and other external contaminants.

The Irresistible pump, with its POM-free motor, dispenses a constant dosage of 150 µl via a lockable push-button. An all-plastic version, made entirely from polyolefins and featuring a Pfas-free microfilter, is currently under development and will be available in early 2026.

Specific packaging

To make Sisley's expert formula completely preservative-free, Aptar Beauty called on the French P&B Group and its patented UHT (Ultra High Temperature) technology. This dynamic technological process of rapid heating followed by immediate cooling ensures the total destruction of micro-organisms. 

Exposure time and temperature are controlled and adapted to the type of formula and its viscosity, in order to preserve formula quality and properties. A dedicated vacuum filling line, operating in a sterile environment, has been developed to avoid any contamination during filling or assembly.

Irresistible by Aptar has validated the CVIT¹ and TSIT² microbiological approval protocols, which guarantee the absence of contamination before and after opening (PAO). Throughout its use, this packaging protects Sisley's preservative-free formula from internal microbial contamination, as well as from external aggressions such as contact with fingers or ambient air.

"Irresistible Airless is our solution best suited to consumer expectations for preservative-free products, guaranteeing their safety, quality and integrity. UHT technology is particularly relevant for high value-added products, such as Sisley's Soin Apaisant."says Florence Roullet, Laboratory Development & Quality Manager, Aptar Beauty.

Sisley's Peaux Sensibles 40 ml soothing skin care product is made in France and decorated with a sophisticated double-pass silk-screen print, in keeping with the brand's aesthetic universe. The product's shiny silver metal trim adds a premium touch.

¹ CVIT (Container Ventilation Integrity Test): tests the integrity of connections between different parts (moving, static, functional) to assess the risk of microbial contamination via ambient air.
² TSIT (Tip Seal Integrity Test): subjects the pump system to intense and repeated microbial contamination in a humid environment, simulating the risks of everyday use, including contact with users' fingers.

Amorim Top Series: eco-designed crown corks

Amorim Top Series

Amorim Top Series is a subsidiary of the Amorim Group, the world's leading cork manufacturer.

The company will be presenting its Sustainable Collection at Luxe Pack Monaco 2025, with the new FullCork (an all-cork solution), Re.Cork (an assembly containing up to 40 % of cork with a biobased or recycled polymer as binder) and Re.Wood (a composite based on wood fibers combined with 100 % biobased and recyclable polymers), which offer alternatives to standard crown corks, with a lower carbon footprint and extended life cycle.

Production capacity doubled

With the creation of two new industrial units, Biocape, dedicated to the processing of raw wood, and Elfverson, focused on the production of wood heads, the company confirms its strategy of vertical integration of its production chain, spread across the main markets of Portugal, France, the United States, Mexico and Scotland.

With a total surface area of 55,000 m2, the Elferson and Biocape sites enable Amorim Top Series to double its wood-head production capacity.

These two industrial units are equipped with cutting-edge technologies, including artificial intelligence and robotics, reinforcing Amorim Top Series' focus on modernization and productivity.

"The construction of the new Biocape and Elfverson units represents a key moment in Amorim Top Series' strategic development. It demonstrates both our commitment to strengthening our production capacities and our desire for vertical integration in the cork and wood industries".says Christophe Sauvaud, General Manager of Amorim Top Series France.

Packaging: Woola's recycled wool solutions at Luxe Pack Monaco

site-industries-cosmetiques Two white quilted envelopes made from recycled wool are presented against a purple background. The larger envelope, on the left, is written in French, while the smaller one features instructions and a recycling symbol.

Woola's recycled wool packaging solutions will be showcased at Luxe Pack Monaco on the stand of Enterprise Estonia, Estonia's economic development agency.

Based in Tallinn, Woola offers a sustainable alternative to single-use plastic packaging. The young company has developed an innovative industrial process for recovering wool waste and transforming it into packaging. According to the company, some 200,000 tonnes of wool are burned or buried every year in various European countries, as it is deemed unsuitable for the textile industry.

"Every challenge also creates an opportunity, and Woola embodies this philosophy perfectly. I'm delighted to take part in this event and help Woola introduce its fantastic products to a wider audience."says Viljar Lubi, Estonian ambassador to France.

Operating in France for three years, the startup has developed a range of packaging solutions in recycled wool: bottle sleeves, envelopes or wool foil, as well as a bespoke service to meet specific needs.

Woola points out that wool - which can be recycled or composted - has superior qualities to plastic, notably elasticity, waterproofing and resistance to temperature variations. 

Woola's packaging solutions have already won over a number of brands and companies in France, including Mademoiselle bio, Casa Zanoni, Cravan, Maison Matine, as well as two houses in the LVMH group.

Favoring a short supply chain, the company works with small breeders based in Estonia, from whom it buys directly wool deemed unsuitable, and has thus valorized 128,000 tons of wool.

Luxe Pack Monaco will take place from September 29 to September 1.er october 2025.

Packaging: brilliance and durability with Kurz slim technology

Kurz Slim

Leonhard Kurz sets new standards in surface finishing with patented technology slim. By reducing the substrate thickness from 12 µm to 10 µm for hot stamping, and down to 6 µm for cold transfer, this innovation offers concrete advantages to converters - technically, economically and ecologically.

Optimized processes for increased productivity

The optimized layer structure achieves a significantly higher gloss level, more precise release, and enhanced production efficiency. By reducing the number of roll changes, converters can streamline their operations and limit downtime. The technology slim improves the entire finishing process, both operationally and qualitatively.

Integrated sustainability

The technology slim also sets new standards in terms of sustainability. Compared with traditional substrates, the reduced use of PET means lower material consumption, less waste and lower processing costs - which translates into a significantly reduced carbon footprint, according to Kurz. With lighter rolls offering the same film length, users also benefit from easier handling and reduced transport emissions.

These advantages are part of Kurz's commitment to sustainability. The finishing process leaves no plastic film or laminate on the final product, thus preserving its recyclability. What's more, thanks to the Recosys 2.0 take-back and recycling system, the PET substrates used are recovered and recycled in an ecologically responsible way. 

"With slim technology, we offer our customers a solution that combines efficiency gains, superior finish quality and sustainable commitment in a single product. Our aim was to design a technology that would make life easier for converters, while preserving resources".says Stéphane Royère, Packaging & Print Division Manager, International Sales and Marketing.

A patented innovation designed for industrial use

The technology slim from Kurz is implemented in a new generation of products, such as KPS slim 2.0, KPW XU slim and Ecofin CWO slim - all protected by a European patent.

Lush celebrates 30 years of commitment 

Lush-30 years

Founded in 1995 in Poole, UK, in 2025 Lush marks three decades of cosmetic innovation and activism. The company, known for its fresh, handmade, vegan and non-animal-tested products, has established itself as a committed alternative to industrial beauty standards.

The result of the Cosmetics To Go adventure, the brand was created by six founders united by their passion for ethical, artisanal cosmetics. Lush has built its reputation on products with fresh ingredients - fruits, vegetables, essential oils - responsibly sourced, and manufacturing processes with low environmental impact.

Key products include solid shampoos, solid massage oils and bath bombs. Research teams are constantly rethinking formulas, giving rise to a host of innovations such as the use of aquafaba as an alternative to eggs, and the art of self-preservation for cosmetic products.

Lush also claims a minimalist approach: 47 % of its references are "naked", i.e. without packaging.

In addition to its products, the brand is also known for its activism. Since 2016, Lush has run 17 campaigns in French-speaking countries, focusing on wildlife protection, mental health, the fight against plastic and inclusivity.

Today, Lush is determined to pursue its mission: to prove that cosmetics can be effective, responsible and bring about social change.

Pharmarôme and Mane extend their exclusive partnership 

Mane

Pharmarôme, a recognized expert in pharmaceutical flavoring, and Mane, a French company in the fragrance industry, have announced the extension of their exclusive distribution agreement. Already in force in France, this strategic partnership now also covers the Italian market.

This strategic development aims to offer Italian pharmaceutical manufacturers easier access to highly specialized flavors, accompanied by dedicated regulatory and technical support.

This extension is part of the two companies' joint drive to strengthen their presence in Southern Europe's pharmaceutical market, offering a top-quality product range combining innovation, traceability and regulatory compliance. 

Combining Pharmarôme's technical expertise and Mane's aromatic excellence, the two partners offer pharmaceutical laboratories aromatic solutions that comply with the sector's strict regulatory requirements. 

"The extension of our partnership with Mane confirms the relevance of our model and our ability to support European pharmaceutical companies in their sensory formulation challenges".said Robin Chamorot, Chairman and CEO of Pharmarôme.

"This strengthened partnership is in line with our desire to provide a tailor-made response to the needs of the pharmaceutical sector, while promoting our aromatic expertise of excellence."added Renaud Milliard, Mane's Aromes & Pharma Distribution Director for Western Europe.

Photo from the Mane website.

Kat Burki: the science of collagen

Kat Burki

From October 2025, Kat Burki will be offering Amino Protein Mask, a protein mask with collagen and form-control amino acids.

This high-performance milky treatment has been formulated with intelligent amino acid-based rejuvenation technology. Designed to stimulate natural collagen production in three stages, it has been developed to restore the skin barrier: restoring firmness and elasticity while smoothing wrinkles and signs of skin fatigue.

Its formula combines a clinically proven complex of Tef Seed Extract, glutamic acid and L-Proline, enriched with smoothing plant collagens, to boost internal regeneration mechanisms and durably firm skin.

According to Kat Burki, results are achieved in three stages: anti-inflammatory therapy (rosehip oil, sea buckthorn, Hexapeptide-8: to soothe and prepare the skin to receive the active ingredients), activation of collagen communication (hydrolyzed soy proteins, rice amino acids, Adansonia Digitata seed extract and L-Proline: to stimulate collagen production and improve skin structure), collagen stimulation and skin barrier reinforcement (hydrolyzed Eragrostis Tef seed extract to strengthen and protect the skin over the long term).

The scent of vanilla...

Vaniille Caviar - BDK Parfums

Vanille Caviar is a fragrance "greedy, woody, matte".according to its designer, Alexandra Carlin, senior perfumer at IFF. The sixth creation in BDK Parfums' Matières collection, Vanille Caviar is a fragrance with vanilla processed to the extreme, elevated to the rank of a noble material. The creamy vanilla is black, dense and textured, yet with a hint of clarity. A raw, precious material, like plant caviar. 

Like a monochrome, the fragrance revolves around this single olfactory raw material, revealed in all its nuances by extract CO₂ and absolute. Cocoa and resinous materials - balsam of Peru and cistus labdanum - unfold all its richness and depth. At the heart, a caviar accord of vanilla with salty, mineral accents, as precious as it is singular. All around, subtle contrasts: the freshness of cardamom, the fruity brightness of blackcurrant, the warmth of cocoa beans.

"For Vanille Caviar I was inspired by a trip to Madagascar in 2017. I still remember that smell in the vanilla plantations. That of the pods, dark and shiny, almost liquorish, both powerful and deeply sensual. When I mentioned this memory to Alexandra Carlin, she immediately recalled her first trip to the red island in the Indian Ocean. Like me, she remembered the moment when the soft, fat, fleshy pod, just split open, reveals its precious black caviar-like seeds, with their gourmand, almost liquorish, deeply sensual scent. Vanille Caviar brings to life this memory of a lover of fine materials.says David Benedek, founder of BDK Parfums.

According to David Benedek, Vanille Caviar represents a completely different proposition from Vanille Leather, the perfume house's other creation, a more abstract, leathery interpretation. "Vanille Caviar is a carnal and literal approach to the pod, very natural, which can be both sweet and animalic," emphasizes the founder of BDK Parfums.

"In Vanille Caviar I wanted to explore the intimate flesh of vanilla, to plunge to the heart of its pod, when you open it and it oozes that shiny black nectar. A liquorish, amber and spicy addiction that left an indelible trace in my perfumery memory during my first trip to Madagascar. The squares of pods, lined up slightly apart, drying in the sun, create an alternation of matte and shiny blacks reminiscent of Soulages paintings. That's how I built this perfume, using layers of thick, dense materials, balms, resins, powders, and working its shiny, luminous caviar."explains Alexandra Carlin.

Debut biotech raises $20 million

Debut Biotechnology

Debut, a cosmetics biotechnology company, has raised $20 million. Its stated aim is to use artificial intelligence to make progress in the discovery of new-generation ingredients targeting the 14 distinctive signs of ageing.

"Debut strives to stay at the forefront of skincare innovation and bring cutting-edge biotechnology to all beauty brands through highly performing and differentiated ingredients. This funding will strengthen our ability to sift through over 50 billion ingredients to explore the 99.999 % of unknown molecules that can optimize skin health and make skin longevity a reality."said Joshua Britton, PhD, founder and CEO of Debut.

According to the company, the predictive capabilities of Debut's proprietary skin health datasets have recently surpassed those of publicly available datasets, achieving a data consistency of 99 % versus 85 % for public datasets. "This means we can predict better ingredients, faster, thanks to our state-of-the-art models in which we've been investing for several years. We're delighted to be embarking on the search for new chemical entities (NCEs), rather than settling for existing ingredients in nature, in order to pioneer innovation in skin health and support the growth of beauty brands." said Joshua Britton.

Debut's fund-raising comes at a time of heightened investor caution. The company is ready to penetrate the Asian market, driven by advanced formulations and high-performance skin care products. "AI, combined with an understanding of skin biology, makes it possible to create customized formulation solutions for different geographical areas, which was previously impossible."said the company's founder. Debut's expansion in Asia will begin in Singapore, where the company is due to partner with leading brands.

The latest round was backed by Fine Structure Ventures, EDBI, Wealthberry, Bold (L'Oréal's venture capital fund), GS Futures, Sandbox Industries and Material Impact, among others.

Image: © Mark Wall, Debut

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