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Danish group Matas chooses Superga Beauty's Paris full-service division 

Flora Danica - Superga Beauty

As an industrial partner to its brands, Superga Beauty boasts full-service expertise, with a 360° offer ranging from development to the supply chain. Called upon by the Danish Matas group for its new range of eaux de parfum, the company masters all stages of production, from design to manufacture and filling.

The juice for Matas' new collection, Flora Danica Parfums, was manufactured at Superga Beauty's Cosmeurop plant, and packaged at BPS Fragrances.

Wooden hoods

Each Flora Danica fragrance is vegan, refillable, and composed of up to 92 % of ingredients of natural origin. Fragrance caps made from ash wood are an elegant, eco-friendly alternative to traditional plastic or metal caps for perfume bottles. For this range, aesthetics and design reveal a natural, authentic aspect while adding a dimension of luxury and sophistication.

Seducing both men and women

Inspired by the iconic Flora Danica encyclopedia, commissioned by King Frederik V of Denmark in 1752 to enlighten people about the diversity of flowers and plants in Denmark, the Flora Danica collection combines Danish heritage and contemporary French vision via a palette of four fragrances:

  • Soul Garden: an immersion in a wild garden in the rain, combining the freshness of flowers with the warmth of a Nordic interior.
  • Flower Muse: a modern, joyful interpretation of flowering, evoking the fresh northern air and flora of Denmark.
  • Amber Echo: a memory of late summer, evoking salty skin warmed by the sun after a swim in the sea.
  • 1761: A fragrance that combines dazzling freshness and precious woods, capturing the ambivalence of a new opportunity, blending citrus, spices and sophisticated woody notes.

The fragrances are available in 50 and 100 ml formats and in a 125 ml refill version.

Seppic demonstrates the performance of its Aquaxyl moisturizer on all skin types

Seppic - Aquaxyl - all skin types

Today, consumers are looking for cosmetics that meet the specific needs of their skin type. Inclusivity is now as important a demand as hydration, one of the most sought-after claims for all skin types.

To meet this demand, Seppic has re-explored the potential of its iconic Aquaxyl moisturizer, to demonstrate its performance on phototype 1 to 6 skin types.

Aquaxyl Seppic- Ingredients - Product info

Corneometry and IWL (insensible water loss) measurements of different skin types were compared after eight hours to 30 days of application of a cream containing Aquaxyl 3% or a placebo. According to Seppic, Aquaxyl provides short- and long-term hydration for all skin types.

Aquaxyl is a natural 100% active ingredient1easily biodegradable2 and preservative-free, obtained thanks to a patented sugar technology that respects the principles of green chemistry and uses no solvents. 

This ingredient activates the three key mechanisms of natural hydration: "It reinforces barrier effects, optimizes water reserves and maximizes water circulation in the epidermis. What's more, it demonstrates excellent tolerance for sensitive or irritated skin, eye and gum tolerance, baby care and intimate care".says Seppic.

1. Content of natural origin according to ISO 16 128.
2. According to OECD 301F guidelines.

Citrus Rivera, a colorful fragrance

Citrus Rivera

"With its sunny notes and vibrant energy, Citrus Riviera is an ode to vitality, dynamism and self-improvement."says David Benedek, founder of BDK Parfums, a young Parisian perfume house.

Created with perfumer Ralf Schwieger, Citrus Rivera is rooted in the Mediterranean and refers to its flora and mistral wind. "Citrus Rivera is inspired by this Mediterranean shore, its flowers and citrus fruits. Woven by the Mistral, marine fragrances blossom in the tossing of the waves, impregnated with minerality and salt crystals. A dose of freshness emerges in a bath of citrus fruits and figs gilded by the sun. Then it's on to the hinterland, where tender jasmine, orange blossom and immortelle reveal themselves to the rhythm of the cicadas. These Mediterranean flowers, delicately flavored with eucalyptus, finally take to the sea, guided by the movement of water, to meet patchouli and vetiver. A story of water, citrus and sunshine "explains the perfumer.

A special feature of this creation is the limited edition packaging, illustrated by Édith Carron. " For this limited edition of Citrus Riviera, available at BDK Parfums and La Samaritaine, I chose to collaborate with illustrator Édith Carron. Her unique, poetic style resonates with the aesthetic and sunny atmosphere of the Citrus Riviera fragrance created with perfumer Ralf Schwieger. Her illustrations, right on the fragrance box, stimulate the imagination and perfectly capture the essence of the French Riviera and Cap d'Antibes, where I love to recharge my batteries. The more seasoned of you will recognize in the choice of colors those of the Olympic rings, a nod to this moment of unity that will transcend borders to bring the whole world together".explains David Benedek.

Guerlain teams up with Aptar Beauty for its first alcohol-free fragrance

La Petite Robe Noire L'Eau Rose Guerlain - Aptar Beauty

According to Aptar Beauty, world specialist in dispensing systems, the Sensea prestige fragrance pump offers the greatest spray comfort in the VP4 range, its flagship reference. Its wide angle (60°) delivers a fine, homogeneous mist, according to its designers. Reliable and robust, it features an optimized VP4 motor combined with a high-definition spray insert (HDS). 

Already used for its L'Art & La Matière fragrance collection, Guerlain has chosen this pump for La Petite Robe Noire L'Eau Rose, its first fragrance formulated without alcohol. "At Aptar Beauty, we offer dispensing solutions adapted to the new generation of fragrances, such as the alcohol-free formulations emerging on the market. Sensea offers this perfect balance between quality performance and a pleasant user experience. The combination of Sensea's high-definition spray and gentle diffusion is the ideal choice for the alcohol-free formulated fragrance of Guerlain's La Petite Robe Noire L'Eau Rose."says Anne Dupé, Key Account Manager, Aptar Beauty, EMEA.

For the L'Eau Rose limited edition, Guerlain and Aptar teams worked closely together to offer a sensory experience identical to the original fragrance, while preserving its unique olfactory identity. 

The silver-anodized top sub-assembly (pump and casing) is made in France, at Aptar Beauty's Normandy plant in Le Neubourg (27), as are all Aptar Beauty's standard prestige fragrance dispensing systems. 

Sensea is compatible with water-based or alcohol-free juices, as are the fragrance pumps Inune and Aqua Silk, perfectly in tune with the "clean beauty" trend.

Anjac Health & Beauty joins forces with Canadian APR Beauty

Anjac - APR Beauty

Anjac Health & Beauty, a French family-owned industrial group specializing in the formulation, manufacture and packaging of products for the health, beauty and dietary supplement sectors, has joined forces with Canadian company APR beauty to strengthen its cosmetics offering and expand its presence on the North American market.

High value-added services 

Toronto-based APR Beauty specializes in make-up and skincare products. Since 2019, it has been offering a range of high value-added services in formulation, manufacturing and packaging. As a turnkey service specialist, it masters several technologies, including powders, hot-casting, emulsions and gels. 

FDA (Food and Drug Administration) and Cosmos, the company offers technical solutions such as UV protection and OTC products in North America. Its R&D laboratory and manufacturing and packaging workshops employ 40 people. It also has a packaging design and sales office in New York, a commercial presence in Los Angeles and an operational office in Shanghai.

International cosmetics leaders as well as local independent brands (Indie brands) seek its expertise. As the company continues to grow, it will move a few kilometers from its current headquarters to open a brand-new site of almost 10,000 m², offering increased production capacity and a 2,000 m² research & innovation laboratory.

CEO Irene Zheng and APR Beauty co-founder John Shen remain shareholders. "This merger with Anjac Health & Beauty is based on a shared ambition to provide 360° service, high added value and innovation for our customers. It represents a formidable lever for acceleration through the sharing of know-how, commercial synergies and the strengthening of our respective presences, on the American market for ANJAC, and on the European market for APR Beauty".explains Irene Zheng. 

A strong presence on the North American market

The 2022 merger with Canadian companies Apollo and Pillar5 Pharma marked an important milestone for Anjac Health & Beauty, extending its presence in North America and strengthening APR Beauty's presence in the make-up and skincare segment.

This investment is part of a global strategy to develop Anjac's expertise in other markets and strengthen its turnkey offering. Almost a third of the Group's make-up customers (30 %) are already American brands.

This acquisition also enables the group to offer a wide range of "ever more complete and innovative" services, and comes just a few weeks after the inauguration of a Make-up Innovation and Customer Care center in Clichy, near Paris.

"We are very pleased with this new step for the Anjac Group, in line with our strategy of strengthening our service offerings, pooling know-how and expanding internationally. Irene Zheng is a seasoned entrepreneur, with whom we share the same ambition, that of offering ever more innovative, healthy, natural, high-performance and turnkey beauty solutions, for the benefit of our customers", says Aurélien Chaufour, President of the Anjac Group.

With the acquisition of APR Beauty, Anjac Health & Beauty will have 16 companies and 22 production sites, representing over 3,200 employees. The group expects to achieve sales of almost €800 million in 2024, including €40 million for APR Beauty.

Terre d'Oc calls on Coverpla for an eco-designed bottle and cap

site-industries-cosmetiques Image of a bottle of Loolong "terre d'Oc" eau de parfum with its colorful packaging, featuring a vibrant abstract motif in yellow, green and orange. The eco-designed bottle proudly displays "Made in France" on both the bottle and the box.

Terre d'Oc is a Provencal company whose natural products speak of stories and travels, ethics and craftsmanship, scents and well-being. Its four eaux de parfum reflect the brand's passion for naturalness and respect for the planet. To echo the brand's values, Coverpla proposed an aesthetic, refillable bottle and a biosourced resin cap.

A gentle bottle

"For our organic eaux de toilette, we were looking for a glass bottle with a soft, harmonious, rounded shape. A prestigious glass bottle with a thick, refillable base to offer our customers a product designed to prolong pleasure".explains Audrey Haupt, Marketing Manager.

Terre d'Oc chose the Venus model with screw ring (CV15) in its 100 ml format, a bottle that comes in 50 ml and 100 ml sizes and in two neck versions (screw and crimp).

A biosourced hood

Among a selection of hoods with a reduced carbon footprint, Terre d'Oc has also opted for the PHA-injected Lord hood. 

PHAs are biopolymers essentially derived from rapeseed oil. This material, which has mechanical properties comparable to those of PE, falls into the category of compostable materials.

"We're delighted to have found a partner in Coverpla who shares our values. Thanks to this wonderful collaboration, we've been able to create a product that combines elegance and durability! concludes Audrey Haupt.

Home Fragrance: Pure Trade covers Guerlain candles

Pure Trade - Guerlain L_art__la_matière_-_couvercle_bougie_premium

"Elevating perfume to the level of a work of art, L'Art & La Matière is a collection of olfactory masterpieces for lovers of beauty, signed by the hand of Guerlain perfumers."we read on the perfume house's website.

Products for the home, offered under the name L'Art de Vivre, extend the art of perfume into the home. Pure Trade, a recognized partner of luxury cosmetics and fragrance brands for which the company designs high-end primary and secondary packaging, has produced an exclusive candle cover for this product line.

This lid - compatible only with Guerlain candles - is made of stainless steel, embellished with the perfume house's iconic gold and its delicately polished embossed logo.

As well as adding an exclusive, elegant finishing touch to the collection's scented candles, the lid protects the wax, preserving its fragrant trail, and prevents smoke from dissipating once the flame is extinguished.

Syensqo launches Cerafy, a range of biomimetic natural ceramides

Syensqo - Cerafy

Belgian specialty chemist Syensqo has unveiled Cerafy, a range of natural ceramides for skin and hair care. The launch of this range follows the company's recent acquisition of JinYoung Bio, a South Korean supplier of specialty cosmetic ingredients.

Cerafy Pure NPo, the first product to be marketed, is a pure form of oleic ceramide 3, designed to combat the depletion of natural ceramides within the epidermis, by revitalizing the skin's barrier function.

"Ceramides play a central role in maintaining the skin's integrity by acting as a protective barrier within the stratum corneum, maintaining hydration and protecting against external aggressors. In this way, we enable formulators to develop personalized, eco-responsible daily skin care products that help restore, protect and maintain the skin's beauty and health."explains Léa Seidenbinder, global skincare segment manager at Syensqo, 

Cerafy is manufactured by a fermentation process via a platform that leverages biotechnologies to develop a safe, renewable carbon-based chemistry to accelerate the transition to sustainable, circular solutions.

Syensqo emphasizes that this range of ingredients brings unrivalled benefits to beauty products, particularly dermo-cosmetics, a fast-growing segment.

The Solvay group spin-off also notes that natural ceramides are also of interest in formulations for skin cleansing and hair care, representing avenues of research and innovation for the company.

The launch of Cerafy reflects Syensqo's determination to rapidly develop its skincare business by expanding its portfolio with innovative, natural skin care solutions.

Bioplastics produced from microalgae 

Green Bioplastics - Pierre Fabre Laboratories

Mariette Gibier, a Cifre doctoral student at Pierre Fabre Laboratories, won 1st prize in the Ocean & Innovation category of the Climate & Biodiversity trophies organized by the Maud Fontenoy Foundation in partnership with the Forvia Foundation, for her "Green Bioplastics" project carried out in collaboration with the R&D and Packaging teams at Pierre Fabre Laboratories and the biofoundry at Alliance Sorbonne Université.

The idea behind the project is to use microalgae capable of capturing CO2 to transform it into bioplastic, a biosourced and biodegradable material that could be used to manufacture future packaging for Pierre Fabre Laboratories' dermo-cosmetic products.

"This award is both recognition and motivation to continue on our demanding environmental trajectory. We are at the beginning of this very promising Green Bioplastics project, and we are convinced that the use of materials derived from living organisms, produced by microorganisms, is a promising avenue thanks to its low carbon impact and biodegradability. This project illustrates our desire to rethink packaging for a more sustainable future.says Franck Legendre, Director of Packaging Innovation and Sustainable Development.

Eco-design and biodegradability are among the main concerns of Pierre Fabre Laboratories. The company's aim is to see more than 70 % dermo-cosmetic products rated A or B on the Green Impact Index*. To achieve this, its R&D teams are exploring several avenues. 

Beyond bioplastics, research into new materials is one of them. As part of the Pulp in Action Consortium, Pierre Fabre Laboratories are working on a packaging solution based on cellulose fibers. This solution, which can be deployed on an industrial scale, will meet the requirements of cosmetic products in terms of quality of use, barrier properties and formula preservation (restitution rate, water resistance, formula stability, etc.).

The marketing of dermo-cosmetic products in refill form - currently representing between 15 and 40 % of sales depending on the references purchased - is another initiative by Laboratoires Pierre Fabre, which also makes refillable dermo-cosmetic products available in pharmacies through the Pharma Recharge Consortium.

Participation in a pilot project to set up a deposit system for cosmetics, with 10 other players in this sector, supported by the firm Circul'R, is another mode of action.

Laboratoires Pierre Fabre's Green Bioplastics project was presented alongside five other innovations inspired by the strategies of nature and the living world at the Biomim'Expo trade show held at the Parc Floral de Paris on June 11 and 12, 2024. 

* The Green Impact Index is a tool for displaying the environmental and societal impact of cosmetics, dietary supplements and family health and well-being products, based on the methodology described in Afnor Spec 2215. Developed in collaboration with 21 companies, associations and federations, it assesses products on more than 50 criteria.

Photo: ©Juliette-Dupuis-Carle

TechnicoFlor strengthens its presence in China and Southeast Asia

Jakarta plant inauguration @TechnicoFlor

Recognized worldwide for its expertise in natural and responsible formulation, French fragrance house TechnicoFlor is strengthening its presence in Asia with the opening of two new factories - in China and Indonesia - as well as the creation of a new subsidiary in Vietnam and new offices in Bangkok. Its ambition is to support the development of local brands to serve a buoyant market with specific consumer trends.

TechnicoFlor points out that the Asian perfume markets have experienced unprecedented growth in recent years, thanks to the emergence of the middle classes and changes in the population's behavior. While the "old-timers" didn't use perfume and used to give perfumes as gifts, the younger generations are following Western trends and are more inclined to buy scented products. 

As an example, market research company Mintel forecasts annual growth of 13.4 % between 2023 and 2027, reaching sales of 22 billion yuan ($3.05 billion) in China. Southeast Asia outside China is also a booming market. Indonesia, the largest country in this region, is of great interest to the perfume industry, due to its demographics and customs. 

While Indonesians prefer detergents, the Vietnamese market is dominated by candles, deodorants and hair care products. Thailand and South Korea focus on cosmetics. This diverse Asian market calls for great adaptability in production.

A new production center in Beautéville, China

With offices and laboratories in Shanghai, TechnicoFlor has been present in China for over 20 years, and has now opened a brand-new production plant in Beautéville, China. The French company prides itself on being the only European compounding house based in this "Cosmetic Valley", which brings together cosmetics companies, packaging suppliers and fragrance manufacturers. 

Its new 9,000 m2 plant meets the latest local standards (treated water and air emissions, separate storage for flammable products, solar panels and, soon, electric terminals for recharging cars) and is equipped with almost 1,000 raw materials. This production site will enable Technicoflor to meet the needs of a broad portfolio of Chinese customers and, in time, those of major Western accounts established locally. "While Western brands have been present in China for a long time, in recent years there has been enormous growth in the number of local brands requiring fragrances for a variety of applications: eau de toilette, candles, home fragrances, shower gels and cosmetics.explains Matthieu Prat, Managing Director of TechnicoFlor China. TechnicoFlor China aims to achieve sales of around 5.9 million euros and double-digit growth by 2024.

A stronger presence in Southeast Asia

TechnicoFlor is also stepping up its presence in Southeast Asia. Established in Indonesia since 2021, the group has inaugurated a 2,000 m2 Halal-certified plant in the Karawaci area (a district of the city of Tangerang, on the outskirts of Jakarta). The new site employs around thirty people and offers a range of 450 raw materials. The aim is to achieve sales of $5 million by the end of 2026 and $10 million by 2028. 

The fragrance house has also set up a subsidiary in Vietnam in 2023 and is preparing to open new offices in Bangkok. "The Indonesian market represents half the population of Asia excluding China. Indonesians are among the world's biggest consumers of fragrances, notably because they like highly dosed perfumes,  explains Jérémy Akoum, Managing Director of TechnicoFlor Indonesia. But each country has its own specific characteristics. In South Korea, for example, dosages are very low, and many products are declared "fragrance free", whereas in Thailand and Vietnam, the dosage of hygiene products is higher than European standards, because culturally, these countries use more scented body care products than eau de toilette".

After China Beauty Expo in Shanghai from May 20 to 22, then Indonesia Cosmetic Ingrédient in Jakarta from May 29 to 31, TechnicoFlor will be present at In-Cosmetics Asia in Bangkok from November 5 to 7, 2024.

Photo: Inauguration of @TechnicoFlor plant in Indonesia.

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