Dsm-firmenich, a global specialist in nutrition, health and beauty innovation, held its Capital Markets Day (CMD) in Paris on June 3, 2024. At this event, the company presented its strategy to investors and analysts, as well as its capabilities in science, innovation and creation.

The CMD discussed how the company is implementing its strategy. These included the merger, the company's focus on high-margin, high-growth activities, and the acceleration of its development.

"Our journey began with a bold dream and a vision to bring progress to life by combining the essential, the desirable and the sustainable. We combined the strengths of two iconic companies to create dsm-firmenich, a global leader in nutrition, health and beauty, able to help customers deliver what consumers want, what we collectively need and what our planet demands. Against the backdrop of a challenging 2023, (...) we have decided to de-prioritize certain business segments, and our way forward is guided by a finely-tuned strategy that prioritizes high-growth, high-margin segments in nutrition, health and beauty."commented Dimitri de Vreeze, CEO of dsm-firmenich.

Dsm-firmenich invests in science and research to innovate, with a focus on sustainable development. The four areas of research are: biotech, microbiome, receptor biology and sensory sciences, and data science and artificial intelligence. 

In its new configuration, dsm-firmenich will comprise three complementary business units: "Perfumery & Beauty", "Taste, Texture & Health" and "Health, Nutrition & Care".

Medium-term objectives include sales growth of 5 to 7 %.

_{Photo: Screenshot of the conference, featuring Dimitri de Vreeze, CEO of dsm-firmenich.}

The European Commission is due to submit a proposal to member states by 2025 for the universal restriction of all per- and polyfluoroalkylated substances (PFAS). France, for its part, is preparing a bill to ban the marketing of cosmetic products containing PFAS by January 1, 2026, ahead of Europe.

Cosmed, a trade association representing 1,030 cosmetics companies, has launched a PFAS working group to support the beauty industry in mastering this subject, in particular with a study of the impact of the use of this family of 4,000 chemical compounds, around 40 of which would concern cosmetic products.

While the association supports and encourages the abolition of PFAS in cosmetics, it advocates an alignment of the regulatory framework and the definition of criteria at European level, guaranteeing the free circulation of products through the establishment of a single market, and within a dual timeframe.

1- A ban on the intentional and direct addition of PFAS substances to the formula - the definition of a threshold

The cosmetics industry was quick to react to the PFAS issue, adopting alternatives to replace these substances in beauty products at an early stage. Substitution solutions are already available to formulators, and the industry remains committed to eliminating PFAS from cosmetic formulas.

However, according to Cosmed, this ban can only apply, in the first instance, to the intentional addition of PFAS to formulations. Thus, it is crucial to define a rational, implementable and verifiable threshold for PFAS content, in order to target these intentional additions. This will enable a clear interpretation of this intentionality and facilitate checks by the authorities.

2- PFAS in trace form: essential data collection

The widespread use of PFAS in many industrial sectors means that they may be present in trace amounts in products through packaging or water.

Water is often the main ingredient, accounting for between 60 % and 95 % of many creams, lotions, shower gels and shampoos.

With regard to packaging, Cosmed points out that the collection of potential presence can only be based on an exchange of information with suppliers. According to the organization, any collection of information that is not governed by a regulatory obligation is very delicate, if not practically impossible for SMEs. This uncertainty in data collection can only be resolved with a European rule.

Assessing the various possible sources of contamination and the associated trace levels requires data collection at all stages of the manufacturing chain. Cosmed stresses the importance of defining a realistic, phased implementation schedule to enable effective communication of information and gradual implementation of the restriction at all levels of the manufacturing chain, right through to the finished cosmetic product.

_{Photo: uluer servet yüce / Pixabay}

The term "cosmetopoeia", coined and registered by the Cosmetic Valley competitiveness cluster in 2010, refers to the inventory of natural resources and their traditional uses for skin care and well-being.

On May 30 and 31, 2024, the second edition of the "Atelier Cosmétopée ultramarine" organized by the Cosmétopée ultramarine network was held in La Réunion.

The aim of this event, aimed at players in the research and business worlds, is to federate and structure a common dynamic, and to stimulate initiatives to explore, develop and preserve biodiversity in the Domesian context around cosmetopoeia.

Organized by CIRAD in partnership with the Cosmetic Valley and Qualitropic - the Outermers bioeconomy competitiveness clusters, and supported by the French Overseas Departments and Territories Ministry, this "Ultramarine Cosmetopoeia Workshop" brought together experts, researchers and companies from the overseas cosmetics sector to discuss the latest advances, innovations and challenges linked to cosmetopoeia in overseas territories. 

The aim of the "Cosmétopée ultramarine" network is to promote knowledge of plants and their traditional uses for cosmetic purposes, and to encourage exchanges between French overseas territories. Its aim is to pool initiatives and network players to support the development of cosmetics industries in the French overseas territories. The network brings together socio-economic, institutional, educational, research and innovation players, all keen to highlight and protect the exceptional biodiversity of the French overseas territories.