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Carbios signs its first biorecycled PET sales contracts with L'Oréal and L'Occitane

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Carbios - Biotherm

Brands are taking a keen interest in recycled and recyclable PET from enzymatic recycling, enabling them to meet both their circularity and packaging quality objectives.

Carbios, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies aimed at reinventing the life cycle of plastics and textiles, has announced the signing of its first multi-year sales contracts with L'Oréal and L'Occitane en Provence for biorecycled r-PET from its future commercial plant in Longlaville. The French biotech has thus taken a further step in the execution of its strategy, making concrete its announcement to sign its first contracts in the first half of 2025.

The signing of these first two commercial contracts marks a major step forward for Carbios, confirming the existence of a market for r-PET derived from enzymatic recycling.

"Today, we have a strong momentum to achieve our sales and supply targets, which gives us confidence that we will soon be signing further contracts for our future Longlaville site. Our commitment to the success of our future plant is stronger than ever.explains Vincent Kamel, Carbios General Manager.

"This contract with Carbios underlines our willingness to collaborate with innovative players in PET recycling to create a circular economy. We congratulate Carbios on this step towards industrial scale for their enzymatic recycling solution; it's a key milestone for the packaging industry".says Jacques Playe, L'Oréal's Packaging Development Director.

"The partnership we are establishing with Carbios marks a decisive step for L'Occitane en Provence in our commitment to greater circularity in our packaging. It demonstrates the continuation and acceleration of our commitment to reducing our environmental impact. Today, alongside Carbios, we are giving concrete expression to a shared desire: that of building a high-performance European industry to promote the transition to a circular economy for plastics".says David Bayard, Packaging R&D Director at L'Occitane en Provence.

In March 2025, Biotherm, a L'Oréal brand, announced that it was preparing to market the very first fully biorecycled cosmetic bottle, designed using enzymatic PET recycling technology developed by Carbios.

Photo taken from the Carbios website.

Seppic: new sensory characterization data for its excipients

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Sensory characterization data Seppic

A subsidiary of Air Liquide Healthcare, Seppic creates innovative cosmetic products thanks to its wide range of ingredients.

The company has published comprehensive new sensory characterization data for its ranges of emollients, polymers and emulsifiers. This detailed analysis provides formulators - who are increasingly expressing the need for sensory data to find the most suitable ingredient for their formulations - with an insight into the visual appearance, texture and skin feel of these key ingredients.

More specifically, Seppic has carried out an in-depth mapping of its Emogreen and Emosmart emollient ranges against market benchmarks such as mineral oils, silicones or squalane. This study highlights variations in glide, playtime, viscosity and skin feel. 

Emosmart L15 (Inci: C13-15 Alkane), for example, offers the lightest touch and an evanescent feel, affichanting the same sensory profil as isododecane. In contrast, Emogreen HP 40 (Inci: C15-19 Alkane, Hydrogenated Polyfarnesene) offers extended playtime thanks to its higher viscosity and improved skin adhesion, resulting in a rich, comfortable sensory experience similar to dimethiconol or dimethicone. This sensory mapping provides formulators with all the information they need to replace certain ingredients and better meet consumer expectations.

A comparative sensory analysis of Seppic's polymers was also carried out, describing their visual appearance, consistency, product uptake, playtime and skin feel.

Infin, the characterization of Seppic's emulsifiers reveals their significative influence on the sensoriality of formulas, beyond their primary function. The analysis covers the entire application experience, from first contact with the texture to sensorial effects during and after application, including attributes such as penetration, comfort and skin feel.

Seppic Sensory Emollient
Figure: New sensory characterization data for the emollient range

Paris Packaging Week celebrates young talent with the 3ᵉ edition of the Future Leaders program

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Future Leaders Paris Packaging Week

Paris Packaging Week launches the third edition of Future Leaders, a program highlighting the young generation of professionals who are shaping the future of the global packaging industry.

Since its inception, Future Leaders has become a key platform for rising stars in the beauty, personal care, luxury, beverage and aerosol industries. The program celebrates young talent who innovate, inspire and drive change.

"This program quickly became one of the highlights of Paris Packaging Week, said Christelle Anya, Director of Content and Community at Paris Packaging Week. Every year, we discover incredibly creative and dynamic profiles. This new edition gives them even more visibility and voice."

"It's a unique experience to learn, grow and share your vision of tomorrow's packaging. Even if you don't think you're ready or experienced enough, it's precisely by seizing this kind of opportunity that you really evolve! You'll learn a lot, meet inspiring people and, above all, gain confidence in yourself, explains Romana Guennoud, Future Leader of the Class of 2025 and Packaging Engineer at Huda Beauty, addressing future candidates.

Future Leaders 2026 will benefit from :

  • international recognition as rising stars of packaging innovation;
  • speaking opportunities (podcasts, interviews, appearances on stage at Paris Packaging Week);
  • involvement in building the 2026 conference program;
  • privileged access to key industry events;
  • meetings with global brands, major suppliers and industry opinion leaders.

Open to applications from all over the world, the program is aimed at people aged 30 or under, working in the beauty, beverage, aerosol or luxury packaging sectors. Candidates may be packaging engineers, product managers, brand managers, marketers, buyers, suppliers or start-up founders, for example.

A panel of industry experts will select the winners on the basis of their achievements, potential and vision.

Application deadline: August 22, 2025 (100 % free of charge).

The Future Leaders 2026 will be announced in autumn 2025.

Find out more and apply :
www.parispackagingweek.com/fr/future-leaders

Exsymol Monaco wins yet another EcoVadis Gold Medal for its exemplary CSR approach

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Exsymol Monaco - EcoVadis

Monegasque company Exsymol, specializing in active ingredients for cosmetics, has once again been awarded the EcoVadis Gold Medal, consolidating its position as one of the most committed companies in terms of corporate social responsibility (CSR).

This distinction, awarded by the independent international organization EcoVadis, recognizes a CSR strategy that is coherent, structured and resolutely forward-looking. With an overall score of 81 %, Exsymol outperforms 98 % of the companies assessed in its sector, a remarkable result at a time when CSR requirements are becoming ever more stringent.

Outstanding performance in key areas

The in-depth analysis carried out by EcoVadis highlighted the company's significant advances in several crucial areas:

  • Top 2 % companies in the sector for overall CSR performance
  • Top 1 % in Social and Human Rights
  • Top 3 % in the Environment category
  • Top 1 % in responsible purchasing, a spectacular increase on the previous year (6 % in 2024)

These results testify to Exsymol's long-standing commitment to integrating CSR at the heart of its development model, both in terms of internal practices and relationships with partners and suppliers.

A collective dynamic

Behind these figures lies a collective mobilization: all Exsymol employees, accompanied by CSR manager Noëlle Garcia, have contributed to this success. The company takes concrete action on a daily basis to reduce its environmental impact, strengthen its responsible supply chains and promote well-being and fairness in the workplace.

International recognition for a sustainable ambition

This new Gold evaluation is not an end in itself, but rather an encouragement to continue and amplify our efforts. Exsymol intends not only to maintain its high standards, but also to continue innovating to meet tomorrow's environmental, social and economic challenges.

The Cosmetic Victories: two French projects win awards!

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TCV 2025 winners Cosmetic Velley and ESSEC @Studionathsam

On May 20, 2025, at the Maison de l'Amérique Latine in Paris, six finalists selected from 94 applications from 21 countries defended their projects before an exceptional jury made up of representatives of major brands, research laboratories and international institutions.

In the Academic Research category, Muriel Priault (IBGC - CNRS Bordeaux) won over the jury with her project entitled "L'instabilité naturelle des protéines comme biomarqueur du vieillissement".

The CNRS team is exploring an innovative approach to measuring the impact of the exposome on skin aging. Specializing in the spontaneous degradation of proteins due to chemical reactions altering their structure and function, the researchers aim to demonstrate that this phenomenon could serve as a precise indicator for assessing the effects of the environment on the skin. The identification of specific proteins as new biomarkers of aging could pave the way for better prevention and adapted cosmetic solutions.

In the Industrial Innovation category, Arthur Dervillez, representing Chartres-based Loretta, took the prize. 

Loretta's project aims to create a Digital Skin Twin based on skin nanotexture, combining high-speed AFM and AI for ultra-precise analysis. Supported by a partnership between a company, a university and international dermatologists, it will exploit a diverse panel of samples. The aim is to link the nanometric characteristics of skin to its chemical composition, to revolutionize dermatological and cosmetic studies on a global scale.

Organized by Cosmetic Valley since 2015, "The Cosmetic Victories" annually rewards the most promising innovations in the fields of scientific research and industrial development in perfumery and cosmetics. 

At a time when the cosmetics industry is constantly seeking performance, sustainability and new models, the competition is a trend-setter and a springboard for emerging talent. It is open to young companies, research centers and academic laboratories in France and abroad.

A veritable barometer of innovation, each year "The Cosmetic Victories" identifies initiatives capable of sustainably transforming the value chain, from organic sourcing of ingredients to formulation, efficacy testing, manufacturing and product recycling.

For its 10th anniversary, the competition has mobilized a panel of world-class experts from industry, public research, innovation financing, professional media, innovation and higher education: Cosmetic Valley, Essec Ventures, Laurence Dorlhac, Bpifrance, CNRS, Société Française De Cosmétologie, Caudalie, Chanel, Estée Lauder, La French Beauty, Groupe Rocher, Hermès, Les Secrets de Loly, L'Oréal, LVMH Recherche, Puig, Sisley, Shiseido, Sothys, Tcel.

"This 10th anniversary edition of The Cosmetic Victories marks a symbolic milestone in our commitment to cosmetic innovation. In a particularly competitive global context, it is more essential than ever to continue to focus on research and scientific daring in order to remain at the cutting edge. This year's industrial category, made up entirely of French finalists, vividly illustrates the dynamism and capacity of our industry to offer cutting-edge solutions, combining performance, authenticity and made-in-France excellence. I would like to warmly congratulate the winners, whose projects brilliantly embody the values of innovation, rigor and creativity for which French cosmetics are internationally renowned".says Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley and of the jury.

The two winners, recognized for their scientific excellence and industrial potential, will each receive a €10,000 prize and personalized support from Cosmetic Valley to accelerate the development of their innovation.

Wellmotion: Mane redefines the link between fragrance and emotion

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The editorial staff
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Fragrances - Wellmotion

Mane recently unveiled Wellmotion, an innovative platform designed to decode, analyze and understand the emotional responses generated by fragrances.

Well-being is a key concern for brands and consumers alike. With Wellmotion, Mane, French market leader and 5th worldwide player in the fragrance and flavor sector, offers a new tool in the field of olfactory creation. Based on scientifically validated neuroscience research and made possible by the power of artificial intelligence, this exclusive platform analyzes twice as many saliva biomarkers as the usual standards, according to its designers. The idea is to capture the emotional essence of fragrances with unrivalled precision.

Reinventing the approach to fragrance creation

With Wellmotion, Mane enriches perfumers' know-how with unprecedented scientific evidence. This patented technology enables them to design perfumes that arouse the desired emotions with greater reliability.

The tool combines in a unique way the subjectivity of human perception and the objectivity of physiological signals, opening up a new dimension in the creation of fragrances capable of evoking raw sensations, evoking a memory, a face, a story, touching the heart.

This project was born of a simple idea: if emotions guide our lives, why not create fragrances capable of accompanying them, with precision and accuracy?

Much more than a perfume

"Since its creation in 1871, Mane has always been guided by a quest for excellence and science. Developed jointly with the CNRS and French biotech start-up SkillCell, Wellmotion is built on a rigorous foundation. We're redefining the olfactory experience by rethinking the way emotions are measured in real time, thanks to objective testing and unprecedented precision".the company says.

In September 2025, a peer-reviewed scientific study will present Wellmotion's methodology and results in detail. Based on the analysis of four key salivary biomarkers - a major breakthrough in non-invasive test analysis, according to Mane - the study confirms Mane's ability to predict emotional responses with a level of reliability unprecedented in the industry. This validation positions Wellmotion as both a tool and a new benchmark for fragrance formulation. "It's the missing link between the perfumers' intuition and olfactory genius, their experience and scientific precision".explains Mane.

"With Wellmotion, we're taking it a step further: we're designing fragrances that don't just evoke emotions, but reinforce them, with rigor and intention", says Caroline Dubourg, Director of R&I Consumer Goods.

By identifying the biological emotional signature specific to each creation, Wellmotion opens up new perspectives for brands: offering measurable and relevant emotional experiences, based on recognized scientific validation.

Parfums Christian Dior adopts Axilone's recycled magnets for its packaging

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The editorial staff
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SAUVAGE Main_PARFUMS CHRISTIAN DIOR

Axilone, a leading manufacturer of packaging for luxury cosmetics, and Parfums Christian Dior are working together to make packaging magnets more durable. 

"Magnets account for 2.5 % of the weight composition of a fragrance such as Sauvage. However, they account for almost 25 % of the material carbon footprint of the same fragrance due to their very high specific emission factor. This is why Parfums Christian Dior adopted Axilone's recycled magnet solution to reduce the carbon footprint of magnets by 40 %."explains Philippe Renault, Director of Innovation and Packaging Development at Parfums Christian Dior.

Magnets are the key element in creating the "click" effect on closing and the signature sound of each brand. However, they require the use of rare-earth elements. In the luxury packaging industry, the challenge is to preserve magnetic functionality while reducing the environmental footprint of magnets. With particular constraints: magnets need to be very small and therefore have high magnetic power as well as multiple polarization options. Because they meet these requirements and have a high magnetic density, neodymium-based magnets are the preferred choice for beauty product packaging.

"Rare earths are one of the most significant elements in the environmental impact of magnets, which is why we decided to focus on this specific point and look for post-consumer recycling solutions."says Reynald Trochel, Director of Innovation at Axilone.

Axilone now offers packaging solutions incorporating magnets made from several 100 % PCR recycled rare earths, reducing the carbon footprint of magnets by 40 % worldwide.

In collaboration with long-standing partners, the packaging manufacturer has brought to the beauty market this principle of Neodymium-Iron-Boron magnets made from certified 100 % PCR rare earths, while retaining their functional characteristics in terms of pull-out force, polarization possibilities, magnetic field density, resistance to mechanical shock and corrosion, and virtually infinite service life... In addition to the durable characteristics of these rare earths, the magnets are manufactured in compliance with the strictest social and environmental standards.

A collective commitment to the environment

Axilone has placed CSR at the heart of its strategy and values, and has partnered with leading brands to develop sustainable solutions without compromising the luxury and differentiation of packaging, such as specific gestures or the ability to orient packaging elements to highlight a logo or fit into an overall design and concept.

"There is no longer any doubt that the new luxury must be sustainable, says Laurent Fontaine, Axilone's Sales Directorand the most prestigious beauty brands undeniably use it as their spearhead. So it was both natural and exciting to build this magnetic approach with Parfums Christian Dior.

The long-standing partnership between Parfums Christian Dior and Axilone enables the co-development of ever more virtuous packaging solutions: these magnets made from PCR-certified recycled 100% rare earths will soon be used on the caps of Sauvage 60 ml and 200 ml bottles. PCR certification will offer genuine traceability to consumers, who are increasingly concerned about the sustainability of the packaging they buy.

Verescence announces the arrival of new shareholders

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The editorial staff
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Verescence

Verescence (2,500 employees worldwide by 2024), specialist in glass bottles for the perfume and cosmetics industries, announces the arrival of the consortium made up of Movendo Capital and Draycott, two family investment holdings, as the group's new shareholder.

Formerly the luxury flaconnage division of Saint-Gobain Desjonquères, owned since 2019 by London-based private equity firm Stirling Square Capital Partners, Verescence is positioned as a preferred partner of the beauty industry's leading brands. 

With 130 years of glassmaking expertise, the French company produces 600 million bottles a year at its four production sites and five finishing facilities in Europe, North America and Asia. 

"We are delighted with the arrival of new shareholders who support our strategy, investment plans and sustainability program, including our decarbonization roadmap. We are convinced that this project is positive for all our employees, customers and partners."comments Thomas Riou, President of Verescence.

"We are delighted to acquire a global leader with a strong and experienced management team, perfectly aligned with our value creation strategy. Verescence's industry-leading position matches our investment criteria in several key dimensions. By combining management's expertise with our own, we aim for sustainable growth and value creation for all stakeholders."says João Coelho Borges, founding partner of Draycott, and Pedro Pereira Gonçalves, CEO of Movendo.

Movendo Capital is a Netherlands-based investment company operating in Europe and the United States. Draycott is a Portuguese investment management company.

Photo taken from the Verescence website.

Valentino's Spike collection adopts Cosmogen's mini lipstick

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The editorial staff
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COSMOGEN - Valentino mini Lipstick

Cosmogen, which created the Spike Valentino matte lipstick case, has also designed the brand's mini lipsticks.

Valentino Beauty's brand now has a format suited to travel retail and discovery boxes, offering a no-use option. This economical format also makes it easier to offer several shades at an affordable price, a demand expressed in particular by GenZ.

With a capacity of 1.4g, the mechanism is fully customizable and adaptable to meet the industrial constraints of brands.

An iconic case for an iconic lipstick
Spike Valentino, Valentino Beauty's iconic refillable matte lipstick in 13 shades, is presented in a square-section golden aluminum case designed by Cosmogen. The brand and its logo are embossed on the base and top of the lipstick respectively.

Charlotte Franceries to join Amoéba's Board of Directors

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The editorial staff
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Amoeba

Amoéba, an industrial greentech specializing in the development of natural microbiological solutions based on the patented exploitation of amoebae, announces that its Board of Directors has unanimously decided to present Charlotte Franceries as a candidate for the position of Director at the next Annual General Meeting, to be held on June 26, 2025. Her forthcoming appointment to the Board would be a major event for Amoéba, which would then benefit from the multiple expertise of a personality with extensive skills in the cosmetics and beauty industry, ranging from general management of international companies to international marketing and communications.

A graduate of EM Lyon, Charlotte Franceries worked for over 25 years in the L'Oréal group, where she began her career in international marketing management for the Vichy brand and then for L'Oréal Paris skin care. She went on to become International General Manager of Biotherm, General Manager France of Yves-Saint-Laurent Beauté and, after a spell at the head of the Roger et Gallet brand, International General Manager of L'Oréal Paris, the Group's largest and most prestigious subsidiary.

She joined the McCann Group's French agency seven years ago, and is now its President. The McCann Group is one of the world's leading advertising and communications agencies, present in over 100 countries worldwide. Within the Group, Ms Franceries is also responsible for the L'Oréal account worldwide.

"I'm delighted to be joining Amoéba's Board of Directors, and I'd like to thank its members for their confidence. I was convinced by Amoéba's great potential for innovation, and in particular by the innovative and highly promising nature of its cosmetic ingredient. The company has unique know-how, and I look forward to contributing to the strategic choices that will shape the company's future, in particular by giving it the benefit of my specific knowledge of the world of cosmetics and communication".said Charlotte Franceries. 

"We are very proud and honoured to welcome Charlotte Franceries to our Board of Directors. Her impressive experience acquired in marketing and general management positions within the L'Oréal group, enriched by her complete mastery of advertising and communication techniques acquired at the head of the McCann France group, will enable our Amoéba business to benefit from new skills, complementary business approaches and fresh strategic visions. Over and above the obvious benefits that Ms Franceries' arrival will bring to our cosmetics business, which is in the process of being launched, her experience will benefit all our activities, including biocontrol".said Benoît Villers, Chairman of Amoéba's Board of Directors.

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