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Pharmarôme and Mane extend their exclusive partnership 

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The editorial staff
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Mane

Pharmarôme, a recognized expert in pharmaceutical flavoring, and Mane, a French company in the fragrance industry, have announced the extension of their exclusive distribution agreement. Already in force in France, this strategic partnership now also covers the Italian market.

This strategic development aims to offer Italian pharmaceutical manufacturers easier access to highly specialized flavors, accompanied by dedicated regulatory and technical support.

This extension is part of the two companies' joint drive to strengthen their presence in Southern Europe's pharmaceutical market, offering a top-quality product range combining innovation, traceability and regulatory compliance. 

Combining Pharmarôme's technical expertise and Mane's aromatic excellence, the two partners offer pharmaceutical laboratories aromatic solutions that comply with the sector's strict regulatory requirements. 

"The extension of our partnership with Mane confirms the relevance of our model and our ability to support European pharmaceutical companies in their sensory formulation challenges".said Robin Chamorot, Chairman and CEO of Pharmarôme.

"This strengthened partnership is in line with our desire to provide a tailor-made response to the needs of the pharmaceutical sector, while promoting our aromatic expertise of excellence."added Renaud Milliard, Mane's Aromes & Pharma Distribution Director for Western Europe.

Photo from the Mane website.

Kat Burki: the science of collagen

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The editorial staff
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Kat Burki

From October 2025, Kat Burki will be offering Amino Protein Mask, a protein mask with collagen and form-control amino acids.

This high-performance milky treatment has been formulated with intelligent amino acid-based rejuvenation technology. Designed to stimulate natural collagen production in three stages, it has been developed to restore the skin barrier: restoring firmness and elasticity while smoothing wrinkles and signs of skin fatigue.

Its formula combines a clinically proven complex of Tef Seed Extract, glutamic acid and L-Proline, enriched with smoothing plant collagens, to boost internal regeneration mechanisms and durably firm skin.

According to Kat Burki, results are achieved in three stages: anti-inflammatory therapy (rosehip oil, sea buckthorn, Hexapeptide-8: to soothe and prepare the skin to receive the active ingredients), activation of collagen communication (hydrolyzed soy proteins, rice amino acids, Adansonia Digitata seed extract and L-Proline: to stimulate collagen production and improve skin structure), collagen stimulation and skin barrier reinforcement (hydrolyzed Eragrostis Tef seed extract to strengthen and protect the skin over the long term).

The scent of vanilla...

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The editorial staff
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Vaniille Caviar - BDK Parfums

Vanille Caviar is a fragrance "greedy, woody, matte".according to its designer, Alexandra Carlin, senior perfumer at IFF. The sixth creation in BDK Parfums' Matières collection, Vanille Caviar is a fragrance with vanilla processed to the extreme, elevated to the rank of a noble material. The creamy vanilla is black, dense and textured, yet with a hint of clarity. A raw, precious material, like plant caviar. 

Like a monochrome, the fragrance revolves around this single olfactory raw material, revealed in all its nuances by extract CO₂ and absolute. Cocoa and resinous materials - balsam of Peru and cistus labdanum - unfold all its richness and depth. At the heart, a caviar accord of vanilla with salty, mineral accents, as precious as it is singular. All around, subtle contrasts: the freshness of cardamom, the fruity brightness of blackcurrant, the warmth of cocoa beans.

"For Vanille Caviar I was inspired by a trip to Madagascar in 2017. I still remember that smell in the vanilla plantations. That of the pods, dark and shiny, almost liquorish, both powerful and deeply sensual. When I mentioned this memory to Alexandra Carlin, she immediately recalled her first trip to the red island in the Indian Ocean. Like me, she remembered the moment when the soft, fat, fleshy pod, just split open, reveals its precious black caviar-like seeds, with their gourmand, almost liquorish, deeply sensual scent. Vanille Caviar brings to life this memory of a lover of fine materials.says David Benedek, founder of BDK Parfums.

According to David Benedek, Vanille Caviar represents a completely different proposition from Vanille Leather, the perfume house's other creation, a more abstract, leathery interpretation. "Vanille Caviar is a carnal and literal approach to the pod, very natural, which can be both sweet and animalic," emphasizes the founder of BDK Parfums.

"In Vanille Caviar I wanted to explore the intimate flesh of vanilla, to plunge to the heart of its pod, when you open it and it oozes that shiny black nectar. A liquorish, amber and spicy addiction that left an indelible trace in my perfumery memory during my first trip to Madagascar. The squares of pods, lined up slightly apart, drying in the sun, create an alternation of matte and shiny blacks reminiscent of Soulages paintings. That's how I built this perfume, using layers of thick, dense materials, balms, resins, powders, and working its shiny, luminous caviar."explains Alexandra Carlin.

Debut biotech raises $20 million

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The editorial staff
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Debut Biotechnology

Debut, a cosmetics biotechnology company, has raised $20 million. Its stated aim is to use artificial intelligence to make progress in the discovery of new-generation ingredients targeting the 14 distinctive signs of ageing.

"Debut strives to stay at the forefront of skincare innovation and bring cutting-edge biotechnology to all beauty brands through highly performing and differentiated ingredients. This funding will strengthen our ability to sift through over 50 billion ingredients to explore the 99.999 % of unknown molecules that can optimize skin health and make skin longevity a reality."said Joshua Britton, PhD, founder and CEO of Debut.

According to the company, the predictive capabilities of Debut's proprietary skin health datasets have recently surpassed those of publicly available datasets, achieving a data consistency of 99 % versus 85 % for public datasets. "This means we can predict better ingredients, faster, thanks to our state-of-the-art models in which we've been investing for several years. We're delighted to be embarking on the search for new chemical entities (NCEs), rather than settling for existing ingredients in nature, in order to pioneer innovation in skin health and support the growth of beauty brands." said Joshua Britton.

Debut's fund-raising comes at a time of heightened investor caution. The company is ready to penetrate the Asian market, driven by advanced formulations and high-performance skin care products. "AI, combined with an understanding of skin biology, makes it possible to create customized formulation solutions for different geographical areas, which was previously impossible."said the company's founder. Debut's expansion in Asia will begin in Singapore, where the company is due to partner with leading brands.

The latest round was backed by Fine Structure Ventures, EDBI, Wealthberry, Bold (L'Oréal's venture capital fund), GS Futures, Sandbox Industries and Material Impact, among others.

Image: © Mark Wall, Debut

Aptar Beauty launches TSP, an eco-friendly trigger sprayer

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The editorial staff
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Aptar - TSP

Aptar Beauty, a global specialist in dispensing systems, has developed TSP (Trigger Spray Pump), a new all-plastic trigger sprayer designed to meet the growing demands of the home care market.

Thanks to its composition of polypropylene (PP) and polyethylene (PE), including the PP spring, TSP is recyclable* in the polyolefin stream. The plastic spring never comes into contact with the formula, guaranteeing optimum compatibility even with the most corrosive household formulations. Its 1.2 cc dosage is ideal for household maintenance, surface cleaning and stain removal applications.

Recyclable and highly compatible, TSP also offers a comfortable grip, smooth actuation and controlled release.

Numerous design and customization options are available: several nozzles to create different spray types (spray/flux, spray/foam), various neck formats, as well as optional safety features (notched neck, child lock, clip) can be integrated.

A new entrant in a promising market

The global market for trigger sprayers is growing steadily, driven by high consumer expectations in terms of performance, convenience and durability. The market's dominant segments - surface care and stain removers - are very dynamic, particularly in Asia and Latin America. Faced with this growing demand, TSP has enriched Aptar Beauty's offer in this product category.

"TSP is much more than just a trigger pump: it's a strategic addition to our product portfolio, illustrating our commitment to performance and recyclability."says Luigi Garofalo, Global Category Director Personal Care & Home Care at Aptar Beauty.

*highly recyclable

Givaudan completes acquisition of majority stake in Vollmens Fragrances 

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The editorial staff
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Vollmens Fragrances

Swiss industrialist Givaudan, a global specialist in fragrances and beauty products, has announced the successful acquisition of a majority stake in the Saltinho, Brazil-based perfume house Vollmens Fragrances.

Founded in 2004 and specializing in fragrances, Vollmens Fragrances (180 employees) not only serves the Latin American market, but is also extending its operations to Central America, Africa and North America. This acquisition is part of a strategy to expand its presence with local and regional customers. 

Nestor Francisco Mendes and Rinaldo José Mendes, members of the founding family, will continue to manage Vollmens under the agreement with Givaudan.

"I am very pleased to welcome the Vollmens team to the Givaudan family. With their great creativity and local market knowledge, this partnership will further strengthen our business in the high-growth markets of Latin America, and we look forward to working together."says Gilles Andrier, Managing Director of Givaudan.

"The completion of this acquisition is a great achievement for Givaudan and marks the beginning of a promising new chapter. By combining our creative and innovative capabilities, we will leverage the complementary strengths of Givaudan and Vollmens Fragrances to offer the best fragrances to customers and partners in the region".says Maurizio Volpi, President of Givaudan Perfumes and Beauty.

Although the terms of the agreement are not disclosed, the Vollmens Fragrances S.A. business would have contributed around CHF 25 million in additional sales to Givaudan's results in 2024 on a pro forma basis. Givaudan plans to finance the transaction from existing resources. Under the terms of the agreement, Givaudan and the Vollmens founding family have the option of further increasing Givaudan's stake in the future.

Photo from Vollmens' Linkedin page.

A luxurious wooden lid for Guerlain's Habit Rouge Spirit

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The editorial staff
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Quadapack_Guerlain

Habit Rouge by Guerlain, the first amber fragrance for men, celebrates its 60th anniversary. The iconic product is a tribute to the equestrian art so dear to Jacques Guerlain, its creator. A limited edition - Habit Rouge Spirit - celebrates the occasion. A special feature of the bottle's cap is that it is made from FSC-certified oak.

Sublimated in oak barrels, Habit Rouge Spirit is characterized by deep, woody notes. The cap visually reflects the fragrance's identity. It is covered in a deep red varnish and engraved with the emblematic double G, the finishing touch to a design that embodies savoir-faire, creativity and timeless luxury.

Woodacity Hidden, the model chosen by Guerlain, is Quadpack's most prestigious wooden cap. Made exclusively from wood from controlled sources, it features a hidden internal grooved pattern for a clean, minimalist look. Its patented closure system gives it the same functionality as a plastic cap. The use of a water-based biodegradable glue guarantees perfect assembly of the parts and contributes to reducing environmental impact.

Guerlain has relied on Quadback for many years, and the choice of wood for the packaging of several beauty products is part of its eco-innovation approach. This is based on reducing the quantity of virgin plastics of fossil origin and incorporating recycled or biosourced materials into new products. For Habit Rouge Spirit, the brand chose ash wood from sustainably managed forests, processed in Quadpack Wood's low-emission production plant in Catalonia, Spain.

Martine Skin in selective distribution with L'Armoire à Beauté

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The editorial staff
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Martine Skin - Range

Founded in 2017 by Aurore Humez-Leray, L'Armoire à Beauté offers a new distribution model, one that is circular and supportive, valuing both consumers and partners. Present online and in a growing network of local pharmacies and beauty salons, L'Armoire à Beauté selects independent brands with strong territorial roots.

Martine Skin, founded by Gaëlle Garcia Diaz and acclaimed for its minimalist, sensorial and highly effective approach to skincare, is one of the selected brands. The brand enters selective distribution through L'Armoire à Beauté, the exclusive distributor for pharmacies and beauty salons.

Crème (a moisturizing, plumping treatment with hyaluronic acid and plant squalane), Grasse Night (an ultra-comforting, regenerating night cream) and Le Nettoyant (a gentle foaming gel that purifies without aggressing) make up the Martine Skin range. The brand aims to become the French skincare must-have. Natural, clean and without superfluity, Martine Skin skincare products are designed in France and Belgium. Vegan and cruelty-free, they contain at least 95 % of ingredients of natural origin.

Ferragamo and Bormioli Luigi: responsible luxury

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The editorial staff
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2025_Fiamma Ferragamo 100ml

With the launch of its Fiamma brand, Ferragamo infuses "timeless, conscious beauty. Its centerpiece: a refillable bottle, designed by Bormioli Luigi, with a complex glass shape.

With this new fragrance, the Italian brand wanted a remarkable, long-lasting scent whose curves were breathed into it by nature. Bormioli Luigi was entrusted with the creation of a refillable bottle in a unique 100 ml format, whose luxury is based on a subtle asymmetry between the front and back and on both sides. 

This is complemented by a particularly sophisticated decoration: masked metallization and two-tone double silk-screen printing. The technical process required for asymmetry is a challenge. 

With the launch of this new product, Ferragamo boasts over 80 % of biodegradable ingredients.

Brenntag Specialties Beauty & Care: formulation innovations presented at HPCI CEE 2025

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The editorial staff
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Brenntag Marian Zemlak

Brenntag Beauty & Care will be presenting its latest innovations at HPCI Central and Eastern Europe, to be held on September 24 and 25, 2025 at Expo XXI in Warsaw, Poland. 

The Beauty & Care team will be presenting its new formulations. Product highlights include multi-functional sun protection and anti-aging concepts, sulfate-free hair care formulations with a high content of ingredients of natural origin, multi-purpose surfactants, eco-label-compatible materials and high-performance vehicle care solutions.

Visitors are invited to discover these innovations for themselves through specially selected textures and application concepts. Each formulation highlights the versatility and performance of the ingredients, offering formulators a source of inspiration for next-generation products.

"Consumers expect more from daily care products: enhanced performance, more natural ingredients and sustainable sourcing. At HPCI CEE 2025, we'll be showing how our wide range of ingredients and technical expertise help our customers meet these demands with smart, forward-looking solutions."emphasizes Marian Zemlak, Sales Director, Beauty & Care, CEE Nord.

Photo: Marian Zemlak

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