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Expanscience: new plant inaugurated in Peru  

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Expanscience Peru

On Tuesday June 4, Expanscience inaugurated its second plant for processing plant-based raw materials in Peru. This new site will enable the company to reinforce its "responsible plant sourcing" approach.

Laboratoires Expanscience has been present in South America for over 20 years. The company, which specializes in dermocosmetics, rheumatology, dermatology and the marketing of active cosmetics, has strengthened its presence in Peru, notably with the acquisition of Deshidratados Tropicales in 2016.

Based in Lima for over 30 years, Deshidratados Tropicales processes plant raw materials for pharmaceutical and cosmetic uses. Under the management of Sébastien Debrock since its takeover, the company employs 55 people and maintains partnerships with over 500 local producers.

Deshidratados Tropicales has reached a new milestone with the inauguration of its second production site in the country, dedicated primarily to the production of avocado oil.

As a raw material, avocado is used in seven cosmetic active ingredients produced by Expanscience, as well as in Piasclédine300, a drug for the treatment of osteoarthritis, the company's flagship product, and in several dermocosmetic products from the Mustela brand.

Virtuous production

In Peru, Expanscience is currently carrying out a life cycle assessment (LCA) of avocado cultivation in partnership with the Catholic University of Lima, with a view to continuous improvement and impact reduction.

Thanks to an optimized and modernized production flow, the new Peruvian plant has already enabled a significant reduction in the gas consumption required for avocado drying, while improving working conditions for employees, according to Expanscience.

Deshidratados Tropicales promotes the purchase of avocados from sorting deviations, ensuring a source of income for small producers while combating waste. The whole avocado is recycled via upcycling.

One of Expanscience's priorities is "responsible plant sourcing", an approach initiated over 15 years ago, for its supply chains in France and abroad. The company relies on the best practices established by the UEBT (Union for Ethical BioTrade), of which it has been a member since 2011, as well as compliance with international agreements on access to natural resources and human rights.

"We are proud to inaugurate this plant, which demonstrates our determination to master our value chain and contribute to more sustainable development, both economically and environmentally", comments Jean-Paul Berthomé, Chairman of Expanscience.

" We cultivate close relationships and win-win partnerships with local producers. This commitment enables us to reduce our impact while stimulating local economic development, says Sébastien Debrock, General Manager of Deshidratados Tropicales.

Photo: ©APU Productions

Lipoid Kosmetik launches new products based on Herbasol plant water

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Herbasol_Plant-Water

Lipoid Kosmetik, a leading manufacturer of high-quality botanical extracts, active ingredients and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industry, introduces Herbasol Plant Water, a versatile range of plant waters optimized for cosmetic use. 

According to Lipoid Kosmetik, this product line embodies the power of plant ingredients (100 natural %, high proportion of plant components, short Inci, Lactobacillus ferment used for natural preservation), and combines this with a transparent, odorless appearance that is easy to incorporate into a variety of cosmetic formulations. 

Herbasol Plant Water products meet the demands of natural, clean and pure beauty concepts, as well as a feeling of freshness and hydration. Fermentation metabolites also enable fermented and postbiotic skin care claims. 

Produced by steam distillation, a process that extracts water-soluble compounds from plant matter to produce a condensed liquid containing its pure essence, plant waters are associated with deep hydration, pure, beneficial ingredients and the idea of naturally radiant, revitalized skin. These hydrolats evoke natural, refreshing and nourishing images. 

Cartier perfume bases benefit from TNT Group know-how 

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site-industries-cosmetiques A gold perfume bottle and matching round container are set against a ribbed gold base. The bottle, which resembles a Brouillon auto in its elegance, has a cylindrical shape with a smooth finish, while the container prominently displays the brand name "Cartier" in the center of its lid.

Cartier has imagined a new ritual for the body with its olfactory-neutral Bases à parfumer, which can be adapted to the fragrances that each person adds. The range includes an oil (Huile pure) and a cream (Crème pure), as well as alcohol-free concentrated fragrances.

For its original ritual, Cartier entrusted TNT Group with the design and manufacture of the cap adorning the Huile pure bottle.

Manufactured in Europe, this cap is composed of a gold-galvanized zamak outer part assembled with a PP insert by means of bouterollage. According to the manufacturer, the semi-automated and manual production and finishing process is particularly meticulous, offering a silky touch, a pleasant opening and a color perfectly consistent with that of all the line's packaging. 

In addition to bringing Cartier's creation to life, TNT Group, which specializes in the design, development and manufacture of high-quality metal parts, was able to implement precision engineering to produce a made-in-Europe product that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing.

Photo: © Cartier

Aircos and Pascual invest and confirm their ambitions in make-up 

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Aircos

Aircos, expert in made-in-France cosmetic powders, and Pascual, specialized in hot-cast and liquid make-up forms, two companies in the Anjac Health & Beauty group, have inaugurated a joint research and innovation laboratory, based just outside Paris, in Clichy (92). The two partners are also investing in production sites at Ferrières-en-Brie (liquid and hot-cast make-up forms) and Romorantin and Ardon, south of Orléans (powders).

A new joint R&I laboratory in Paris

With average annual growth of almost 30 % since 2022, the Anjac Health & Beauty group's make-up expertise is a promising business that employs 300 people, including 25 dedicated to research and innovation. 

Geographically close to the Group's scientific department, where skincare R&D experts work - thus facilitating knowledge sharing - the joint Research & Innovation laboratory benefits from the arrival of an industrial microbiologist, and the setting up of a New Product Development (NPD) department to ensure optimal customer service in a make-up market driven by dynamic product launches.

"These choices represent a major step forward for our make-up business. They embody our ambition of "White Glove service", i.e. offering a tailor-made, high value-added service for our customers, quality of execution and ever more innovative products. This is key in a highly dynamic market, where almost 50% of references are renewed every year. These synergies also aim to facilitate the customer experience through a single point of contact for all support and operational functions".says Frédéric Lagacherie, CEO of Aircos and Pascual. 

New investments to boost production capacity

Other investments have also been made, with the conversion of a second powder production site at Ardon, a few minutes from Orléans, as well as the reinforcement of production capacities at the Romorantin site (powders) for Aircos, and at the Pascual site at Ferrières-en-Brie (liquids and hot-cast). The aim of these investments is to triple free-flowing powder production by 2025.

"These investments will enable us to consolidate our position as a benchmark industrial partner in make-up technologies, with expertise and a strong innovation plan in France and internationally. Nearly 120 people have been recruited for 2023, the vast majority of them new positions, and we intend to keep up this momentum to continue offering our customers future international bestsellers. It's worth noting that we already generate a third of our sales from American brands, with the remainder split between Europe and Asia.concludes Frédéric Lagacherie.

Photo from Aircos website.

Make-up: nature, innovation and sensoriality

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The editorial staff
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GOTHA COSMETICS _ bubble gum family

At MakeUp in Paris, held May 29-30, 2024, Gotha Cosmetics presented its latest collection inspired by the "deep" essence of nature.

According to the Italian company, Gotha's make-up solutions embody the purity and tranquility of nature: "By integrating cutting-edge technology with nature's finest elements, the products combine earthy tones that reflect the richness of deep forests with vibrant hues inspired by gardens in bloom, offering a unique and inspiring experience." An approach that underlines the company's commitment to sustainability.

Gotha Cosmetics' collection includes a skin balm (Lush-ious skin balm) with a texture (Cream To Dream-Y-OU) that is soft to the touch and evanescent once applied, "blending perfectly into the skin like a silky veil of light." This formula is composed of 99.7 % natural ingredients.

Bubble Gum Family, for its part, is based on a hybrid formula, both in terms of texture and performance, presented as " as light as powder, but as creamy as cream. " Bubble Gum Family products are water-resistant and modular.

A mascara called Youtube-Ing is also part of the collection unveiled at MakeUp in Paris. Gotha Cosmetics emphasizes its performance, pointing out that the mascara's innovative formula offers excellent volumizing and waterproofing properties, while removing easily with lukewarm water. "Its formula will envelop every lash, for a gorgeous panoramic effect, without clumps or flakes."

Ode to joy lipstick completes the collection. Made with 90 % of natural ingredients, the lipstick's creamy, light and enveloping formula doesn't compromise on performance, according to Gotha Cosmetics. It coats lips with powerful, intensely pigmented color from the very first application, for an even result. Lips appear plumped, with a long-lasting satin finish that stays intense all day long.

Photo: Bubble Gum Family.

A tablet to clean your skin

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site-industries-cosmetiques Three round white tablets are arranged on a plain teal background, resembling the neat layout of a Brouillon car.

SkinSitu Caps won the Bronze award at the Sensory Bar during the In-Cosmetics 2024 trade show in Paris. Its special feature: a rethought skin cleansing ritual.

Designed to offer a "purifying and instantaneous" beauty experience, according to Technature, the company behind the new product, SkinSitu Caps takes the form of a compact anhydrous tablet that transforms into a cleansing foam as soon as it comes into contact with water.

An innovative and respectful formula

In addition to its shape, SkinSitu Caps features a formula that combines gentle cleansing agents for clean, revitalized skin, a prebiotic to maintain the natural balance of the skin's microbiota, and a moisturizing active ingredient to ensure optimal skin hydration.

Practicality and efficiency

Designed to meet the needs of travellers and city dwellers in a hurry, SkinSitu Caps is small, practical and easy to use. "maximum efficiency, with no compromise between performance, convenience and pleasure".says Technature.

According to its designers, the award received at In-Cosmetics 2024 highlights not only the product's innovation, but also its unique sensory impact and proven effectiveness.

Scientists, industrialists and political representatives meet to discuss essential oils

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The editorial staff
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Essential oils

On June 26 and 27, 2024, Avignon will play host to some 200 essential oil experts at the Aromadays congress organized by Cosmed, a trade association representing French cosmetics companies with 1,030 member companies, and the HE Consortium, which brings together six companies supplying over 90 % of the French essential oil market.

"This edition takes place at a pivotal moment. The five-year derogation, allowing complex natural substances, including EOs, to be excluded from the MOCS classification rule, gives stakeholders precious but limited time to plan the research needed to present a robust new dossier to the authorities."reminds Cosmed.

For two days, the city of Avignon will become the stage for scientific and political exchanges in the field of essential oils, with the presence of European representatives. Jérémy Pinte, from DG Grow - European Commission, will shed light on the defense of essential oils during discussions on CLP. Benoît Biteau, MEP, will share the views of European parliamentarians. At the heart of the debate will also be the notion of essential use, pivotal in the revision of the Reach regulation.

On the scientific side, the first results of pioneering studies on the endocrine safety of essential oils will be previewed by Patrice Rat, Professor of Toxicology at Paris Descartes University.

A new, scientifically validated approach to aromatherapy will also be presented, exploring the benefits of essential oils as non-drug treatments from a holistic perspective.

Alongside regulatory and scientific issues, the essential oils sector is looking to improve its environmental footprint. A project initiated by the French Ministry of Ecological Transition, aimed at reducing emissions and sequestering carbon, is currently being evaluated by Cihef (Comité interprofessionnel des huiles essentielles françaises) under the name of the low-carbon label.

The conference program is available here.

Photo: Monika / Pixabay

A perfume pump made from recycled resin

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The editorial staff
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Aptar-Beauty-Color-Code-PCR-Fragrance-Pump-Full-Packaing-With-Cap-Green

Aptar Beauty, a global specialist in fragrance dispensing technologies, innovates with a new fragrance pump made from post-consumer resin (PCR). A first in the beauty market, according to the manufacturer.

Aptar Beauty's Color Code PCR perfume pump can include up to 67 %1 PCR Plus" resin. The product's CO2 emissions would be reduced by up to 39 % compared with the conventional resin version.2. 

By choosing Color Code PCR, rather than a conventional plastic equivalent, brands can reduce their Scope 3 carbon emissions, while benefiting from the PCR content "claim" for their communication. Using this pump can also enable them to avoid the "plastic tax" on non-recycled plastic packaging, depending on the country of production.

At the end of its life, the Color Code PCR pump can be recycled with the vial in the glass waste stream.

Made in Italy, this snap-in pump is fully customizable to suit any brand design, thanks to the versatility of plastic, which offers the possibility of a wide range of colors with a glossy finish.

As a member of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's Circular Economy 100 (CE100) network, Aptar has signed the New Plastics Economy Global Commitment. The use of recycled materials underlines the company's commitment to the circular economy. 

"Color Code PCR is an elegant step towards greater sustainability: it's our very first plastic fragrance pump to incorporate PCR. Not only does it add a touch of color and differentiation to fragrance launches, but it can also help brands achieve their goals and commitments for more circularity in packaging."says Giuseppe Barletta, Fragrance Lifestyle EMEA Platform Manager at Aptar Beauty.

1. In kg CO2e per 1,000 units of dispensing system only, consisting of mechanical PCR Plus resin (cover 100 % PCR Plus, trim 95 % PCR Plus, push-button and fastener 50 % PCR Plus) compared with 100 % conventional resin.

2. All emissions calculations were carried out for raw materials only, using Aptar's in-house Eco Design LCA tool. No third-party review was carried out.

Young generations face the challenge of sun prevention

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques Two long-haired women lie on the grass, their heads close together but facing in opposite directions. One, with blond hair in a white shirt, and the other, brunette in a black top, both have red lipstick and relaxed expressions, creating a serene moment reminiscent of a self-artistic draft.

Pierre Fabre Laboratories' patient and consumer relations department has unveiled new results from its Sun Assessment Family Experience (Safe) program. 

Launched in 2021, this program aims to better understand the reasons for poor compliance with sun prevention instructions. It is based on the "All" project, the largest international dermatology database. 

More than 50,000 people, from adult populations in 20 countries on five continents (representing 50 % of the world's population), responded to the questionnaires.

According to the study, a very large majority (95 %) of those surveyed understand the messages, but only one in five actually respects them. 

Only a quarter (24 %) of participants regularly apply sunscreen every two hours. Of those who don't, 76 % cite forgetfulness, the tediousness of application, or the cost of sunscreen products. 

Young people are the most exposed

"Despite repeated awareness campaigns and clear messages about the dangers of the sun, young people seem unaware of the consequences of their sun exposure. The new study2 , conducted as part of our Safe program, shows that more than half of the young people surveyed (54 %) expose themselves to the sun during the most dangerous hours, from 10am to 4pm."explains Dr Marketa Saint Aroman, Medical and Patient Centricity Director at Pierre Fabre.

According to the World Health Organization, skin cancer is one of the three most common cancers among young people.

Avoid sunburn and skin aging

Young people's motivations when it comes to sun protection are also a cause for concern. Although 53 % of them want to avoid sunburn, only 21 % consider skin cancer prevention a priority.

Accelerated skin aging is a concern for 40 % of the young people surveyed.

According to Pierre Fabre, it's essential to remember that skin cancer is a serious reality, and that two-thirds of cases are directly linked to excessive exposure to the sun.

Renewal of sunscreen application decreases with age

The prevalence of sunscreen application every two hours was highest in the 16-34 age group (27 %), but decreased progressively with age (25 % for 35-54 year-olds and 12 % for over-55s).

MySun Students Voices

On the basis of this study, Pierre Fabre Laboratories asked young adults to come up with new ways of communicating sun protection.

The "MySun Students Voices" project run in partnership with France Asso Cancer and students from the Iseg communications and e-Artsup visual design schools in Nantes (one of the regions most affected by melanoma) won an award at the Festival de la Communication in Deauville in March 2024.

Some 120 students finally took part, proposing new approaches to sun prevention. Their proposals include a vocabulary better adapted to their target audience, approaches that make some of them more responsible, such as the "sam" of anti-alcohol campaigns, educational challenges, and tools for cleverly monitoring their sun exposure. All their proposals have been shared with the France Asso Cancer et Peau association, which has already chosen to implement one of them on its own behalf.

"Melanoma is a visible cancer, and we can do something about it before we get to the heavy diagnoses that often leave families stunned. But to do that, we need to know the risk. This wonderful initiative finally enables us to communicate with young people using their words and their tools: a campaign for young people, built by young people! stresses Pascale Benaksas, president of the association.

Pierre Fabre teams have extended this approach to Europe, working with students in Spain and Germany. All their feedback is shared with the general public and patient associations on the www.mysun.skin page.

In partnership with Si Health, a company specializing in this field, and again in conjunction with students and several patient associations, an application will be set up this summer to monitor individual sun exposure.

A cleansing concentrate in an eco-designed tube

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The editorial staff
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Topialise SVR - Albéa Tubes

SVR relies on Albéa Tubes' technology for its new Topialyse cleanser. The solution combines a two-in-one opening and closing system with a lightweight tube incorporating recycled content.

Part of the Topialyse range, SVR's cleansing concentrate is a water-free dermatological cleanser specifically formulated for the whole family's dry, sensitive skin. The 100g tube represents the equivalent of 40 showers, or the use of a 400ml Topialyse cleansing gel.

To protect its new formula, the French brand has once again placed its trust in Albéa Tubes. It has selected the EcoFusion Top two-in-one opening and closing system in diameter 35, the most advanced weight-reduction solution on the market according to Albéa Tubes. 

This opening and closing system is combined with the PCR-Max tube and Thin Wall technology. Albéa Tubes reports that this lightweight solution incorporates 41 % of recycled plastics (PCR), enabling a total weight reduction of 55 % for the entire tube compared with standard tubes.

"Our aim is to offer consumers products in line with their sustainable habits, while providing maximum safety and effectiveness. This latest innovation is a perfect illustration of our vision of a responsible product, in terms of both packaging and formula".says Paul Chegri, SVR's Packaging Development Manager.

Aude Laclaire, Director of Sustainable Development at Albéa Tubes, adds: "Reducing the use of plastic and integrating recycled materials are key factors in reducing the environmental impact and cutting greenhouse gas emissions in our sector. We are proud of this new achievement with SVR, which contributes to furthering the circularity of packaging." 

Topialyse tubes are produced at Albéa Schesslitz in Germany.

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