As an expert in micro-organisms, Lallemand is exhibiting for the first time at in-Cosmetics Global, which runs in Paris until April 18, alongside Evolva by Lallemand, a recently acquired Swiss biotechnology company. Together, they will be presenting their ingredients for topical products.
The Canadian group Lallemand, specialized in the development, production and marketing of yeasts, bacteria and specialty ingredients, makes its entry into the world of cosmetics official with the presence at in-Cosmetics Paris of its "Personal Care" business unit, supplier and partner to the cosmetics industries.
Biobased ingredients
Lallemand manufactures, produces and markets bacteria, yeasts and their derivatives. The company is developing a range of pre-, pro- and post-biotics for the skin microbiota. Three of its products will be highlighted at In-Cosmetics Paris:
- Lallbiome 200 (Lactobacillus Helveticus HA-122 inactivated), a post-biotic ingredient that promotes the effet anti-senescence of cells, contributing to healthy aging,
- seven unique exopolysaccharides (EPS), including six sulfated EPS, derived from marine bacterial metabolites, designed to prevent the formation of pathogen biofilms (including in oral applications) and combat skin imperfections,
- Beauty Yeast Mask, a "second-skin" beauty mask whose film matrix consists mainly of micro-organisms with beta-glucan yeast fractions in particular. The result of a collaboration with Technature, this mask provides, according to its designers, moisturizing, soothing and anti-aging properties to improve complexion radiance while reducing redness and imperfections.
The range from Evolva, a Swiss-based biotech company which joined Lallemand at the end of 2023 as part of an acquisition, complements the specialist's expertise in micro-organisms. Specialized in the research, development and marketing of ingredients of natural origin, it has developed and patented yeast fermentation processes to produce ingredients for cosmetics, nutraceuticals and other fields such as perfumery and flavors.
At In-Cosmetics Paris, the company unveils Juneo, a trans-resveratrol derived from a yeast metabolite (S.Cerevisiae) for an anti-aging effect, as well as Larally, L-Arabinose for balanced skin and microbiota.
"Our company already supplies numerous customers in the food, brewing, health, animal nutrition and pharmaceutical sectors. For cosmetics, our ingredients represent an incomparable biosourced raw material that meets consumers' ever-increasing expectations to use products that are as natural as possible, with limited impact on resources and the environment, and with visible efficacy. Microorganisms represent a new avenue of innovation for the cosmetics industry, particularly in the field of skin microbiota. We are delighted to present them at in-Cosmetics Paris. "says Angélique Barreau, Marketing and Development Director for Lallemand Cosmetics, a division of Lallemand Personal Care.
Among the many exhibitors at In cosmetics 2024, Cargill Beauty answers our questions. Two new products are presented. Of course, we're talking naturalness and artificial intelligence!
2024 is a special year for the French Herbarom Group, which celebrated its 30th anniversary on January 25. Founded in 1994, it has been working alongside its customers for 30 years to create unique and specific ingredients, capturing the very essence of nature and plants.
At the in-Cosmetics trade show, Herbarom Laboratoire, a company specializing in the production, sourcing and development of plant extracts and formulas, presents new ingredients from French and local sources, and from upcycling. These ingredients serve to simplify formulations and promote more natural, minimalist formulas.
Herbarom Laboratoire offers a wide range of botanical solutions in a variety of variants, providing cosmetics professionals with a broad choice in terms of range depth (concentration, preservation, origin, certification...). The company is continuing its in-depth work on committed ingredients with three new ingredients to take the 360° exploration of a botanical species even further: flowers, fruits, skin, seeds...
Fruit blossom water
Building on its local presence, the company has forged a strategic, local partnership with ChestNut, a company specializing in the recovery of raw materials from arboriculture, to source flowers.
Herbarom Laboratoire introduces two new ingredients: apple blossom water and apricot blossom water.
Chestnut hydroglycerine extract
Herbarom Laboratoire is working with another upcycling resource: chestnut pericarp, to produce a chestnut hydroglycerine extract. The chestnuts, used in the first stage to make marrons glacés, are sourced locally (Ardèche) and close to Herbarom's extraction site in the Drôme. This approach limits the use of new natural resources.
Formulation of application products
Herbarom Laboratoire also intends to demonstrate its ability to understand market and brand issues, and to translate them into concrete product applications, to help its customers plan their use of these ingredients.
The company has developed a hand cream based on apple tree ingredients (apple tree floral water 10% prf, apple skin distilled water 22.3% CBIO PrF, CBIO virgin apple seed oil).
Apples - rich in polyphenols and vitamin C - are renowned for their moisturizing and antioxidant properties, and for accelerating tissue regeneration.
Herbarom has also created a hair mask based on apricot ingredients (apricot floral water 10% PrF, virgin apricot oil ABIO - France, apricot HG 10% PrH - 03).
Rich in vitamins, apricots have antioxidant properties.
At in-Cosmetics, Herboraom also presented a face cream based on Chestnut Ingredient (HG châtaigne drêche 5% CBIO PrF - Ardèche).
Chestnuts are rich in polyphenols, flavonoids and tannic acids, giving them antioxidant, revitalizing, anti-aging and anti-acne properties.
A tailor-made accompaniment
Herbarom supports its customers from project conception through to industrial implementation. Relying on its in-house experts, the company also offers tailor-made services throughout the value chain to support its customers' ingredient development projects.
Thanks to its expertise in food supplements, the group also supports its customers with nutricosmetics solutions.
The nutricosmetics dimension and in & out associations are key issues in the cosmetics sector. Herbarom is a true partner in these areas.
Givaudan Active Beauty recently launched Neuroglow, an active ingredient that mimics the beneficial properties of sunlight. The company is also the creator of Silk-iCare, a vegan silk forprotect and repair the skin.
A new ingredient for radiance and good humor
Manufactured by green fractionation from Persicaria tinctoria sourced in Provence, Neuroglow is an active ingredient designed to safely reproduce all the positive effects of the sun.
In addition to stimulating vitamin D production, sunlight is recognized for its positive impact on mood and energy, while contributing to a healthy appearance thanks to its desirable tanning effects.1. In a world where contemporary lifestyles lead us to spend more time indoors, Neuroglow provides an answer to a growing demand for the positive effects associated with sun exposure. Research shows that 80 % of American Generation Z consumers are looking for cosmetics that positively influence their mood.2.
Neuroglow mimics the beneficial properties of sunlight, stimulating melanin production (+126 %) and promoting the skin's release of feel-good molecules such as beta-endorphin (+ 43%), vitamin D (+ 345%) and oxytocin (+ 229%). By stimulating melanin production, Neuroglow prepares the skin for sun exposure, enabling a faster, healthier, more natural and better protected tan. It also improves general well-being and energy levels, while preventing potential inflammatory damage caused by the sun.
According to Givaudan Active Beauty, the results of the first clinical trial demonstrated a remarkable change in phototype in 76 % of participants in just seven days, moving from phototype II to phototype III, and of these, 40 % even moved to a darker phototype IV, compared with 0 % in the placebo group. In a second clinical trial involving volunteers experiencing seasonal mood changes due to lack of sunlight, Neuroglow reduced fatigue, increased feelings of affection and improved the "winter blues", with over 80 % of volunteers reporting a positive score.
"Our Green Fractionation R&D scientists have identified and optimized a plant-derived active ingredient offering an unprecedented solution to mimic all the positive effects of sunlight. Of 100% natural origin and Cosmos-compliant, Neuroglow prepares the skin for sun exposure, promotes a healthier tanning process and even protects the skin from the potential side effects of overexposure. The result? A healthy glow and enhanced well-being all year round, even when combined with SPF, highlighting the benefits of the sun."says Bénédicte Sennelier-Portet, R&D Green Fractionation Manager at Givaudan Active Beauty.
Biomimetic silk
Thanks to cutting-edge biotechnologies, Givaudan Active Beauty has also developed an optimized sequence of silk proteins, produced by fermentation, to create Silk-iCare - a pure biomimetic silk with remarkable film-forming properties, according to its creators.
Silk-iCare forms an invisible yet robust film on the skin, providing immediate benefits in terms of protection and recovery. On application, it creates a uniform 3D fibrillar network on the skin's surface, guaranteeing performance without residue or cracking on drying. Its unique hydrogel structure, derived from natural silk, offers a thixotropic characteristic, enabling smoother application and a breathable, non-sticky finish.
Givaudan Active Beauty claims that Silk-iCare's effectiveness is immediate, offering anti-pollution and skin recovery benefits. Thanks to its physical mode of action, Silk-iCare forms a protective barrier that eliminates over 96 % of pollution particles.
The company reports that clinical studies have demonstrated a significant seven-fold reduction in pore size, as early as 15 minutes after application. Over time, Silk-iCare's restorative properties trigger a twofold reduction in inflammatory flare-ups, perfecting the skin.
"We are delighted to introduce Silk-iCare, the pioneering vegan silk veil designed to protect and repair skin.comments Romain Reynaud, Research & Development Manager. With its biomimetic structure, Silk-iCare is a remarkable skin perfector, thanks to its exceptional film-forming properties. Acting like an invisible bandage, Silk-iCare offers all-in-one anti-pollution, rapid repair and make-up-fixing benefits. "
Givaudan Active Beauty presents its new ingredients and associated marketing concepts (S3D® BlissFul Vibes and S3D Wonder Veil) at In-Cosmetics Global, which runs in Paris until April 18. Its digital platform uxbeauty.givaudan.com, dedicated to cosmetic ingredients, also provides further information.
1. Mead N. Environ Health Perspect, 2008 May; 116(5):A197)
French company Imerys, a global supplier of specialty mineral solutions for industry, is presenting its portfolio of sustainable solutions for cosmetics formulators at in-Cosmetics Global (Paris, April 16-18, 2024), including two new products.
Consumers now want to buy personal care products formulated with natural and organic ingredients from sources that are both transparent and sustainable. What's more, consumers and formulators alike are looking to simplify their beauty routines and products through a "less is more" approach that favors simple all-in-one solutions containing fewer - and less controversial - ingredients that, while effective, also perform multiple functions.
At in-Cosmetics Global, Imerys is exhibiting its range of mineral solutions derived from ground calcium carbonate, diatomaceous earth, kaolin, mica, perlite and talc, designed to help cosmetics formulators meet the evolving needs of the personal care industry and the preferences of today's consumers.
New products
New products unveiled in Paris include make-up and hand-wash products.
Cosmos-certified, ImerCare 400D is a new mattifying agent for lipsticks, designed as a natural 100 % alternative to synthetic silica. Based on microporous diatomaceous earth, ImerCare 400D demonstrates superior absorption according to Imerys, offering a natural mattifying effect in lipsticks, as well as good sensory properties and thermal stability.
ImerCare SandyScrub provides gentle exfoliation in hand soaps used in industrial environments such as garages and workshops. ImerCare SandyScrub, volcanic rock for industrial hand scrubs, is produced from natural volcanic rock, and is backed by a secure supply chain and microbiological compliance.
Pioneer solutions
Imerys is also presenting "Pioneer" products for cosmetic applications at in-Cosmetics. Gentle on the skin, they are made from ingredients of natural origin, durable and transparent.
● ImerCare Matte is a Cosmos-certified white kaolin solution for achieving a superior, nude matte effect in gels and creams, liquid foundations and pressed powders. ImerCare Matte kaolin is a natural 100 % alternative to synthetic mattifying agents such as nylon and polyethylene powders and polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA).
● Cosmos-certified, ImerCare 6M is a multifunctional technical mica solution for providing superior cohesion as well as transparency and luminosity in pressed powders. ImerCare 6M comes from Imerys' Breton site in Ploemeur (France). The company, which owns the site, is able to guarantee the product's transparency and complete traceability within the EU, thus meeting the demand for responsible sourcing of ingredients.
● ImerCare 400D, a Cosmos-certified microporous diatomaceous earth, is a highly effective absorption agent in deodorants and antiperspirants. ImerCare 400D meets the growing demand for aluminum-salt-free deodorant formulations that both absorb sweat and control body odor while being gentle on the skin.
● ImerCare Blur is a patented, Cosmos-certified, calcium carbonate-based product of natural origin, specifically designed to confer both a mattifying and a soft focus effect in powders and anhydrous products. ImerCare Blur has been designed as a natural alternative to synthetic ingredients such as synthetic silica, nylon and PMMA used to mattify cosmetics.
● ImerCare P-Scrub is a technical perlite, derived from natural volcanic rocks, designed as an effective ecological alternative to the polymer microbeads used in face and body scrubs. The ImerCare P-Scrub range is available in a wide range of particle sizes, designed to provide just the right exfoliating effect in face, body and foot scrubs, and anti-dandruff shampoos. "This range is perfectly in line with market demand and regulatory requirements for plastic-free cosmetics.says Imerys.
Introduced in 2021, the Pioneer rating is an integral part of Imerys' internal SustainAgility Solutions Assessment (SSA) program, which is used to measure the social and environmental footprint of its products from birth to end of life. The SSA is based on a "robust and standardized Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) method that provides objective, reliable and specific data." It enables customers to make informed choices when selecting Imerys products.
At in-cosmetics Global 2024, held in Paris from April 16 to 18, Clariant is showcasing CycloRetin, a natural active ingredient for skin care. Present in the prince of ginseng (Pseudostellaria heterophylla) - a plant prized in Chinese medicine for its many benefits, from treating fatigue to boosting vitality - CycloRetin activates the benefits of retinol while being naturally gentle.
CycloRetin's heterophyllin B molecule is a cyclic peptide that boosts skin matrix production, improving collagen and reducing the signs of aging. With efficacy comparable to that of retinol and bakuchiol, CycloRetin promotes youthful-looking skin. Water-soluble and requiring minimal concentrations, the active ingredient is environmentally friendly. Two formulas containing this ingredient - Firming Mask and Mask Mist - will be presented at in-Cosmetics 2024.
"While exploring the benefits of cyclic peptides in our laboratory, we discovered the exceptional potential of the prince of ginseng to restart the skin matrix production cycle. Highly effective, even in low concentrations, peptides play a crucial role in maintaining the appearance of youthful skin."explains Julie Droux, Global Technical Marketing Manager for Clariant Actives and Natural Origins.
In north-west France, Bretagne has always been a seawardlooking region with its 2,730km coastline - the longest in the country. It has developed a strong cosmetics industry which draws on its long tradition of thalassotherapy and on its use of marine and plant resources. The regional businesses featured in this article are showcases of this innovative sector.
Turning resources into finished products
The region's cosmetics industry currently has around 170 businesses operating across the whole value chain: from the recovery of raw materials, testing and formulation through to packaging. Bretagne is France's top region for marine cosmetics and one of the world's key providers of marine ingredients.
Discover the directory of players in the cosmetics sector in Bretagne here.
A strong training and research network
Bretagne enjoys a dense network of scientists and students which supports the industry in its innovation. For example, the main marine biotech research teams are based there. A wide range of courses up to doctorate level are available throughout the region, covering all professions: production of raw resources, formulation, and aesthetic care to R&D in chemistry or biotechnology.
A whole region pulling together
In Bretagne, networks are strong and many. Public and private stakeholders come together to promote its capabilities and to innovate in formulation, packaging, marine bio-resources and tests. To support this drive, the Regional Council has set out priorities in its roadmap which include the development of an innovative cosmetics sector while addressing the digital transition and ecology.
Public and private stakeholders have ample opportunity to share and develop their insights and knowledge, by jointly attending international trade fairs or at events organised in Bretagne.
Biotech Santé Bretagne, your innovation support partner
As a technology innovation center and with its expertise in cosmetic ingredients, Biotech Santé Bretagne supports businesses from the cosmetics industry in their efforts to innovate. It is partner in national associations and cosmetics clusters (Cosmed, Cosmetic Valley...), and helps project developers in their cosmetics research: bio-sourced packaging, sustainable active ingredients, molecular screening, rheology etc.
Featuring some regional businesses that are driving cosmetics innovation
AGRIMER - Is seaweed the answer to youthful-looking skin?
Leader in the harvesting and development of marine resources, AGRIMER is the only cosmetic laboratory officially recognized by the French state (Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant) thanks to its unique know-how in the development of Breton seaweed. AGRIMER laboratories are committed to sustainable innovation. AGRIMER has developed a new active ingredient: ALGAFILLER®. This super-powerful active ingredient is derived from a self-regenerating macro-alga sourced in Brittany. With a coenocytic structure made up of a single giant cell, it has an exceptio¬nal capacity for healing and infinite regeneration.
This 100% natural ingredient is the result of AGRIMER's patented upcycling extraction process, which promotes the solubilization and bioavailability of the algae's active fractions. The benefits of ALGAFILLER® have been proven through in vitro and in vivo tests: - Reduce crow's feet wrinkles depth by 12.3% - Increase cheek volume by 6% - Reduce depth of the nasolabial fold by 22.2% - Increase dermal density by +17.3% - Increase skin firmness by +15.2% Learn more about AGRIMER
BERTIN BRETAGNE - Produce your ingredients from pilot scale to industrial scale
Bertin Bretagne, created in 2020 in Vannes (Britany-France), is proposing innovating process in green ex¬traction, refinery and purification of vegetable biomass. We are equipped with an R&D laboratory to develop customer project and with larger machines to produce at larger scales (10kg up to 50t). We provide you customized services in: 1/ Biomass Extraction Solvent used: Water/ EtOh / Ethyl Acetate / Acetone / Ecoxtract (Hexane alternative) 2/ Physical refining Deodorization / Discoloration Removal of residual solvent traces Removal of pesticide contaminants Winterisation: oil dewaxing Reduction of PV or FFA 3/ Extract Purification and concentration Concentration and purification of molecule fractions using Molecular Distillation (e.g. Separation of unsaponifiable molecules of virgin oils) 4/ Green Chemical process Ethyl trans-esterification, saponification, Liquid/liquid separation Our factory quality standard is FSSC22000/ISO9001 and is certified by ECOCERT as Cosmos Toll Manufacturer. Learn more about BERTIN BRETAGNE
GLOBAL BEAUTY CONSULTING - Your expert for cosmetic formula development project
GBC, is a cosmetic formulation laboratory located in Quimper. Since 2017, we have been supporting our customers in their cosmetic formula development projects: tailor-made work, from specifications to industrialization. Our mastery of formulation techniques enables us to develop a wide range of formulations for all types of applications. GBC is a team of experts ready to listen to your needs, whose foundations are expertise and quality, adaptability and openness to the world of cosmetics, and more globally to the world around us, whose interests we also protect to the best of our ability.
Our latest innovation: Gel aux éclats de karité, the freshness of a gel, the comfort and richness of shea thanks to a lipid phase encapsulation technology, offers a unique texture for a complete skincare product: the creation of this wax/ butter network enables lipophilic active ingredients to be encapsulated; the gelled phase can also contain water-soluble active ingredients. The aim was to create a "macroencapsulation" that could be industrialized on standard production machines, and thus create a wax/butter network enabling lipophilic active ingredients to be encapsulated without any specific technology. Learn more about GLOBAL BEAUTY CONSULTING
LESSONIA - Alter-powders: the range of functional and plant ingredients in powder, as alternative to unwanted cosmetic ingredients in formulations
Since 2002, LESSONIA's core business and expertise has been the design and manufacture of cosmetic ingredients.
At a time when environmental awareness is growing and consumers want to avoid using cosmetic products containing unwanted ingredients, LESSONIA offers new perspectives by proposing a new range of functional ingredients. These plant-based ingredients are technical alternatives to unwanted ingredients. For example, they offer alternatives to synthetic polymers, talc, surfactants and modified starches. To develop and manufacture this range, LESSONIA is capitalizing on its industrial tools for transforming plantbased powders and on its formulation expertise. This is a strategic shift away from its core business of manufacturing exfoliating particles and micronised plant powders. The range is the result of an R&D project aimed at identifying the potential cosmetic applications of many white and colorless plant raw materials. One of the main objectives of this development was to offer plant-based solutions that would not have any organoleptic impact on the formulas. His ALTER-POWDERS range contains 6 ingredients whose functions are to emulsify, thicken, gel... Learn more about LESSONIA
For 30 years, OCEALYS has supported many cosmetic brands in the creation and development of their full skin care ranges. From small emerging brands to large cosmetic groups, the laboratory is recognized for its expertise, creativity, innovative strength, ethics and sensoriality.
Biotechnologies and Nature at the service of cosmetics With its Biomolenez R&D center specializing in tailor-made marine active ingredients and plants valorization, OCEALYS offers unique support in the 360° creation of cosmetic ranges (liquid or solid). The laboratory ensures permanent regulatory monitoring and collaborations with numerous scientific centers.
Organic marine and plant resources in the spotlight OCEALYS promotes marine resources (algae, clays, mother waters, micro algae, etc.) sourced in the most beautiful areas of the Iroise, Molène, Iceland and Corsica marine parks. Plant and cosmopolitan resources are also its strong point: Norman apples, essential oils and endemic plants from Corsica or Provence, turmeric from Reunion Island, Malagasy ravelana butter... Learn more about OCEALYS here and here
ODYCEA - Your supplier of active ingredients led by nature explorers
We draw our inspiration from the heart of plant intelligence by unlocking the secrets of living organisms and of this mysterious nature at the roots of life. The natural substances identified have new and innovative properties or original mechanisms of action. Their effectiveness is scientifically proven. This innovation is intended for the Research and Development departments of french and international cosmetic laboratories.
Odycea is launching Spring Snow, as neuro-soothing and anti-spot shield. It is a unique combination of bioactive molecules from the flowers of wild Blackthorn with synergistic actions that targets the "skin-brain" axis. It meets the needs of skin challenged by the stresses of daily life and modern living. Through its multiple properties, Spring Snow creates a real virtuous circle. It strengthens the barrier function and improves hydration. It inhibits neurogenic inflammation and hypersensitivity of cutaneous nerve fibers. It finally prevents hyperpigmentation induced by stress such as pollution. Learn more about ODYCEA
PREVOST LABORATORY CONCEPT - Transforming & Transformative Gel
Adapting to developments and keeping up with trends is essential, but maintaining efficiency is a priority. For over 30 years, Prévost Laboratory Concept has been creating formulas (gel, oil, cream, balm, pomade, mist, lotion, serum and many others) with high-performance active ingredients. Our expertise in transforming gels means we can introduce active ingredients in objectivised percentages for immediate action and undeniable effectiveness.
Transformation gel technology combines action on application with action after rinsing. The combination of ACB Fruit Mix from Active Concepts and Symrise's SymRebootTM L19 in this gel provides gentle exfoliation while preserving skin hydration. ACB Fruit Mix contains Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), which have a proven track record of improving hydration and stimulating production of the skin's structural components, with a reverse action on skin atrophy. SymRebootTM L19 comes from biotic technology. It combines protective actions against pollution, promotes antimicrobial peptides and improves hydration by reducing skin dryness. Learn more about PREVOST LABORATORY CONCEPT
SCILICIUM OMICSKIN - Expertise in cost-effective sequencing applied to cosmetics
SciLicium is a bioinformatics CRO supporting industry and academia in analysing omics data. Its innovation for the cosmetics industry is called OmicSkin, which offers expertise in cost-effective sequencing applied to cosmetics.
OmicSkin is paving the way for an era of responsible innovation in cosmetics. Our cutting-edge service, based on transcriptomics and artificial intelligence, evaluates the molecular effects of products on skin discs, providing a detailed understanding of the mechanisms of action. Saving valuable time and resources, OmicSkin enables rapid identification of the most promising formulations. In combination with predictive models, it is possible to assess the irritant, inflammatory or sensitizing potential of a product and thus prioritise testing. It goes beyond that. It responds to growing ethical concerns and stringent regulatory standards by significantly reducing animal testing. Learn more about SCILICIUM OMICSKIN
SurfactGreen is a French start-up specialized in the research, development and production of high-performing, bio-based surfactants, offering an eco-friendlier alternative to petroleum-based products like BTAC or CTAC. CosmeGreen, their line of upcycled conditioning agents are developed using the Principles of Green Chemistry. CosmeGreen provides superior softness and smoothness to hair and skin while being readily biodegradable. You can create a wide range of textures, solids, emulsions, masks, scrubs, balms... In 2023, SurfactGreen presented the Gliss & Green HydraMask, and was awarded with the 3rd prize of the formulation contest of SFC at Cosmet'Agora 2023.
The Gliss & Green HydraMask is a 99.9% natural glycerin mask which will bring hydration, radiance and softness to the skin. It is a natural wave that glides over your skin, providing a unique touch thanks to our innovative cationic biobased conditioning agent. An incomparable sensoriality with a zest of vitamin C, for an instant hydration and radiance! Moreover, the HydraMask formulation process is very simple. Learn more about SURFACTGREEN
TECHNATURE - Technature's WoW Powders: Ethical, Convenient, and Innovative!
Our powders are making waves in the beauty world. They're eco-friendly, portable, and preservative-free, aligning perfectly with the growing environmental concerns of consu¬-mers. Ideal for those seeking novel beauty rituals, they offer a unique product experience. But don't be fooled, these formulas are more than just practical; they're crafted with expertise, whether in formulation or process control. Once rehydrated, they unveil a variety of textures (gel, cream, mousse, etc.) and cater to diverse skincare needs. Powders have always been at the heart of Technature. From masks to scrubs, cleansers, and hygiene pro¬ducts, our powder formulations are extensive. And the best part? We're constantly exploring new possibilities.
Imagine a powder that transforms into a cream without rehydration-our latest innovation brings this dream to life. It offers a guaranteed Wow effect and a personalized formula (active ingredients, applications, color, etc.). There is no doubt, powders can always surprise us and have a bright future ahead of them. Learn more about TECHNATURE
Don't miss the next events in Brittany
POLYMERIXa leading event on innovative solutions based on bio-based polymers From 26 to 28 June 2024 in Rennes (France)
COSM'INGa leading event for cosmetic ingredients and biotechnology From 10 to 13 June 2025 in Saint-Malo (France)
At the in-Cosmetics Global trade show, to be held in Paris from April 16 to 18, 2024, the Solabia group is unveiling its new ingredient for sensitive skin prone to atopy. Serenibiome is a patented double active based on flocculosin. This innovative glycolipid is obtained by biofermentation of Pseudozyma flocculosa and was inspired by this epiphytic fungus and the holobiont concept.
Pseudozyma flocculosa is an epiphytic fungus that acts as a biocontrol agent by maintaining a healthy ecological niche for its host plant. Pseudozyma flocculosa has been identified on plant leaves infected by downy mildew, and is known to prevent the colonization of phytopathogens by releasing a specific extracellular glycolipid with powerful properties: flocculosin. Serenibiome's activity on an unbalanced microbiome and weakened skin is bioinspired by Pseudozyma flocculosa and its interactions with its plant host. Thanks to this powerful glycolipid, Serenibiome protects the skin holobiont.
A glycolipid from biotechnology
Backed by 30 years of expertise in biotechnology, the Solabia group has succeeded in developing an industrial process that mimics the natural production of flocculosin by Pseudozyma flocculosa. Serenibiome is the culmination of over eight years of R&D to develop an optimized bioguided fermentation process that induces the metabolic pathway of the fungus.
This white biotechnology process meets high CSR standards thanks to water and energy management, a low-temperature process and low carbon emissions, and results in high-purity flocculosin, according to Sloabia.
Serenibiome is a 100 % natural active ingredient, Cosmos-approved, preservative-free, eco-designed and easily biodegradable, suitable for sensitive skin prone to atopy.
Proven effectiveness
"Applied to skin health, Serenibiome has demonstrated exceptional and unmatched in vitro efficacy in bioselectively targeting the growth of Staphylococcus aureus without impacting the commensal population of Staphylococcus epidermidis "says Solabia.
S. aureus is the prevalent opportunistic bacterium implicated in the dysbiosis of the microbiome in atopy-prone skin, and recent studies have also shown its involvement in neurogenic inflammation, inducing itching and scratching by stimulating pruriceptors in sensory neurons. According to the company, preclinical studies have demonstrated the efficacy of Serenibiome on the drivers of the itch-scratch vicious circle, and this efficacy has been clinically confirmed by a metagenomic study with a correlated reduction in Scorad.
"Serenibiome significantly improves the skin condition of children with mild to moderate atopic dermatitis after 28 days, calms neurogenic inflammation, helps limit pro-inflammatory signaling, enhances wellness neurotransmitters and supports the skin barrier."adds Solabia.
At In-Cosmetics Global 2024, to be held in Paris from April 16 to 18, Spanish company LipoTrue will present Frag-Brillin remastered, a biomimetic fibrillin fragment that promotes skin remodeling. Frag-Brillin is the latest addition to the Fragments Remastered range - a new range of wild plant protein fragments used as biofactors thanks to vertical farming - which already includes two biomimetic collagen fragments, Col-4-frag remastered and Col-frag remastered.
Skin loses its firmness and suppleness over time. Frag-Brillin remastered extends the concept of skin flexibility not only by strengthening elastic fibers, but also by improving cellular elasticity and reinforcing the dermal structure, thus improving the skin's biomechanical qualities.
LipoTrue will also present SP[AI]3™, a peptide - optimized by artificial intelligence - designed to improve the appearance of blemishes and imperfections on acne-prone skin.
This unique peptide is obtained in silico by AI from thousands of candidates, with optimal binding and specificity, to modulate three key elements: sebum, pore and inflammation. This triple approach promotes a decrease in sebum synthesis and quantity, as well as a reduction in pore size and clogging, while demonstrating a reduction in inflammation induced by C. acnesto ultimately improve the appearance of blemishes and imperfections for purified skin.
Between 2022 and 2023, around a third of consumers (31.3% ) said they had purchased at least one cosmetic product online. Given the popularity of online purchases, the novelty and use of new technologies represent an attraction that players in the cosmetics world can capitalize on.
In a bid to improve its customers' online shopping experience, Nars Cosmetics, a French company specializing in cosmetics and skincare, has decided to capitalize on virtual trials based on artificial intelligence (AI) and augmented reality (AR); technologies that can accurately and realistically reproduce the results obtained when applying make-up products. " Even as our in-store and online sales continued to grow, we knew it was essential to add AI/RA virtual trial experiences."says Kristy Peschko, Executive Director of Global Omni Channel Marketing, CRM & Loyalty at Nars Cosmetics,
Since 2019, Nars has been using AI and AR technologies from AI and AR solutions provider Perfect Corp. to offer virtual trial experiences on 700 of its products. Continuing this collaboration, the company has integrated Perfect Corp. technology into its Nars Matchmaker solution, a virtual shade finder. This online simulator helps consumers choose the right shade to match their skin tone, with realistic textures comparable to the results of a professional make-up artist. "Consumers turn to Nars when they're looking for something new, for the best beauty products and technologies. Offering them such realistic virtual trials enables them to see exactly how the products will fit them. So they feel confident when they press the "buy" button".says Kristy Peschko.
Perfect Corp. technologies are also used by Nars as part of its online store, to enable customers to discover products in greater detail and learn more about their ingredients.
From a results point of view, after launching the Matchmaker virtual Shade Finder tool, Nars teams claim to have observed a 300 % increase in conversions, testifying to consumer interest in the realism of the virtual trial.
"Consumers see exactly how a foundation or lipstick looks on their face. This makes them want to buy, and reinforces their decision.says Kristy Peschko. According to Nars, the virtual trial gives consumers confidence in their purchases, hence the 10% growth in average basket size for foundation and other make-up purchases.
Kristy Peschko reports that consumers looking for lip products try out an average of 27 colors thanks to the virtual trial. They have the opportunity to be immersed and discover more products than they would in-store, while benefiting from the realism offered by technology.
"Perfect Corp. comes up with ideas we hadn't even considered yet.explains Kristy Peschko. They precede trends and make many things possible, enabling us to stay one step ahead of digital innovations and keep moving forward while evolving the experiences we offer consumers around the world."
"We are delighted with this collaboration with Nars, which illustrates our commitment to offering an immersive and precise customer experience. Together, we are redefining the online beauty experience, combining innovation and customer satisfaction in a constantly evolving market, and enabling Nars to detect and pre-empt trends."says Sylvain Duteil, VP Business Development Europe at Perfect Corp.
