Crodarom, the French subsidiary of the Croda Group, which produces a wide range of innovative botanical extracts for cosmetics and industrial applications, has just launched Phytessence French Rose EC, a rose flower extract, Rosa gallicawhich reinforces the cutaneous barrier by maintaining skin hydration.

A fundamental pillar of our skin care routine, moisturizing is the first beauty gesture to adopt in every season. In response to climate change and temperature variations, a new technique is emerging: skin-flooding, which involves layering moisturizing cosmetics to lock in moisture and hydrate the epidermis deeply and for a long time. Hydrated skin is more supple and luminous, less prone to tightness and protected from cellular aging. The hydrolipidic film made up of sebum reinforces the skin barrier and limits water loss. Its composition varies according to age, state of health, season and environment. Often richer in sebum during adolescence, this film becomes less present and less effective with age. It is therefore essential to regulate and balance it. 

Obtained by ultrasonic extraction of roses Rosa gallica from French organic farming in glycerine and water (Eco-sound technology), Phytessence French Rose EC has moisturizing and protective properties.

The active ingredient moisturizes the skin and visually improves its quality, regulates sebocyte activity and protects lipid compounds from external aggression, and protects the skin from premature aging by reducing the expression of inflammatory mediators and the glycation phenomenon. 

According to the tests carried out :

• Phytessence French Rose EC cream moisturizes the skin by a statistically significant 5 % compared to the placebo cream. Volunteers confirmed that the cream visually improved skin quality via a questionnaire administered 28 days after application versus placebo. 
• Phytessence French Rose EC reduces lipid synthesis in sebocytes by 61 %.
• Phytessence French Rose EC reduces UVA-induced lipoperoxidation of liposome phospholipids by 70 %. The active ingredient regulates sebocyte activity and protects lipid compounds from external aggression. Its properties are ideal for maintaining skin homeostasis.
• Phytessence French Rose EC reduces PGE synthesis₂ of 50 % and IL6 of 41 % after UVB exposure.
• Phytessence French Rose EC at 3 % reduces glycation by 89 %.

Application patent pending.

Several applications are possible:
- Natural moisturizing serum
- Moisturizing facial mist
- Fresh awakening gel
- Tinted Perfecting Care
- Velvety moisturizing body care

Phytessence French Rose EC is a 100 % extract of natural origin according to ISO16128, preservative-free, Cosmos-certified, quantified in flavonoids.

Enriched with alfalfa galactomannans, Inclusium is, according to Silab, a multifunctional natural active ingredient that enhances the beauty of all skin types. Its efficacy has been demonstrated on various panels, and its cosmetic benefits, visible from as early as seven days, meet consumers' universal expectations in terms of skin care.  

Responding to skin's specific needs with cross-disciplinary benefits 

In order to sketch the face of universal beauty, Silab has surveyed consumers' main skin characteristics according to ethnicity, gender and age. Three expectations stand out:   

• beautiful skin quality, characterized by cutaneous hydration and refined skin texture for a smoothed micro-relief; 
• an even, radiant complexion, free from the blemishes associated with post-inflammatory scarring and skin aging; 
• reduced signs of aging, with firmer skin and smoother wrinkles.

Proven effectiveness from cell to skin 

The combination of Silab's expertise in tissue engineering and transcriptomics has enabled us to investigate the spectrum of Inclusium's activities on the biological pathways essential to epidermal and dermal functionality. Thanks to a large-scale exploratory study, it was established that Inclusium :

• stimulates epidermal functions by modulating biological pathways linked to the physical and hydric barrier, the immune barrier and the anchoring of the epidermis to the dermis;
• reinforces dermal matrix quality by increasing collagen I synthesis and limiting MMP-1 synthesis.

In addition, five clinical studies were specifically conducted to demonstrate the performance of Inclusium. Evaluated on mixed, young and mature, Caucasian, Asian, Latin American and African-American panels, this active ingredient delivers a hydra-smoothing, complexion-perfecting and anti-wrinkle effect as early as seven days after application. 

Alfalfa, a herbaceous plant with many virtues

To develop the Inclusium active ingredient, enriched with galactomannans, Silab used the seeds of alfalfa, a plant native to Asia and cultivated throughout the world for thousands of years for its nutritional qualities and medicinal properties. 

Selected certified organic farms in France guarantee a secure, traceable supply.   

Inclusium is a patented active ingredient, recommended at a dose of 0.5 to 2.5%. Available in aqueous solution, it is easy to formulate. It complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 99.2 % (ISO 16128). It complies with international cosmetics regulations (Europe, USA, China, Japan, etc.).

Algaktiv Collage is made from plant collagen peptides and spermidine derived from a resilient extremophilic microalgae, Hematococcus pluvialis. This microalgae, which thrives in Iceland's harshest environments, has the ability to modify its own biochemistry when subjected to stress, producing astaxanthin, a red nutraceutical antioxidant.

Stressed microalgae 

In Iceland, the purest and longest-lasting astaxanthin is obtained from the cultivation ofHematococcus pluvialis in closed photobioreactors powered by renewable 100 % geothermal energy. Astaxanthin, an oil-soluble nutraceutical, is extracted from stressed microalgae, leaving behind a water-soluble fraction that was previously considered a waste product.

The company has developed an innovative process for recyclingHematococcus pluvialis depleted in astaxanthin, giving them new life in the form of Algaktiv Collage.

Algaktiv Collage harnesses the power of upcycled plant peptides, standardized in glycine, proline and hydroxyproline. These peptides serve as building blocks for the production of native collagen, promoting skin firmness and elasticity. 

Algaktiv Collage also contains spermidine, a natural activator of skin collagen synthesis, further enhancing its rejuvenating effects.

"At Algaktiv, we're driven by a passion for developing high-performance skincare solutions that deliver outstanding results while prioritizing sustainability, says Jordi Ayats, Director of Product Development. Algaktiv Collage represents the culmination of our deep understanding of skin biology and the evolving needs of consumers worldwide."

"Consumers are increasingly looking for natural, sustainable alternatives that deliver exceptional results. Algaktiv Collage, with its unique composition rich in plant collagen peptides and polyamine, meets this demand by harnessing the power of microalgae collagen amino acids to restore skin architecture and improve overall health."says Alexandre Lapeyre, Marketing Director.

The tests in vitro and clinical evaluations

The efficacy of Algaktiv Collage has been evaluated in clinical and in vitro studies.

In vitro tests show that Algaktiv Collage stimulates the production of native collagen in the dermis, resulting in an increase of 27.96 % at 0.5 % and 40.37 % at 1 %.

Algaktiv Collage offers hydration benefits comparable to those of hyaluronic acid, with a significant increase from 34 % to 0.5 %. The combination of 0.5 % hyaluronic acid and 0.5 % Algaktiv Collage increases hydration by almost 60 %.

Clinical evaluations of Algaktiv Collage also highlight its transformative effects on the skin.

A long-term study conducted with Algaktiv Collage 1% revealed a performance in restructuring the skin from within and forming the 3D matrix. After seven days, firmness and plumping were multiplied by 2.2 and 3.4 respectively, while hydration was multiplied by three after 28 days. Wrinkle reduction was visually significant.

A study conducted at 2 % demonstrated Algaktiv Collage's ability to hydrate throughout the day. Just one hour after application, hydration levels increased by almost 30 % compared with 7 % for a placebo. This superior performance was maintained for 24 hours.

The third clinical evaluation, carried out with Algaktiv Collage dosed at 3%, showed a notable 35 % increase in hydration after just 10 minutes, a significant improvement over placebo. Internal skin analysis showed intense, long-lasting hydration for up to 24 hours. The amino acid's rapid ability to bind to key skin elements, as hyaluronic acid does, and its ability to remodel the internal structure, helped reduce wrinkles by 14% after just 10 minutes.

Certified by Cosmos, Algaktiv Collage is derived from recycled microalgae grown in Iceland, is GMO-free and registered in China. It stands out for its high stability and ease of formulation, all toxicological assessments having been successfully completed.

"Our commitment to sustainable development goes beyond our product, adds Alexandre Lapeyre. We have developed a unique process for recycling microalgae. Haematococcus pluvialisThis reduces our environmental footprint and helps preserve marine resources.