French cosmetics ingredients manufacturer Gattefossé is stepping up the study of waste products to produce high-quality bioactives, and is offering two ingredients made from the untapped leaves of the sea buckthorn tree.
In Gattefossé's CSR roadmap, Gatt'Up&Act, responsible waste management, is a strategic issue.
"In addition to implementing a waste management system, we also integrate upcycling into our approach to innovation. Waste recovery is fully integrated from the earliest stages of development. This approach has intensified in recent years. A number of current projects use upcycling as a lever to create sustainable, responsible and efficient products, explains Laurent Schubnel, CSR Manager for the Gattefossé Group.
With this in mind, the company decided to exploit the full potential of sea buckthorn leaves (Hippophae rhamnoides), hitherto untapped. Two ingredients have emerged from this research: Eyeglorius, launched in 2024, and Noxifense, a new active ingredient.
A highly nutritious and versatile plant
Sea buckthorn boasts an abundance of phenolic acids, lipophilic compounds, vitamins and organic acids, giving the plant real biological potential.
The Gattefossé research team turned its attention to the leaves of this shrub. Work to secure the plant's supply led the company to Quebec, Canada, to a family orchard dedicated to growing it organically and processing its berries into food products. In September, when the fruit branches are cut off by hand, enabling the trees to be pruned, Gattefossé recovers the leaves once separated from the fruit, which are then transformed into juice, sorbet or jam.
One plant, two bioactives
Following the success of Eyeglorius - a liposoluble anti-fatigue active ingredient obtained by CO2 supercritical and launched in 2024 - Gattefossé announces the upcoming commercial launch of Noxifense.
This new active ingredient provides a comprehensive approach to skin sensitivity, by reinforcing the skin's defense mechanisms against environmental stress. It is based on the emerging theory of "oxi-inflammation", the harmful interaction between oxidative stress and inflammation. Its soothing effects are achieved through a process that targets specific flavonoid families, renowned for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Noxifense is currently being previewed at the PCHI trade show in China, from February 19 to 21, 2025.
