Gattefosséa supplier of specialty ingredients and formulation solutions for the health and beauty industries, and Ambiotisa research and services company specializing in the innovative evaluation of active ingredients and formulations on the skin, have pooled their scientific expertise to study the role of pro-resolving lipids in skin health, a mechanism that has been little explored until now. The result: innovative cosmetic solutions based on an integrative approach to skin ageing.
Towards a better understanding of skin aging
Long perceived as a simple consequence of the passage of time and external aggression, the
For a long time, skin aging was perceived as a simple consequence of the passage of time and external aggression. Today, it is recognized that it reveals a deep, silent imbalance that weakens the skin's natural defense and regeneration capacities. The result is the appearance of visible signs such as wrinkles, loss of firmness and sagging tissue.
The clinical manifestations of aged skin are well described. However, the molecular and cellular deregulations that occur mean that skin aging is still a poorly understood process.
To maintain skin vitality and age well, cosmetics target the synthesis of dermal extracellular matrix proteins such as collagen and elastin. According to Gattefossé and Ambiotis, considering new, more integrative approaches, capable of better reflecting the biological complexity found in the skin, will enable us to imagine new anti-aging solutions.
Bioactive lipids at the heart of resolution mechanisms
In this context, Gattefossé and Ambiotis have studied the role of pro-resolving lipids contained in the secretome, in contact with macrophages (true sentinels of the immune system) and fibroblasts (architect cells of the dermal extracellular matrix).
Gattefossé and Ambiotis have characterized and modeled the alterations in pro-resolving lipids found in aged skin, demonstrating that these modifications disrupt interactions between macrophages and dermal fibroblasts.
The result is aberrant activation of dermal fibroblasts, which adopt a pro-inflammatory and pro-degradative phenotype characterized by increased secretion of matrix metalloproteinases.
An integrative approach to ageing for tomorrow's care
This research opens up new prospects for the design and formulation of innovative anti-aging skincare products.
"Maintaining homeostasis is a fundamental element of human physiology. Fortunately, our bodies, tissues and skin are well equipped to do just that, thanks in particular to the bioactive lipids in the resolution. These lipids play a key role in enabling the body to move from a state of disturbance to a restored state of equilibrium. Promoting increased synthesis of these lipids is tantamount to reinforcing the skin's own beneficial mechanisms, helping to prevent ageing and preserve skin vitality".said Marc Dubourdeau, CEO of Ambiotis.
"It's becoming essential to rethink cosmetic intervention in favor of new, more integrative anti-aging approaches. Skin tissue integrity can no longer be considered solely in terms of the synthesis/degradation ratio of extracellular matrix elements. Targeting pro-resolving bioactive lipids is now becoming a major lever for preserving skin health and acting effectively against ageing, as part of a global approach to healthy aging.explained Nicolas Bechetoille, head of Gattefossé's skin biology research.
