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A biodegradable pea-based film-forming agent

At in-cosmetics Global, to be held in Paris from April 16 to 18, 2024, Roquette Beauté will unveil Beauté by Roquette ST 730 (Inci Hydroxypropyl Starch) to the cosmetics industry. This new ingredient responds to growing consumer demand for plant-derived cosmetics that combine sustainability and clinically proven efficacy in their skincare and make-up products.

Peas: a sustainable resource

Beauté by Roquette ST 730 is derived from pea starch, a sustainable and attractive crop with minimal impact on water resources, climate change and land use. In line with Roquette's circular production model, the company uses nearly 100 % of yellow pea grain components, contributing to a positive environmental footprint.

Superior water resistance to synthetic film-formers

Roquette Beauté reminds us that, in make-up applications, long wear and water resistance are key benefits. Worldwide, more than half of make-up consumers say they prefer a product with long-lasting properties.1 at the time of purchase.

In various studies, Beauté by Roquette ST 730 at 5 % has shown, according to Roquette Beauté, superior water resistance to market reference film-forming agents such as pullulan and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), at the same concentration.

Reduced wrinkles

Another sought-after quality: tensor effects in eye and face care products, as consumers look for visible results in these delicate, wrinkle-prone areas.

A study in vivo2 was carried out on 40 volunteers to analyze the tightening effect of the new ingredient. According to Roquette Beauté, Beauté by Roquette ST 730 at 4 % significantly reduces fine lines and wrinkles. A large majority of subjects (82 %) reported that their fine lines and wrinkles were reduced.

"We are very proud of the addition of Beauté by Roquette ST 730 to our product range, says Bénédicte Courel, General Manager of Roquette Beauté. Consumers are keen to make their skincare and make-up routines more sustainable, replacing synthetic or controversial ingredients with plant-based alternatives, without compromising on efficacy or benefits. Beauté by Roquette ST 730 is a game-changer for cosmetics brands wishing to incorporate plant-based ingredients into their formulations while delivering a visible tightening effect to consumers."

1. Kantar Profiles/Mintel, April 2023, June 2023; KuRunData/Mintel, May 2023.

2. Beauté by Roquette ST 730 was evaluated at 4 % and compared to a placebo. Skin relief parameters were measured on 40 volunteers (aged 45 to 65), in a single application, using the 3D Primos Lite (LMI Technologies).

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