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Cosmogen has designed Deinde's ultra-refreshing eye roller.

COSMOGEN - UCER SOLO - Baby Roller

Deinde is a preventative skincare brand that targets inflammation. It is formulated from naringin, the active ingredient of US biotech Debut, a company with full vertical integration capabilities, including ingredient discovery, cell culture, biofermentation, formulation, clinically evaluated scalable finished ingredients and brand creation.

Deinde has adopted Cosmogen's Baby Roller to accompany its smoothing eye cream.

After applying a few drops of the formula to the eye contour area, the ultra-refreshing eye roller can be used to massage the orbital area. It can also be used at any time of day to decongest and soothe the eye contour.

site-industries-cosmetiques Three metallic ball cosmetic applicators (pink, blue and white) each bearing the inscription "COSMOGEN". These tools are scattered on a white background, giving off an air of artistic flair reminiscent of a Brouillon automobile sketch.

Baby Roller is the ultimate pocket roller for massaging sensitive areas of the face. It is designed with a stainless steel ball - 316 L; ⌀15 mm - and a body is PP, also available in PP-PCR.

Cosmed strengthens the traceability and security of its over-the-counter certificates

certificate of free sale - Cosmed

The Certificate of Free Sale (CVL) is an official document required by the authorities of 69 countries outside the European Union as a condition for importing finished cosmetic products into their markets. The CVL issued by Cosmed, a trade association representing French cosmetics companies with 1030 members, certifies that the cosmetics mentioned comply with regulation (EC) n°1223/2009 and can therefore be marketed in the European Union.

To meet the growing challenges of transparency and security, Cosmed has adopted a new system that enhances the traceability and tamper-proofing of CVLs.

"With this innovative technology, integrating blockchain, each certificate can be authenticated instantly, on a smartphone, without any mobile application to download, thus limiting the risks of fraud and ensuring the integrity of documents throughout the export chain."says Cosmed.

Instantly authenticated by the authorities, Cosmed CVLs are forgery-proof.

The process is simplified for customs and health authorities, who can instantly verify with a QR code that the document presented corresponds to the original issued by Cosmed.

What's more, this innovation, based on Sorga, a low-power blockchain technology developed by MAP Emulsion, is part of an eco-responsible approach. Unlike traditional blockchain technologies, it has a reduced environmental impact, in line with Cosmed's commitment to sustainability.

"This major innovation represents an additional guarantee for our exporting companies, their international partners and local authorities.says Jean-Marc Giroux, President of Cosmed. By choosing Sorga, a French solution, we are affirming our commitment to digital sovereignty while meeting the traceability requirements of the global market."

Visual taken from the Cosmed website.

Packaging: Medicos, eco-responsible processes and products

Medicos - Melvita

Medicos is one of those French industrial SMEs that are doing well, and which do not hesitate to invest to modernize their equipment and expand their offer. Thanks to its four specialized sites, the company is in a position to meet the packaging needs of cosmetics players and to be a driving force behind proposals, in particular to help brands comply with the new PPWR regulations.

"As we enter the year 2025, it's a happy coincidence that the combined age of Medicos' four industrial units means we're celebrating our 300th anniversary! 100 years for the Izernore plant (formerly Mino Gaillard), 100 years for the Chassal plant (formerly Janvier), 60 years for the Milan plant (formerly CO.VE) and 40 years for the Rombach plant in Alsace (formerly Dinamic Emballages). "says Cédric Marmonier, President of Medicos.

Dinamic Emballages, a plasturgist specializing in the production of single and bi-material injected parts for the beauty, food and pharmaceutical industries, as well as technical parts, and equipped with highly automated processes, is the most recent acquisition of the Lyon-based group. This acquisition, formalized in 2024, enables the company to enrich its know-how and consolidate its beauty division.

An industrial group

Founded in 2002 with the acquisition of plastic injection company RR Plastiques, Medicos has gone from strength to strength, becoming a recognized industrial group in the packaging sector. Having divested its healthcare assets in 2018, it is now focusing on its beauty and food activities, positioning itself as a major player in plastic injection and drawn glass.

Medicos Beauty offers French and international brands a complete range of full-service products for the cosmetics, perfumery and make-up segments (jars, droppers, roll-ons, perfume caps, etc.). The Group masters the entire value chain, from product design to decoration. The synergy between its entities enables it to offer customized solutions. The beauty sector accounts for 68 % of its business.

The group's strengths: its industrial park. "We design customized special machines for our own products as well as for specific customer products. We develop in-line assembly and decoration machines. We have a project to extend the Medicos Chassal site in order to develop our machines for the whole Group. This involves an expansion program of over 800 m2 over 2025 afin order to pursue our in-house development of special machines and provide industrialization solutions as close as possible to our customers' needs."says site manager Elodie Perrot.

Process and product innovations

At the heart of Medicos' approach: process innovation within a CSR framework. The group has set up a vast development program for its automated machines, produced in-house, and integrates latest-generation equipment such as machine vision. Its energy consumption is monitored afin order to avoid any wastage, and rejects are reintegrated into processes.

Médicos also innovates on the product side. For example, the La Roche Posay roll-on dropper. The manufacturer has put its expertise in dosage at the service of the brand to design an innovative gesture, the roll-on tip providing comfort of use with the integrated cold effect massage.

The Group, which produces 40 % of standard packaging and 60 % of specific packaging, did not wait for the application of the European PPWR regulation (Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation) on the management of packaging and packaging waste to take action and establish a roadmap around the circular economy. " We create and strive to create packaging that is lighter in weight, refillable, contains recycled and recyclable materials. For example, since 2020 we have been developing a range of standard refillable or reusable lightweight jars that can contain recycled and recyclable materials. Today, 85% of the products in this range are made from recycled and recyclable materials. And our goal is to reach 100 %. This involves numerous qualifications, modifications to our tooling, process reviews and the mobilization of our teams. We also work hard to explain to our customers that they sometimes have to accept a slightly lower perceived quality.says site manager Denis Moiraud.

Designing eco-responsible packaging is also the result of partnerships with suppliers: "We open our doors to them, and they come along to try things out and watch the tests. Currently, for example, we're working with a raw material producer on a recycled PET, 100 % mechanical, developed in France. This requires concessions and work, a lot of time, energy and investment.continues Denis Moiraud. For plastic injection molding, we work with different types of materials: petro-sourced materials, mechanically recycled materials (grinding technology), chemically recycled materials (molecular recycling) and materials derived from biomass.

Recent product developments include an innovative Re-CliCK refill (a Medicos patent) adopted by Melvita of the L'Occitane group. Medicos also recently announced a collaboration between Medicos Beauty, IMCD Group (a responsible distributor of specialty chemicals and ingredients) and Eastman (a developer of specialty materials) to offer Cristal One Renew IM812, a recyclable material with up to 100 % of ISCC-certified recycled content. Perfect for thick-walled jars, this material - compatible with the RIC-1 recycling stream and manufactured with up to 100 % of molecular recycled content - offers, according to the packaging solutions manufacturer, glass-like clarity. 

Manufacturing facilities at four sites 
Plastic injection molding
- A fleet of 92 presses
- Integrated high-performance modules + IML
- Multi-cavity molds
Drawn glass
- 8 Vertical rotary machines
- Automated feeder
- Control cameras
Decoration
- Integrated decorations on plastic and glass
- MAC, Screen printing (on plastic and glass), pad printing, laser, lacquering
Completion
- 35 Automated machines
- 10 3D printing machines

CosmeticBusiness 2025: 20 years of inspiration and innovation

Cosmetic Business

From June 4 to 5, 2025, Munich will once again be the meeting place for cosmetics industry decision-makers when the sector gathers for the 20th edition of CosmeticBusiness.

From 40 exhibitors in 2005 to 400 today: CosmeticBusiness celebrates 20 years of success. "Since 2005, CosmeticBusiness has been impressing visitors with its clear concept and focus on the cosmetics industry. In this anniversary year, we want to pay special tribute to this recipe for success, to the CosmeticBusiness 'tried and tested formula' - everything to do with cosmetics production and packaging in one place, from ingredients to manufacturing and private label production, to the variety of packaging materials. True to the motto 'Where Beauty Starts', we look forward to giving Munich's CosmeticBusiness community a new impetus for product development, and to celebrating 20 years of CosmeticBusiness together."says project manager Ivonne Simons.

In addition to the exhibitors' area, which will bring together formulators, suppliers of raw materials and testing institutes, and packaging manufacturers, the Spotlight novelties exhibition area, as well as presentations and round tables with industry experts in the Innovation Corner, will also be a source of inspiration, as will the Startup area.

As far as conferences are concerned, the presentation program will be even more interactive this year thanks to new round tables, and cosmetics brands will be given more space. The definitive program with full details will be published on the CosmeticBusiness website in April.

This year also sees the inaugural CosmeticBusiness Community Awards.

Schwan Cosmetics unveils its new Cloud Touch Finish collection at MakeUp in LA

SC_Bilder_Press_Release_CLOUD_TOUCH

Responding to the " cloud skin "Schwan Cosmetics, German manufacturer of color cosmetics and supplier to many leading beauty brands, has unveiled a collection of six new formulas designed to deliver a blurred finish. The new Cloud Touch Finish collection was launched at MakeUp in LA on February 12 and 13, 2025. The range responds to the "cloudy skin" and "blurred make-up" trends, offering beauty brands access to turnkey, market-ready solutions.

The Cloud Touch Finish range combines matte finishes with a blurred sheen. It also responds to the minimalist beauty routines favored by many people today, delivering a discreet, shine-free look and filter-like finish that smoothes out skin imperfections while retaining a natural, skin-like texture. 

"In the fast-moving US market, beauty brands, especially innovative new labels looking to expand, need to respond quickly to emerging trends while preserving their unique identity. Our role is to anticipate and quickly identify trends and translate them into versatile products that help our customers stand out from the crowd, explains Anke Krasser, SVP Global Sales Americas. The Cloud Touch Finish collection illustrates this approach. The range offers solutions that enable brands to capitalize on the trend towards blurred and filtered matte finishes with high-performance solutions and multifunctional concepts across multiple product categories. Customizable options, such as packaging formats, also help individual brands maintain their unique market positioning while closely satisfying fast-changing customer demands with rapidly implemented product launches."

The Cloud Touch Finish collection includes a liquid eye blush, a liquid blush for cheeks, a liquid blush for lips, a liquid eye cushion, a stick liner for lips and a blurred pencil for lipstick in the shape of a cloud. Each product incorporates advanced technology that transforms lightweight formulas into silky, long-lasting finishes. Incorporating technologies such as 3D elastomer structures, nourishing oil infusions and gel-to-cream transformations, the Cloud Touch Finish collection offers blendability, long-lasting performance and sensory appeal.

Groupe Rocher: for ethical and responsible artificial intelligence

Groupe Rocher - IA Pact

Groupe Rocher has announced its adherence to the AI Pact, a European Union initiative to promote the ethical and responsible use of artificial intelligence. It is one of the first French retail companies, and the first cosmetics group, to commit to this framework.

A pioneer in the construction of artificial intelligence compliance governance, the group was singled out at the 2024 Corporate Law Summit in the "Data & AI" category for its commitment to placing ethics and compliance at the heart of its initiatives. In particular, starting in 2022, it has launched an audit system to identify all AI systems in use, regardless of their level of risk, and if necessary conduct more in-depth analyses for a strict assessment of their compliance.

An "Oversight Board IA" committee comprising 11 professions was also created in 2023 to adopt an even more inclusive and reasoned approach to artificial intelligence. " This committee works closely with the information systems department, through a partnership aimed at ensuring a technological transformation that is at once frugal, ethical and compliant, placing employees and customers at the heart of innovation."says the group, which has also set up a Privacy & AI Consumer Observatory. Some 1,000 French people were questioned as part of this initiative, notably on the democratization of AI by companies, a survey which revealed strong consumer expectations in terms of responsibility and governance around AI.

Since 2023, Groupe Rocher has also partnered with start-up Mendo to train its employees in the issues, functionalities and risks associated with generative AI, as part of a proactive approach to prevention and awareness-raising.

Visual taken from the Groupe Rocher.

Fedrigoni invests in Papkot to lead the transition from plastic to fiber in sustainable packaging

Papkot - Fedrigoni

This agreement is part of the Group's corporate venture capital program, which aims to identify cutting-edge start-ups in order to accelerate their innovation process, help them acquire new technologies and assist their customers in their transition to sustainability. 

Papkot has developed and patented a fiber-based paper coating technology. This highly protective coating is fully recyclable and biodegradable on an industrial scale. Its innovative materials science approach ensures compatibility with paper and packaging manufacturing processes. This application represents an alternative to conventional plastic coatings and biopolymer-based barriers. It aims to eliminate plastic from single-use packaging. 

The Italian Fedrigoni Group is a world leader in the manufacture of paper.
for packaging and other creative applications, self-adhesive labels
graphic media for visual communication and RFID technologies.

SurfactGreen launches a new, more concentrated active ingredient

person-8606648_1280

SurfactGreen formulates, produces and markets solvent-free, biosourced surfactants that are easily biodegradable. The young Rennes-based company is expanding its range of cosmetics solutions with the launch of CosmeGreen PC50. This new surfactant, with its higher concentration of active ingredients, follows in the footsteps of the first synthetic solutions used in hair care.   

According to SurfactGreen, "Naturalness criteria are always present, but technical performance combined with a lower impact on formula costs remain the objective of brands. Our CosmeGreen PC50 makes it possible to reconcile these three elements".

CosmeGreen PC50, made in France and Cosmos-certified, guarantees a 100% % composition of natural origin, without palm oil. Its synthesis is based on environmentally-friendly green chemistry processes, without the use of solvents, and developed from beet and rapeseed extracts.

The other major advantage of CosmeGreen PC50, according to SurfactGreen, is its lower impact on formula cost, with a percentage of active ingredient at 50 %. 

"The cost-in-use objective was the starting point for our research. At the same time, we observed superior technical performance on hairexplains SurfactGreen. Hair care is becoming increasingly popular with consumers, and the CosmeGreen range now offers numerous solutions for conditioners, masks,... with or without rinsing".

Ready-to-use formulas are already available to stimulate creativity and facilitate future brand development.

Photo: Sushi_musume_jk / Pixabay

Gaspard Cottance is reborn with a new-generation organic skincare line

Gaspard Cottance

Founded in Paris in 1863 by Gaspard Cottance, the house that bears his name is back in the spotlight with a new generation of organic skincare products.

In the 19th century, Gaspard Cottance brought French cosmetics into the modern era, bridging the gap between the artisanal approach and scientific techniques. According to the brand, he was behind the first facial ointment to achieve worldwide success on five continents, thanks to a codified formula of unprecedented stability.

Badly affected by the First World War, then forgotten, the brand - which won four gold medals at World's Fairs from Melbourne to Brussels to Paris - was rediscovered in 2018 by a French entrepreneurial couple with a passion for natural beauty and history, during a trip to Tokyo, Japan.

After six years of research, Julien and Sue Le Picard relaunch the brand, offering a complete ritual of exceptional skincare combining biotechnologies and traditional dispensary methods.

Natural science

The formulas are based on the company's three founding principles, These are "revisited in the light of the most recent advances in cosmetology: proportion, guaranteeing optimal concentration of each ingredient; harmony, ensuring perfect synergy with the skin; and elevation, sublimating natural formulas through science".explain the co-founders.

Each treatment contains a clinically effective concentration of regenerating active ingredients - derived from precious plants grown in France or from advanced biotechnologies (cell culture, biofermentation, enzymatic catalysis). At the heart of each formula, water is replaced by the exclusive HBC6 complex, an exclusive fusion of officinal plants and probiotics helping the skin to protect itself from external aggressors responsible for premature aging. HBC6 maximizes the effectiveness of the formulas, acting directly on hydration and the skin barrier.

Organic sensoriality

Sensorial formulas and eco-responsibility are also at the heart of the Gaspard Cottance approach. Full traceability of ingredients, essentially sourced in France, has been implemented. Packaging is made of recyclable glass and FSC-certified cardboard. The natural olfactory signature was developed in Grasse. And the exceptional textures are the fruit of artisanal and scientific know-how.

"This approach is independently audited every year by Ecocert. Made in France in small batches to optimize freshness, and Cosmos Organic certified, these exceptional skincare products inaugurate a new chapter in the age-old history of Maison Gaspard Cottance, celebrating authentic beauty and timeless elegance".the company says.

DS Smith modernizes its Contoire-Hamel site

New DS Smith Contoire-Hamel hood

British paper and packaging manufacturer DS Smith recently completed major modernization work at its Contoire-Hamel site in the Somme region of France. The aim of this €4.5 million investment was to optimize energy consumption and limit CO2 emissions at the plant, which produces paper for corrugated board (PPO).

A new hood has been installed in the dryer, along with an energy recovery tower equipped with three successive heat exchangers. This system reduces annual gas consumption by 20 % (i.e. 28 GWh per year, equivalent to the consumption of a cardboard mill). It also reduces CO2 emissions by 5,000 tonnes a year.

In the service of sustainability

site-industries-cosmetiques A tall industrial metal structure with multiple platforms and staircases stands in the middle of the Contoire-Hamel site. Under a clear blue sky, the factory buildings serve as a backdrop, embodying DS Smith's modernization efforts. Smoke is faintly visible at the top of the tower.
Heat recovery tower at the DS Smith paper mill in Contoire-Hamel © DS Smith

The tower will also recover around 140 m3 of condensation water per day, helping to preserve water resources.

"This project is in line with our "Today and Tomorrow" sustainability strategy and our decarbonization objectives to achieve zero net emissions by 2050. It complements previous initiatives taken at the site, such as our cogeneration station and biogas boiler. This investment also contributes to the plant's long-term viability and the preservation of jobs.said Matthieu Chateau, General Manager of the site.

A major project

To complete the project, the plant had to suspend operations from October 7 to 23, 2024. Up to 150 people from various trades (carpenters, automation mechanics, electronics engineers, pipe fitters, insulators, boilermakers, etc.) worked on the site, which was open 20 hours a day.

Front photo: New hood installed in the dryer.

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