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U'Cosmetics: 13 courses represented at the student competition in cosmetic innovation and formulation

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The editorial staff
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The 14th edition of U'Cosmetics, organized by Uco Bretagne Nord, will take place on March 16, 2023 on the theme of "Cosmetics & Sport: let's innovate around the beauty of sport!
Our University benefits from a real pole of expertise in cosmetics by proposing a training course turned towards the professional world. With this in mind, Uco Bretagne Nord, a true pioneer, created 14 years ago the first student competition and professional symposium focused on cosmetic innovation.
It brings together major players from industry, academia and the institutional world at the international level to make progress on a theme that changes every year. The objective is to develop a collective innovation dynamic within the cosmetics industry.
To accompany consumers in their quest for good health, well-being and beauty, cosmetic brands must indeed offer products that meet the problems of athletes while adapting to the constraints of use: a real playground for innovation.

Student competitions: a springboard for the future professionals of tomorrow

U'Cosmetics is the first student competition for innovation in cosmetic formulation. It is open to any team of 1 to 5 students enrolled in a course (Bachelor's degree, professional degree, Master's degree, engineering school, business/marketing school, etc.) concerned with formulation, marketing and cosmetology.
The 2023 edition is focused on the theme "cosmetics & sport". Teams from all over France and even Europe are invited to compete in two categories rewarded by 4 prizes:
- 1st Prize Innovation Formulation
- 2nd Prize Innovation Formulation
- Innovative Concept Award
- Philippe Collas special prize (awarded by Internet users)


Registration for the 14th edition of our student competition closed on Monday 12
December 2022 with :

29 teams registered
113 student participants
13 formations represented:

  • Professional Degree in Chemistry and Formulation, Cosmetics and Dermopharmaceutics - University of Montpellier, Faculty of Pharmacy
  • Master's degree in Biotechnology, Cosmetic Product and Process Engineering - Uco Bretagne Nord
  • Master Chemistry Icap Cosmetic Engineering - University of Montpellier
  • Master of Science in Drugs and Health Products, Aging and Anti-Aging Strategies - University of Montpellier, Faculty of Pharmacy
  • Master in Bioactive Chemistry and Cosmetics - University of Orleans
  • Master MAE course Biology Management - University Rennes 1
  • Engineering cycle - Ebi (Cergy)
  • Chemical Engineer Cycle - Escom (Compiègne)
  • Engineering cycle specializing in Formulation Chemistry - Itech de Lyon
  • Engineering cycle, Biological Engineering and Health - Polytech d'Angers
  • Chemical Engineer - ENSCM (Montpellier)
  • Chemical Engineer - ENSCMu (Mulhouse)
  • Engineer in Formulation Chemistry - Itech de Lyon

This year, two new courses have joined the competition, the Master in Chemistry Icap (Cosmetic Engineering) from the University of Montpellier and the Master in Bioactive and Cosmetic Chemistry from the University of Orleans.
Students registered in the competition will be able to attend a workshop on intellectual property
animated by Inpi and an awareness of business creation animated by the Anticipa technopole.


Selection of the 10 finalist teams

In February 2023, a jury composed of 12 industry professionals will select the 10 most relevant and innovative projects during a pre-jury.
The finalists will then meet again during the final, on Thursday March 16th at the Uco Bretagne Nord, where they will have to pitch their project in front of the public in 4 minutes and have it tested during a presentation on a stand.
Following the jury's deliberation, the 4 winning projects will receive from U'Cosmetics and our partners: a financial award, visibility on social networks, access to a network of experts, cosmetic products and subscriptions to specialized professional magazines.

Clariant announces new investments to improve its Chinese ethoxylation plant

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The editorial staff
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Clariant is set to expand its Daya Bay care chemicals plant in Huizhou, China, to further support customers in the pharmaceutical, personal care, home care and industrial applications.
The investment of 80 million Swiss francs will increase the capacity of existing products and introduce new products by the end of 2024. By successfully obtaining GMP certification for drugs, Clariant's Daya Bay manufacturing site has become the first API manufacturer in China with certified polyethylene glycol (Polyglykol 3350). The site will also become a new global hub for Clariant's healthcare business support, accelerating the delivery of high-quality ingredients for life-changing medicines.


" The successful production and pharmaceutical quality registration of PEGs is an excellent example of Clariant's ability to grow within its strategic business segment and support its customers" Zhigang Miao, industrial applications manager of Clariant Care Chemical, said.


Clariant will also expand existing production capacity for its ethylene oxide derivatives (EOD) and a broader portfolio of chemicals at Daya Bay. As a result, it will ramp up production of more sustainable ingredients that can help customers meet their environmental goals and create differentiated, more sustainable solutions to meet industry demands. For example, EcoTain-labeled plant-based Hostapon mild surfactant helps personal care brands and formulators develop gentler, cleaner beauty products in applications such as solid beauty bars, shower gels and cream-type shampoos.


"The many market segments we serve from Daya Bay are evolving to reflect changing sustainability goals and end-product performance needs, and we want to bring our own innovation and doser expertise to these customers to help them advance their developments" Christian Vang, head of Clariant Care Chemicals, comments. " Daya Bay was home to Clariant's first ethoxylation plant in Asia, and with these investments, we will evolve this site into an integrated multi-purpose plant/ethylene oxide derivatives site, close to major production sites. This underscores our commitment to bringing more chemistry to the region to support our customers' success." 

The Care Chemicals investment to upgrade the Chinese ethoxylation plant follows several recent Clariant investments at Daya Bay. In October 2022, Clariant announced the addition of a second production line at its future halogen-free flame retardant additives plant, currently under construction at the site. The first line of the new plant is expected to open in mid-2023, with the second line coming on line during 2024.

Anne Flipo, Master Perfumer at IFF, received the François Coty 2022 Honorary Award

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The editorial staff
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Anne Flipo has been named Master Perfumer for 2019, joining the biggest names in perfumery.

On Monday, November 28, she received the Prix d'Honneur François Coty, which rewards a perfumer for his career. Since 2000, the François Coty Association has rewarded the greatest names in French perfumery. 

Anne Flipo was trained by the great names in perfumery before developing her own style and approach. Since joining IFF in 2004, her list of international successes has continued to grow. Her creations have won several Fragrance Foundation awards in Europe and the United States. In 2014, Anne Flipo received the Perfumer of the Year Award from Cosmétique Magazine and the Achiever Award from Cosmetic Executive Women France (CEW) in 2016.

Today, with the François Coty Honorary Award, a new prestigious distinction has been bestowed on Anne Flipo's career. " I instantly felt a huge sense of pride, because this award is the recognition of my peers. It is a consecration." 

Christophe de Villeplée, President of IFF's Scent Division, says of her: "Anne has a remarkable talent: that of creation, of course, but also that of transmission, and her ability to federate around her the talents of the perfumers with whom she plays a true role of mentor. This is what a great master perfumer is all about. This François Coty honorary prize rewards her ability to create innovative and unique olfactory signatures that give pleasure. " .
Anne Flipo's driving force is pleasure: "Pleasure is at the heart of everything I do: the pleasure of creating, of discovering new raw materials, of rediscovering facets of these raw materials that we thought we had known forever and which are constantly revealing their mysteries. The pleasure we offer to all those who wear our perfumes" .
As a Master Perfumer, Anne Flipo has a fundamental mission: transmission. "The future of perfumery is young perfumers, who today come from all over the world, from Asia, Africa, and not only from France or America. For the past 10 years, I have had the chance to train these future talents. They amaze me, impress me, nourish me and make me think every day / "With such mentors, the future of perfumery has great years ahead of it!


Anne Flipo's data sheet :
Source of creation The freedom, the decompartmentalization, the setting in spaces, the creation of passages between the multiple ideas or impressions.
Key: "The permanent introspection, this raw exposure that gives access to the mastery of writing, that allows to provoke a face to face with the formula by eliminating the
external parameters. Only this mastery of writing gives pleasure and a form of timelessness."
Mission: "My greatest ambition, transmission."
Passion: "Le Parfum, I remain in pursuit of my masterpiece"

Great success for the Aromadays

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The editorial staff
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Aurélie PERRICHET- IFRA, Jean-François GOURSOT - PRODAROM, Cristina ARREGUI- IFRA, Sylvain BINTEIN - EUROPEAN COMMISSION, Véronique SCAILTEUR - CHANEL, Jean-Marc GIROUX - COSMED, Philippe MASSE - PRODAROM)

Discussions between authorities and producers on the market take on a new dimension

A constructive exchange between authorities, experts and marketers, fuelled by the latest scientific advances, marked this 4ème edition of the Aromadays congress.

During 2 days, 150 congressmen, actors of the essential oils sector, attended the presentation of the results of the last scientific studies which came to "shake up" the project of the European Commission to introduce, in the revision of the CLP regulation, the principle of Mocs (More than One Constituent Substances) for the classification and the labeling of the substances of more than one constituent, considering that complex substances have the same "behavior" as mixtures.

The central question of the exchanges was whether the main component has the same toxicological profile as the whole oil?

In this context, the new h-Placentox test, invented by the CNRS team of Professor and researcher Patrice Rat, to assess the endocrine disrupting effects of substances, is robust, innovative and predictive.

First of all, he rehabilitates lavender essential oil, which has been the subject of much media controversy in recent years, by attributing hormone modulating effects to it, but without observing any deleterious effects on the placenta, unlike all the proven endocrine disruptors (bisphenol A, phthalates, etc.) that have been tested in parallel and that induce placental alterations. In addition, the work shows that " some constituents quantified at more than 80% in some essential oils do not have the same toxicological profile when evaluated alone or when studied in the overall essential oil at the same concentration"..

This test was ranked 1er on 256 international tests by the European Pepper platform for the assessment of endocrine disruptors and is undergoing international OECD validation.

The 3 years of research by Dr. Sophie Fouyet, Yslab and Mathilde Hagege, Léa Nature, with Pr RAT's team demonstrating the TOTUM effect of Essential Oils, confirm the results of hormonal modulation but without deleterious placental effects for all the essential oils tested (Tea Tree, Lavender, Ylang Ylang, Wintergreen, Niaouli, Orange).

This work also demonstrates that drom a toxicological point of view, a constituent, even a majority one, is not representative of the essential oil as a whole. For example, the oil

Orange essential oil containing 95% of limonene does not have the same hormonal modulating effects as limonene alone tested at the same concentrations.

The European Commission, represented at the congress by Dr. Sylvain Bintein of the DG Environment, suggested an opportunity: derogations, applicable to complex substances, could be submitted by the industry to the European Commission, with a scientific and robust technical file, demonstrating the safety of the essential oil as a whole. This dossier would be forwarded to Echa's Risk Assessment Committee. On the basis of a positive opinion, a specific provision introduced in Annex 1 of the CLP Regulation through a delegated act would allow to obtain this derogation.

Given the investment that the production of relevant scientific evidence could represent for SMEs, Cosmed, in the context of this exchange, has requested that the criteria for analyzing exemption files be communicated in advance.

Lumson collaborates with Avène

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The editorial staff
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For Avène, a leading beauty company, Lumson has developed two types of packaging: Re Place for the new Cellular Renewable Cream, and a totally customized version of Envers Glas for the Multi-Intensive Night Cream.

Lumson for Hyaluron active B3

Another name of excellence has been added to Lumson's list of collaborations with leading brands. This time, it's Eau Thermale Avène, a Pierre Fabre Group brand, which, for its new Hyaluron Activ B3 line, has placed its trust in the expertise and technological know-how of Lumson, a leading Italian company in the primary cosmetics packaging sector.

Hyaluron Activ B3 is characterized by its revolutionary approach to fighting the signs of aging and by its ecological footprint. The latter follows the sustainability policy adopted by the Pierre Fabre Group some time ago, best illustrated by the creation of Green Mission in 2019, an integrated business unit that brings together and coordinates all the Group's CSR and sustainable development initiatives. An important part of the Group's objectives is devoted to new products which, since 2020, have been designed in an eco-sustainable way, just like Hyaluron Activ B3, which opens a new chapter in the long history of Avéne.

Re Place for cell renewal cream

For the velvety, comforting and enveloping cell renewal cream, we chose Re Place, a 50ml refill jar with a refillable inner cup. This innovative, eco-friendly solution is perfectly in line with the Pierre Fabre Group's sustainability policy. Just one year after its market launch, thanks to its versatility and fresh, innovative look, Lumson's Re Place has earned a place of honor in the skincare world.

Equipped with an easily removable and replaceable eco-refill, it represents the ideal solution for Avène, which combines elegance with an ecological approach: the refill solution in fact has an extremely positive environmental impact because, thanks to reuse - one of the pillars of the circular economy - it avoids the manufacture and transport of new materials and, at the same time, promotes more ethical and virtuous habits among consumers.

Envers Glas for Multi-Intensive Night Cream

A totally personalized Envers Glas was chosen for the multi-intensive night cream that stimulates cell renewal and activates collagen synthesis. Formulated with Haritaki extract, which prevents the degradation of hyaluronic acid and increases its lifespan, and Retinaldeide, 10x more active than Retinol, this rich, enveloping cream contains 97% of naturally-derived ingredients and promises more toned skin after just 15 days of use.  

Envers Glas is an airless pouch system that combines the qualities of the "classic" Envers - in primis, safety and preservation of a formula's integrity - with the prestigious appearance of glass, a noble and sophisticated material. Envers Glas, with its new cosmetic dispensing method, offers ease of use, maximum safety and high product restitution, perfect for meeting the needs of consumers who are known to prefer jarred products for their beauty routines.  

With Envers Glas, innovation goes far beyond: thanks to advanced technology, unique design and high functionality, Lumson's airless jar represents the generation of cosmetic packaging that is paving the way for a more conscious mode of consumption that is more respectful of people and the environment.  

Prad for Parfums de Marly

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The editorial staff
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For the holiday season, Parfums de Marly has launched a limited edition of its two discovery boxes in collaboration with French artist Benoît Aupoix. These "Château Editions" include four of their "signature" fragrances, each offered in a 10 ml bottle.

For the decoration of their bottles, the House called on the expertise of the Prad teams: a silver and gunmetal finish for the Pegasus and Herod fragrances, a blue matte aluminum lacquer for Layton and a deep pink satin lacquer for Oriana. The brand's emblem, particularly detailed and delicate to apply, adorns the bottles with a silk-screen print.

Kering and L'Occitane Group join forces with the Climate Fund for Nature

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The editorial staff
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On the occasion of the 15th Conference of the Parties (COP) to the Convention on Biological Diversity, taking place in Montreal, global luxury group Kering and high-end sustainable cosmetics company Groupe L'Occitane will announce their partnership to create the Climate Fund for Nature.

This ambitious fund will mobilize the resources of the luxury and beauty sectors to protect and restore nature, with a particular focus on promoting women's independence. 140 million euros have already been committed by the two groups, with a total target of 300 million euros. The fund will be open to other partner companies to help intensify its positive impact in the field. It will be managed by Mirova, a subsidiary of Natixis Investment Managers dedicated to responsible investment.

As countries and companies step up their commitments to combat climate crises and biodiversity damage, the need for increased funding and investment in nature protection is now universally recognized as essential. In the future, if the world is to meet its climate change, biodiversity and soil preservation targets, investment in nature-based solutions must at least triple by 2030 and quadruple by 2050.2. This acceleration would be equivalent to a cumulative total investment of up to $10,000 billion and an annual investment rate of $674 billion.2.

The Climate Fund for Nature, initiated by Kering and supported by the L'Occitane Group, aims to mobilize substantial capital for the protection and restoration of nature. It combines ambitious commitments, totalling 140 million euros already committed out of a total target of 300 million euros, and will draw on Mirova's proven expertise in managing funds dedicated to natural capital.

The investment vehicle will be operational in the first quarter of 2023. With the aim of supporting high-quality projects dedicated to the protection and restoration of nature, the fund will also support farmers in their transition to regenerative agriculture, deliver carbon credits and generate co-benefits for communities with a particular focus on promoting women's independence. Eligible projects will mainly be located in countries where investors source their main raw materials. Project progress will be carefully monitored to ensure that they produce measurable results for nature, climate and people's livelihoods.

The projects supported must also make a significant contribution to promoting women's independence, notably by bridging existing gaps in access to finance, land and training. To this end, the fund and Mirova will collaborate with 2X Collaborative, a global cross-sectoral organization promoting investment from a gender perspective.

On the occasion of the launch of the Climate Fund for Nature, Marie-Claire Daveu, Kering's Director of Sustainable Development and Institutional Affairs, commented: " The Climate Fund for Nature offers the luxury and beauty sectors the opportunity to collectively support the restoration and conservation of biodiversity on a large scale. KERING is proud to collaborate with Mirova and to welcome Groupe L'Occitane as the fund's first partner. If we are to halt and reverse the loss of biodiversity by 2030 and combat climate change, which is itself intrinsically linked to nature, innovative financing mechanisms are essential to direct much-needed investment towards nature-based solutions. We invite other companies to join this ambitious initiative to contribute to a nature-friendly future. ".

Adrien Geiger, Chief Sustainability Officer of the L'Occitane Group and Managing Director of L'Occitane en Provence, adds: "Nur planet is facing a global climate and biodiversity crisis never seen before. The L'Occitane Group is proud to join forces with Kering and Mirova to step up our action against the degradation of nature - the very thing that provides the resources and services on which we depend. While reducing our emissions and our impact on the environment is our priority, the Climate Fund for Nature will help us to go further by supporting projects that encourage regenerative practices that benefit not only nature, but also communities. ".

Anne-Laurence Roucher, Deputy Managing Director and Head of Private Equity and Natural Capital at Mirova, concludes: " We are proud to collaborate with KERING, Groupe L'Occitane and other companies to accelerate the mobilization of resources for nature-based solutions, the fight against climate change and the promotion of women's independence. To achieve a nature-positive, zero net carbon economy, a very significant mobilization of capital and investment is required, and the ambitious contribution of companies is essential.".

Medmix Beauty (Geka) repeats its success with the Ecovadis platinum medal

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The editorial staff
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Geka Earns EcoVadis Platinum Sustainability Rating for Third Consecutive Year Reinforcing its commitment to creating a greener beauty industry, Geka has been awarded its third Platinum sustainability rating by EcoVadis. A leading provider of high-precision cosmetic application solutions, Geka, a medmix Beauty brand, continues to demonstrate industry leadership by being among the 1% of top performing companies. EcoVadis provides the world's most trusted corporate sustainability assessments. Companies rely on EcoVadis to provide comprehensive sustainability reports that accurately assess their overall performance and inform their sustainability strategies. Participants can encourage transparency by sharing this information with stakeholders and use it to develop sustainability strategies.

The reports focus on four main categories that together provide an overall score. Within its sector, Geka ranked among the top 1 % of companies in labor and human rights, as well as among the top 2 % in environment and sustainable sourcing (both up from the top 6 % in 2021). Oliver Vogel, CEO of Geka, said, " The annual assessment of our sustainability efforts by EcoVadis is an essential part of our overall strategy. We want to offer innovative cosmetic solutions that do not compromise the beauty of our planet. Our notable improvement in the Environment and Sustainable Sourcing categories illustrates how we are continuously working to optimize our sustainability. I would like to thank everyone for their efforts in this regard." 

EcoVadis is not the only independent expert Geka works with to transparently help its customers and suppliers achieve their environmental goals. Recently, the company committed to reducing its greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions by 30 % in 2029 compared to 2019, which was independently validated by the Science Based Target Initiative (SBTi). In 2022, International Sustainability & Carbon Certification (ISSC) Plus was awarded to its cosmetic packaging injection blow molding facility in Elgin, Illinois.

Recently, offering more detail and transparency, Geka released its first annual sustainability report, which assessed its environmental, social and governance performance from October 2020 to September 2021.

As a member of medmix, a global leader in high-precision delivery devices, Geka, along with all areas of the company's business, continues to reduce the carbon footprint of its operations. In its supply chain, air freight shipments have been significantly reduced. The percentage of low-carbon energy used in its facilities is steadily increasing, while recycled and bio-based polymers are widely adopted in product design. Geka is committed to sending no more waste to landfill by 2025. Sustainable and innovative beauty products are already on the shelves. For example, the Reborn collection of mascara, lip gloss, eyebrow brushes, cleansing pads and accessories is made at 93 % from bio-based and recycled materials, offering end users a truly sustainable beauty option.

Happy Holidays!

By
The editorial staff
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The whole team of Industries Cosmétiques wishes you a merry Christmas and a happy new year.

We're taking a few days off and will be back in early 2023 to bring you the latest news and market trends.

We'll be bringing you even more information and features, and an even richer magazine.

In the meantime, take care of yourself and your loved ones.

See you soon!

TechnicoFlor develops a fragrance collection inspired by the world of the Metaverse

By
The editorial staff
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TechnicoFlor, a French perfume composition house, supplies the biggest names in Perfumery, Cosmetics and Hygiene, and its fragrances are used in numerous applications worldwide: eau de toilettes, body and face care, shower gels, shampoos, hydro-alcoholic gels.... Constantly on the lookout for new creative directions, TechnicoFlor has now turned its attention to the world of the Metaverse, at the heart of all desire, to create a collection of 8 Eau de Toilette fragrances with never-before-seen scents. 

The Metaverse revolutionizes the beauty industry

The metaverse, digitally accessible The computer-generated environment now makes it possible to buy virtual fashion items and accessories, discover new environments and attend product launches. These worlds on the edge of reality, offering enormous freedom of space, are especially popular with brands. Defined, they say, as Web 3.0, This new market offers visibility to Generation Z (born between 1997 and 2010), who can live this immersive, interactive experience to the full. 

A new collection of 8 fragrances inspired by the Metaverse universe

Inspired by the computer world represented by the metaverse and the galaxy symbolizing space, 8 perfumers from the TechnicoFlor group have created Eau de Toilette fragrances that illustrate their own perception of this universe. The result: a collection of 8 fragrances with woody, fruity and spicy notes that invite you to travel into the infinity of space to discover scents outside the real world. 

  • A.I. World (Romain Keller) A fragrance of character, with animalic woody notes, faceted with notes of red fruits. An illustration of a world ruled by the laws of digital technology, where nature takes its revenge.
  • Parallel Universe (Bérengère Bourgarel) : A woody oriental note, where the imaginary of a parallel world is infinitely gourmand.
  • Call Of Beauty (Marika Symard) : A new interpretation of Beauty in a New World, characterized by a woody oriental DNA built around an Iris embellished with sacred spices.
  • Cyberhigh (Irène Farmachidi) :A wake anchored in the Matrix by its codes of wood, cinnamon and cardamom on a flight of smoky notes.
  • Utopia Overdose (Bertrand Duchaufour) :A plunge into a colorful fantasy world, where gourmet fruit reigns alongside precious flowers.
  • Neo Avatar (Félix Deschamps) :The imagination of an avatar in a virtual jungle, where neo citrus and sacred woods mingle on an amber base.
  • Robot Kiss (Christine Lucas): A metallic pink kiss that provokes a floral explosion of love, combined with notes of red berries.
  • NFT (Jérémy Sabater): An accord of precious notes creates a unique fragrance. A game of seduction in which woods confront sweet and spicy facets.

"Today, brands increasingly need to think outside the box - seduction, Proust's madeleine, travel, escape - to tell the story of their new fragrance. The immersive aspect is a real demand. And at the same time, there's a real need for consumers to immerse themselves in a world that's not their own. The metaverse represents a new playground for the beauty industry. For the moment, sight and hearing are the only senses used in this universe. Multi-sensoriality will be tomorrow's new way of approaching the world of perfume: leaving the consumer alone to discover his or her fragrance within a multi-sensorial universe in which he or she will be immersed. It could be a new way of presenting tomorrow's fragrances. That's why we've imagined this collection, with its different facets". explains Christopher Sabater, General Manager of TechnicoFlor's Dubai subsidiary.

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