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Recharging: a solution to be developed

Refill

To mark "World Refill Day" on June 16, 2025, Febea has published a study on consumer perceptions of the refill model.

Conducted by Senseva, with financial support from Citeo as part of the "EncoRE plus de réemploi" call for projects, this study aims to identify the essential levers for developing consumer acceptance and use of refill systems, and to propose actionable avenues for players in the cosmetics sector to encourage wider adoption. The aim is to transform current practices by integrating solutions that meet both consumer expectations and ecological challenges.

A growing craze among certain consumers

According to the study, 59 % of cosmetics consumers have purchased refills in the past year.

Two consumer segments in particular stand out:
- the "Beautistats & Tendance" (22 %): these consumers are young, sensitive to novelty, promotions and fun,
- the older "Green & Clean Beauty" group (23 %) are motivated above all by the ecological dimension.

The typical profile of the refill buyer is a woman aged 19 to 44, who is educated, active, has a high income, lives in a household of three or more people, and is a major cosmetics consumer.

Reducing environmental impact is cited by 70 % of users as the main advantage for using cosmetic refills, followed by the economic benefit, practicality, aesthetics and fun aspect of the refill.

Consumers also appreciate the opportunity to access better quality products at lower cost.

Perceptions, expectations and obstacles

Consumers identify two main refill mechanisms: pour-on refills (pouch or bottle to be decanted into a reusable container), preferred by 44 % of respondents, and insert refills (cartridge or cup to be placed in the container), favored by 38 % of them. Plug-in pouches are currently the best-known and most widely used.

However, a number of obstacles remain, such as the unavailability of refills in stores (44 %), lack of clear information, and fear of wastage, hygiene or safety when decanting (14 %), while 13 % are unaware that refills exist for certain cosmetic products.

Potential varies by product category

Consumers consider the potential of refills to vary according to product category. The current refill market is largely dominated by hygiene products (shower gels, shampoos). Next come body and face care products, fragrances (in third place), hair care products, cleansers and make-up removers.

On the contrary, other product families, such as toothpaste, make-up or baby products, seem less suited to this consumption pattern.

Levers to accelerate adoption

To encourage wider adoption of cosmetic refills, the study identifies several levers for action.

Improved in-store and online availability, clear information on ecological and economic benefits, and adapted formats (large capacity, on-the-go formats) are key expectations.

Attractive pricing, especially for low-price consumers, is also a key factor (63 %).

Product and packaging innovation, in particular the development of cap-type pouches, as well as targeted communication via social networks and beauty influencers, are effective ways of raising awareness of the benefits and use of refills.

Lastly, the study highlights the importance of working together on refills and reusable containers, to guarantee an optimal user experience and limit product waste. The success of cosmetic refills will depend on an innovative, visible offer adapted to each product category, as well as positive, educational communication.

Berlin Packaging's zero greenhouse gas emissions targets validated by the SBTi initiative

Berlin Packaging - SBTi

Packaging supplier Berlin Packaging has announced that its science-based targets of zero net greenhouse gas emissions, in both the short and long term, have been officially validated by the Science Based Targets (SBTi) initiative. This places the company among a select group of companies worldwide whose climate targets are aligned with the most ambitious model for meeting the 1.5°C threshold.

The company is committed to achieving zero net greenhouse gas emissions across its entire value chain by 2050. Its targets: reduce Scope 1 and 2 emissions by 44.8 % by 2030 and 90 % by 2050 (compared with 2022), reduce Scope 3 emissions intensity by 51.6 % by 2030 and 97 % by 2050 (per US dollar of sales, compared with 2022).

Berlin Packaging has already reduced Scope 1 and 2 emissions by more than 23 % since 2022, established a global Scope 3 reduction strategy, helped more than 80 brands launch sustainable packaging solutions, and supplied nearly 13,000 tons of post-consumer recycled materials.

"The validation of SBTi is more than just a milestone: it is independent proof that our climate objectives are real, measurable and aligned with the highest global standards.said Balaji Jayaseelan, Vice President Sustainable Development at Berlin Packaging. Our customers and partners count on us to lead with ambition and deliver results that help them achieve their own sustainability goals. This recognition inspires us to keep pushing the boundaries and build a future where business growth and climate leadership go hand in hand."

Gold & Green, a new collection from Faber-Castell Cosmetics

Faber-Castell Cosmetics_Gold and Green Product Range

Faber-Castell Cosmetics presents "Gold & Green", a product concept that redefines modern, sustainable luxury. Launched at MakeUp in Paris, this collection is aimed at a new generation of sophisticated, ethically conscious beauty consumers inspired by authenticity.

"Gold & Green celebrates the quiet power of intentional design and responsible innovation".says Faber-Castell Cosmetics.

Each product combines vegan formulas with timeless, sophisticated design. The products are animal-friendly and contain no microplastic particles. 

The range includes a matte liquid eyeliner, formulated without carbon black. The new formula contains activated charcoal, known not only for its intense pigmentation, but also for its ability to absorb sebum and impurities like a magnet. In addition, the formula contains up to 95.5 % of ingredients of natural origin, in compliance with ISO 16128. 

The brand points out that developing a liquid eyeliner in a hair-pen system is considered the ultimate challenge in color cosmetics. Only a handful of manufacturers dare to tackle the formulation of a truly clean eyeliner in a hair pen system - free of carbon black due to its association with nanoparticles on various blacklists - while offering exceptional hold. 

Combined with precision-engineered Made in Japan felts, it's powerful yet easy to use for beginners, guaranteeing perfect application for all users.

For lips, natural lip pencils are offered in both mechanical and sharpenable wooden versions, allowing consumers to choose between tactile tradition and modern convenience. The lip formula complies with Natrue and Cosmos standards, with up to 100 % of ingredients of natural origin, in accordance with ISO 16128. 

Eyebrows are refined with a natural eyebrow pencil featuring a coil applicator for effortless maintenance. The lipstick offers a soft, nourishing texture in a slashable format, a nod to sustainable development without compromising on luxury. 

Finally, a matte eyeliner pencil completes the line, offering high-performance definition with less environmental impact. It comes in the form of a sharpenable plastic pencil made from styrene-free, polyamide 12-based plastic, in order to comply with forthcoming regulations on plastics in the European Union.

L'Oréal group named Europe's most innovative company

L'Oréal VivaTech

Fortune magazine unveiled for the first time its ranking of Europe's most innovative companies at VivaTech 2025. L'Oréal takes first place.

The L'Oréal group has been named Europe's most innovative company in Fortune magazine's first-ever ranking of the continent's 300 most forward-thinking companies. The ranking was established in partnership with the global data platform Statista. The announcement was made at the VivaTech 2025 trade show, held from June 11 to 14, 2025 at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles. 

This ranking assesses innovation in 21 countries and 16 business sectors. It takes into account product innovation, process innovation and innovation culture. "We are extremely proud to be recognized by Fortune as Europe's most innovative company.said Nicolas Hieronimus, Managing Director of L'Oréal. This prestigious award not only reinforces our deep conviction that innovation, driven by science, technology and creativity, can create beauty that moves the world forward, it also testifies to the exceptional talent and commitment of our teams around the world. Their unwavering passion, boldness and entrepreneurial spirit have made this achievement possible."

L'Oréal's recent innovations include products designed to enhance longevity. L'Oréal Longevity Integrative Science combines technological advances and skin expertise to evolve from corrective to preventive care, targeting the root causes of biological aging and extending the life of skin cells. L'Oréal's Longevity Wheel deciphers the biological aging of the skin and unveils the secrets of the nine interconnected distinctive signs of its aging thanks to its proprietary platform, the Longevity AI Cloud.

Created in collaboration with NanoEntek, Lancôme Cell BioPrint, a "lab-on-a-chip" biological diagnostic device, enables consumers to understand their skin's aging process and learn about skincare solutions that can reverse their skin's biological age. This tool won an Innovation Award at CES 2025.

New ingredients

L'Oréal has also added new ingredients to its portfolio. Melasyl is a molecule designed to treat localized pigmentation problems at the origin of age spots and post-acne marks, clinically proven to be effective and safe for all skin types. UVmune 400 is designed to effectively protect the skin against ultra-long UVA rays. 

AI and augmented devices

L'Oréal also offers augmented solutions. L'Oréal Paris Beauty Genius, an all-in-one personal beauty assistant powered by agentic AI, offers personalized diagnostics and recommendations, enabling each user to discover, understand and master the world of beauty in a simple and accessible way. Launched last year in the US, it has already generated over 400,000 interactions and will soon be available on WhatsApp.

La Roche-Posay Spotscan+Coach was developed in collaboration with dermatologists. It is the first coaching application dedicated to acne-prone skin, combining AI skin analysis with personalized routines and emotional support. Thanks to a partnership with Calm, a mental wellness app, LRP Spotscan+Coach users will have access to guided meditations, breathing exercises, sleep tools and expert content to promote stress reduction and holistic wellbeing, addressing the impact of acne on mental health.

L'Oréal Professionnel AirLight Pro, developed in partnership with Zuvi, is a revolutionary hair dryer designed for beauty professionals and consumers alike. AirLight Pro combines air, heat and, for the first time, infrared light that directly targets water molecules, accelerating the water evaporation process and enabling drying up to 21 % faster, while guaranteeing up to 55 % more hydration for shinier, smoother hair, and up to 19 % less energy consumption.

L'Oréal Paris Colorsonic, named one of Time's best inventions of the year, is a lightweight, portable device that uses an innovative, smudge-free process to mix color and apply it evenly, guaranteeing consumers consistent results at home. It will be honored in the Beauty Technology category.

L'Oréal Professionnel Water Saver, a showerhead specially designed to reduce salon water consumption by 69 %, while preserving an optimal rinsing experience, has saved more than 530 million liters of water to date, according to the group.

Marketing and social innovations

Marketing has also seen some recent innovations. CreAltech is L'Oréal's beauty content creation lab, enabling our marketing and content teams to enhance their creativity through the power of generative AI. By combining an ecosystem of models, expertise, technologies and partners - including NVIDIA, Google, Adobe and OMI - CreAltech enables marketers to generate thousands of unique, brand-compliant images, texts and videos for a variety of global platforms and audiences.

L'Oréal Groupe and Meta are partnering on the New Codes of Beauty Creator program to empower the next generation of 3D, AR and AI creators to explore new creative horizons in beauty. Our L'Oréal Paris, Lancôme and La Roche-Posay brands are engaging in these new creative territories in an unprecedented way, collaborating with a team of 50 creators capable of leveraging cutting-edge tools and techniques. Our aim is to unleash the full potential of technological creativity in a booming creative economy.

"Share & Care", L'Oréal's social innovation and benefits program, was also launched in 2013 to guarantee all L'Oréal employees worldwide social protection in line with the highest standards, including health, financial assistance and workplace support in areas such as the fight against cancer, domestic violence and the promotion of psychological safety.

Photo taken from the L'Oréal Group Linkedin page.

A natural solution to regulate skin inflammation and reduce acne lesions

Kularis

Vidya Europe, the European subsidiary of the Indian Vidya group, based in Eure et Loir (production units) and the south-west Paris region (head office, R&D center and logistics platform), is recognized for its expertise in standardized botanical extracts.

The company has unveiled Kūlaris, an innovative natural solution to regulate skin inflammation and reduce acne lesions by strengthening the skin barrier.

Kūlaris combines guggul resin (Commiphora mukul) from India, rich in guggulsterones, to konjac root extract (Amorphophallus konjac) from Japan, a natural source of glucosylceramides, for synergistic anti-inflammatory and restorative action with clinically proven efficacy.

The advantages of Kūlaris are many:

  • 4% Guggulsterone (guggul): powerful anti-inflammatory active ingredient recognized for its effectiveness on skin disorders linked to excess sebum and hormonal imbalances.
  • 0.5% Glucosylceramides (konjac): help restore the skin barrier, limit transepidermal water loss and improve skin texture.
  • Synergistic action: reduces imperfections, soothes inflammatory flare-ups, supports clearer, more resistant and balanced skin.

"Formulated without GMOs, without major allergens and 100 % of plant origin, Kūlaris meets the expectations of consumers concerned about a clean, effective and body-friendly approach."the company says.

Syensqo inaugurates its new microbiology laboratory in Lyon

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman in a white lab coat and goggles stands in a microbiology laboratory in Lyon, reaching for scientific equipment and laboratory supplies laid out on a table in front of her.

Syensqo, a global specialist in advanced materials and specialty chemicals, inaugurated its new state-of-the-art microbiology, (eco-)toxicology and biotechnology laboratory in Lyon on June 12, 2025. 

According to the company, this new facility represents the Group's largest microbiology laboratory worldwide, and is intended to serve as a reference center in this field. It strengthens Syensqo's biodegradability and (eco-)toxicology testing capabilities at the earliest stages of product development, accelerating the development of safe, environmentally-friendly products via its growth platform for renewable materials and biotechnology.

The new 550 m2 laboratory will work closely with other Syensqo laboratories around the world to enhance Syensqo's ability to meet customer needs by improving testing efficiency and reducing time-to-market. Equipped with advanced capabilities and machine learning, the laboratory will support the development of biodegradable solutions by design, particularly in the cosmetics, household products, agrochemicals, adhesives and materials markets. As part of the company's commitment to sustainability, the laboratory has been built incorporating key initiatives that have reduced net electricity consumption by 35 % and cut CO2 emissions by 36 %.

By aiming for GLP (Good Laboratory Practice) accreditation, expected in the second half of the year, the laboratory will also support product registration. What's more, with its expertise in assessing the biodegradability of a wide range of products that are usually difficult to test, it will also be able to support its customers and partners via a service model. Its biodegradability testing capacity will increase tenfold compared with 2021.

"Our new microbiology laboratory considerably strengthens our ability to create safe, biodegradable solutions.explains Thomas Canova, Head of Research and Innovation and Head of Renewable Materials and Biotechnology Growth Platform at Syensqo. Thanks to advanced testing methods, digital capabilities and increased accuracy and efficiency, we're accelerating the development of sustainable solutions that meet our customers' evolving needs."

[video] LipoTrue: the development of new, highly effective ingredients

site-industries-cosmetiques A modern laboratory equipped with LipoTrue scientific equipment and machines on white benches, glass containers, cables and screens. The wall reads "science and biotechnology". The room is clean, well-lit and focused on high efficiency and new ingredients.

The Spanish company LipoTrue specializes in the development of highly effective active ingredients for the cosmetics market. Meet the company's R&D and production departments, and look back on their two latest launches.

Research & Development

Production

Launches

The innovations of the MakeUp in Paris IT Awards soon to be unveiled

MakeUpinParis

The countdown is on for the 15th anniversary edition of MakeUp in Paris 2025, which will take place on June 18 and 19, 2025, at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris. The finalists for the IT Awards, which recognize Makeup and Skincare innovation, are now known. 

Some 62 exhibitors presented 114 new products in four categories: accessories, formulation & ingredients, full-service, and packaging. 

After rigorous evaluation and extensive testing, the jury of experts has selected 29 finalists, five of whom will receive an IT Award.  

The cross-category "Ocean Beauty" award will highlight innovations that exploit marine resources to create natural products while preserving the ocean ecosystem. Among the new products presented, 23 are competing in this category.

Visitors' favorite: the 6th IT Awards category!

On June 18, attendees will have the opportunity to vote for their favorite product from among the innovations presented in the IT Awards area. This special public award, a true reflection of current trends and emotions, will complement the official categories. The results will be announced at the end of the day, at the awards ceremony on Wednesday June 18 at 6:00 pm.

Discover the finalists by following this link:
https://www.makeup-in-paris.com/fr/programme-animations/it-awards

Silab: a new active ingredient, a natural bulwark against skin dryness

SILAB_NEOLIPYL

Developed by Silab, Neolipyl is a natural repairing active ingredient derived from cornflower that rebalances the lipid matrix of dry skin. Combined with retinol on normal skin, it also limits the undesirable effects of this molecule and supports its cosmetic benefits.

The lipid matrix ensures the skin's protective action against external aggressors. Drawing on its dual expertise in omics technologies (lipidomic studies) and optical biopsies, Silab has developed an unprecedented modeling study to establish the lipid signature of dry skin: the results show a weakening in the composition and structure of the lipid matrix. 

Tested on this model, Neolipyl rebalances this lipid matrix: epidermal lipid synthesis is restored, and their conformation and organization are optimized. 

Comprehensive repair action

Silab indicates that by targeting the lipid disorders of dry skin, Neolipyl restores the integrity of the cutaneous barrier. These effects translate into benefits observed on dry Caucasian and Asian skin after 14 days of twice-daily application: microrelief is smoothed, and skin hydration and comfort are improved. Comparative studies have demonstrated niacinamide-like efficacy.

Neolipyl is also an asset when using retinol on normal skin. Formulated in association with this molecule, the active ingredient limits its undesirable effects (dryness, discomfort, redness, etc.), without altering its anti-wrinkle efficacy. Neolipyl also significantly improves retinol's beneficial effect on complexion radiance.

A certified organic raw material 

Neolipyl has been developed from the flowering tops of the cornflower, a raw material sourced from certified organic farms in France. The proline-rich peptide fraction was extracted using a natural enzymatic engineering process.

A patented active ingredient recommended for all skin barrier care products at a dose of 0.5 to 2 %, it is available in an easy-to-formulate aqueous solution. It complies with biodiversity regulations, has a natural origin content of 100% (ISO 16128) and complies with international cosmetics regulations (Europe, USA, China, Japan, etc.).

Yves Rocher launches a solid shower gel

Yves Rocher - Solid Shower Gel

Yves Rocher continues its commitment to more responsible beauty and a reduced environmental footprint for its products with the launch of a solid shower gel. "This new reference aims to make sustainable skincare routines more accessible, while preserving the brand's standards of efficacy and sensoriality."says the company.

According to the brand, which was adopted by more than 810,000 customers in 2024, the solid care offer prevented 74 tonnes of plastic from being placed on the market over the year, equivalent to 2.5 million plastic water bottles.1.

This result illustrates the Group's strategy to reduce single-use packaging, with a target of -30 % of plastic by 2030.2. In this context, Yves Rocher is implementing other concrete levers through its "committed gestures" range which, in addition to solid cosmetics, includes some forty references with reduced plastic impact compared to liquid alternatives such as eco-refills.

Since September 2024, the brand has been testing a deposit system for glass products in three pilot stores in Rennes and Paris. The initiative already involves 70,000 customers, and collects one in ten of the products concerned.

A solid shower gel

For 65 years, Yves Rocher has been developing an offer at the crossroads of science and plants. This approach guides the brand's commitments in terms of formulation, environmental responsibility and sensorial experience. The transition to solid formats embodies this vision: to offer products that are effective, more natural and more sustainable, while making them attractive, pleasant to use and accessible to as many people as possible.

The Yves Rocher range of solid shower gels is a real success story: designed without traditional soap, it offers an alternative for delicate epidermis. Made with 92 % of natural-origin ingredients, sulfate-free, pH-neutral, manufactured in France and rated up to 100/100 on Yuka, it embodies Yves Rocher's commitment to more responsible beauty, without compromising on effectiveness, pleasure of use or accessibility.

"As France's leading beauty brand (5) and a pioneer in the solid cosmetics market, Yves Rocher plays a key role in the cosmetics sector's transition to more sober practices. By placing impact at the heart of our innovation policy, we are helping to make beauty gestures more committed, while meeting our dermo-botanical requirements. A requirement that meets our customers' expectations for products that are natural, high-performance, safe and more responsible.says Alexandra Ferré, Impact & CSR Director, Yves Rocher.

1. All solid products compared with their non-solid equivalent - sales data 2024, worldwide. Equivalent for a 1.5L water bottle weighing 28g of plastic, Citeo. 

2. In g of plastic per ml of product manufactured vs. 2019. Dermo-botanics: long-lasting, effective skincare without compromising on experience.

Photo: composition of new Yves Rocher solid and eco-refill shower gels.

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