Silab unveiled additional studies at in-cosmetics (Amsterdam, April 8-10, 2025). One of these studies concerns Oxygeskin, a natural radiance-enhancing active ingredient derived from nasturtium, which revitalizes skin oxygenation under conditions of chronological aging or digital pollution. Skin quality is improved and a healthy glow is restored. 

Effect on expression of miRNAs carried by extracellular vesicles

According to Silab, Oxygeskin reduces the expression of miRNAs that repress biological functions essential to the skin and are present in extracellular vesicles, including exosomes.

Extracellular vesicles (EVs), including exosomes, act as biological messengers, carrying proteins, lipids and nucleic acids (miRNAs) between a transmitting and a receiving cell. In cosmetics, exosomes have been shown to have anti-aging benefits, as well as regenerative and radiance-enhancing properties. In this context, Silab has chosen to explore the regulation of oxygenation by exosomes.

The results show that, when tested at 0.25 % on aged fibroblasts, Oxygeskin significantly reduces the expression of miRNAs repressing biological pathways :

• oxygenation (HIF-1α) and cellular energy production (ATP);
• essential to dermal homeostasis, such as hydration, proliferation and organization of the dermal matrix;
• essential to epidermal homeostasis, such as epidermal differentiation, proliferation and regeneration.

Cosmetic benefits in a body care product

In 2025, Silab also studied the effect of Oxygeskin on the body. To this end, the active ingredient was applied to 1 % on the thighs. After 14 days of twice-daily application, the a* parameter, characteristic of skin oxygenation, increased by 4.5 %. A significant smoothing action on microrelief was also observed (-6.3 %) and confirmed by the volunteers themselves, 89 % of whom considered their skin to be velvety (subjective evaluation). In addition, 83 % and 89 % of volunteers respectively felt their skin was more radiant and sublimated. Finally, Oxygeskin also significantly improves skin firmness for 7 %.

"These additional studies confirm Oxygeskin's position as a real breath of oxygen. The active ingredient is recommended in all face and body care products designed to revive skin radiance".says Silab.

Basf Aroma Ingredients has launched LMenthol FCC rPCF, its first reduced carbon footprint product (rPCF). Further rPCF product launches are planned to help customers achieve their ambitious Scope 3 carbon reduction targets. 

The German chemist's rPCF flavor ingredients offer a reduction in product carbon footprint of around 10 to 15 % compared with conventional Basf products. The carbon footprints of products in Basf's rPCF range are calculated in accordance with the guidelines of the "Together for Sustainability" (TfS) initiative. TÜV Rheinland has certified that the calculation method used by Basf complies with this standard.

"Bringing L-Menthol FCC rPCF to market represents an important milestone in our commitment to sustainable development, says Steffen Götz, Vice-President of Aroma Ingredients at Basf. The addition of rPCF products to our portfolio makes us the first aroma ingredients manufacturer that enables its customers to actively pursue CO2 emission reduction beyond their own premises."

Collaboration between Basf and Colgate-Palmolive

Colgate-Palmolive was one of the first customers to implement Basf's new product offering. "Colgate-Palmolive aims to achieve net zero carbon emissions by 2040, with the majority of these emissions associated with the raw materials and packaging materials we source from suppliers. The transition to Menthol with a reduced carbon footprint is the result of effective collaboration between Colgate-Palmolive and Basf teams, helping us to make significant progress towards our goal while maintaining the highest standards of product quality."says Lauren Richardson, Chief Procurement Officer at Colgate-Palmolive Company.

Mass balance approach

Basf uses a mass balance approach at its Verbund sites for the production of rPCF flavor ingredients: a defined share of conventional raw materials or utilities is replaced by raw materials or utilities with a reduced PCF. This share is allocated to rPCF products and reduces their carbon footprint accordingly.

The production process remains unchanged, enabling customers to switch to rPCF products without having to requalify. " By deploying the mass balance approach, we can improve the durability of our products while ensuring that customers can count on the same quality they're used to with our conventional products."explains Dr Cordula Mock-Knoblauch, Head of Sustainability Accelerator, Basf Aroma Ingredients.

Basf's rPCF portfolio will grow in line with customer demand. The focus will be on high-volume products because of their ability to significantly reduce our customers' Scope 3 emissions. In addition to L-Menthol FCC rPCF, Citronellol rPCF and Geraniol rPCF are scheduled for launch in 2025.

_{Photo: Basf SE - L-Menthol production plant at Basf's Ludwigshafen site, Germany, also producing L-Menthol FCC rPCF from 2024.}

STH Biotech announces the commercial launch of a bioproduct ingredient from cultivated hemp roots in vitrorich in molecules of interest to the cosmetics market. Co-developed with Inabata France, this biosourced, non-GMO ingredient boasts anti-aging properties.

French start-up STH Biotech has developed an innovative bioproduction process for hemp roots: Hairy Root. According to the young company, this process is capable of boosting the yield of active substances of interest to cosmetics (triterpenes, alkaloids). Its Sativitro platform, set up in a controlled laboratory environment, boosts the production of an alkaloid molecule with anti-aging properties by a factor of 100, compared with the agricultural cultivation of hemp seeds.

Inawave BiotecHemp, a first ingredient  extracted from this biomass produced by STH Biotech and formulated by Inabata France (the French subsidiary of the Japanese Inabata group), contains, according to STH Biotech, anti-aging active ingredients that are more effective on certain markers than resveratrol, a molecule derived from grapevines and widely used in cosmetics.

STH Biotech and Inabata France announced its commercial launch on April 8, 2025, at the in-Cosmetics Global trade show in Amsterdam.

" STH Biotech brings Hairy Root bioproduction to the cosmetics industry, promoting an innovation that ensures quality, sustainable and stable sourcing in the face of climate change. Currently raising funds, we have plans to develop other cosmetic ingredients. We are also pursuing our R&D on cannabinoids for applications in the healthcare sector, explains Héloïse Mailhac, CEO of STH Biotech. 

"Inabata France continues to expand its Inawave range of eco-friendly extracts. The association with Sativitro technology marks an opening towards the biotech range for Inabata. The results obtained are very promising: Inawave BiotecHemp combines performance and sustainability, everything the cosmetics market demands. The positive feedback we received at the show will prompt us to consider extending Sativitro technology to other plants, and to further strengthen our partnership with STH Biotech.says Pascal Plejewski, Head of sales at Inabata France.

Winners of a European Women Rising Innovators award on April 3, 2025, STH BIOTECH founders Héloïse Mailhac, CEO, and Naomi Kaminsky, CTO, are promoting this new Hairy Root bioproduction technology on the cosmetics market: according to them, a whole range of new ingredients can be developed on the basis of different bioactive compounds identified in hemp roots or derived from other plants.

STH Biotech's bioproduction process begins with germination in vitro of a hemp seed, whose seedling is brought into contact with a bacterium to be transformed into roots. The hemp roots are then grown in bioreactors in a medium containing sugar, vitamins and water. The active molecules required for the formulation of ingredients sold to the cosmetics industry are extracted from this plant raw material.

STH Biotech's non-GMO biomass meets the sustainability objectives of the cosmetics industry. Cultivated without pesticides or heavy metals, it requires 74 times less surface area and 91 times less water than conventional field cultivation. In addition to these ecological advantages, STH's technology guarantees stable costs and production, with no seasonal variability or risk of climatic hazards.