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Esxence 2025: a success!

Esxence 2025

The 15th edition of Esxence - The Art Perfumery Event, an international event dedicated to artistic perfumery, was held from February 19 to 22, 2025 in Milan, Italy.

According to its organizers, this year's event was a great success: some 13,500 participants from all over the world were able to admire a line-up of 384 brands from 38 countries, and attend several events, round tables and conferences that were also open to the public. Many young people attended the event. 

Edition after edition, Esxence has proved to be an important meeting place for discovering new trends in artistic perfumery. In terms of olfactory notes, exotic fruits - such as mango, pineapple, banana and maracuja - were in the spotlight.

Asian brands, particularly those from South Korea, Vietnam, China, Singapore and Japan, were increasingly present, taking participants on a fascinating journey through distant traditions and cultures. 

New formats for well-known fragrances were also presented, confirming a growing trend: the search for practical, easy-to-carry formats, so you can always have your favorite fragrance with you. 

Synthetic molecules, which have long suffered from a bad reputation and have sometimes been considered a taboo, are now not only fully integrated into many compositions, but are also displayed within olfactory pyramids. 

Finally, the event demonstrated that the trend is consolidating in favor of a state of inner well-being and psychophysical balance, by no longer limiting oneself to wearing a single fragrance as an olfactory signature, but changing fragrances according to one's mood.

"This 15th edition was the most successful ever, points out Maurizio Cavezzali, co-founder of Esxence and CEO of Equipe Exibit, thanks not only to the content on offer, but also to the quality of the participants, all of whom were extremely well prepared and attentive to emerging trends. This year, there was a significant improvement in stand space, with a 30 % increase in demand for bare space, a clear sign of maturity on the part of brands, who have invested even more in originality and creativity in the presentation of their products. It's not just the fragrances, bottles and packaging that shine with their uniqueness, but also the entire concept and communication, which play a central role in the creative process, telling fascinating, far-flung stories, arousing deep, engaging emotions. We had the opportunity to see a greengrocer's counter, vending machines, an old-fashioned train carriage, a beautiful antique library and walls that realistically tell the story of certain brands. "

"In 18 years and 15 editions of Esxence, we have become an essential international reference point and central event, able to offer growth opportunities to brands of all nationalities. We have nurtured new markets, with motivated retailers who have subsequently given rise to structured forms of specialized distribution.says Silvio Levi, co-founder of Esxence and director of Essencional, who organized and coordinated the workshops and conferences with the Exibit team. I'm particularly proud of this edition of Esxence, which confirms the extraordinary dynamism of the market and the capacity for innovation that will shape the sector over the next decade. In addition to being a launch and business development platform, Esxence provides visitors and operators with content, analysis and information tools, facilitating knowledge between cultural institutions, opinion leaders and ensuring constant comparison, with the aim of nurturing and evolving our market."


Esxence 2025, in brief 

  • Some 13,500 participants 
  • 384 brands, divided into 107 main brands and 277 flagship brands
  • 38 brand countries of origin (including some new entries: Thailand, Barbados, Lithuania and Latvia)
  • 17,400 m2 of exhibition space
  • 70 % of foreign exhibitors out of total number of exhibitors
  • 76 % of operators out of total visitors
  • 43 foreign operators from Brazil, China, South Korea, the United Arab Emirates, Japan, India, Mexico and the United States, thanks to the support of the ITA - Italian Trade Agency.
  • 24 conferences and meetings hosted by some of the world's most renowned experts. 

Valentino Beauty chooses Aptar Beauty's Classic Inune pump

AODValentino Beauty Collection

All seven fragrances (30 ml and 100 ml sizes) in Anatomy of Dreams, Valentino Beauty's new fragrance collection inspired by the hedonistic spirit of Rome, are equipped with the Classic Inune prestige fragrance pump from dispensing systems specialist Aptar Beauty.

site-industries-cosmetiques A transparent glass bottle of Aptar Beauty's Eau de Toilette Classic Inune, featuring a gold spray. The label features the brand and product name, with a 100-microliter capacity indicated at the bottom.

Both the pump and the stepped ring are manufactured and decorated in Aptar Beauty's French factories.

The decoration reflects the expertise of the brand, part of the L'Oréal group's luxury division, and the collection's unique fragrance stories, which evoke memories of Italy and contemporary times. The components are tone-anodized, and the push-button is adorned with a laser-engraved 'V' after the anodizing process, revealing the natural color of the aluminum.

"Classic Inune is a best-seller in our portfolio of prestige perfume pumps. It's winning over more and more luxury houses looking for high-end, high-performance solutions that can adapt to their different collection styles while preserving their brand image".says Louise Maillot, head of the Pompes Parfums Prestige EMEA platform at Aptar Beauty.

A pump compatible with customization trends 

The seven fragrances in the collection can be enhanced with two fragrance enhancers (30 ml), which can be layered or worn alone. Both enhancers use the same pump. 

According to Aptar Beauty, Classic Inune's precise spray pattern lends itself perfectly to the "layering" gesture - a growing trend among fragrance consumers who personalize their fragrances as an integral part of their identity*.

"Consumers create their own bespoke fragrances with 'layering'. Collections like Anatomy of Dreams encourage them to experiment, creating more engagement with the product. Classic Inune gives them the opportunity to personalize their fragrance by helping them mix, match and explore scents, adding precise and quick fragrance touches."says Sophie Magdelaine, Senior Marketing Manager, Global Fragrance Platform, Aptar Beauty.

Suitable for the prestige market, the Classic Inune pump features an elegant, timeless design with clean, pure lines and an SNI15 neck. With its invisible, robust mechanism, it delivers a soft, fine spray, with a short spray and a 30° angle of distribution. 

Classic Inune is compatible with a wide variety of formulas, including some without alcohol. The pump prevents any contact between juice and metal, preserving the olfactory neutrality of the non-genre fragrances in the Anatomy of Dreams collection.

Made without POM2Like the entire Inune range, Classic Inune can be recycled in the glass recycling stream (subject to local capacity).

1. Source: Mintel Report 'A year of innovation for fragrances 2024'.
2. Polyoxymethylene

Lush supports the protection of key species

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Keystone species play a crucial role in maintaining the structure of ecological communities and global biodiversity. The cosmetics company Lush intends to support the protection of these species with a new range of products: Lush Giving. The sale of these products raises funds for projects aimed at protecting key species in priority ecosystems.

The first product in this initiative, the Hutan bath bomb (whose name comes from the Indonesian word for "forest"), launched in mid-March and available in stores throughout the month, will help preserve the primary rainforests of Simeulue, Indonesia, a vital habitat for many endangered wildlife species such as the crab-eating macaque. 

75% of the sales price (excluding tax) of this bath bomb - made from revitalizing bergamot oil, sourced from citrus growers in Calabria with whom Lush has collaborated for over ten years - will be donated to EcosystemImpact, a non-profit foundation in Indonesia that studies environmental conversation issues in Sumatra. 

EcosystemImpact will be working with. local organizations, including the Long-Tailed Macaque Project, to run a three-year project focused on protecting the primary forests and rich biodiversity of Simeulue Island.

The funds raised will support work to monitor the forest, establish regenerative agriculture and combat poaching and human-crab macaque conflicts on the island.

"Protecting wildlife and its natural habitat is more than preventing its extinction; it's preserving planet Earth as a home where we can, together, live side by side".explains Silvi Dwi Anasari, Community Ranger Coordinator for the EcosystemImpact Foundation.

A natural emollient and preservative booster 100 %

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Chemoxy, an affiliate of Seqens Personal Care, part of Seqens, a global player in pharmaceutical synthesis and specialty ingredients, has developed AdvensProtect 2-EHG Green, a naturally-derived ethylhexylglycerin, at its UK manufacturing site.

AdvensProtect 2-EHG Green is totally biosourced and offers a number of benefits. This multifunctional ingredient improves skin softness and hydration. It also acts against odor-causing bacteria and adds value to deodorant and personal hygiene products (deodorant effectiveness).

As a preservative booster, AdvensProtect 2-EHG Green meets the growing expectations for sustainability and performance in the skincare industry, reinforcing traditional preservatives and other antimicrobial substances.

The advantages of the AdvensProtect 2-EHG Green formulation are manifold:

  • Clear liquid.
  • Soluble in oil, miscible in water.
  • Independent of pH and temperature.
  • Ideal for cold processing.
  • Reinforces other traditional and multifunctional preservatives: AdvensProtect PHE, AdvensProtect 5 Green, AdvensProtect 8 Green and more.

"AdvensProtect 2-EHG Green has similar efficacy and activity to its synthetic counterpart, making it the perfect replacement."says Seqens.

Shelf life: two years, when stored under the conditions recommended in the safety data sheet. After this period, the product may be retested for a shelf-life extension if necessary.

Photo: DanielaElena / Pixabay

A new ingredient derived from tomato seed waste

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Native Extracts, Australia's leading specialist in phytotechnology, and Kagome Australia, one of the largest tomato processors in the southern hemisphere, collaborate to present Red Velvet Oil: an upcycled active beauty ingredient derived from surplus tomato seed waste. 

This high-performance "active" oil, packed with lycopene, phytosterols and fatty acids, offers skin care, wellness and oral care benefits.

According to the two partners, with 12mg/100g of lycopene, an antioxidant twice as effective as beta-carotene, Red Velvet Oil offers anti-aging, moisturizing and skin barrier benefits. Its profile positions it as a next-generation alternative to basic products such as Bakuchiol and Rose Hip Oil, responding to today's consumer demand for high-end, eco-sensitive products.

"This partnership illustrates Australia's most ambitious recycled ingredients initiative, the successful results achieved by forging collaborations between producers and industry, and the power of recycling waste into high-value ingredients, offering ethical brands new options to meet the demands of the growing conscious consumer culture. says Lisa Carroll, founder and CEO of Native Extracts. Red Velvet Oil is more than a beauty ingredient; it's a statement about how the Reduce, Reuse & Repurpose sustainability movement and science can come together to create real change and innovation. It's the birth of the Upcycled ingredient revolution in Australia, on a global scale, and it's not over yet."

Transforming waste

The two partners point out that Australia produces 7.6 million tonnes of food waste every year, costing the economy $36.6 billion*. Kagome Australia recovers by-products from over 200,000 tonnes of processed tomatoes each year, using the latest recovery technologies. Native Extracts is also committed to eco-friendly manufacturing, creating hydrophilic cell extracts from reused by-products and rainwater, saving 1,000 liters of public water every day. Its innovative methods reflect its commitment to minimizing waste and adopting sustainable practices.

This initiative aligns with Australia's national food waste strategy and the global circular beauty movement, to illustrate how agricultural waste can become high-value ingredients that will contribute to sustainable practices.

"Consumers increasingly want products that align with their values, explains Lisa Carroll. Red Velvet Oil helps ethical brands meet their commitment to transparency, traceability and responsible ingredient sourcing."

Red Velvet Oil will be presented at in-Cosmetics Global, to be held in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, from April 8 to 10, 2025.

*Source: https://www.dcceew.gov.au/environment/protection/waste/food-waste

Photo: esiuL / Pixabay

Seppic offers a natural version of its Geltrap technology

Seppic offers a natural version of its Geltrap technology

To meet market expectations in terms of naturalness, Seppic explored the possibility of formulating a natural version of its patented Geltrap technology.

Geltrap is a technology creating a cold-formulated gel-in-oil emulsion that can be obtained with low-shear equipment. Extra-rich in water, it offers different viscosities but also the ability to stabilize all types of oily phases and provides an emollient feel, protection against dehydration and water resistance. It also offers advantages for specific applications, such as easier styling in hair care and long-lasting scent in fragranced cosmetics.

Seppic's objective: to retain the benefits of this technology for formulators and consumers while replacing the synthetic rheology modificator and emulsifiant that were originally recommended. 

The important internal aqueous phase is thickened with Solagum GM, a non-ionic gum of 100 % natural origin.1 derived from Glucomannan. On the other hand, the weak outer oil phase is stabilized by a liquid glycolipid emulsifiant system containing Fluidanov 20X, a multifunctional liquid co-emulsifiant also of natural 100 % origin.1.

Solagum GM is extracted from the tubers ofAmorphophallus muelleria tropical plant also authorized in China according to the STSC2. According to Seppic, it provides additional thickening and moisturizing properties, with a pleasant, soft and comfortable feel on the skin.

site-industries-cosmetiques The diagram illustrates GELTRAP™ technology, similar to an automatic draft for formulations. A magnifying glass reveals two distinct phases: an oily phase (8-20 %) in yellow and an aqueous phase (80-92 %) in blue, accompanied by water molecule diagrams. Percentages and key components are clearly indicated.

Seppic will be presenting its new technology in "Formulating bar" sessions at the In-cosmetics show in Amsterdam from April 8 to 10, 2025 (stand 5D110).

1. 100 % natural in accordance with ISO 16128

2. Safety and Technical Standard for Cosmetics 2015

With Cosmogen, Babytika sun cream can be applied with a brush

site-industries-cosmetiques A child applies Babytika sunscreen to his cheek using a stick applicator at the beach. The background shows blurred sand, buildings and a blue sky. The child has short brown hair and squints slightly under the sun.

Thanks to its brush tip, Babytika SPF50+ sun cream has an applicator that makes it easy and fun for children and parents to use without touching their hands. 

Cosmogen is behind the Squeeze'n Tint tube-applicator. The tube features Cosmogen's patented On/Off rotating closure system, allowing the formula to be extracted (On), applied and then closed again tightly (Off). The brush is washable in soapy water.

The Squeeze'n range had already attracted Mimitika's attention for a sun protection product designed for athletes. Since then, it has been completely redesigned so that the pack components can be separated for recycling, and the nozzle reused on another tube. Cap, tube and brush are available in recycled materials.

Verpack: durable, refined boxes for Maybach fragrances

Verpack - Maybach Eau de Parfum

Asked by Mercedes-Maybach to design the boxes for its perfume collection, the Verpack group created a high-end cardboard packaging with an elegant, innovative design. Particular attention was paid to the interior and exterior layout, including the wedge, the box's centerpiece.

Each of the six fragrances is presented in an ivory box, embossed with the emblematic Maybach logo. The sleek box features a bowl and lid fitted with a concealed groove. This ingenious system ensures a closure that both protects and enhances the bottle and its carved wooden base.

Luxury, innovation and sustainability

site-industries-cosmetiques A perfume bottle adorned with the Maybach logo on the glass, and with a brown leather case at the base, recalls the elegance of a Brouillon car. Placed against an open white box, it reveals its intricately designed interior compartments.

Inside the box, a custom-designed, thick cardboard wedge holds the bottle and its wooden easel. This support also acts as a display stand, allowing the bottle to be displayed like an objet d'art. The lid also incorporates a custom-made wedge, following the contours of the interlocking parts for optimum protection.

The exterior of the box features silver hot stamping and offset printing, protected by a varnish. Subtly designed embossed borders surround the space reserved for the label bearing the name of each fragrance.

Made from recyclable materials, the box combines innovation and durability. It embodies the brand's commitment to eco-responsibility, while meeting high standards of practicality, sturdiness, aesthetics and refinement.

B Corp Beauty Coalition: goals for a more responsible cosmetics industry

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The B Corp Beauty Coalition (B Beauty) - which includes nearly 100 B Corp-certified cosmetics brands operating in North and South America, Asia, the Pacific and Europe - is committed to shaping a more sustainable future for the global cosmetics industry.

At its Annual General Meeting on January 29, 2025, it defined three major objectives for the next five years. These objectives focus on best practice innovation, knowledge sharing and raising awareness of the sector and consumers. The idea: to pool resources to make the cosmetics industry more transparent, inclusive and responsible.

The first objective is to draw on the collective expertise of B Corp Beauty Coalition members to create best practices in cosmetics production and packaging, and to seek innovative solutions for managing packaging waste and the industry's carbon footprint. The transition to safer ingredients, while advancing renewable purchasing and agriculture, is also encouraged.

The second objective is to create an exchange platform for members, encouraging collaboration and the sharing of ideas to amplify their impact. Events and networking opportunities will strengthen the community and raise awareness of the consortium.

The third objective is to extend the coalition's impact beyond its members by raising awareness and educating stakeholders. The aim is to build a collective voice influencing public policy and educating consumers to make more responsible purchasing choices. To achieve this, external partnerships will need to be established to support research and develop practical tools.

"At the heart of the B Beauty Coalition is a strong commitment to a cosmetics industry based on inclusion, collaboration and sustainability. We are convinced that the industry can and must contribute to the common good. Thanks to the collective effort of our members, we are moving forward with courage and responsibility. With nearly 100 committed brands, we now have a vision, a voice and a clear roadmap for action."says Tim Eaves, Supervisory Board member and Group representative. Quadpack/Texen consortium.

Photo : Silvia / Pixabay

Perfect Corp. and Inovshop bring AI to Amazon's first parapharmacy in Milan

Perfect Corp. Miror AMZ

Amazon's first parapharmacy integrates self-service mirrors equipped with iPads to enable skin diagnosis thanks to Perfect Corp.'s AI solution, for an experience combining technological innovation and personalized advice.

Perfect Corp, a company specializing in artificial intelligence (AI) and augmented reality technologies applied to beauty and fashion, has teamed up with Inovshop Group, which offers an ecosystem of specialized expertise, solutions and services covering the needs of retail, to integrate its AI skin analysis tool, Skincare Pro, into self-service interactive mirrors within Amazon's very first parapharmacy in Milan, Italy inaugurated on February 12, 2025. 

By collaborating, the two partners are innovating in retail by rethinking the customer experience, offering AI-driven skin diagnostics with intuitive product engagement features.

Perfect Corp.'s Skincare Pro application, accessible in a dedicated area of the parapharmacy via interactive mirrors specially designed by Inovshop Group and equipped with iPads, enables customers to obtain a personalized consultation of their skin. The tool analyzes 15 distinct skin concerns to generate a customized skin condition report. Thanks to this real-time analysis, Amazon teams can suggest personalized products tailored to customers' skin needs.

" Our partnership with Inovshop illustrates how technology can transform the customer experience by bringing personalized skincare solutions to a unique retail space."said Alice Chang, CEO and founder of Perfect Corp.

The alliance of AI and physical commerce

Inovshop is committed to connecting digital and physical commerce. By integrating Perfect Corp. technologies with its own retail digitalization solutions, the company is creating a dynamic, immersive environment for Amazon's first drugstore. Thanks to the Place & LearnIn this way, customers can simply place a product on a surface equipped with sensors to instantly display the relevant information, facilitating their shopping experience.

" Our mission is to bridge the gap between physical and digital commerce. Thanks to these advanced technologies, we are redefining the way customers interact with products and brands, while offering solutions that enable first contact with the customer and facilitate the work of on-site sales teams. "said Rémi Rouane, VP International and General Manager Digital, Inovshop Group.

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