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New biodegradable guar-based polymers for beauty care

The Solvay group extends its range of biodegradable ingredients with two guar-based functional polymers for eco-responsible hair and body care products.

Solvay, a global specialist in naturally derived beauty care polymers, completes its range of guar-based biodegradable solutions presented in December 2021, with two new polymers - a thickener and a conditioning agent - for beauty care. These new ingredients - Jaguar NAT SGI and Jaguar Excel, will enable beauty brands to meet the most stringent global regulations, and satisfy consumers' growing needs for more responsible and sustainable beauty products.

"Until recently, the availability of biodegradable functional polymers was limited, explains Jean-Guy Le-Helloco, Vice President Home & Personal Care at Solvay. With our biodegradable ingredients in the Jaguar range, formulators now have ingredients that enable them to expand their range of more responsible hair and body care products."

In addition to the new biodegradable ingredients for the Jaguar range, Solvay's experts have developed the "Beauty Biodeg Score" which grades its products from A to D based on OECD guidelines.1. The two new polymers meet the most demanding criteria2 in terms of biodegradability: Jaguar NAT SGI, a thickener, achieves an A rating (classified as "readily biodegradable"); Jaguar Excel, a conditioning agent, achieves a B rating (classified as "inherently ultimately biodegradable"). They complete the product range, which already includes Jaguar HP-8 COS SGI thickener and Jaguar C500 STD conditioning agent, both rated B. Typical applications include shampoos, conditioners, hair treatments, styling gels, shower gels and body scrubs. They will be presented on the Solvay stand at the in-cosmetics world trade fair from April 5 to 7 in Paris.

"By assigning a biodegradability rating to our products, we help our stakeholders appreciate the rapid progress Solvay is making in developing biodegradable and sustainable products with full and transparent traceability. adds Galder Cristobal, Director of Home and Personal Care Research and Innovation at Solvay. We have entered an unprecedented phase of innovation with these new biodegradable polymers. And we are investing in advanced biodegradation tests for new-generation cosmetics ingredients. The new biodegradable ingredients in the Jaguar range mark the beginning of this adventure.

The guar beans used in the manufacture of Jaguar polymers are a renewable natural resource, sourced in part from Solvay's Sustainable Guar Initiative (SGI) in Rajasthan, India, which aims to :

  • implement best agricultural practices to improve guar quality and secure its supply, while preserving the water resources needed for its cultivation
  • enable farmers to earn a better living
  • encourage women's emancipation at local level.

Solvay's commitment to sustainable beauty is at the heart of Beauty for the Planet, an initiative that aims to provide sustainable beauty ingredients, suitable for consumers and the environment, through innovation and partnerships with customers.

  1. Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development. 
  2. Complies with OECD 301 F and OECD 302 B guidelines.

Responsible landfills 

L'Oréal has received a PCD award for its 3D Pouch Elvive Color produced by Arcade Beauty. The global specialist in sample and single-dose solutions for perfume and beauty is supporting the group in the strategic optimization of its refills, to limit single-use packaging and reduce plastic. 

Elsève's Elvive Color Vive Protective refill in mono PE is recyclable, and allows a material saving of 75 % compared to two 250 ml shampoo bottles. 

Latest launch to date, Arcade Beauty manufactures for Kerastase professional hair products a 500 ml eco-refill in six references. This one promises this time a saving of 82 % of plastic.

Manufactured and packaged by Arcade Beauty

Arcade Beauty ensured the production of the six references as well as the packaging of the products on one of its European sites.

After Elsève, Garnier and dermocosmetic brands such as LRP, L'Oréal confirms its expectations, this time on professional care.

Albéa rewarded by EcoVadis with gold level, a first site obtains the platinum medal

For the third time in a row, the Albéa Group's commitment to corporate social responsibility (CSR) and sustainable development has been rewarded by EcoVadis with the Gold level.

In 2021, Albéa has launched a program to intensify the deployment of CSR at each of the group's industrial sites. The effective implementation of this program in the 35 sites is evaluated by EcoVadis.

Among the plants recently evaluated, Albéa's center of expertise for plastic tubes in Tortona, Italy, received a platinum rating, the highest distinction and a first for the group. Four other Albéa sites were also evaluated, and all scored above 65/100. In Mexico, Queretaro (Tubes) achieved Gold and Matamoros (Cosmetics & Fragrance) Silver; in Poland, Lodz (Tubes) achieved Gold; and in Indonesia, the Semarang site (Cosmetics & Fragrance) achieved Silver.

"Our goal is to have all of our sites assessed by 2025says Gilles Swyngedauw, Vice President for Sustainable Development and Innovation. Our teams around the world have implemented the EcoVadis program with great enthusiasm and are implementing many effective local CSR initiatives. This year, our Tortona plant has set the bar very high, which is an encouragement for the future."

The EcoVadis assessment supports the group's ambitious CSR goals and commitment while promoting transparency with all business partners.

Orlandi creates an eco-friendly single-dose hand gel for Maison Caron

Maison CARON has decided to offer six of its fragrances in disinfectant scented hand gels to extend the perfuming ritual. It asked its in-house perfumer Jean JACQUES to adapt the formulas of these fragrances to create this new range, available in 6x45ml boxes and 200ml bottles. 
To promote this collection, Orlandi and its partner V-Shapes have produced a single-dose product that combines technical prowess and eco-responsibility. A first in the world of sampling. 

V-shapes, an exclusive single-dose, certified eco-responsible 

This unique sample has recently benefited from Tomra verification and Interseroh certification, two benchmark bodies for recyclability in the industry. This innovation rewards several years of research into packaging solutions that integrate responsible waste management. 
The single-dose V-Shapes, designed to be recyclable, is made of single-material polypropylene. The challenge was to design an aluminum-free barrier tight enough to accommodate and preserve the alcohol in the scented gel solution. This has now been achieved. Fans of Maison Caron will now be able to discover the 6 fragrances in single-dose form: Pour Un Homme, Aimez-Moi Comme Je Suis, Rose Ivoire, Vétiver Infini, Narcisse Blanc and Eau de Rocaille. 
With its PP monomaterial single-dose, Orlandi takes another step towards the eco-responsible development of its product offering. Previously used for its cosmetics offer, Orlandi can now integrate its V-Shapes mono-dose and provide its customers with a real solution for premium, eco-responsible perfume sampling. 

Spectrums Europe launches a new range of phytocannabinoids

"CBD heralds a small revolution in the beauty and wellness fields. However, its development is not without a certain amount of confusion. How pure are the products on offer? What is the actual dosage? How do they comply with current regulations? Optimaceuticals was born of a militant desire to offer phytocannabinoid solutions whose quality criteria are set out in complete transparency, says Spectrums Europe. Optimaceuticals solutions are distinguished first and foremost by their purity: the highest concentrations of active ingredients, an absence of THC measured to 2 decimal places (0.00 %) and an absence of impurities guaranteed at 10 control points".

The natural origin of CBD guarantees its isomeric purity and therefore optimal efficacy. Obtained from industrial hemp grown organically in the USA, Optimaceuticals active ingredients are Cosmos, Natrue and Vegan Society certified.

Market-ready solutions

"To ensure the greatest operability of our ingredients, the Optimaceuticals range has been carefully thought through by application. The XB grades of the Optimaceuticals beauty line have undergone in vitro and in vivo evaluations to support your product claims. The XN grades of the Optimaceuticals nutrition line have been the subject of Novel Food dossiers submitted in January 2021 and declared valid by the European authorities in February 2022. "says the company.

Three first references launched at in-cosmetics 2022

  • Optima CBD

The range's flagship product, Optima CBD is over 99% pure cannabidiol %. Its efficacy has been in vitro and in vivo with results on sebum regulation, modulation of inflammatory response, soothing properties tested on skin and scalp, and bacteriostatic activity.

  • Optima CBG

Less well known to the general public, CBG (cannabigerol) is the precursor of all phytocannabinoids. An initial series of in vitro tests showed its remarkable activity in controlling sebum and modulating inflammatory response.

  • Optima Broad Extract

Offering a CBD concentration of over 85 %, it also contains other phytocannabinoids of interest such as CBG (cannabigerol), CBE (cannabielsion) or CBC (cannabichromene), and a fine terpene profile.

These two references are the subject of novel food dossiers submitted in January 2021 and declared valid by the European authorities in February 2022. EFSA's opinion is awaited in

U'Cosmetics: three winners

On March 17, 2022, UCO Bretagne Nord in Guingamp organized the 13th edition of U'Cosmetics, a student competition and professional symposium, this year implemented on the theme of "Professional cosmetics: innovation at the service of practice."

The objective for contest participants was to propose an innovative product or concept that met an expectation or need of wellness and beauty professionals ́ institutes, hair salons, barbershops, spas, thalassotherapy centers, nail salons, etc. To achieve this, they were able to reflect on finished products, textures, application rituals and protocols, not forgetting marketing and communication aspects.

The choice of theme was intended to highlight professionals who have been particularly affected by the health crisis, by inviting players in the cosmetics sector (brands, manufacturers, ingredient suppliers) to discuss their needs and issues.

Among the 10 finalist teams, the most innovative projects were rewarded with four prizes:

  • Formulation Innovation Prize
  • Innovative Concept Award
  • Jury's Favourite Award
  • Special Philippe Collas Internet users' favourite award

Prix Innovation Formulation, and Prix Phillipe Collas :
Powdhair: Université Catholique de l'Ouest Bretagne Nord de Guingamp - M1 Ingénierie des produits et des process cosmétiques, project led by Lucie Chapel, Julie Kerebel, Enora Le Clech, Blandine Mitault and Rose Moan.
"Powdhair aims to create a range of five natural hair care products in powder form for professional hairdressers. The range includes three shampoos tailored to the customer's specific needs, a scalp scrub and a powder mask."

Innovative Concept Award:
Elix'Hydre: School of industrial biology - 2nd year engineering course Project led by Alice Paquier, Clara Peigneux, Julie Petitfour and Manon Pizzinato. 
"Our company Yanapay offers a post-tattoo care kit with a "second skin" effect, called Elix'Hydre, which meets ecological, practical, technical and microbiological stability criteria. The kit consists of two products: a moisturizing gel and a gel-fixing spray."

Jury's Favourite Award :
Sõn sweet: Université de Rennes 1 - Master Biologie-Gestion Project led by Manon Bouchet, Eva Bougeard, Enora Brandily and Nolwenn Girot.
"In these times of health crisis, socio-aestheticians are faced with a lack of sensitivity due to the need to wear gloves during treatments. Sõn Sweet proposes new hand protections that give the illusion of skin-to-skin touch and can provide added sensory value."

See you in 2023 for the 14th edition of U'Cosmetics. The theme? "Sport and cosmetics.

Anjac Health & Beauty strengthens its position in North America and its pharmaceutical activities

Anjac Health & Beauty (Anjac) has announced the acquisition of Pillar5 Pharma (Pillar5), a leading CDMO specialized in the production of sterile ophthalmic solutions and niche solid forms (tablets, capsules, etc.). This operation confirms Anjac's international expansion and extends its healthcare offering with a new ophthalmic range to serve local and international brands and laboratories. This is Anjac's second major operation in 2022, following the merger with Apollo Healthcare last January.

Pillar5, CDMO a key player in the sterile ophthalmology market in North America.

A Canadian company, Pillar5 is one of North America's leading CDMOs for the production of sterile ophthalmic solutions and solid forms (tablets, capsules, etc.) Pillar5 is a pioneer and the only CDMO to offer innovative ophthalmic solutions on the North American market, namely preservative-free sterile multidoses.

An independent company since 2009, Pillar5, based in Arnprior, Ontario, offers a complete range of services, from product formulation and manufacture to packaging customization and technical services. With a diversified and loyal customer portfolio, Pillar5 supports major pharmaceutical companies as well as ophthalmic care specialists.

The company has 150 employees and sales of $CAD 50 million.

A unique entrepreneurial dynamism

With Pillar5, the Anjac group signs its 9ᵉ acquisition in five years, and sees its overall sales reach almost 650 million euros following this operation, doubling in the space of three years. Each new acquisition represents an opportunity for the Anjac Group to extend its range of services in specific fields, while leveraging their complementarities. The Anjac Group now comprises 14 expert companies, with 22 R&D and manufacturing sites.

"We are delighted with this strategic acquisition, which will enable us to expand into a key new segment, the ophthalmic market, and more specifically into the high value-added innovation of preservative-free, multi-dose sterile ophthalmic solutions.explains Aurélien Chaufour, President of the Anjac Group.

"We are delighted to be joining a family-owned industrial group that will support us in our ambitious expansion plans. We have already identified synergies, notably with international customers who can be supported by Pillar5 and other companies in the Anjac group".says Dwight Gorham, President and CEO of Pillar5.

Shiseido adopts manufacturing 2.0 solutions

Dassault Systèmes announces that Shiseido Company, Limited, an international manufacturer of beauty products founded 150 years ago and present in 120 countries, has signed a multi-year license agreement to implement its manufacturing operations management solutions at the group's main sites worldwide. In order to meet the expectations of consumers, who have shown such enthusiasm for its skincare and wellness products during the Covid19 pandemic, Shiseido wants to be able to implement more efficient production systems that resonate with its customers and contribute to brand loyalty.

The deployment of the "Perfect Production" solution based on Delmia Apriso applications and Dassault Systèmes' 3DExperience platform will support Shiseido's "Win 2023 and Beyond" digital transformation acceleration strategy, enabling the group to focus on improving plant productivity and reducing costs.

The "Perfect Production" solution and Delmia Apriso application will enable Shiseido to unify and standardize the management of its manufacturing operations, as well as the best practices implemented at its main production sites in Japan, Europe, the USA and other countries. According to Dassault Systèmes, by helping Shiseido improve end-to-end planning and optimize its operations, this unified collaborative virtual environment will increase operational performance, productivity and profitability, and help resolve manufacturing issues without affecting product quality. In addition, improved production flexibility in different regions will enable Shiseido to allocate its production resources with greater precision, maintain product quality and meet demand locally and worldwide.

"The pandemic has shown us that for a large number of consumers, skincare and wellness routines are a priority. By 2030, we aim to become a global leader in the cosmetics and personal well-being market, helping our customers to express their beauty and develop their well-being throughout their lives, says Atsunori Takano, General Manager of Information Technology (CTIO) for the Shiseido Group. We are convinced that Dassault Systèmes' leadership position in the cosmetics sector and the value its technology can bring to our manufacturing operations will fully support our growth strategy."

"As consumers' shift towards wellness accelerates across the globe, major players in the cosmetics industry will need to bring innovative new products to market faster than ever. With the 3DExperience platform, global manufacturers such as Shiseido have a real-time virtual manufacturing environment that gives them the agility they need to do more with existing factories and accelerate different aspects of manufacturing to expand the range of cosmetics and personal wellness products they offer their customers", says Philippe Loeb, Vice President of Consumer Products and Distribution at Dassault Systèmes.

Soon the fifth edition of the Olfaction & Perspectives conference

Nearly 200 participants and some 15 speakers are expected to attend the 5th edition.e edition of the "Olfaction & Perspectives" conference organized by Cosmetic Valley in partnership with Isipca, the leading national and international school for the perfume, cosmetics and aromatic food industries. The conference will be held in Clichy La Garenne, in the Boucle Nord Seine area, which has been a partner of the cluster since 2019 and is home to major players in the perfume and cosmetics industry: Givaudan, l'Oréal, Albéa, Pochet, Procter & Gamble, Arkema, Eugene Perma, etc.

Edition 2022: 4 topical themes

La 5e edition of the "Olfaction & Perspectives" conference will take stock of the impact of Covid in the field of olfaction: its symptoms, recovery methods, but also the way in which brands have adapted their sales practices. In connection with this theme, several presentations will analyze the management of an odor-free environment.

In addition to Covid, the congress will look at how brands are managing the natural trend that is so essential today, and what a natural scent means to the consumer. Another hot topic is artificial intelligence, which can now be used to develop fragrance products. Participants will be able to exchange points of view with various experts. 

Congress 2022 themes

  • What impact does COVID have on Olfaction?
  • Good smells and bad smells: our daily benchmarks...
  • Does natural have a specific scent?
  • Artificial intelligence and olfactory creation: relevant?

Read more

Stoelzle Masnières Perfumery signatures

On March 2, to coincide with the presentation of his fall-winter 2022-2023 women's collection at Paris Fashion Week, Belgian designer Dries Van Noten unveiled his beauty collection of fragrances and make-up.

Creative director of the brand that bears his name, Dries Van Noten joined the Puig Group in 2018. Passionate about flowers, which he has long cultivated in his Antwerp garden, it is therefore, as he likes to say, in "creative ping-pong" with 10 perfumers that he has realized his dream and expressed his ethical and artisanal vision through this superb line of 10 genderless Eaux de Parfum.

The brand has entrusted Stoelzle Masnières with the exclusive creation of these refillable glass and decorative bottles, in the image of Dries Van Noten's world of contrasts and mastery of color.

This collaboration between the development teams has enabled us to meet several challenges:

  • Develop 10 decor versions for each fragrance. 8 bottles were lacquered and 2 powder-coated (exclusive STO/Quali Glass Coat 2.0 process): Raving Rose and Santal Greenery.
  • Fit a new "watchmaker" type ring with notches.
  • Provide several solutions for gluing the shells to ensure perfect adhesion for each of the beautiful materials chosen for these 10 projects: porcelain, wood, metal, resin, which make these bottles decorative objects.

Refillable 100 ml bottles - to enable refilling, a key is sold to unscrew the pump kit, along with a funnel.

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