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Texen supports its partners in their sustainable innovation efforts

In 2021, to meet Chanel's environmental requirements, Texen is adapting its industrial process. The company is proposing to work with RPET, a material derived from the recycling of PET plastic bottles, and is making its agile Smart lines available to automate and optimize production.

Thanks to the polycondensation* process, Texen was able to design a new, eco-responsible cap for Chanel's Le Lift and Hydra Beauty skincare lines, which retains the same mechanical and sensory properties as the original.

As part of the global approach shared with its partner to reduce environmental impact, this cap contains a black colorant specifically developed to make the part detectable by optical sorting, thus facilitating recycling and enabling better management of the product's life cycle.

The modularity and versatility of the Smart lines ensure Chanel a controlled production process. By managing the entire design process, Texen can manufacture the raw material and produce a finished, varnished piece in less than 20 minutes.

* Polycondensation is a chemical reaction that rebuilds molecular chains broken during the recycling process, enabling them to become polymers again. Polycondensation restores the basic mechanical and chemical characteristics of the finished product, guaranteeing its edibility.

SGS France integrates Idea Tests

SGS France confirms the closing of the Idea Tests acquisition announced last October.  

The Idea Tests group, established in 1999 by Benoit Latouche, specializes in the evaluation of effectiveness (in vivo and in vitro) of tolerance, toxicology and microbiology, as well as regulatory support for the marketing of finished products and cosmetic ingredients. Idea Tests' skills naturally complement SGS France's "Cosmetics & Hygiene" offering. Idea Tests has three sites in France (Martillac, Talence, Plouzané) and one in Europe (Bucharest), and employs 80 people.

"France is the 1er cosmetics exporter, ahead of Germany and the United States. SGS is the world leader in testing, inspection and certification. This targeted acquisition, which enhances our offer dedicated to the quality and performance of cosmetic products, was one of our key priorities in satisfying our French and European customers, whether they are raw material manufacturers, industrialists or distributors. Idea Tests is still one of the largest independent players capable of mastering all aspects of testing (in vitro, microbiology and clinical trials); the synergies with our group are innumerable, in terms of complementary service offerings and customer presence".says Alain Guy, President of SGS France.

 "We share SGS's values of customer satisfaction and innovation. Joining a group like SGS marks a new and exciting stage in our development.concludes Benoit Latouche, President of Idea Tests.

MS BeautiLab expands to North America and appoints Shannaz Schopfer as General Manager

Olivier Salaun, CEO of MS BeautiLab, appoints Shannaz Schopfer as Managing Director North America. This announcement marks the continued implementation of the company's Pulse 2025 strategy through international expansion, and positions MS BeautiLab's global service offering to the North American market.

Shannaz Schopfer has 20 years' experience in production, strategic planning and innovation. According to Olivier Salaun, " Shannaz will lead our North American activities, offering our complete range of vertically integrated solutions, including customized development for individual customers. "

To support these initiatives, Shannaz Schopfer has appointed Maria Barbieri to the position of Senior Vice President of Sales. During her 20-year career, Maria Barbieri has managed packaging, products, operations, logistics and sales, working closely with blue-chip beauty companies including Intercos and Estée Lauder.

Specializing in skincare, colors and powders, MS BeautiLab offers brands global, turnkey solutions focused on innovation, sustainability and European quality. As the beauty division of the Swiss Marvinpac Group, MS Beautilab offers a unique global package, including not only the development and production of formulas and packaging, but also a complete marketing proposition for both product and packaging design.

Generating over 100 million euros in sales, the company has a current production capacity of over 6,000 tonnes and a total worldwide footprint of over 45,000 m2, divided between production units and R&D laboratories in France, Switzerland, Italy and the Czech Republic.

In 2022, MS BeautiLab will open an R&D laboratory in Los Angeles, and Shannaz Schopfer will soon be recruiting to support business development and operations in the USA.


Key dates

  • 1964 Strand Cosmetics Europe is born
  • 1999 Birth of Marvinpac
  • 2009 Creation of the Marvinpac CZ subsidiary in the Czech Republic
  • 2015 Strand Cosmetics Europe and Marvinpac create the joint venture MS Swiss Cosmetics
  • 2018 Marvinpac acquires a stake in Strand Cosmetics Europe
  • 2020 Strand Cosmetics Europe and Marvinpac create MS BeautiLab
  • 2021 Creation of the Group Chief Executive Officer Marvinpac, entrusted to Olivier Salaun; Expansion in the United States with Shannaz Schopfer as General Manager.

Photos
Left: Shannaz Schopfer
Right: Maria Barbieri 

Cosmetic ingredients and biotechs: Cosm'ing will be held on December 7 and 8

On December 7 and 8, Biotech Santé Bretagne will be bringing together over 150 researchers and industrialists involved in cosmetics for the 9th edition of Cosm'ing. A benchmark event in the field of cosmetic ingredients and biotechnologies, Cosm'ing offers an in-depth analysis of the latest technological advances (bioprocesses, cell cultures, omics technologies, etc.), while promoting meetings between players and the emergence of innovative projects.

The sea and biotechnologies as sources of inspiration

How can we continue to innovate and draw inspiration from the living world without depleting biodiversity? How can we take account of climate change objectives in the development of cosmetics? What if the answer lay in Brittany and the oceans, which are still far from having revealed all their secrets?

In this field, Brittany, which is home to 50 % of French maritime research, a high concentration of innovative players in marine biotechnologies (grouped within the Capbiotek network run by Biotech Santé Bretagne) and algae fields that are unique in Europe, is an abysmal source of inspiration for the future of the national and international cosmetics industry.

In an industry where naturalness is at the heart of concerns, successive speakers at Cosm'ing 2021 will address questions such as: How to move from biosourcing to biomimicry? How to protect bioinspired innovations? What (bio)technological tools are needed for bioproduction and traceability of active ingredients? How can we improve skin microbiota? What role can phages play in cosmetics? What's the link between cosmetics and emotion?

The 31 renowned speakers (academics, biotech startups, active ingredient suppliers, finished product brands) will be sharing their knowledge and advancing the debate on the contribution of biotechnologies to cosmetics.

At the heart of a favorable regional context

With 2,470 km of coastline and a leading position in marine biotechnologies, Brittany is an ideal location for innovation and the development of its cosmetics industry, supported by Biotech Santé Bretagne.

The sector in Brittany represents: more than 150 Breton companies in the cosmetics sector, nearly 6,000 jobs and sales of 1.8 billion Euros. 50% of oceanographic research is based in Brittany, and cosmetics is one of the 6 levers of the "health and well-being for a better quality of life" Strategic Innovation Area of the regional S3 (2021-2027).

A new competition: "amazing discoverers

This year, it will also be an opportunity for young researchers (PhD students) to shine in front of an audience of specialists with the first edition of the "étonnants découvreurs" competition organized by Biotech Santé Bretagne in partnership with the GDR CNRS "Cosm'actifs" research group. The six candidates shortlisted by the scientific committee will come from all over France to present their thesis topic in 180 seconds...

Cosm'ing 2021 in figures

9th edition, 150 participants, 31 conferences, three poster sessions (22 posters), a prize for the best poster, an "astonishing discoverers" competition, seven partner exhibitors and dozens of B2B meetings.

Coverpla takes part in the rebirth of Via Dei Mille fragrances

Via Dei Mille is the rebirth of a family story that began in Sicily in the 50s. Stefano Alderuccio, the founder's grandson, pays tribute to the rare essences of Sicily, to its traditions now brought to life by the talent of perfumer-creators from Grasse. The fragrances in the Ianco collection express themselves in the whiteness whose name they have taken from an old Sicilian dialect, and in the subtle arabesques embossed on the box's paper.

Baroque poetry

Coverpla had the pleasure of sharing in this family adventure, taking charge of the packaging for all three fragrances. The brand chose the Laura bottle (100 ml) designed by Coverpla and created by Bormioli Luigi. Its sleek, round shape, both straight and powerful, is enhanced by a matte black Vintage chapé cap decorated in a single pass of silkscreen. Coverpla also supplied the pump and pump cover for the overall development.

The Ellen MacArthur Foundation places L'Occitane en Provence among the most committed brands

The Ellen MacArthur Foundation has published its 2021 progress report on theGlobal Commitment to the New Plastics Economy which measures the progress made by signatory companies, governments and other organizations in the plastics circular economy. On the strength of its convincing results and ambitious targets, L'Occitane en Provence is one of the most committed brands in this field, assuming a leading role among companies in the cosmetics sector. 

"This award means a great deal to us. It confirms the validity of our plastic management strategies and actions, and at the same time encourages us to do even better," comments David Bayard, Packaging R&D Director. 

Since 2019, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation has published its annual report Global Commitment to the New Plastics Economy. It provides a benchmark for measuring progress in the plastics circular economy. Thanks to key data (such as packaging volumes or recycled content share), it provides an unprecedented level of transparency. In particular, signatory companies are committed to eliminating "problematic" packaging and increasing the use of recycled plastics fivefold between 2019 and 2025. The Foundation is also calling for more action on disposal, reuse and innovation, as well as the development of circular practices to avoid waste and pollution. 

Cultivating change 

L'Occitane en Provence is convinced that consumption and regeneration are inextricably linked. This is why, as an international cosmetics company, it assumes the role of "cultivator of change", guiding its actions at every level, right from the packaging design and production phase. 
By signing theGlobal commitment to the new plastics economy In 2019, L'Occitane en Provence must be transparent and strive to surpass itself. Thus, between 2018 and 2025, the brand aims to achieve an overall share of 40% of recycled plastic in everything it produces - this proportion currently stands at 21.4% - as well as a 10% reduction in the total annual weight of plastic used (regardless of the growth of its business). The brand has also set itself an ambitious target 3 x 100% by 2025 : 
- 100% plastic bottles from recycled materials 
- 100% of recyclable, reusable or compostable plastic packaging 
- 100% of its own stores offering a recycling service. 

Three areas of intervention 

The objectives of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation are fully in line with L'Occitane en Provence's commitment to waste reduction, whose actions are implemented in three areas. 

Reduce - reduce waste and improve product lifespan 

In general, L'Occitane en Provence is seeking to do away with single-use and superfluous plastics. For this reason, it has committed to reducing the total annual weight of plastic used by 10% by 2025, and to completely eliminating cellophane from its products by 2022. 
Similarly, the group offers shampoos in solid form - an alternative cited as an example by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation in the first section of its report. Dedicated to the elimination of plastics, this is the NGO's most decisive area of action. 
L'Occitane en Provence is also reducing waste by gradually rolling out "bulk fountains" internationally from 2021, extending the brand's commitment to combining simplicity and innovation. From among five iconic products, customers select the desired refill volume (250ml or 500ml) and fill their bottle Forever made from lightweight, recyclable 100% recycled aluminum. These eco-designed fountains save 94% of plastic compared with conventional packaging. 
Finally, L'Occitane also offers 25 of its own bestsellers eco-refills: packaging that uses on average 85% less plastic than a conventional bottle, saving around 200 tonnes of plastic every year. By 2025, 100% recyclable ecorecharges will improve these results. 

Recycling - towards a circular economy 

In addition to these actions, the brand has been using bottles made from 100% recycled PET for 10 years for its Aromachologie hair care range. The 300ml and 500ml liquid soap bottles are also made from 100% recycled plastic. In the L'Occitane catalog, 65 references are made from 100% recycled plastic. 

Reacting - encouraging the responsible and sustainable use of plastics 

L'Occitane's commitment to the environment extends beyond its own value chain, by joining forces with the most innovative companies and organizations in the fight against environmental pollution. To this end, it is involved in avant-garde and committed projects such as the Plastic Odyssey expedition, SPICE and BeMed. 
In June 2021, the Group joined more than 150 players linked to the packaging sector (companies, NGOs, experts, associations) in responding to the call for producer responsibility (EPR - Extended Producer Responsibility) launched by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. In particular, this initiative aims to commit them to implementing mandatory, fee-based collection systems to cover costs and, in fine, sort and recycle packaging in a circular economy. 

The start-up Lyophitech raises funds to accelerate its industrial development

Founded in 2017 by Jean Delaveau, Lyophitech invented and patented a new freeze-drying process. The Lyon-based company increased its capital last September by raising €570,000 from around 20 business angels. This financing will enable the company to structure its industrial tool and accelerate its commercial development, particularly in the food, cosmetics and health markets.

Lyophitech revolutionizes an old process in favor of a faster, simpler and more economical dynamic freeze-drying. The invention democratizes a process allowing to enhance the naturalness of ingredients, by preserving their organoleptic and nutritional qualities and their active ingredients. The liquids are returned in the form of beads, this format is easy to handle, less volatile, and also improves rehydration compared to powders.

This round of financing comes at a time when Lyophitech wants to accelerate its development and production volumes. The company has had a 50-liter pilot unit for 24 months. The funding will allow the company to sponsor, for a total investment of €2.7 million, the construction of three new machines and to move into industrial premises in western Lyon (with a controlled atmosphere environment). The company currently has a team of nine employees and will move from R&D to industrial production in April 2022.

This first round of financing of 570 k€ was carried out with business angels, half of whom are members of the Hara network (Health Angels Rhône-Alpes). The arrival of these new regional investors in the capital will allow the company to support the industrial deployment in the first quarter of 2022 and the creation of new jobs. Since the beginning of the school year, Lyophitech has already recruited four people for the positions of sales manager, sales representative, QSE manager and electromechanical programmer.

By the end of 2021, positions for laboratory technicians (microbiologists), process engineers, workshop managers and office managers will be available. In 2022, operators on the industrial processing lines will be added to these positions. Lyophitech's ambition is to recruit a total of thirty employees by 2025. Indeed, the market potential currently amounts to 60 billion euros for 8 % of growth and the company expects a turnover of 700,000 euros in 2022 and 6.5 million euros by 2025 (for a volume of 750 tons dried annually).

"This fundraising is a necessary turning point that will allow us to finance our development from R&D to the industrial production phase. The challenge is to scale up the company and exploit our technology, which is now mature, by investing in high-performance production tools. We are enthusiastic about the idea of entering this new stage of the project and we already have other avenues for development. We are planning to increase the number of machines to six, to expand in France, to develop other patents, etc."explains Yann Neymarc, General Manager of Lyophitech. And he adds: "Market expectations are very high because the static technology and equipment currently available in the market is saturated. We have a lot of incoming requests from the different sectors we are targeting, and we look forward to being able to meet them."

Dior trusts Cosmogen's expertise

Dior has put its trust in Cosmogen's expertise by selecting the Tense Tube for Capture Totale Super Potent Eye Serum. Its ergonomic metal applicator is ideal for the eye contour area, avoiding contact between the face and the hand. 

Cosmogen's Tube Tense is patented packaging, available in recycled plastic, with a removable, reusable applicator. "An Expert Beauty solution."

For over 35 years, Cosmogen has been the world expert in innovative, patented application solutions for cosmetics brands. Its expertise is recognized in four complementary fields: packaging with integrated applicators, brushes, application accessories and dispensing, for skincare, make-up, fragrance and hair.

Its ID "Innovation & Development" department detects and anticipates market trends to develop innovative, patented products centered on the expert application of cosmetic formulas, aimed at creating a new consumer experience or acting on efficacy and usage.

In line with its CSR approach, 100 % of Cosmogen's innovations respect at least one of the 5Rs: Reduce, Recycle, Renew, Refill, Reuse. This translates in particular into packs and applicators that can be dismantled, recycled and/or refilled. 100 % of the team have been trained by the eco-design division in the requirements of CSR in innovation, and Cosmogen has developed in-house software to analyze the life cycle of its products.

Cosmogen has been awarded a silver EcoVadis rating and has completed its carbon footprint assessment, together with an action plan to reduce its footprint. Cosmogen is present in Europe, North America, Latin America and Asia to support its customers in their projects, guided by a strong motivation: Innovate to inspire.

TiL, a beauty and wellness brand made with linden, relies on regional support

To support its development, TiL has chosen to open up its capital to regional financial investors on a minority basis. 

As local roots are at the heart of the brand they founded, Odile Polette, president of TiL, and her sister Sylvie Polette, general manager, wanted to be surrounded by local economic players in their round table discussion.

TiL Charente-Périgord Expansion, a private equity subsidiary of Crédit Agricole, has joined the company's capital in order to support them in the next stages of the brand's development, in France and abroad, as well as business angels from the Périgord region, partly from the beauty sector.

"As a local player, concerned with the regeneration of the local economic fabric by young, innovative and daring companies, we are very proud to be able to join the adventure, alongside the TIL team and business angels particularly experienced in the world of luxury, cosmetics and perfumery. The project's strong regional roots, combined with the great professionalism of the men and women behind it, were decisive for CPE.says the Charente-Périgord Expansion.

Launched in September 2021 by Odile and Sylvie Polette and their partner Bertrand Tupin, TiL is "a premium beauty and self-care brand for skin, body and mind." It is made from the lime tree harvested in the family estate of the Polette sisters, in the heart of the Périgord-Limousin Regional Nature Park, in the Dordogne.

After four years of research and development conducted with scientific experts in the beauty industry, TiL cosmetics meet the high expectations of well-being, authenticity and traceability following health crises.

Beyond the opening of its capital, TiL has received, since its creation in mid-2020, the full support of various regional public authorities with subsidies from the New Aquitaine Region, the regional BPI, and loans from Périgord Développement and Initiative Périgord. Thanks to this territorial commitment, TiL now has the means to match the brand's development ambitions.

Manager of regulatory affairs for perfumes and cosmetics: focus on the Specialized Master's degree

Students from EBI's Specialized Master's in Management of Regulatory Affairs for Perfumes and Cosmetics and its partner Isipca will be taking part in the "Perfumes & Cosmetics - Regulatory Challenges" conference in Chartres on December 1 and 2. An opportunity to shed light on this little-known profession, which is nonetheless essential for consumer protection and international trade.

Little known to the general public, the job of regulatory affairs manager is of vital importance, as it ensures the safety and conformity of perfumes and cosmetics before they are put on the market. Cosmetics regulations are constantly evolving, to ensure that products are safe for human health: improving the environmental and societal performance of products via the Green Impact Index, guaranteeing consumer safety by ensuring harmlessness and compliance (endocrine disruptors, microplastics, allergens, mutagens...), integrating regulatory issues (biodiversity, recycling, industrial impacts, responsible sourcing...), anticipating changes in economic policies (regulatory requirements, import-export, technical customs barriers, international tensions) are all topical subjects that these professionals need to integrate perfectly and update regularly.

The Specialized Master in Management of Regulatory Affairs for Perfumes and Cosmetics, accredited by the Conférence des Grandes Ecoles and run by EBI - École de biologie industrielle (a private engineering school of general interest, specializing in the application of biotechnologies to the health, beauty, diagnostics and food sectors, and the ecological and societal transition), co-supervised with Isipca (a school of the CCI Paris Ile de France, and a national and international reference in the perfume, cosmetics and aromatic food industries), opens the door to a wide range of safety and regulatory professions in all areas of the cosmetics sector: from raw materials supplier to distributor in the perfumery and cosmetics fields. The two schools bring their respective skills to bear in their areas of expertise. EBI's teaching is based on the expertise of its professors, mainly in raw materials, toxicology, skin physiology and management. Isipca teaches regulations and perfumery. This year, students in this MS program will have the opportunity to take an active part in the national "perfumes & cosmetics - regulatory issues" conference in Chartres, in order to keep up to date with the regulations that concern them, to dialogue with official national and international authorities, and to meet their future colleagues working in companies.

Fully involved in the congress, they will be in charge of writing up the reports on the presentations made during the two days of conferences on the latest topics in the profession.

Organized since 2003, this congress is a European benchmark. It brings together the perfumery and cosmetics industries, ingredient manufacturers, suppliers and professional federations. On this occasion, and as every year since the creation of this congress, the MS students who have completed their course will receive their diploma at the end of the congress.

Training reform to meet international requirements

Because international regulations are increasingly stringent, EBI has updated this course in 2020, rolling it out to 80 % in English, 100 % by distance learning. International candidates can enroll via the "n+i" network, a consortium of some 50 French engineering schools that enables foreign students to find specialized training tailored to their career plans.

"We came up with this Specialized Master's program almost 10 years ago, and are proud to run it with our partner Isipca. In Chartres, all the players in the industry who take on our students as end-of-study interns, and hire them by giving them international responsibilities from the outset, are present and act as mentors and recruiters to our students. Cosmetics companies are determined to market effective products that respect consumers, biodiversity and the environment. Regulators are attuned to these current and emerging trends. They play the fascinating role of mediators between marketing, R&D, quality and production, always defending ethics and sustainability. Many of our engineers, Master's alumni and future Bachelors meet up every year at this congress and become mentors for each young graduate who chooses this profession", explains Florence Dufour, EBI General Manager.

Candidates with 5 years' higher education can follow this course directly after their studies, or after two semesters of professional experience, to acquire skills and expertise in the regulatory and safety aspects of ingredients and raw materials used in perfumes and cosmetics. The courses are taught by professionals and experts from numerous partner companies, including: Guerlain, LVMH, Christian Dior, Laboratoires M&L-L'Occitane, Chanel Parfums Beauté, IFF, Symrise, Laboratoires Ingrid Millet, Johnson&Johnson Santé Beauté France, Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique, Carrefour Beauté.

The course is completed by a 5-6 month internship research project. Students from the last graduating class have gone on to become regulatory affairs managers at a number of companies, including Alban Muller, Umanis, Groupe MUL, Pierre Fabre, Occitane and Delphic HSE Safety & Regulatory Solutions.

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