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Food preservation & cosmetics: similarities and levers for improvement

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques Save the date: Food preservation and cosmetics - similarities and levers for improvement.

Preservation is a major issue in the cosmetics and food sectors. However, these two sectors are not subject to the same constraints, whether regulatory or technical. 

The cosmetics industry is now facing strict regulations concerning its ingredients, particularly via the lists of authorized natural preservatives, which are being reduced year after year. The food industry, on the other hand, is continuously seeking to increase the shelf life of its products while also reducing chemical preservatives. 

Consumers' expectations are the same in both sectors: more natural, healthier and more transparent products.

Having neither the same issues, nor the same products, the two sectors are currently advancing in parallel on the improvement of preservation, but could be a source of inspiration for each other. Thus, the objectives of this day will be to identify the different issues and solutions to improve preservation on the one hand, and to allow the transfer of technologies and skills between the food and cosmetic sectors on the other hand.

See you on September 30th in Lyon!

Pre-program

Morning of lectures:

  • Introduction and context of the day
  • Conservation at the raw material level: post-harvest techniques
  • How to rethink the formulation
  • Conservation by biopreservation
  • Combination of effects: Hurdle approach
  • The use of active packaging

Afternoon: BtoB meetings between all participants.

Full program & registration to come.

Marc-Antoine Jamet re-elected President of Cosmetic Valley

By
The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques Marc-Antoine Jamet re-elected President of Cosmetic Valley, seated in front of a blue wall.

Meeting in the "Grand Amphi" of the University of Orléans on June 29, at the heart of the competitiveness cluster, Cosmetic Valley's Annual General Meeting opened with the re-election of Marc-Antoine Jamet, General Secretary of the LVMH Group, as Chairman, unanimously elected for a further three-year term.

For his third term, the President of Cosmetic Valley will be responsible for promoting national coordination of the French perfumery and cosmetics industry. Today, Cosmetic Valley federates 800 companies, including most of France's major groups and 80 % of SMEs and VSEs, representing all French territories, both in mainland France and overseas, and all the industry's trades: ingredients, processes, packaging, testing, finished products, etc.

With sales of 45 billion euros and 246,000 jobs, Cosmetic Valley claims to embody the values of the "French brand" in perfumery and cosmetics: innovation, performance, product safety, respect for the environment, authenticity of ingredients. The driving force behind a sector that provides France with its second-largest export balance and is a world leader in an increasingly competitive market, Cosmetic Valley emphasizes its ability to create a genuine "industrial fabric" linking major groups and SMEs, private and public players, laboratories, universities and training establishments. The cluster has a strong European and international dimension, and participates in various EU programs. This ecosystem is the world's leading network for cosmetology research.

"I still get the same pleasure out of embodying our unity with public authorities, in the regions, in front of central administrations, and on the international stage, said Marc-Antoine Jamet. The confidence that my peers continue to place in me is an inexhaustible source of pride. We have, it seems to me, collectively grown in strength and legitimacy, moved our issues forward together, and diversified our actions. Of course, we still have many challenges ahead of us. In particular, we must face up to the four major transitions - ecological, technological, economic and digital - which the health crisis has not created, but rather exacerbated. This year has therefore been marked by our resilience and the resumption of our factories and workshops. It must continue with our determined involvement in the revival of growth and jobs in our country. Because we want to ensure our future performance through concrete advances, we are adapting today not only our tools - I'm thinking of the 400 million euros of collaborative projects underway - but also our governance, with directors who reflect even more the diversity and wealth of our members. I expect them to play an active role, and to commit to being our ambassadors, in France and around the world. I am delighted that, in a period of decisive transition, they have decided to renew their confidence in me for a further term at the head of Cosmetic Valley.

Omnisens and GM Group: new line of hospitality products with sustainable materials

By
editocom
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site-industries-cosmetiques Table, skin care products

GM Group, one of the international leaders in hospitality products, is launching its new hotel line with the renowned Omnisens brand. Celebrating an active collaboration since 2009, this line of custom hospitality products will be available worldwide through GM Group's extensive distribution network.

The new line enriched with white tea extracts is inspired by the Fraicheur Tonique universe. The formulas, with subtle notes of Green Tea and Bergamot, contain up to 98% of ingredients of natural origin. Inspired by a fertile nature where fragrances, natural ingredients and exceptional textures intermingle, Omnisens awakens the senses and helps to fill up with vitality. Since its creation in 2008, Omnisens has been extending the Esprit Spa well-being to the home with the "Spa at Home" experience and invites everyone to enter their "Garden of the Senses".

https dmscdn.vuelio.co 1- Packaging - Product Info

Featuring Ecopump dispensers in a generous 300 ml size, made from sugar cane and 400 ml Ecofill dispensers manufactured at 100 % from recycled plasticFor the hair and body gel and for the liquid soap, the Omnisens range of hospitality products is fully compliant with the Care About Earth of GM Group. With the launch of this line, GM Group continues its commitment to develop products that minimize its impact on the environment, thus contributing to environmental sustainability for generations to come.

Laurent Marchand, president of GM Group, said, " We are delighted to be working with Omnisens. Fueled by a deep sense of well-being and the richness of nature, we believe this next collection of hospitality products is ideally suited to the needs of guests. It also respects the values of our Care About Earth program. After 12 years of collaboration with Omnisens, we look forward to launching this new line of hospitality products in hotels around the world. "

The new collection offers a wide range of hospitality products, including a shower bath gel, hair and body gel, shampoo, conditioner and body lotion, available in 30 ml tubes, at 90 % biobased from sugarcane. Hospitality products are also available in 50 ml bottles 100 % biobased from sugarcane. A 20 g soap, a 30 g massage soap and a 40 g exfoliating soap complete the line, as well as 30 g of bath salts, a 30 ml hand cream and a 20 ml dry oil Thé Tonique.

The range also offers Ecopump 300 ml sugar cane dispensers for liquid soap and hair and body gel.

Liquid soap and hair & body gel are available in a refillable and traceable 400 ml Ecofill dispenser, made from 100 % recycled and recyclable plastic with an 8 g recyclable bag. The Ecofill dispenser is a permanent system, the bottle stays in place, only the pouch needs to be changed.

Finally, the hair & body gel, liquid soap and conditioner are also available in 375 ml Ecosource, an exclusive vacuum technology that avoids the use of preservatives in their formulas. The sterile vacuum refills are made from only 11.7g of plastic, offering a unique combination of quality, ecology, innovation and safety.

More on the web : groupgm.com

Arcade Beauty develops its first all-PE eco-refill for L'Oréal

By
The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques Two elvive hair care products on white background with eco-refill.

Arcade Beauty develops its first all-PE eco-refill designed to be recyclable. A perfect illustration of Arcade Beauty's eco-design approach, the 3D Pouch generation offers a host of advantages. These L'Oréal shampoos come in the form of an all-PE eco-refill, lighter than a plastic bottle. A first for the group.

Elvive Color Vive Protective shampoo protects color-treated hair, while Dream Length shampoo cares for long, damaged hair. For its development, the brand wanted an eco-refill with low environmental impact. Arcade Beauty has therefore developed a 3D Pouch in 100 % PE, for which the brand can claim material savings of 75 % compared with 2 bottles of 250 mL shampoo. This eco-refill can be recycled in flexible PE recycling channels where the infrastructures for collection, sorting and recyclability exist locally.

Eco-innovation

Produced at one of the Group's European sites, this totally leak-proof pack comes with a choice of screw cap or service cap. Depending on format (from 30 ml to 1 liter), it is fitted with a gusset to enable it to stand upright.

Now available in single-material PP or PE (including the closure system), the 3D Pouch is part of the Group's global CSR initiative, which aims to offer 100 % of products ready for recycling by 2025.

Xavier Gagey takes over from Tristan Farabet as CEO of Groupe Pochet

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetiques Tristan Farabet's successor, Xavier Gagey, poses for a photo.

Xavier Gagey appointed Chief Executive Officer of Groupe Pochet and member of the Executive Boardfrom September 1, 2021. 

He will take over from Tristan Farabetsince 2014 to modernize the Group's organization, infrastructure and operating methods, and to place it at the forefront of competitive excellence in the service of customers and a strategy for a sustainable future. On the strength of the fundamental progress achieved, the Group's positioning on new 4.0 technologies, a strengthened team of talents, an enriched value proposition notably on the CSR dimension and well-oriented performances, the Group can now open a new sequence in its history and Tristan Farabet move on to new personal projects. 

A graduate of the Ecole Nationale Supérieure d'Electricité (SUPELEC) and with an MBA from EDHEC, Xavier joined the Pochet Group and its Executive Committee in 2018, as General Manager of the Flaconnage division, with a long and rich experience within the Arcelor-Mittal/APERAM Group, both in France and internationally. Over the past 3 years, together with the Flaconnage teams, he has led a marked improvement in the industrial performance of this historic Group division. 

Irène Gosset, Chairman and shareholder of Groupe Pochet, would like to join the Group's Supervisory Board and shareholders in "warmly thanking Tristan for his decisive action on behalf of the Group over the last 7 years, and for the significant progress he has made, which today enables us to look to the future with confidence and to open a new page in the Group's history with Xavier, whose proven talents will benefit all the Group's activities". We wish Tristan every success in his future endeavors. 

[review] Product testing reinvents itself

By
editocom
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site-industries-cosmetiques A magazine page with a photo of a product in a store.

The need for sustainable design, health requirements, digital integration, regulations... In just a few months, a combination of major factors has accelerated the redefinition of product testing in-store or at home. Across all beauty segments, brands, distributors and suppliers are working to reinvent the discovery experience, while responding to changing consumer expectations.

This is the theme of the June 2021 issue of the magazine Industries Cosmétiques. To find out more, and to understand how these issues are being taken on board by manufacturers today, we asked journalist Kristel Milet to tell us how she came up with her article... Listen to it immediately on the podcast. Cosmetalks or to read with the review n°30.

Givaudan Active Beauty unveils Zanthalene, an active ingredient that mimics the properties of botox

By
The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A plate with a variety of dishes.

Givaudan Active Beauty presents Zanthalene, a natural modulable active ingredient developed by green fractionation, with botox-like efficacy in modulating skin sensitivity. Created from Zanthoxylum bungeanumZanthalene, commonly known as Sichuan pepper, is a cosmetic ingredient derived from the spice and capable of acting on neuromuscular communication within the skin structure, offering aging effects and soothing benefits depending on its concentration in formulas.

All consumers eventually experience the effects of aging on the skin, such as wrinkles and sensitivity. However, many do not wish to reverse these effects through invasive treatments. 

According to a study conducted on behalf of Givaudan Active Beauty186 % of consumers are interested in beauty products containing natural ingredients that help soothe skin discomfort while smoothing it out for a botox-like effect.

Giada Maramaldi, category manager for personal care at Givaudan, said: " Each facial expression activates a large number of muscles. Over time, as collagen production declines, these expressions become even more pronounced and embedded in the skin, leading to the formation of wrinkles. To combat these effects, Zanthalene offers a neurocosmetic strategy that relaxes facial muscles in a safe, reversible and natural way, adding a feeling of comfort while eliminating skin discomfort."

Made from Sichuan pepper, a plant widely used as a spice in Asian cuisine, Zanthalene is extracted from its fruit husks using supercritical CO2. Givaudan Active Beauty claims that its efficacy has been proven in several clinical studies: at low doses (0.5 %), Zanthalene is able to reduce skin discomforts such as itching and sensitivity, bringing a soothing effect to the skin in just a few minutes.

At a higher dosage (1 %), Zanthalene shows an immediate, visible reduction in skin roughness parameters in just 30 minutes, and long-term efficacy over 30 days. The body continues to react even after regular use of the product, creating a virtuous circle of improvement.

According to Givaudan Active Beauty, zanthalene is therefore a perfect ingredient for the formulation of beauty products targeting tired skin, aiming for a refreshed appearance and an immediately visible effect.

With over 80 % of consumers willing to buy a concept formulated with botox-like active ingredients, the brand's experts came up with an inspiring marketing concept: Sensilift, a cream based on Zanthalene. Thanks to Vetivyne, Centerox and rose seed oil, which regenerate and plump the skin, this highly natural anti-aging cream is also enriched with Jambu, which energizes the skin and provides a stimulating, moisturizing, comforting and soothing effect.

1 Zanthalene, Global online survey - Givaudan Active Beauty - May 2021

[review] When cosmetics integrate hormonal variations

By
editocom
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site-industries-cosmetiques A magazine with a photo of a woman in a bikini.

Cosmetics and hormonal variations. It's a subject that doesn't come up all that often, yet it's one that affects cosmetics consumers. Menstruation, pregnancy, menopause: hormones have an influence on skin quality. Cosmetics manufacturers are beginning to incorporate this into their products. This is the Zoom of June issue of Industries Cosmétiques.

And to fully grasp what's at stake in this article, we asked journalist Kristel Milet to explain how she went about it. Listen to the podcast Cosmetalks and to read with your review n°30.

Cannabis and cannabinoids technical day: feedback and call for ideas

By
The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A table displaying a bottle of cbd oil and a cbd plant at the Cannabis and Cannabinoids Technical Day.

More than 120 participants gathered on July 1, 2021 to attend the 2e technical day of the year, organized by the Innov'Alliance cluster and devoted to hemp and cannabinoids. At the Palais des papes in Avignon, a succession of experts and interprofessions discussed this highly topical, high-stakes subject.

Marion Pillot and Marion Segui, the cluster's project managers, opened the day's proceedings by outlining the main themes of the event. Frédéric Favrot, Managing Director of Koppert France, then pointed out that "the Innov'Alliance cluster had a duty to take the lead in this area.

A varied lecture series

Sponsored by Koppert France, Ledeven, Richel Group, Robertet Group, Vegetal Grox Development and our distribution partners ABC Chanvre and Cosmed, the day was organized around four main themes.

The morning session focused on "Varietal selection" and "Hemp and Cannabis production". The afternoon focused on "Extraction of molecules of interest and scientific rationalization of mechanisms of action" and "Application: challenges and development of innovative products".

A call for hemp project ideas

Echoing the enthusiasm generated by this technical day, Innov'Alliance is launching a call for project ideas around hemp, for which the cluster is inviting all interested parties to come forward before September 30, 2021.

The aim is to encourage the emergence of innovative projects based on hemp and cannabinoids across the entire value chain, from raw materials to finished products, in the agricultural, cosmetics, nutraceutical and food sectors. The aim is to encourage initiatives that promote sustainable innovation in the targeted sectors, and help develop a new range of ingredients, finished products, technologies and services in response to consumer expectations.

"Cannabidiol (CBD), hemp's flagship molecule, is gaining increasing interest among the French population for its many properties. Despite the legislative grey areas that remain in this sector, the development of cosmetics, food, nutraceuticals and wellness products containing CBD or its derivatives is today an area of innovation with high stakes (production, efficacy, analysis, quality monitoring, traceability, etc.)", says Innov'Alliance.

According to the Union des Industriels pour la valorisation des extraits de chanvre (UIVEC), the market for hemp extracts in France is estimated to be worth 700 million euros in the first year in the event of regulatory changes concerning CBD-containing products.

Find out more about the call for ideas :
https://pole-innovalliance.com/categorie-fr/actualites/projets/appel-a-idees-de-projets-autour-du-chanvre-faites-nous-part-de-vos-innovations

The theme of Innov'Alliance's next day of conferences is: "Food preservation & cosmetics: similarities and levers for improvement". Join us on September 30 in Lyon! Although the two sectors have neither the same challenges nor the same products, they are currently working in parallel to improve preservation, and could be a source of inspiration for each other. The objectives of this day will be to identify the various challenges and solutions for improving preservation, and to enable the transfer of technologies and skills between the food and cosmetics sectors.

Find out more about the next day of conferences:
https://pole-innovalliance.com/events/journee-conservation

VPI signs the connected spray cap for Paco Rabanne's Phantom perfume for men

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetiques A chrome robot perfume bottle with black lid, designed by VPI for Paco Rabanne's Phantom men's fragrance.

In 2021, with Phantom, Paco Rabanne goes even further to seduce a highly connected generation, revealing a stunning bottle.

PHANTOM, the very first connected and refill perfume

A major partner to the perfume industry, VPI (Faiveley Plast Beauty) is renowned for its packaging expertise.
For its latest men's fragrance, Paco Rabanne worked closely with VPI. The French company, which specializes in the injection and assembly of aesthetic plastic parts, produced the brand's spray cap, the first connected fragrance to shake up conventional practices with a surreal robot design.

A challenge for a surprising creation

VPI takes the world by surprise with its ultra-fun connected spray cap, designed to create unprecedented customer experiences. The interaction between Paco Rabanne, VPI and STMicroelectronics in the development of this atypical fragrance has enabled us to achieve the level of precision and perfection set by the brand.
This spray cap combines an attractive metallic finish with the integration of an NFC (contactless communication) microchip in the robot head, all in a 3-piece footprint for the 100ml and 150ml bottle caps. 

" For addicts, Phantom's 150 ml format is both spectacular and refillable. "says the brand. VPI and PUIG have designed a refillable system with sensory unscrewing and reassembly, guaranteeing perfect solidity and product life.

By bringing your smartphone close to the top of the bottle, you can freely discover the whole Phantom universe (games, playlists...) A welcome spray in the "Paco Galaxy" that becomes your everyday companion.
With this emblematic, high-profile launch, VPI is breaking new ground with the very first integration of a microchip in a fragrance, for an even more creative digital dimension combined with refillability. 
VPI and the Faiveley Plast Group are fully pursuing their strategy of supporting brands in their ecological and digital transition.

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