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Croda acquires Alban Muller, the natural active ingredients expert

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The editorial staff
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Croda International Plc ("Croda"), which uses intelligent science to create high-performance ingredients and technologies to improve life (Smart science to improve lives) today announced the acquisition of Alban Muller International.

With annual revenues of €18 million for the year to June 30, 2020, Alban Muller is a leader in the creation and supply of botanical and natural ingredients for the global beauty industry. This acquisition expands Croda's portfolio of active ingredients for customers in the cosmetics sector.

Founded in France in 1978 and now employing 90 people, Alban Muller is renowned for its eco-responsible approach to developing innovative botanical extracts, natural formulation ingredients and organic cosmetics.

With its emphasis on locally sourced raw materials, it fits in perfectly with Croda's Beauty Actives business, represented by Sederma and Crodarom, companies also based in France.

This acquisition gives Croda access to some of the most innovative technologies on the botanicals market, including Zeodratation, an energy-efficient drying technology that preserves the most sensitive active ingredients.

With Alban Muller recognized as a market leader in sustainability, this acquisition will strengthen Croda's extensive portfolio of biobased ingredients and confirms its commitment to becoming the most sustainable supplier of innovative ingredients.

This transaction gives Croda's customers access to high-tech natural active ingredients, while enhancing Alban Muller's future growth through access to Croda's international sales network and formulation expertise. Maarten Heybroek, Croda Consumer Care President explains: " We have admired Alban Muller's CSR strategy and extensive know-how for many years, and are delighted to welcome the team to the Croda family. The acquisition of Alban Muller strengthens Croda's position as a world leader in natural and botanical actives, and helps us to meet the growing demand from customers for ingredients of natural origin to enhance the sustainability profile of their products. "

Mr Alban Muller adds: "I'm delighted to be handing over to Croda to further extend the eco-responsible approach I've been advocating for so many years. Croda is the ideal partner to increase the growth of natural products, strengthen our expertise and give us access to new markets. I'm sure that this association will stimulate future developments in natural ingredients that will be of great benefit to consumers." 

The transaction is subject to the usual pre-closing conditions and is expected to close by the end of the first quarter of 2021.

Visit our websites:
www.crodapersonalcare.com
pro.albanmuller.com

Very green hoods

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The editorial staff
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From the outset, Coverpla, a turnkey perfumery specialist, has stood out for its injected surlyn caps without inserts. Today, the Nice-based company is diversifying its range of caps with the aim of being 100 % eco-responsible.

Since its first hood collections, Coverpla has been working with molds whose impressions allow the part to be clipped directly onto the pump cover. These covers, most of which are injected in surlyn, have thus become perfect candidates for recycling.

But to meet the demand for diversification, Coverpla and some of its partners have developed hoods in aluminum, zamac, wood or other resins, requiring the presence of an insert.

On the move

In line with its commitment to eco-design, Coverpla is looking into single-material hoods and removable inserts.

In particular, the company is taking advantage of innovations from its Spanish partner Pujolasos to expand its range with an exclusive hood model made from FSC wood with a compressed cork insert, or a PP part whose insert can be easily removed by the consumer for recycling.

Countdown to recyclability

Coverpla's forthcoming Too-Doo and Torrid wooden hoods will both feature a cork insert. Then, almost all the wood hoods in the catalog will have a cork insert.

Last but not least, Coverpla has developed a special mold that will soon enable it to produce a hood in biosourced PLA-type material, 100 % biodegradable. 

Further developments will follow in response to customer requests.

Wauters, winner of the PM'up competition

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The editorial staff
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Winner of the PM'up competition for the second time, Wauters, a specialist in packaging for perfumery, cosmetics and spirits, joins the select circle of companies with high development prospects recognized by the Paris Region. This institutional support, which fewer than 1,500 companies have received in almost 10 years, will enable Wauters to accelerate its growth over the next three years.

After being selected and then audited, the Île-de-France Region jury validated the development project presented by Wauters on the basis of the following criteria:

  • business viability
  • strategy relevance
  • job creation potential
  • international development potential
  • the project's contribution to development in the Paris region
  • respect for environmental and social issues

Innovation rewarded

For over a century, Wauters has been innovating in a pioneering spirit, placing its development strategy at the heart of its ecosystem, taking into account people, production facilities and the environment.

"The project presented by Wauters responds to a dual desire to combine the performance of our industrial facilities with the challenges of corporate social responsibility. Innovation is essential if we are to keep pace with market needs and remain creative and competitive in the field of high quality. Investment accompanies our transformation, from our equipment to our development, including the pursuit of our digitalization. We are proud today to be supported by the Île-de-France region, and to be developing a promising project that will help stimulate the local economic fabric.the company says.

Wauters is a member of "Powered By Paris Region", the network of strategic and innovative companies created by the Paris Region.

Superga Beauty continues its expansion and sets up in India

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The editorial staff
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Superga Beauty, a subsidiary of the Superga Invest Group serving leading luxury and beauty brands for over 20 years, announces the opening in March 2021 of an Indian subsidiary in New Delhi. 

This strategic move, aimed at a fast-changing market, will enable Superga Beauty to establish new business opportunities and extend its reach in terms of sourcing, one of the priorities of the Full Service and Promotion business.

Superga Beauty India is committed to a 100 % Fair Trade approach with its suppliers, who in turn respect the same fair trade commitments with their entire Supply Chain.

Fair trade principles enable manufacturers to make a commitment against poverty by guaranteeing minimum prices to producers and a decent standard of living for them and their families, without being governed by the laws of competition.

"India has become a choice alternative to China. The opening of Superga Beauty India marks a new stage in the group's international development".says Leslie Bréau Meniger, President of Superga Beauty. Based in New Delhi for the past two years, Nathalie Dickeli, Managing Director/CEO of Superga Beauty, heads up the Superga Beauty India subsidiary.

Firmenich uses the link between fragrance and context to deliver emotional benefits

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The editorial staff
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Firmenich's scientific research has established that taking into account the consumer's context is the key to providing more emotional benefits to fragrances. After years of peer-reviewed research and publications, Firmenich demonstrates that its verbalized emotion approach through a unique Firmenich scent-emotion scale and implicit testing results in unique, emotionally powerful fragrances for consumers.

"The same scent will not evoke the same emotion in all consumers. For example, the smell of durian is synonymous with energy and well-being in China, but it is not appreciated in the US, explains Ilaria Resta, President, Global Perfumery. Through our scientific research, we can help our clients enhance the emotional impact of their products, with solutions tailored to each country's cultural context as well as product category preferences."

"Seventy percent of consumers' daily decisions are based on their emotions(*)explains Dr Christelle Porcherot, Corporate R&D Principal Scientist. While smells trigger strong emotions, these emotions also depend on personal life experiences and the context in which the smells are smelled." 

Using neuroscience, Firmenich researchers are able to understand the transformation of molecular signals into smells and memories. The Firmenich ScentMove emotion assessment model highlights nine emotional dimensions that encompass 25 commonly used qualifiers, far beyond the simple feeling of "pleasant". The fMRI observation of brain responses of individuals subjected to different fragrances has validated specific brain patterns corresponding to distinct emotional profiles. However, to develop relevant solutions, Firmenich also takes into account learning and memory. Cultural background, life experiences and commonly encountered scents shape the emotions felt, as our brain adapts to environmental changes.

"Emotional response can partly be observed by physiological measurements and brain recordings such as fMRI. However, only the verbalization of the feelings experienced provides a good understanding of the quality of the emotions provided by a fragrance, says Dr Christian Margot, Distinguished Scientist and Director, Corporate Research & Development. This allows us to connect a felt emotion to its context."

Firmenich was founded 125 years ago by a brilliant entrepreneur and chemist, with scientific research at the heart of its business from the start. The company invests an average of 10 % of its annual turnover in R&D. Using a multi-disciplinary approach, chemists, biologists, physicists and researchers make groundbreaking discoveries that continue to shape the fragrance and flavor industry: from the development of complex olfactive ingredients inspired by nature, to innovative delivery systems and formulations driven by artificial intelligence. At Firmenich, data and consumer insights are at the heart of fragrance creation, design and innovation, resulting in more fragrance benefits for both its customers and consumers worldwide.

Learn more about the work of Firmenich scientists on the sense of smell: https://www.firmenich.com/company/research/understanding-taste-smell

(*) Gallup, June 2020

Tereos obtains the first certification in France for organic beet alcohol production

By
The editorial staff
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A forerunner in the production of French organic beet sugar, the Tereos cooperative group is extending its range with the production of organic beet alcohol, which has just been awarded Cosmos certification for the first time in France.

Produced in November 2020 at the Tereos sugar-distillery in Artenay (Loiret), this alcohol is derived from organic beet processed at the Attin sugar refinery (Pas-de-Calais). This first French production of organic alcohol opens up new development opportunities for Tereos customers in the perfume and cosmetics sectors.

This organic alcohol production is part of a more global strategy to develop organic activity within Tereos. After a successful first campaign in 2019, Tereos has increased the area sown with organic beet in 2020 from 200 to 500 hectares. The number of partner farmers has doubled, with over 60 committed growers.

Artenay, at the heart of Cosmetic Valley

The Artenay site is strategically located at the heart of the Centre Val-de-Loire region's "Cosmetic Valley", 1er global resource center for cosmetics and fragrances.

A flagship industrial activity, this regional sector boasts the world's leading players, representing over 150 establishments and 10,800 jobs, including nearly 80 % in Eure-et-Loir and Loiret.

The organic market: steady growth

In recent years, the organic sector has enjoyed steady, sustained growth. Consumption of organic non-food products is now a must for the vast majority of French people.

image004- Ingredients - Product info

In the organic non-food market, organic cosmetics and personal care products have seen the strongest sales growth, up 16 points in two years (Source: Agence Bio February 2020).

Photo: Tereos sugar-distillery in Artenay (Loiret) Michel Blossier for Tereos

Seqens Cosmetics launches a new range of ingredients

By
The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques Seqens Cosmetics launches a new range of cosmetic ingredients.

With over 50 years' experience, Seqens Cosmetics is a European reference for the development of tailor-made ingredients and solutions for the most demanding industries such as cosmetics and perfumery. 

"With our long-standing expertise in the manufacture of key, complex cosmetic ingredients and intermediates, we offer our customers a unique continuum of expertise, accompanying them from the earliest stages of research and development right through to the industrialization of their products".the company says.

Backed by solid organic chemistry skills and specific industrial equipment, Seqens Cosmetics has built up the AdvensCare range, made up of ingredients and intermediates carefully selected for their value in cosmetic formulations and fragrances.

With AdvensCare, Seqens strengthens its support for cosmetics companies in the development and formulation of functional ingredients, actives and fragrances. The AdvensCare range covers a wide range of applications, from preservatives, emollients and emulsifiers to active ingredients, and involves the use of perfectly mastered technologies such as acid chlorides, acids and esters.

All AdvensCare ingredients are manufactured in France at Ecovadis Gold-certified sites, and are available in high levels of purity.

The AdvensCare range is made up of four ingredients: 

  • AdvensCare BZC is a crystalline quaternary ammonium salt, available as a pure, odorless, white to whitish fine powder. Mainly used as a fast-acting preservative in personal care and hygiene products, it is highly effective at low concentrations against a wide variety of micro-organisms. The recommended use rate for AdvensCare BZC in skin care cosmetics is 0.1 % in rinse-off and leave-on products in Europe and China, 0.5 % in the USA, and 0.5 % in rinse-off and 0.2 % in leave-on products in Japan. Soluble in water, alcohols, ketones and glycols, AdvensCare BZC can be easily formulated in solid or liquid form (soaps, shampoos, skin care creams...).
  • AdvensCare UDC is a colorless liquid used as a key raw material for the synthesis of a wide variety of cosmetic ingredients, including anti-dandruffs, anti-statics, emulsifiers, actives; where it is found bound to hydrolyzed collagen, alginate, hydrolyzed corn, soy or wheat protein... Available at a minimum purity of 98 %, AdvensCare UDC is oil-soluble and can easily be used to functionalize water-soluble ingredients (such as amino acids, peptides and proteins) to improve their formulability, skin penetration and bioavailability. 
  • AdvensCare DEA is a colorless liquid used as a masking agent in skincare products and fragrances, reducing or inhibiting base odor, and as an ingredient with a fruity olfactory profile in perfumes. It is also used as an emollient in a variety of skin-conditioning products, acting as a lubricant on the skin's surface, giving the skin a soft, smooth appearance.
  • AdvensCare UDA, a white crystalline powder, is a versatile ingredient with multiple functions for skin care products as a cleansing agent, emulsifier and masking agent. Its fatty acid derivative, ethyl decanoate, obtained by esterification, is used in the flavor and fragrance industry to provide a creamy or coconut scent. 

"Our expertise in the manufacture of specialty ingredients for the cosmetics and perfumery industries extends beyond the AdvensCare range. The main organic synthesis reactions for the cosmetics industry such as esterification, hydrogenation, halogenation, polymerization and alkylation are routinely carried out in our plants and can be made available for the quality manufacture of your strategic ingredients."emphasizes Seqens.

Texen partners with pianist and composer Laurent Assoulen's first perfume brand

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetiques A perfume bottle with a black box next to it, in partnership with Laurent Assoulen's first perfume brand.

Laurent Assoulen has been working on this project for two years. A jazz pianist and perfume expert, he studied the links between musical and perfume composition, creating the perfume concert a few years ago. He then turned his attention to the links between perfume and philosophy, an olfactory expression of our relationship with ourselves and our existence. He created the "Parfums de Nietzsche" house, whose first opus is "Surhomme". These two mixed fragrances, in two separate bottles supported by a steel "N", can be used as you wish, together or separately, horizontally or vertically. The result of a collaborative project is this collector's item.

A "N"stainless steel as centerpiece 

Texen Beauty Partners acted as a sponsor of this project, collaborating with peers such as Aptar, Heinz Glass and Wauters. Texen Beauty Partners managed the development of the "N"-shaped metal part that supports the two 25-ml bottles: design, technical study, mock-ups, right through to manufacturing in Asia.

The Nietzsche "N" is made of Stainless Steel, bent and polished by hand. It is laser-engraved with the "Parfums de Nietzsche Paris".

Demonstrating its expertise in metal, Texen Beauty Partners is making its mark in the niche fragrance market. It affirms its desire to contribute to the promotion of exciting and committed initiatives, such as that of Laurent Assoulen.

Quadpack covets the Chinese market with Yuga

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetiques Two men standing next to each other at Quadpack's event targeting the Chinese market with Yuga.

The growth of the Chinese cosmetics industry has prompted Quadpack, an international manufacturer and supplier of packaging for beauty products, to begin its commercial entry into the national market. An agreement with Yuga, a long-term partner based near Shanghai, will enable Quadpack to offer its QLine range to brands seeking the quality, performance and distinction of "Made in Europe" products. 

The move into China is part of Quadpack's 2020-2025 business strategy, which includes growth plans in each of its key territories in EMEA, the Americas and Asia Pacific. It follows last year's opening of a sales office in Japan and the appointment of Raj Savji as Managing Director - Asia Pacific to develop Quadpack's presence in the region.

"The Chinese beauty products market is worth 52.5 billion euros and growing fast. What's more, it has proved incredibly resilient. Since the COVID-19 epidemic and the resulting economic crisis, China is the first country to show a recovery. The market is ripe and our products are perfectly suited to it. We are fortunate to have been able to establish a partnership with Yuga - a relationship based on high levels of trust, shared values and proven results - to accelerate our market entry," explains Savji.

Beauty packaging manufacturer Yuga has been a Quadpack supply partner since 2010, producing a number of QLine references, as well as specific projects. Today, Yuga's sales team sells products from the QLine portfolio in its local market, starting with skincare and make-up ranges, and solutions in wood and Sulapac, an environmentally-friendly organic composite material. 

The QLine range offers intelligent, modular packaging solutions from the Quadpack portfolio, and is created, designed and developed in Europe. Products are manufactured at the Louvrette plant in Germany and Quadpack Wood in Spain, as well as at the sites of selected regional partners such as Yuga. Yuga's industrial capacity will enable components to be stored, assembled and finished locally. The resulting manufacturing and supply flexibility enables Quadpack to remain agile and provide solutions in and for the region.                            

According to Victor Wu, Yuga's Managing Director: "This is a case of one plus one being much more than two. Just as Quadpack has extended our reach internationally, our factories can support Quadpack's growth. We have 20 years' experience and a strong network in China, and are keen to introduce the QLine portfolio to local brands. Leading brands are looking internationally for top-quality packaging solutions, particularly in the skincare segment. Products from Europe are in high demand. 

Yuga has begun promoting the QLine range for make-up products, and will expand to include skincare products in April.

SantEnergy: boosting hair follicles

By
The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A close-up of a white flower.
Yerba santa (Eriodictyon californicum) in bloom, Stebbins Cold Canyon, Napa Valley, California

Mibelle Biochemistry communicates on a new launch. SantEnergy is a polyphenol-rich extract derived from the aerial parts of the Yerba Santa plant and harvested in a sustainable manner. Known as "mountain balm" and "sacred herb", Yerba Santa (Eriodictyon californicum) belongs to the Borage family (Boraginaceae) and is native to the Pacific coast of North America, specifically California. 

"SantEnergy protects the hair from internal and external aggressions, delays the aging of the hair follicle and increases hair growth and density. The hair is fuller and stronger.says Mibelle Biochemistry.

According to Mibelle Biochemistry, the benefits of SantEnergy are: 

- Energizes hair follicles with a "caffeine-like" effect,
- Protects hair follicles against oxidative stress,
- Delays the aging of hair follicles,
- Increases hair growth and density.

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