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The use of aluminum salts in antiperspirants is safe for health according to the Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety

Skin - Deodorant

The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), an independent expert committee of the European Commission, has just issued its final opinion on the use of aluminum in cosmetic products: it considers the use of aluminum in antiperspirants, toothpastes and lipsticks, in the usual concentrations of marketed formulas, as safe.

Taking into account all routes of exposure (oral, dermal, respiratory) for these three types of combined products, the calculated margin of safety is always greater than 2,000. This means that the amount of aluminum to which the consumer is exposed is at least 2,000 times lower than the dose identified as causing no toxicological effects.

The SCCS considers that exposure to aluminum through the daily application of cosmetic products does not significantly increase the daily intake of aluminum.

This advisory complements and updates the previous 2014 advisory. It analyzes the latest scientific data including those obtained from three studies, two of which date back to 2020. These latest results show, among other things, that the aluminum contained in antiperspirant products is neither absorbed nor stored by the skin. In addition, all the latest evaluations and bibliographies carried out until 2017 by other scientific committees were reviewed and confirm that aluminum in cosmetic products does not play a role in breast cancer.

The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety is an independent committee of the European Commission, composed of seventeen members who are experts in chemistry and toxicology and known for the rigor of their scientific analyses. 

For Anne Dux, Director of Scientific and Regulatory Affairs at FEBEA This study brings to an end more than ten years of anxiety-provoking controversies for consumers who use antiperspirants. The European opinion, which has just been issued after an extremely rigorous procedure, can completely reassure users of these products that are both safe and effective."

Symrise Fine Fragrance appoints Yvan Bagnis as Vice President Global Account & New Business Development

New Business Development - Vice President

As of April 14, 2020, Yvan Bagnis will join Symrise's Fine Fragrance Division in Paris as Vice President Global Account and New Business Development.

He will be primarily responsible for the global strategy of the PUIG account, as well as for developing new opportunities for Symrise thanks to his recognized experience in Europe. Based in Paris, he joins the team of Michael Betito, Vice President Sales Fine Fragrance Europe, with whom he had previously worked at Firmenich.

"Having Yvan Bagnis join our project is an extraordinary opportunity for the team as he is so well known in the industry. His experience, which makes him one of the greatest professionals in our industry, will be a definite asset to continue our positive spiral for three years now", explains Michael Betito.

With a literary background and a passion for antiques, Yvan Bagnis also developed a passion for the world of perfume and its industry very early on. He has held several key positions in fine fragrance as General Manager Fine Fragrance Europe at Firmenich for twelve years, before joining Drom in 2017 as General Manager Fine Fragrance Europe, and today Symrise.

"I would like to thank Michael Betito and Ricardo Omori, Senior Vice President Global Fine Fragrance, for their confidence. Symrise has demonstrated a strong and assertive strategy over the past few years, thanks to its talented, dedicated and generous teams. Joining their project is a real opportunity to continue to defend the creation and expertise so particular to our beautiful profession," says Yvan Bagnis.

Roctool measures the benefits of its technology on new plastics

Packaging and labeling - Cosmetic industry

Over the last six months, Roctool has built up partnerships with brands and manufacturers alike, focusing on priority areas for optimization such as design and aesthetics (reduction of secondary operations, appearance defects, etc.). The elimination of paint adds an economic as well as an environmental argument, as does the use of recycled, bio-sourced and biodegradable resins. However, for Roctool, each of these justifies in-depth upstream tests, then specific tests for each development.

Successful tests on recycled PET and PP, but not the only ones.

To satisfy the dual priorities of brands, both aesthetic and environmental, Roctool concentrates its efforts on material testing and injection behavior.
Recent studies have focused on PCR PP, PCR ABS and PCR PET. These tests compare parts injected using traditional molding with Roctool technology. For example, PCR PET from bottle recycling lends itself to qualitative injection molding. With Roctool technology, the part has a surface appearance free of defects and weld lines. Its matte or satin finish enables optimum replication of the mold, and directly challenges equivalent finishes obtained by painting.

Roctool is also advancing in the evaluation of advantages for the production of thin-walled parts or for reducing molding pressures. For example, for certain PCR materials, injection with Roctool technology enables the part to be filled to 100 % at a temperature of 110°, compared with 30° with conventional technology and a filling of 70 %. To reach 100 %, conventional technology would require such high pressures as to make the manufacturing process difficult.
The bio-degradable and bio-sourced resins currently under study promise convincing results in terms of both surface quality and stability.

As each material has different characteristics, Roctool intends to continue its in-depth work to quantify the maximum number of eco-responsible materials available on the market, and to put its know-how at the service of major brands and their suppliers.

Industry: a perfumer makes production and cleaning of its facilities more reliable with a new hose

Pipe - Industry

Aflex Hose's Bioflex Ultra PTFE hose technology selected in a luxury perfumer's production workshop

Aflex Hose, the world's leading manufacturer of coated PTFE flexible tubing, equips a fluid transfer line at one of the world's leading manufacturers of coated PTFE tubing. perfumer in France. Aflex's technology was chosen because it was the only one that fully met the needs of the application.

The production site, which has been using Aflex Bioflex Ultra since 2018, has specialized since 2004 in the manufacture and packaging of fragrances with or without alcohol, but also cosmetics such as milks for the body lotions or make-up remover. The plant does not use CIP cleaning, so the fluid transfer hoses had to withstand passages of 95° alcohol and steam. The working pressure is 7 bar. The existing silicone hoses, from a competitor's manufacturer, posed resistance problems: they oozed, leaked and the internal parts degraded due to the sterilization cleaning process (SIP). This is why the perfumer wanted to change supplier. ATEX and FDA certifications were required.
Aflex Hose, from Watson Marlow Fluid Technology Group, has proposed the Bioflex Ultra PTFE hose for biotech and pharmaceutical fluid transfer applications. Featuring a smooth PTFE inner body for resistance-free flow and easy cleaning, Bioflex Ultra was chosen for its excellent resistance to chemicals over a wide range of operating temperatures, and for its great flexibility in achieving minimal bending radii. Equipped with PTFE-coated Tri-Clamp sanitary fittings, Bioflex Ultra is ATEX and FDA certified, which was not the case for the competing products on the market. The perfumer was already familiar with the quality of Watson Marlow Fluid Technology Group's equipment, since the site was already using CERTA 250 and 701 pumps with BioPure Q-clamp fittings for other applications.

A conclusive one-month trial was carried out with mascaraincluding daily cleaning. The chosen solution proved to be effective and fully in line with the application's requirements.

Patented PTFE design

Aflex Hose's PTFE hoses are the result of a combination of expert engineering and materials knowledge, and the manufacturer is recognized as a pioneer in this field. Thanks to its patented PTFE inner body, Bioflex Ultra boasts excellent chemical and steam resistance, thus eliminating the resistance problems posed by competing hoses. Studies have shown that PTFE outperforms rubber, silicone and PVC in similar applications.
In the model chosen by the perfumer, the Bioflex Ultra is configured GP AS SS RC with PTFE-lined Tri-Clamp fittings, the PTFE inner lining is enriched with 2.5 % carbon, providing antistatic properties. Watson Marlow had pointed out that some of the products used (e.g. cream for the face) and their cleaning process exposed them to the risk of static discharge and hose failure.

Bioflex Ultra's patented PTFE inner-body design allows it to expand on the outside and compress on the inside of an elbow. This maintains a smooth, circular internal geometry throughout the pipe, without deformation. Its PTFE-lined sanitary Tri-Clamp fitting is a unique design that behaves like a seal, with no flow restrictions or retention zones, eliminating the risk of contamination since only PTFE comes into contact with process fluids.
The structure features a smooth inner lining to ensure cleanliness, performance and resistance to high pressures and temperatures from -73°C to 260°C. Cleaning capacity and steam resistance guarantee compliance with the most stringent hygiene standards.
The PTFE inner lining is reinforced with a helical coil and a braid, both in 316 stainless steel, followed by a blue EPDM outer lining, marked to EN16643 and benefiting from several approvals. The hoses are manufactured without the use of adhesives between the various layers, eliminating any possibility of contamination. This structure gives the hose a high degree of flexibility and resistance to torsion, reducing bending and eliminating cracks.
The hoses supplied are 10 m long, with a nominal inside diameter of 19 mm, and a test resistance of 16 bar (tested at 32 bar). The perfumer selected Aflex's Bioflex Ultra technology for its unique advantages, certifications, reduced bending radius and 2-year warranty.

www.watson-marlow.com

SERAM adorns the collar of Mon Paris inténsément, by Yves Saint Laurent

Perfume - Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris Intensement Eau De Parfum

SERAM adorns the neck of the bottle with a bi-material satin and organza lavaliere. Mounted on an elastic satin ring, its intense color contrasts with the gold plate engraved with the YSL logo, joining 2 PU panels to form a refined whole. A marriage of colors and materials so dear to the couture of Yves Saint Laurent, retranscribed for an iconic fragrance.

[podcast] New show: Corpo35 Perfume Awards

Vector graphics - Illustration

Industries Cosmétiques continues its editorial initiatives and launches a new show in the form of a podcast (we were the first to offer this media in the field :-)). We dedicate several episodes to the adventure of the Corpo35 Perfume Awards.

Immerse yourself in the first episode and discover the genesis of the contest with the interview of Cécile Vialla and Charles Berry, founders of this beautiful initiative to promote the culture of perfume and independent perfumery in France.

The first episode is available on our website: by following this link. 

But also in direct listening on the main download platforms, including Apple Podcasts and Spotify

 

Coverpla and Galimard sign a remarkable bottle

Perfume - perfume

How to turn a standard offer into a purely identity object capable of sublimating a brand's codes? Coverpla's answer is to offer customization. Galimard entrusted Coverpla with the development of a value-bearing bottle.
Created in 1747, the Galimard perfume house is an iconic institution in the Grasse region. The company entrusted Coverpla with the custom design and development of a generic bottle for all of its men's and women's fragrances. The challenge was to design a product that was both unique and durable, dynamic and visible. The two teams thus embarked on the customization exercise, using Coverpla's global offer.

Pure elegance

For this project, Galimard chose the Soni by Coverpla model in 100 ml, for its sober and tapered silhouette and the premium look of its thick base. The choice of caps then allowed for the differentiation of the fragrances; Eaux de parfum and Perfumes for men and women. The brand chose two cap models: a standard one in zamac decorated with gold or silver and engraved with the coat of arms in the mold, the second one injected in crystal surlyn in the Coverpla workshops.

 Dare the engraved bottle

Determined to push the concept of personalization further, Galimard chose to distinguish its bottle by an engraving positioned on its side. This Coverpla-controlled operation is performed by the glassmaker at the finishing mold stage.

Publication of our international special issue 2020-2021

Beauty - face make-up

That's it! Our special 2020-2021 issue is out. Our subscribers will soon be receiving it in their mailboxes (even if postal delays are long at the moment...).

The contents of this international English-language issue include innovation on every page, expert opinions and, above all, a major feature on "Cosmetics made in Finland".

This exceptional 2020-2021 issue is available online at : this link.

Happy reading!

Groupe GM launches new Damana Terre & Soleil solid range

Shower gel - Lotion

As part of its "Care About Earth" program, Groupe GM, a leading operator in the international hotel hospitality sector, is launching the first line of solid hospitality products under the Damana Terre et Soleil brand. It is a celebration of Mediterranean nature. This solid range is enriched with aromatic plant extracts.

Damana is a Groupe GM brand whose watchwords are simplicity and happiness. Driven by these values, Groupe GM has created lines of home products that combine the richness and authenticity of natural, artisanal-inspired products with today's expectations in terms of well-being, efficiency and ecology.

With this new line of solid products, GM Group reaffirms its commitment to sustainable development and strictly complies with the requirements of its "Care About Earth" program, which aims to reduce the impact of products on the environment.

Inspired by the traditional trade of the apothecary, this solid Damana range evokes the craftsmanship of herbalists. It is a line ofamenities formulated with ingredients of natural origin. Thanks to their solid constitution, water consumption is considerably reduced: the quantity of water used is nine times less than that used with conventional formulas.

These dermatological lotions are truly "soap-free", making them ideal for sensitive and atopic skin. They are composed of a blend of gentle surfactants, such as Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate derived from coconut oil, emulsifiers and emollients. They contain neither sodium bicarbonate nor Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and are therefore suitable for sensitive skin, as their pH is naturally close to that of water.

The packaging for these solid home products is made from FSC-certified cardboard, coated with a water-resistant varnish, and contains no plastic. The range includes three 20 g solid breads: a citrus shower gel, a juniper shampoo and a white nettle conditioner, all of which have been dermatologically tested. With top notes of bergamot and aniseed lemon, and middle notes of cyclamen and lily of the valley, this range of scented home products puts the emphasis on pleasure.

Laurent Marchand, President of GM Group, recently said of the new range: " We have always been committed to creating top-quality hotel hospitality products for our customers and partners around the world. We are aware of the growing demand for eco-friendly products and packaging. The new solid Damana range is testimony to GM Group's commitment to excellence and the well-being of its customers, and we will continue our efforts to contribute to a cleaner environment. "

More info : www.groupegm.com

Industries Cosmétiques launches a campaign to support caregivers and research

Graphic design - Poster

dessin raphael def tiny- Management - Market infoDuring this period of confinement, Industries Cosmétiques decided to have the children draw in support of the nursing staff, firefighters, police officers... and research, with a donation of one euro to the Institut Pasteur for each drawing received.

The magazine invites its readers' children to create their most beautiful work on any subject. We'll be publishing the entries on a regular basis, and web users will be invited to vote for the best ones. The winner's drawing will be published in the June issue of our magazine.

To your pencils and brushes!

To participate, simply go to this page: I participate

Explained in 90 seconds by Céline Dewaele

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