The need for comfort is as much a key factor in the selection of cosmetic care products as the ingredients that go into them. With this in mind, Strand Cosmetics Europe's Revival collection combines the simplicity of short formulas with fruit and flower extracts, and creamy textures.
The desired effects are hydration, softness, freshness and radiance. The silky, concentrated serum is applied in the morning before the velvety, matte day cream, and in the evening before the rich, shiny night cream. Leave the mask on for 15-20 minutes. The 4 formulas contain respectively over 80%, 95%, 93% and 89% of ingredients of natural origin.
- Pomegranate extract : boosts aquaporin expression (hydration) and improves skin tone
- Magnolia bark extract : improves skin hydration and firmness
- Blackcurrant extract : boosts ATP production and cellular oxygenation: skin is energized
- Peach flower extract :helps reduce cellular waste for more radiant skin
Revival, 4 facial treatments with fruit and flower extracts
Global Bioenergies successfully scales up C3 process
Global Bioenergies announces a new milestone in the scale-up of its process for converting renewable resources into isopropanol and acetone. These two bio-sourced compounds target major markets in cosmetics and solvents. They can also be converted into polypropylene, a key component in the $70 billion plastics industry. An initial pilot test was successfully completed in December 2017. A demonstrator test corresponding to a new scale-up by a factor of 20 has now been successfully completed, paving the way for a first commercial plant.
The C3 process, which enables the production of renewable isopropanol and acetone, is the second process in the Global Bioenergies portfolio to reach industrial demonstrator scale. This process is based on a breakthrough innovation: bacteria with a metabolism redesigned to maximize the use of sugars, and thus reduce the production costs of bio-sourced compounds.
Isopropanol and acetone are two compounds used by numerous industries (solvents, materials, cosmetics), and can be converted into propylene, then polypropylene, one of the main compounds in the plastics industry, with a market worth over 70 billion dollars.
The market demand for bio-sourced products, including green polypropylene, stems from the environmental commitments made by major manufacturers in fields such as food, cosmetics, toys and furniture.
ARD, which already operates Global Bioenergies' industrial pilot for the Isobutene process, had conducted the first scale-up stage of this isopropanol and acetone production process at the end of 2017.
The next phase, corresponding to the demonstration scale, was subcontracted to Bioprocess Pilot Facility (BPF), based in Delft, the Netherlands. ARD and BPF are both members of the Smartpilots consortium, which brings together the main European institutions focused on scaling up innovative processes.
An initial test was successfully carried out: the results obtained in the laboratory and pilot were reproduced in a 4 m3 fermenter.
Frédéric Pâques, Chief Operating Officer of Global Bioenergies, comments: "The close collaboration between the Global Bioenergies and BPF teams has been one of the keys to our success. We are very satisfied with BPF's responsiveness and industrial experience. The results not only validated this scale-up stage of our process, but also demonstrated its robustness. ".
Marc Delcourt, CEO of Global Bioenergies, adds: "This fermentation scale is the last before commercial-scale operation. We still have a number of validations to do, and engineering work has only recently begun, but we are already in discussions with major international manufacturers about the commercial deployment of this process. The C3 process is now Global Bioenergies' second pillar of value creation, after the Isobutene process. "
SFly revolutionizes the production of chitin and chitosan to provide a controlled and traceable manufacturing in Europe
The Isère-based start-up has developed an original process using the Hermetia Illucens (Black Soldier Fly) to mass-produce chitosan, a high value-added product used in the medical, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, environmental and industrial sectors.
SFly, a start-up that has developed an innovative insect-chitin bioconversion model, has just successfully validated its integrated process for extracting the chitin making up the exoskeleton of the fly Hermetia Illucens, in an optimal way (environmental and financial footprint), and manufacturing a certified-quality chitosan.
Already used in numerous products (suture thread, artificial skin, anti-ageing cream, non-allergenic and anti-bacterial textile fiber, fungicide, fertilizer...), chitosan is a key resource with highly promising applications.
This first major step in the start-up's development has enabled it to complete the financing of the second phase of its strategic plan: setting up its pilot production unit on the Inspira platform at Salaise-sur-Sanne in Isère.
A stable, controlled process
SFly has developed a controlled process, ensuring traceability, repeatability and quality control throughout the manufacturing process. The project is the result of more than four years of proprietary research, and has benefited from private funding of 400 k€ and 200 k€ from the Bpifrance innovation fund. The aim is to develop a new French industrial production chain for insects, using high-performance chemical processes to manufacture medical- and cosmetology-grade chitin and chitosan.
Bio-resources for the future
These strategic products, for which global production is currently insufficient to meet industrial needs (known demand for chitin in 2017 was over 75,000 tonnes for 40,000 tonnes produced), are currently extracted from shrimp shells, mainly by Asian companies. Global demand for chitosan is growing fast (16% per year) due to its many applications, such as in water treatment, food and beverages, cosmetics, industry, biomedicine and pharmaceuticals, and agrochemicals. The global market for chitin derivatives is expected to reach $63 billion by 2021, according to a report by Global Industry Analysts Inc. (chitin and chitosan derivatives market report - 2015).
"The validation of our process represents a major milestone in our development, as well as being a source of great satisfaction. Every stage has been meticulously dissected and optimized: large-scale rearing of Hermetia Illucens larvae, control of larval feeding, fly reproduction, chemical chitin extraction process, chitosan production and waste recycling. Ensuring traceability and repeatability throughout the entire process, from input to finished product, is a first that sets us apart from current chitin/chitosan producers. We can now offer molecules that were previously inaccessible. Another advantage of our chitosan is its purity, which will enable us to produce 100 % of our production in pharmaceutical grade. The next steps will be our financing round and the construction of our pilot production unit," explains Philippe Crochard, co-founder of SFly.
Mercedes Osti takes over the commercial management of the Texen Group
Mercedes Osti has a long career in industry and a thorough knowledge of the packaging sector, and is now in charge of Texen's worldwide sales division. Her mission is to promote the synergy of Texen Industries, Texen Beauty Partners and Texen Innovation with customers.
After 12 years with Arjowiggins, world leader in technical paper, where she contributed to the development of luxury packaging, Mercedes Osti joined the French management of Gruppo Cordenons, specialist in premium paper. In 2011, she continued her B-to-B career at Rexam, where she joined the European sales management team for plastic injection molding. Under the name of Albéa, Rexam's purchaser at the time, she developed the portfolios of major brands such as Clarins and Shiseido.
Texen, B to B to C
On June 11, Mercedes Osti took over the reins of Texen's worldwide sales team, a resource she intends to restructure and energize through the development of high-performance services and tools for the benefit of players in the beauty industry. In this context, Mercedes is preparing, in coordination with Texen Beauty Partners' sales management, to support the new dynamic being established between the group's divisions.
Diam and Lancôme receive the Popaï de la création award
At the official Popaï Awards evening on June 14, the DIAM group received five awards, including the coveted first prize for creation, for the latest bar Fragrance Maison Lancôme. An honor for the two teams from L'Oréal and Diam.
Perceived by the industry as a veritable "Palme d'Or", the design prize was awarded by a jury made up of brands (Maisons) and distributors from the marketing, merchandising and communications sectors. The DIAM Group was awarded the Grand Prix de la Création for its bar dedicated to Lancôme's Grands Crus fragrance collection.
Winning approach
In its request, the Lancôme brand wanted to overhaul its merchandising offer dedicated to its fragrance collection, to standardize it from one country to another (guaranteeing "Brand Equity") and make it more flexible, with the aim of shortening lead times and cutting costs.
Based on a design by the Lancôme studio (L'Oréal teams), Diam took charge of the overall project, from technical design to delivery. With a highly innovative approach to modularity, Diam met the brand's imperatives and enabled countries to reduce their Time to Market. With this in mind, Diam completes its offer with installation and recycling services.
Gone are the long lead times and cumbersome adjustments required for this new-generation perfume bar, which now comes in two major modular, interchangeable versions. Made of multi-materials (glass, metal, plastic, resin, etc.) and 100 eco-designed %, it now combines aesthetic and functional advantages in the shortest possible time.
Premium attitude
Elegant and totally in tune with the spirit of the times, this new project adopts the identifying codes of luxury: black and gold contrasts, graphic play, black and white portraits, muted lighting... This staging offers a beautiful way of showcasing products. It can be customized in any way and anticipates retailers' every need (tests, products, stock management, etc.). This is a feat on the part of Lancôme, and a fine collaborative approach between Diam's teams in France and China, and those of L'Oréal (design, marketing and purchasing departments).
The brand's objective is thus attained: to gain on investments and time to market without compromising its image.
Novacap strengthens its US pharmaceutical offering with the acquisition of PCI Synthesis
Novacap, a global player in pharmaceutical synthesis and specialty products, announces the signature of an agreement to acquire PCI Synthesis, a US company specializing in the development and contract manufacturing of pharmaceutical ingredients (CDMO ).
Located in the heart of the Boston area's pharmaceutical and biotechnology hub, PCI Synthesis offers its customers a wide range of services including research and process development, clinical development and commercial production of active pharmaceutical ingredients and other specialty intermediates.
The company operates an R&D center in Devens (Massachusetts) and a manufacturing site in Newburyport (Massachusetts), and generates sales of $32 million. PCI has grown significantly in recent years, positioning itself as a strategic partner to the U.S. pharmaceutical and biotech industries, thanks to a wide range of services and technologies, strong responsiveness and recognized project management skills.
The combination of the two companies will give PCI Synthesis the resources it needs to pursue its development, and will strengthen Novacap's pharmaceutical synthesis capabilities, which now include 12 cGMP sites, 2 main R&D centers and a comprehensive range of services and technologies to support customers throughout the clinical and commercial phases.
"The acquisition of PCI Synthesis is perfectly in line with the Group's strategy of strengthening our offering to the pharmaceutical industry and accelerating our development in the United States. We have been impressed by PCI's success, its pipeline of projects and its growth prospects. Our two companies have complementary CDMO activities and share common values such as entrepreneurship, operational excellence and customer focus. We look forward to working with the PCI teams", said Pierre Luzeau, CEO of PCI. said Pierre Luzeau, President of Novacap Group.
Completion of this acquisition remains subject to approval by the competition authorities.
g.pivaudran's new production site up and running
g.pivaudran, market leader in aluminium components for perfumery and cosmetics, celebrates its 70th anniversary this year.ème anniversary.
Building on its know-how and technological expertise, the company, now headed by Marc Pivaudran, continues to expand in the luxury packaging market. With the recent extension of its production unit, the company has reached a new milestone. This investment should enable the company to double its production capacity in the coming years.
The company has just completed extension work on its new industrial building.
" Initially, this new building of around 3,000m2 will enable us to increase our capacity for new projects entrusted to us by our customers, and to install assembly machines. ", explains Marc Pivaudran, its Chairman. " In a second phase, we will be installing a new automatic anodizing line (late 2019), enabling us to double our surface treatment capacity. As part of the company's development in Souillac, we are planning to recruit technicians and qualified operators, and we are continuing to roll out our policy of training in new technologies. ".
These extension and refurbishment works represented an investment of around 2.7 M€ on the real estate side and 1.8 M€ on the machinery side.
The company now has 160 employees and recorded sales of €18.5m in 2017.
Cosmetic Valley to boost Made in France innovation in make-up
150 specialists and professionals took part on Tuesday June 12, 2018, in the 9th edition of Connexions R&D, high-level meetings between research and the cosmetics industry, organized in Orléans by Cosmetic Valley with the support of the Centre - Val de Loire Region, its historic partner. A world leader and champion of the French economy, the cosmetics industry examines and tests its ideas, projects and discoveries every year, through an unquestionable international scientific filter.
Half the cosmetics products that will be sold in the next 5 years are not yet known. Every twelve months, several hundred new products are presented to European consumers! In a highly competitive market where, alongside established rivals such as the United States, Japan and Italy, new players such as Taiwan and Korea are appearing, the industry needs to structure and strengthen its innovation dynamic if it is to maintain its positions.
Of course, it does so with the sector's major groups and their laboratories. But we also work with and for SMEs, with public laboratories and universities. These direct exchanges are the originality of our technological partnerships. This unique diversity of players is our comparative advantage in global competition, a scientific and intellectual added value that other players don't have.
For the Pôle de Compétitivité, these meetings also serve to highlight a triple reality. Firstly, they bear witness to the cluster's change of scale, since the French government entrusted it with the task of organizing the industry on a national scale, rather than simply structuring it locally. Secondly, they remind us that the industry's strength lies in its capacity to innovate, a pillar of Made in France in its markets, alongside product authenticity, consumer safety and environmental protection. Finally, they demonstrate that the Group is now taking an interest in all segments of its ecosystem, whether they be functional, as with the Cosvapex project, evaluated less than a week ago in Rouen, which offers unprecedented solutions for international transport, customs clearance or the fight against counterfeiting, they are thematic: Cosmetic Valley is expanding its competencies to include fragrances, skincare and make-up, which alone represent a fast-growing market of 66 billion USD, coveted by the world's leading companies.
In order to respond to this specific challenge, Cosmetic Valley has been leading a working group for the past year, bringing together major brands, façonniers, raw material and packaging suppliers, which launched a call for Make-up projects at the beginning of 2018. It was the success of this initiative - 37 projects received to date - that prompted Cosmetic Valley to dedicate the 2018 edition of Connexions R&D to it, giving innovative project leaders the opportunity to find partners to develop concepts and products. From then on, the communications and conferences that formed the backbone of these meetings, preceding the pitches of 20 project developers and a flock of BtoB meetings, saw the participation of companies particularly involved in this field: Japanese company Daito Kasei will be talking about pigments, Chanel and Clarins colors, an SME "Orléans Cosmetics" associated with Grenn ultrafine particles, Albéa Group packaging and the start-up Bouche Rouge which, hosted by Dior Recherches in Saint-Jean-de-Braye, has just launched a revolutionary lipstick concept.
Marc - Antoine Jamet, President of the competitiveness cluster, commented: "Innovation is the Holy Grail of our cluster, its growth driver and its life insurance policy. I'm delighted to see the creativity of French players in the make-up sector, driven by young people, social networks and the need for made-to-measure products. The prospects of this market, which is developing in Asia, offer new outlets, particularly for our SMEs and start-ups. Cosmetic Valley must continue to ramp up its Make-up program, with the first objective of creating a FabLab for the make-up of tomorrow. It's not a question of imitating what is already being done very well in France or Italy, or of compensating or catching up, but of identifying today the trends, components and products of the future.
Carestia Arcade Beauty invents perfumed emulsion
Perfume discovery specialist Carestia Arcade Beauty launches a brand new perfuming technique called "emulsion parfumée". A creative, economical and sustainable solution.
Perfume samples, scent buds, scented objects... Carestia is multiplying its research into cutting-edge discovery products, capable of supporting brands in their marketing approach. The Grasse-based company uses olfactory chemistry to create products with advanced aesthetics.
New: scented emulsion
This new method differs from the traditional impregnation process. Held between two perfume cards, the scented formula faithfully releases its olfactory notes over time (several months) without losing its potency.
In addition, this process reduces the amount of perfume used by the traditional impregnation technique by around 20 %. Finally, the absence of alcohol facilitates administrative and customs constraints, and avoids the evaporation of top notes, which remain on the paper.
Infinite scenery
This technique allows even greater creativity in decoration and finishing: various printing modes, glitter varnish, gilding, embossing, die-cutting, ejection...
"This invention, the result of several months' research, enables us to position ourselves in fast-growing markets such as high-end home fragrances," adds Marie-Hélène Marcelli, Managing Director of Carestia.
Strand Cosmetics Europe takes care of the skin's microbiota
Scientific research has shown that a healthy skin microbiota* plays a key role in preventing excessive colonization of the skin by pathogens, which can cause damage such as redness, accelerated aging, dehydration and more.
The skin has natural defenses to ensure the balance of its microbiota, but these are overstretched in response to environmental and climatic aggressions: pollution, cold, heat, dryness, humidity, etc. These discoveries have opened up new perspectives in the development of cosmetic formulas, to help the skin maintain good health. These discoveries have opened up new perspectives in the development of cosmetic formulas, to help the skin maintain good health.
Strand Cosmetics Europe's skincare research laboratory has developed the Skin Beauty Balance collection from a complex of active ingredients comprising cotton extract, with its soothing and anti-free radical properties, medium-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, D-Panthenol and high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid.
5 face and body treatments, 5 short sensorial formulas, make up this line designed for active, urban women in search of simplicity, softness and well-being.
- SKB2 Mild cleansing foam: half-liquid, half-foam facial cleanser for use with or without water.
SKB2 Moisturizing day cream: a delicate, airy, soft emulsion that penetrates quickly.
- SKB2 Relaxing night cream: rich, glossy emulsion that transforms into a protective film.
- SKB2 Anti-ageing emulsion: a supple, shiny, creamy emulsion. Fresh on application, it leaves a silky-smooth film.
- SKB2 Cocooning body cream: supple, creamy emulsion with a velvety effect.
*The microbiota is the collection of micro-organisms living in a specific environment called the microbiome.
