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Dior collaborates with Albéa for its new solid fragrances

Dior Mini miss - Albéa

Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet and Miss Dior Eau de Parfum have been redesigned as solid perfumes for the first time. 

The new Miss Dior Mini Miss solid fragrances feature an innovative alcohol-free formula in a vibrant translucent pink stick.

The melt-in-your-mouth, comfortable texture is contained in a seven-piece package, made from 100 % PP by Albéa's teams at Parigné L'Evêque, the Albéa group's center of excellence for the design and manufacture of perfume caps.

The body of the cap and the mechanism holder have been galvanically decorated. A recyclable sintered steel ballast adds weight to the case, giving it a more luxurious sensory appeal for the consumer. The case is hand-woven by Oriol & Fontanel, specialists in woven packaging and decorative accessories, in a houndstooth jacquard pattern in the Miss Dior colors.

The perfume stick can be applied directly to pulse points, alone or as a complement to the perfume spray.

Deagglomerate and calibrate powders taken from the mass in the form of compact pellets

Nibleur Gericke

As a specialist in solutions for discharge, dosing and mixing projects for the processing of bulk materials, Gericke offers nibblers designed to deagglomerate products or blocks of products that can be very dense.

GNB 530- Industrial processes - Product info

Gericke GNB 530 flickers are used in the chemical, food and mineral industries. They consist of a 3-blade rotor rotating at low speed, and a perforated grid with an opening resembling a cheese grater, between 2 and 25 mm depending on the results required.

They are used to restore the original particle size of powdered products that have set after storage or under the effect of humidity, and to reduce them to the required particle size without generating fines.

The GNB530 offers operators easy access to the internal parts of the equipment for inspection and cleaning. It features a front door for easy removal of the cradle-mounted screen. As an option, the rotor/geared motor assembly can be mounted on rails and extracted from the deagglomeration chamber for fast, thorough cleaning.

The GNB530 can also be fitted with a device that detects any metal-to-metal contact between the rotor and the grate, and stops the equipment instantly to avoid damaging it or contaminating the production line. It can be inserted into a production line or mounted on a mobile skid.

The nibleur is available in the most stringent Atex versions, zone 20 inside and zone 22 outside.

Debut biotech expands partnership with L'Oréal

Debut Biotech

San Diego, California-based biotech company Debut has announced that it has signed an agreement with L'Oréal to develop more than a dozen bio-identical ingredients to replace conventional ingredients currently used in the group's products.

As part of this agreement, Debut will create new biobased ingredients using proprietary advanced biomanufacturing processes that combine fermentation and cell-free technology to replace conventional methods.

The Californian biotech emphasizes that green sciences such as its biotechnological processes are paving the way for a new generation of bioactive cosmetic ingredients and products that combine the best of nature with supply chain transparency, safety, purity, consistency, quality and scientific data.

"Creating bio-identical ingredients on a large scale preserves global biodiversity and ensures responsible ingredient supply chains while continuing to prioritize product quality and performance.said the founder and CEO of the young American company. Debut is committed to creating bio-based formulations for all its beauty products and has unrivalled biotechnology, formulation and scale-up capabilities to catalyze this transformative change in beauty."

Debut's biotechnological processes pave the way for a new generation of bioactive cosmetic ingredients and products that combine the best of nature with supply chain transparency, safety, purity, consistency, quality and scientific data.

"Thanks to this exciting partnership and the adoption of groundbreaking technology, we are well placed to foster the creation of more sustainable and efficient products that meet the demands of our consumers and fulfill our duty to protect the planet.said Guive Balooch, Global Managing Director of Augmented Beauty and Open Innovation at L'Oréal Groupe. This long-term agreement with Debut is another example of our commitment to the Open Innovation ecosystem and to building the future of beauty by collaborating with the best partners."

Joshua Britton continues: "Our mission is to lead the way in biotechnology. We create value throughout the supply chain, ensuring that Debut's bio-identical and novel ingredients and products meet the huge global market demand for next-generation sustainable beauty. The beauty industry will be transformed, for the greater good of people and the planet."

Debut is a portfolio company of Bold, L'Oréal's venture capital fund.

Photo: Joshua Britton, founder and CEO of Debut, Ph.D.

Groupe Rocher enters into exclusive negotiations with Arcade Beauty for its Ploërmel plant

Groupe Rocher Ploermel

On September 25, the Rocher group - which employs over 15,000 people in France and abroad - announced plans to sell its perfume production site in Ploërmel.

Following discussions with a number of potential buyers, the group has decided to enter into exclusive negotiations with Arcade Beauty, an American specialist in sample manufacturing.

Groupe Rocher - which manages nine brands including Yves Rocher, Petit Bateau and Arbonne - states that the exchanges are motivated by a shared desire to guarantee production of the group's current volumes, the acquisition of all facilities at the Ploërmel site, and the recovery of jobs.

Negotiations are based on a five-year exclusive production agreement for the Group's existing volumes, thus ensuring the stability and continuity of business at Ploërmel. 

"The exclusive negotiations we are conducting with Arcade Beauty are a very promising first step towards the takeover of the Ploërmel site and all its jobs. I would like to thank our teams for their commitment, determination and confidence. We are working with the buyer, with whom we share a vision for the future of the site and common values, to create the conditions for a successful transition".says Vincent Taglioni, Group Operations Director.

"With its industrial capacity and know-how, the Ploërmel site is exactly what we were looking for to expand our product offering and pursue our commercial development. All our teams are mobilized to finalize negotiations with Groupe Rocher, with a view to preserving production and jobs at the site. I am convinced that Ploërmel will be one of our group's industrial flagships in the very near future.says Carl Allain, CEO and President of Arcade Beauty.

A global specialist in sampling solutions, Arcade Beauty also offers a full-service offering, and is a trusted partner for Groupe Rocher. Based in New York, it operates 11 production plants worldwide, including five in Europe.

A photo posted on Twitter that became X by the Rocher group in 2022.

SGS acquires cosmetics testing laboratory IEC

Facial care

Geneva-based SGS, a global specialist in testing, inspection and certification, has signed an agreement to acquire IEC (Institut d'Expertise Clinique).

A French family-owned group founded in 1990, IEC conducts clinical trials to assess safety and efficacy, as well as to test the effectiveness of its products. in vitrosensory analysis studies, as well as consumer tests. These tests are carried out for dermatological and ophthalmological products in the cosmetics, pharmaceutical and chemical sectors. The group - which employs over 150 people - is present in Europe, Asia and Africa, serving an international clientele of some of the world's most prestigious brands.

Completion of the acquisition remains subject to the usual conditions precedent, including employee consultation in France.

"Joining SGS, a leader in our sector, is a fantastic opportunity for IEC. It will help us to better serve our customers by leveraging the many synergies offered by such a global player, whether in terms of innovation, marketing, operational excellence or international expansion. We look forward to joining such a powerful network.said IEC Chairman Etienne Camel.

"We are delighted to welcome IEC and its talented teams to SGS. This acquisition is aligned with our strategic objectives and further strengthens our global leadership in cosmetics and hygiene testing. IEC brings SGS innovative capabilities and strong scientific expertise, as well as a complementary geographic footprint and service offering."said Géraldine Picaud, CEO of SGS.

SGS is a multi-sector group with almost 100,000 employees and a network of over 2,600 offices and laboratories worldwide.

Commusys, a new key ingredient in dermal-epidermal communication 

SILAB_COMMUSYS

Silab develops, manufactures and markets natural, patented active ingredients of proven efficacy and safety to leading names in the cosmetics and dermo-cosmetics industry. Interested in cross-compartmental communication between the dermis and epidermis during aging, an essential component in ensuring skin longevity, the company has set up a modelling study to study the role of the epidermis in the aging process. in vitro unpublished. 

First, the mediators involved in dermal-epidermal communication were mapped, highlighting the major role of the proteome, miRNA expression in extracellular vesicles (including exosomes), and the IGF-1/IGF-1R pathway. Silab then demonstrated that these mediators are deregulated during aging, leading to a communication defect that impairs the biological functions of the epidermis.

A natural anti-aging ingredient

With this in mind, Silab has developed Commusys, an active ingredient capable of regulating the molecular players involved in communication from the dermis to the epidermis, thereby reactivating epidermal functions.

According to Silab, the secretome of aged fibroblasts treated with Commusys at 0.4 % enhances keratinocyte processes such as cell proliferation and cohesion, keratinocyte differentiation, hydration and anchoring of keratinocytes at the dermal-epidermal junction.

These results are reflected in in vivo on a mature Caucasian panel by positive effects on epidermal renewal and thickness, assessed using optical biopsies. The skin of Caucasian and Asian volunteers was moisturized, smoothed and radiant after twice-daily use of Commusys at 1.7%. 

A wealth of biopeptides from Pichia stipitis 

Building on its expertise in natural peptide development, Silab has exploited yeast's natural richness in proteins. Pichia stipitis

Well-known for their anti-aging action, peptides act as cellular messengers capable of regulating the skin's biological functions. 

This collection of yeast is grown in Silab's biotechnology plant in France. It meets the company's raw materials traceability and sustainability requirements.

Obtained through a process combining enzymatic engineering and purification, Commusys is purified to over 90% biopeptides. 

Silab points out that Commusys is a patented active ingredient recommended in all skincare products dedicated to mature skin, at a dose of 0.4 to 1.7%. Available in aqueous solution, it is easy to formulate, according to the company. It complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 98.8 % (ISO 16128). It complies with international cosmetics regulations (Europe, USA, China, Japan, etc.).

Givaudan acquires Italian company b.kolormakeup & skincare (b.kolor)

cosmetics-1543276_1920 rc

Swiss group Givaudan, a global specialist in fragrances and beauty products, has announced that it has finalized the acquisition of b.kolormakeup & skincare (b.kolor), an Italian company specializing in the development and production of finished makeup and skincare products. This transaction follows the purchase of 25 % of the Italian company's capital by Givaudan in July 2021.

This acquisition enables Givaudan to offer innovative solutions for make-up formulas and to further expand its capabilities in skincare applications. 

Founded in 2000 and based near Milan, Italy, b.kolor employs over 300 people. The company is recognized as an expert in the design of creative formulas and the production of finished products for B2B customers, focusing on innovation and sensory benefits combined with cutting-edge technical performance. With two modern plants, it serves a broad customer base including independent brands, local and regional customers, as well as international companies. Some 90 % of its sales are generated outside Italy. 

"After three years of fruitful partnership with b.kolor, the completion of this acquisition is a major milestone in the company's development. is a great success for Givaudan and the promise of an exciting adventure. By sharing our creative and innovative capabilities, we will generate additional value for our respective customers by offering a complete package combining high-level scientific knowledge and design excellence".said Maurizio Volpi, President of Givaudan's Fragrance and Beauty Division.

"We are delighted to expand in the beauty sector by benefiting from b.kolor's expertise. This acquisition not only strengthens our capabilities in make-up and skincare, but also positions us as leaders in driving the market towards an even more solutions-driven future."added Markus Rassmann, Managing Director of Givaudan Active Beauty,

"Joining Givaudan, a market leader, is an excellent opportunity to propel our business to new heights. Givaudan's creative, ingredient and technological capabilities will greatly assist us in evolving our product offering, and we will also benefit from Givaudan's customer base and geographic presence as we expand into new territories. We are delighted to share our unique creative design and production know-how with Givaudan to bring tomorrow's products to life.said Maria-Teresa Sancini, President of b.kolor.

The terms of the agreement were not disclosed. 

Photo : Maria / Pixabay

Groupe Rocher, Laboratoires Expanscience and Naos join the Trasce consortium

cosmetic-2357981_1280

Albéa, Chanel, Clarins, Cosfibel powered by GPA Global, Dior, The Estée Lauder Companies, Groupe Pochet, L'Occitane en Provence, L'Oréal Groupe, Merck, Neyret, Nuxe, Sensient, Shiseido and Sisley have launched the Trasce consortium (for Traceability Alliance for Sustainable Cosmetic)a alliance to improve supply chain traceability. 

Faced with the multiplication of necessary but individual initiatives in this field, Trasce was born out of the need for a change of scale in the cosmetics industry's traceability procedures. 

Three new companies have joined the 15-year-old consortium: Groupe Rocher, Laboratoires Expanscience and Naos, reflecting Trasce's concrete and tangible commitment to deepening knowledge of the filières of the cosmetics sector. 

The long-term objective is to consolidate a collective approach to CSR risks and defin common progress plans to promote a more sustainable and resilient model.

Trasce aims to put the strength of the collective to work for the sector as a whole, thanks to the mapping by consortium members of their supply chains on a common digital platform, TransparencyOne, an ISN company.

For Marion Decroix, Sustainability and Quality Director at Groupe Rocher : "We're delighted to be joining the Trasce consortium, whose approach is perfectly in line with the dynamic that Groupe Rocher has been pursuing for many years on its plant filières, in particular. More than ever, we are convinced that it is through the strength of the collective that we will be able to deepen our knowledge of our supply chains, while touching on other types of raw materials as well as the filières relating to our packaging. With a view to improving practices throughout our value chain to make them ever more sustainable and responsible, Trasce will enable us to accelerate on all these issues and encourage even closer collaboration with all our partners."

According to Stéphane Faustin-Leybach, Naos Purchasing Director: "A committed and engaging company, NaoS has always had a vocation to love, understand and care for living things. Very early on, we established our approach to transparency as one of our fundamental pillars, which took concrete form with the launch of our Ask.NAOS tool, the digital platform that deciphers in detail the composition of our brands' products. Our joining the Trasce consortium only serves to confirm our determination to make the cosmetics sector ever more sustainable."

"At Laboratoires Expanscience, we know that more than half of our environmental impact is upstream of the manufacturing process. As a company with a mission since 2021 and a certified B-Corp, we want to play a role in the transition of the sector and society, and are convinced that well-being is a collective issue. Joining the Trasce consortium enables us to continue our long-standing work on the traceability of our filières, while collaborating with players in the sector to bring about strong and lasting change in the supply chains, cultivation methods and production of the materials we use in our products."says Laurent Schatz, Purchasing Director at Laboratoires Expanscience.

Photo: dungthuyvunguyen / Pixabay

Innovative, lightweight dropper bottle

ELIXIR Stoelzle

Stoelzle Parfumerie & Cosmétiques is delighted to launch Elixir, an addition to its collection of standard cosmetic bottles. This elegant dropper bottle with its sophisticated look focuses on durability and practicality. 

Its classic cylindrical shape, a popular choice for cosmetics, fits in perfectly as an alternative to existing designs on the market. Opting for a standard bottle offers significant advantages, including no development costs and shorter delivery times. 

In the near future, Stoelzle will also be offering lightweight bottles for fragrances, extending its commitment to innovative, sustainable packaging solutions. 

Elixir represents a real evolution in packaging design; Stoelzle has achieved a significant reduction in weight: at just 53 grams, Elixir approaches a 32 % reduction in the current range. This innovative approach makes the bottle easier to use and underlines Stoelzle's commitment to sustainability. Elixir's lightweight design results in a 32 % reduction in CO2 compared with Stoelzle's standard 30 ml bottles. 

To complement Elixir, Stoelzle offers a wide range of matching closures to ensure precise dosage and easy handling; various pumps, pipettes, sprays and more are compatible with this new bottle, available in high-quality materials with different finishes. This attention to detail guarantees beautifully packaged, easy-to-use products. 

Stoelzle's Standard Collection offers a wide range of customizable glass bottles and jars. With an integrated decoration workshop, Stoelzle offers more than 20 decoration techniques, from lacquering to silk-screening and durable powder coating methods. This comprehensive personalization guarantees sophisticated packaging that stands out in the market and attracts attention. 

Glass remains one of the most sustainable packaging materials for cosmetics, and Stoelzle continues to lead the way in environmental management. Once again, the company has achieved EcoVadis Gold status, placing it in the top five percent of companies assessed; a highlight of Stoelzle's commitment to decarbonization, continuous innovation and environmental protection.

Eurofragance details its progress in its sustainable development report

Eurofragance

Spanish international composing house Eurofragance has published its 2023 sustainability report following its recent EcoVadis platinum rating. It shows significant progress, particularly in reducing direct emissions and water consumption.

Eurofragance's sustainable development actions focus on four main areas: safety throughout the value chain, commitment to the community, resource management and ethical business practices with our partners.

With the aim of reducing its environmental footprint while improving its positive social impact, last year the multinational took on new sustainability challenges, while increasing its sales by 20 %. "We have been able to increase our profitability by combining an ambitious market strategy with complex environmental and social responsibility objectives."says CEO Laurent Mercier.

Respect for people...

In its report, Eurofragance highlights several initiatives aimed at supporting its employees. For example, its "Workplace Flexibility and Well-being Program", which called on the services of an external psychologist, or its "Continuous Learning Plan" aimed at developing cross-functional skills in departments and subsidiaries, have been rolled out across all regions.

Gender parity in the workforce: Eurofragance emphasizes that its workforce is balanced (52 % women, 48 % men) and highlights an overall policy of fair wages. Women are well represented in management and executive positions.

The company has focused much of its efforts on "health and safety at work" (for its own employees) and on "customer health and safety", from suppliers to consumers. Its accident rate remains lower than the industry average.

... and resources

Eurofragance has created several indicators to measure its ESG achievements. These focus mainly on reducing resource use and waste production, while increasing recycling and reuse rates.

Hand in hand with our partners

Between 2021 and 2023, the company reduced its water consumption by 16 % and last year its direct emissions by 31 %. At the same time, it has reduced its use of plastic by reusing wooden pallets for 78 % of its European shipments and replacing single-use pipettes with glass cannulas in its laboratories.

Other resource-oriented measures include recycling outsourced mouillettes (strips of spray paper used to test fragrances) and turning them into notebooks, as well as electrifying the company's car fleet and increasing the efficiency of its solar panels.

"We are working closely with our partners to, together, ensure that we can address the UN's SDGs that apply to our industry. This covers actions relating to the environment, business ethics and good governance."says Diana March, Chief Sustainability & Technical Compliance Officer at Eurofragance, whose responsibilities include publishing the company's annual sustainability report. 

In particular, the report shows that 44 % of the Spanish perfume house's main suppliers are members of Sedex, an organization focused on managing sustainable practices along supply chains; 91 % have a code of ethics and 66 % of supplier partners have signed Eurofragance's code of ethics, representing 88 % of the company's purchasing value.

"For us in the fragrance industry, sourcing is the area that has the greatest impact on sustainable development. We are committed to continuing to work with our suppliers and partners to promote a more sustainable planet."Diana March continues.

Photo from the Eurofragance presentation video.

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