The Edison Awards, named after American inventor Thomas Edison, recognize innovative products and entrepreneurs. 

For the second year running, Cargill has won three Edison Awards for innovations in the fields of intelligent transport, social and cultural impact, and skincare and beauty solutions.

In the field of care and beauty, Cargill received the Bronze award for its BotaniDesign 105 product, a plant-based substitute for petrolatum. This 100 % naturally-occurring, plant-based and easily biodegradable solution is, according to Cargill, highly moisturizing and can be included in a range of personal care products.

This innovation, like the other two award-winning products, demonstrates Cargill's ability to draw on more than a century of experience in the food industry to innovate across a wide range of challenges facing its customers and consumers.

All entries were reviewed by the Edison Awards steering committee and an executive jury. The jury was made up of over 2,000 senior executives and academics from the fields of product development, design, engineering, science, marketing and education, as well as past winners.

The protective layer of the hair cuticle is an indicator of hair health. When the scales are smooth, moisture is trapped in the hair, which in turn looks healthy, beautiful and vital. On the other hand, if the scales are open and protruding, moisture is lost and the hair looks dull and frizzy. This process is reminiscent of the scales on a pine cone, which open and close according to the weather!

Mibelle Biochemistry has developed PinoPlex, a new, innovative and sustainable hair care ingredient inspired by the structure and reactions of pine cone scales. Derived from upcycling, the active ingredient is derived from pine cones (Pinus sylvestris) which are selected and collected by hand from French forests. To obtain these precious ingredients, we use a gentle, environmentally-friendly, microwave-assisted extraction process.

"PinoPlex is a powerful moisturizer for the hair shaft and can combat dry, damaged hair. It not only penetrates hair, but also retains water by leveling the hair cuticle, making hair smoother and shinier. This bioinspired ingredient prevents split ends and improves the integrity of the hair fiber, making it more resistant to daily stress and breakage. It also promotes the differentiation of keratinocytes in the hair matrix, enabling hair to grow healthier and stronger. PinoPlex is an ideal ingredient for a variety of hair care applications, such as split-end repairers, leave-in repair creams, leave-in overnight moisturizing conditioners and much more."says Mibelle Biochemistry.

At in-Cosmetics Global, held in Paris from April 16 to 18, 2024, Gattefossé unveiled a new lipophilic active ingredient: Eyeglorius, a certified organic multi-purpose solution capable of simultaneously treating signs of fatigue and opening up a palette of possibilities for skincare and make-up formulas.  

"In response to the skinification of make-up, Gattefossé wanted to offer brands a multifunctional solution. Drawing on our multiple areas of expertise, we have developed Eyeglorius, a unique lipophilic active ingredient that perfectly matches the expectations of formulators and consumers alike."explains Laurie Canel, Active Ingredients Product Manager at Gattefossé.

Selective extraction of lipophilic metabolites 

Consumer expectations: corrective make-up solutions infused with active ingredients. Dark circles and puffiness are difficult to treat: dysfunctional microcirculation, excessive vascular permeability, oxidation and inflammation are all responsible for the appearance of signs of fatigue. 

Gattefossé's research team has sought to address this problem by capturing suitable molecules in the plant world.

Triterpenic acids (mainly ursolic, maslinic and oleanolic acids) have recognized effects on skin microcirculation, reducing inflammation-induced vascular permeability and reinforcing endothelial barrier function. They also offer interesting potential for degrading the red pigment in dark circles.   

Gattefossé has turned its attention to sea buckthorn leaves, renowned for their remarkable phytochemical richness, particularly in triterpene compounds. A supply chain via a Canadian family orchard ensures the traceability and high organic quality of the raw material. 

In an upcycling initiative, in September Gattefossé recovers unused leaves from sea buckthorn branches, initially hand-harvested for their berries, which are then transformed into juices, sorbets or jams.

Based on eco-design principles, the process developed optimizes triterpene acid content while ensuring quality, safety and energy efficiency, in line with the company's CSR commitments.   

Thomas Rinaldi, R&D engineer in plant chemistry for Gattefossé, sums up this phase of the research: "Using bio and chemoguidance, we evaluated different solvents, focusing on extraction performance, biological activity, environmental footprint and reproducibility. Our aim was to achieve an energy-efficient process without compromising efficiency. Supercritical CO2 has a unique and marked affinity for the extraction of apolar compounds, as well as a controlled environmental impact. This solvent quickly became our first choice.

After extraction, the plant material is solubilized in an oily compound of plant origin, guaranteeing the lipophilicity, stability and formulability of the active ingredient. 

A versatile active solution

Gattefossé's skin biology team has set up a comprehensive study program to cover the pathophysiology of dark circles and puffiness, working on biopsy-derived endothelial cells. 

"Introducing endothelial cells into our laboratory was a real challenge on this project. They were a new cell type for us. We had to learn everything about them: evaluate culture media and seeding densities, control their proliferation capacities, establish test kinetics... Moreover, our cells are primary cells extracted from biopsies, not cell lines: they have to be handled with great care, but are also closer to physiological reality."says Chloé Lorion, R&D skin biology engineer at Gattefossé.  

Tested on a model of human dermal microvascular endothelial cells stressed by TNF-α, Eyeglorius leads to a significant reduction in vascular permeability, responsible for the appearance of dark circles and edema, according to Gattefossé. In addition, Eyeglorius promotes hemoglobin degradation and prevents its oxidation, key factors in under-eye hyperpigmentation.  

Two double-blind clinical studies confirm the effectiveness of Eyeglorius in reducing signs of fatigue. Tested against a placebo, the active ingredient achieved a significant reduction in puffiness volume, combined with a lighter color and reduced surface area for dark circles. "Gattefossé claims: "The eyes are beautified, sparkling, as if re-energized.

Thanks to its lipophilic composition, Eyeglorius is a versatile technical ally for formulators, with a wide range of possible applications in O/W and W/O formulas. Heat-resistant, it can also be incorporated into stick formulas or in one-pot processes. 

Eyeglorius is 100 % of natural origin according to ISO16128, certified organic, RSPO MB certified and NMPA China notified.

_{Photo : © Alina Kuptsova / Pixabay}

The winners of the in-Cosmetics Global Awards 2024 were revealed on Tuesday April 16. The 40-member jury selected 21 winners from 83 finalists.

Prize for the best ingredient in the innovation zone

Raw materials and ingredients manufacturer dsm-firmenich has won gold for the Innovation Zone's Best Ingredient Award in the Active Ingredients category for its Eterwell Youth product, a senolytic active made from an extract of Epilobium Fleischeri leaf/stem. The ingredient stimulates collagen, helps reverse skin damage induced by excess zombie cells, and helps slow premature skin aging, among other benefits.

Cosmetic ingredients supplier Mibelle Biochemistry won the Silver award for RejuveNAD, an active ingredient that optimizes cellular functions to revitalize skin by naturally stimulating the longevity molecule, NAD+. Codif TN received the Bronze award for its Regetaste, which reinforces the skin's barrier function, reducing desquamation and leaving skin smoother, softer, fresher and more radiant.

In the functional ingredients category, Evonik, a supplier of specialty chemicals, won first prize for its Ecohance Remo XP, a versatile, mild ingredient that acts as a rheology modifier, hydrophilic emollient and sensory enhancer. This functional ingredient can be used in a wide range of personal care applications.

Silver was won by Galaxy Surfactants Ltd, India's leading manufacturer of surfactants and specialty skincare ingredients, for its Galseer DermaGreen natural dermal cleanser.

Lubrizol Life Science, a leading partner in product design, development and manufacturing, won the bronze award for Carbopol Fusion S-20 polymer, its natural and inherently biodegradable rheology modifier for cleaning systems.

Green ingredient price

The 2024 Gold Award for Green Ingredient went to Boreal Bioproducts' SpruceSugar ingredient, a biodegradable agent that forms a protective film against grease, an anionic surfactant and a low-viscosity modifier.

Ashland won silver for its Perfectyl biofunctional, a high-tech chamomile extract, inspired by new aesthetic techniques, to clarify and smooth skin blemishes for all ethnic groups. LignoGuard(R) Aqua 20 from Lignovations, an ecological multifunctional based on recycled lignin, won the bronze award.

Kenvue Trusted Science Award

The Kenvue Trusted Science Award recognizes innovative and effective modern ingredients that consumers can rely on for their daily skincare needs. 

Basf won the gold award for its Hydrasensyl Glucan Green, a bioferment that offers skin-smoothing and moisturizing benefits, both immediately and over time.

Tego Filmstar One MB from Evonik Industries won the silver award for its biosourced and biodegradable 100 % film-forming product. Immunight from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics won the bronze award for its ecologically processed oil-soluble lavandin extract, which helps stimulate skin recovery overnight.

Rising star" award

The Rising Star Award recognizes new talent and first- and second-year exhibitors at the show. Kaffe Bueno and Skinosive are the winners of this award. Kaffe Bueno is a Danish start-up specializing in the recycling of coffee by-products. Skinosive is a scientific dermo-cosmetic biotechnology company developing a technological platform for skin photoprotection.

Make-up bar and sensory bar prices

In the Make-Up Bar Award category, the gold prize went to the international manufacturer of pearlescent and metallic effect pigments, Eckart GmbH, for its Trend Colors Autumn & Winter 2025/26. Silver went to Imerys Talc Europe for its Matte lipstick ceremony, a lipstick enriched with ImerCare 400D (Inci : Diatomaceous earth), which gives lips a matte finish while retaining a creamy effect. Nikko Chemicals, a global supplier of ingredients for cosmetics, won the bronze award for Rei-Sei-Bi - Cold Process Beauty. 

In the Sensory Bar Award category, the gold medal went to ingredient distributor and manufacturer Microcaps AG, for its natural, ethanol-free perfume pearls. Univar Solutions, a global distributor of chemicals and ingredients, won silver for its Lavish Lavender Oil-free Massage Gel. Cosmetics manufacturer Technature was awarded bronze for its latest innovation, SkinSitu Caps, a small tablet that transforms into a cleansing foam as soon as it encounters water. 

Sustainable stand award

A new prize - the Sustainable Stand Award - recognized exhibitors who had actively implemented eco-conscious measures in the design and construction of their stands. 

Gold was awarded to Ravetllat Aromatics S.L., which took into account its sustainability credentials and measures, from waste reduction and recycling to material reuse, heritage, CO2 emissions and much more.

The in-Cosmetics Gobal trade show was held in Paris from April 16 to 18, 2024.