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Cosmetic Valley joins the Value of Beauty Alliance 

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The Value of Beauty alliance, created at the start of 2024, aims to bring together all players in the European beauty and personal care value chain. Its aim is to raise awareness and understanding of the positive impact of the entire value chain in Europe, both economically and socially.

The Cosmetic Valley cluster, coordinator of the French perfumery and cosmetics industry and founder and pilot of the Go4Cosmetics European network formalized by the European Commission in 2021, has joined the consortium whose members are Albéa, Ancorotti Cosmetics, Beiersdorf, DSM-Firmenich Fiabila, Givaudan, IFF, KIKO Milano, L'Oréal Groupe, Patyka and Puig.

Cosmetic Valley reminds us that the beauty and personal care sector plays an essential economic and societal role in Europe. However, the importance and scale of the beauty value chain is often underestimated. The industry is a cornerstone of European excellence, contributing over 29 billion euros to the economy every year and employing nearly 3 million people.1 . The sector invests around 2.35 billion euros in research and development every year.2.

The aim of the Value of Beauty alliance is to bring together players in the European beauty and personal care value chain to raise awareness of the importance of cosmetics and the positive contribution the industry makes to Europe, both economically and socially. The alliance is open to any company in the European beauty value chain, including private companies and trade associations.

1. Eurostat (2015).
2. Cosmetics Europe & Euromonitor International (2023). Market Performance: European Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Data.

Photo: © Lubov Lisitsa / Pixabay

Absorption and adsorption of packaging materials: what content/container interactions?

site-industries-cosmetiques A collection of wooden containers filled with cream is arranged on a wooden surface, exhibiting a certain self-drawn charm. The containers vary in size and shape, some opening to reveal the cream inside. The background includes fuzzy greenery and additional containers.

Review of absorption and adsorption phenomena in packaging materials: content/container interactions, focus on materials of synthetic, mineral, vegetable or animal origin.

Issue 42 of Industries Cosmétiques has published an expert opinion written by Expertox on this key topic. To read the full article, simply click on the button below.

5gzomMAMoI- Expert opinion - Market info

Silab wins second prize for its Inclusium asset 

Silab INCLUSIUM - Ringier Technology Innovation Award

Silab's multifunctional natural active Inclusium won the Ringier Technology Innovation Award in the Anti-aging Ingredients category. 

On April 25, in Shanghai, Silab received an Icic Award in the Raw Material Innovation category for its Inclusium active ingredient at the International Cosmetics Innovation Conference.

Inclusium, a multifunctional natural active ingredient, was once again honored on July 18 in Shanghai: it won the Ringier Technology Innovation Award in the Anti-aging Ingredients category. 

To develop this active ingredient, Silab surveyed consumers' main skin characteristics according to ethnicity, gender and age. The three main areas of beauty that emerge are all driven by biological mechanisms acting on the dermis and epidermis. Silab has therefore set up a large-scale exploratory study using tissue engineering and transcriptomics. 

Five clinical studies were also carried out on mixed groups of young and mature volunteers (Caucasian, Asian, Latin American and African-American).

"We welcome this new award with pride. It is proof that the transversal efficacy of our active ingredient is attracting the interest of the global cosmetics industry thanks to its ability to sublimate all skin types".commented Brigitte Closs-Gonthier, Chairman of the Board and General Manager in charge of R&D, Quality and Communications at Silab.

According to Silab, Inclusium meets universal cosmetic expectations thanks to its hydra-smoothing and complexion-perfecting properties after just seven days of treatment, and its clinically-proven anti-ageing effect.

New PVC-free ephemeral adhesive

site-industries-cosmetiques A person with a shaved head and beard replaces a poster in a frame. The poster, featuring an image of a woman's face and the text "0 % discount", is adjusted at the top edge by the person, who appears to be demonstrating meticulous precision, rather like a craftsman honing his craft.

Fedrigoni Self-Adhesives presents F-Jet Natural Fibers for a new alternative to traditional monomer films for indoor graphics applications, using 100 % recycled paper. In addition to having a lower environmental impact than PVC, F-Jet Natural Fibers can be printed using the same technologies as vinyl-based materials, guaranteeing top-quality results.

This innovative self-adhesive solution reinvents the world of advertising campaigns, challenging the supremacy of traditional monomeric films and reducing the use of plastics. F-Jet Natural Fibers is Fedrigoni Self-Adhesives' new creation for large-format digital printing. Developed with a paper side composed of natural PCR fibers free of plastic components (PVC, PE, PP, PU and PET), F-Jet Natural Fibers is printable with Latex and UV inks. Main applications include point-of-sale advertising, glass decoration and indoor billboards. Compared with standard monomeric PVC film, life-cycle analysis of F-Jet Natural Fibers shows significant reductions in energy, water and CO2 emissions. The "ultra-removable" acrylic-based adhesive technology also guarantees easy application and residue-free removal.

F-Jet Natural Fibers offers indoor advertising markets a solution that not only performs well, but is also more environmentally friendly than traditional products.says Daniele Perotti, Global Graphics Product & Business Development Manager for Fedrigoni Self-Adhesives. F-Jet Natural Fibers is the fruit of extensive analysis and research aimed at providing an innovative and conscious response to the needs of the graphics industry. A sector which, thanks to the recent acquisition of the Poli-Tape Group, is playing an increasingly important role for Fedrigoni. ".

Suncare products: the challenge of evaluating their protection factor

site-industries-cosmetiques A person is standing on the beach on a sunny day, smiling and looking up. They are holding a bottle of high SPF sunscreen in their right hand and have a heart-shaped sunscreen application on their left shoulder. The ocean is in the background under a clear sky.

Assessing the efficacy of sun protection products is a complex task, given the different approaches used, whether they be in silico, in vitro, in vivo or hybrid products. The main criteria affecting performance include composition, photostability, absorption and distribution of inorganic and organic filters, organoleptic and galenic characteristics (such as spray, powder compact, oil, cream, etc.). In addition, other factors such as wrinkles, body zone, perspiration, hair, application method and quantity used also influence the efficacy of sunscreen products.

Issue 42 of Industries Cosmétiques has published an expert opinion written by Skinobs on this central theme. To read the full article, simply click on the button below.

IqOtd2Mwgk- Expert opinion - Market news

Grenoble INP - Pagora and Albéa Tubes France strengthen their partnership

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The International School of Paper, Printed Communication and Biomaterials, Grenoble INP - Pagora, UGA, and Albéa Tubes France, a company specializing in the production of cosmetic tubes, have signed a three-year partnership agreement.

Complementary and mutually interested in developing their links, the engineering school and Albéa Tubes France will be setting up a series of joint initiatives in the fields of teaching, research and the identification of future talent.

With special offers of work-study contracts, internships, projects, expert talks and factory visits in France and abroad, Grenoble INP - Pagora engineering and masters students can take advantage of opportunities at Albéa Tubes France, a major player in the production of cosmetic tubes, in plastic or printed bio-sourced materials. With an international presence, the company offers a wide range of professions.

To attract and support talent from other countries, Albéa Tubes France has also committed to funding scholarships for international masters students.

Originally specializing in paper, cardboard and bio-based materials, Grenoble INP - Pagora will be able to strengthen its roots in the plastics and packaging industries, providing new skills and innovations for the transition to the use of fibrous materials for packaging, with reduced environmental impact in both production and recycling.

Photo: © StockSnap / Pixabay

An innovative cold-effect rotary applicator

TNT group Chanel N°1

As prime contractor for the project, TNT Group worked closely with Chanel and FaiveleyTech to develop the patented cold-acting rotary applicator for Chanel's new N°1 Revitalizing Eye Serum, designed to massage and refresh the eye contour area.

The applicator, which has a total of eight components, is structured into two mechanical sub-assemblies articulated together by two polyketone rings (POK) - a family of high-performance thermoplastic polymers - to ensure long-term rotary functionality.

The first sub-assembly consists of the textured head and stem, in stainless steel. The second comprises two end caps and a shaft, also in stainless steel. The upper endpiece is used to assemble the PP insert, designed to be screwed onto the thread of the glass bottle.

According to the TNT Group teams, a good compromise was found between the depth of the texture and the polishing process of the applicator head. The challenge was also to achieve fluid, durable rotation between the two sub-assemblies, as the applicator can be reused on a "refill" bottle.

The applicator is combined with a cap produced by FaiveleyTech in Supalac, an alternative material to traditional plastic made from sustainable and responsible raw materials from post-consumer, post-industrial or post-agricultural recycling that can be digested by natural micro-organisms and leaves no microplastics.

Personalized skin care thanks to artificial intelligence

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman's face is divided into two halves called HD and SD. The left half (HD) shows skin imperfections with green and red marks, highlighting wrinkles and imperfections. The right half (SD), like an auto draft, appears smoother with fewer markings.

Perfect Corp. specialist in artificial intelligence (AI) and augmented reality (AR), and developer of 'Beautiful AI' solutions, has announced the launch of its high-definition (HD) skin analysis solution, enabling skin scans in HD thanks to AI.

Perfect Corp.'s newly enhanced AI model is trained on an image dataset with twice the definition compared to its standard definition counterpart, according to its developers. Thanks to this, the HD skin analysis solution can now identify and analyze skin problems even more accurately than before.

For targeted skin care, the new HD tool also features zone detection. By analyzing the user's skin in specific areas of the face, AI provides a more nuanced image of a person's face. 

"At Perfect Corp. we're constantly pushing the boundaries of what's possible in AI Skin Tech, says Alice Chang, founder and CEO of Perfect Corp. Our new HD skin analysis solution represents a significant leap forward. By training the AI model with images of twice the resolution, we're reaching new heights of precision and personalization, enabling users to achieve their unique skincare goals. HD skin analysis enables skincare brands, estheticians, pharmacists and dermatologists to offer the best treatment on a case-by-case basis."

Cosmetic Valley: 30 years old!

CosmeticValley-30 years

"We've turned challenges into opportunities, helping companies to transform themselves and tame the major digital, ecological, technological and geopolitical transitions of the future. We have helped to define, create and expand a competitive, bold and sustainable industry".said Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley, as he celebrated the cluster's 30th anniversary. Some 400 industry professionals, decision-makers, researchers, local councillors, government representatives and international partners gathered at the Château de Chambord on June 20, 2024, to celebrate the cluster's 30th anniversary.

Created in 1994, with the aim of structuring a sector, federating players in the cosmetics industry for export, and promoting innovation, Cosmetic Valley brings together the full range of expertise, from plant cultivation to finished products, as well as the schools, research centers and universities involved in the field. This ecosystem is made up of more than 80 % small and medium-sized businesses working alongside the industry's ETIs and groups to boost employment in France.

Employment is one of the cluster's priorities, and a driving force behind regional economic development. Among its recent initiatives, in partnership with ten leading companies in the sector, it has deployed a digital communication campaign aimed at attracting talent, highlighting the excellence of the sector as well as its ambitious commitments in terms of ecological and digital transition, affirming its decisive role in the economy and innovation.

Cosmetic Valley also represents the interests of the cosmetics industry to institutions. The cluster acts as an influential spokesperson for the cosmetics industry, representing the sector's interests to regional, national and European bodies. This position aims to ensure that policies take into account the specificities and needs of the cosmetics industry. Since 2022, the establishment of an office in Brussels has enabled the cluster to strengthen its relations with the European authorities, represent the French perfumery and cosmetics sector in Europe, and effectively support French players in European funding programs and support for economic development, innovation and industry.

Cosmetic Valley supports French companies in their export activities through market intelligence and collective operations at international trade shows, in partnership with the French state agency Business France. In addition, it has created the Global Cosmetics Cluster association, which aims to increase international collaboration, both for business and for research and innovation projects, by creating networking and partnership opportunities. 

In October, the competitiveness cluster will organize the 10th edition of the Cosmetic 360 international trade show.

"We were regional, we became hexagonal, we were French. We became international. We administered the moment. We dared to innovate. We weren't considered enough. We've become the second-largest contributor to our country's balance of trade.said Marc-Antoine Jamet.

Facing recruitment challenges in the cosmetics industry

site-industries-cosmetiques Two women sit at a desk, one holding a pen and pointing at a laptop screen while the other looks on with a smile. Discussing the latest recruitment strategies for the cosmetics industry, their desk contains a coffee mug, a notebook and some papers. Sunlight streams through the windows in the background.

The cosmetics industry is evolving at a rapid pace, driven by innovation, the constant search for convincing brand promises or differentiating ingredients, and growing consumer demand for high value-added products.

In this particularly dynamic world, recruiting expert managers is of vital importance for companies wishing to remain at the cutting edge of the industry.

The cosmetics sector is unique and requires a multi-dimensional approach to talent. Not only are the desired scientific skills essential, but creativity and a marked sensitivity to the world of cosmetics are also essential. trend market and understanding consumer concerns are just as fundamental.

Executive search in this industry is a perpetual quest to discover passionate and creative profiles, capable of pushing back the boundaries of innovation. Scientific experts, from formulation to product development, marketing or regulatory specialists all converge to form a diverse group, capable of transforming ideas into trend-setting products.

However, recruitment in this sector also presents considerable challenges. Competition to attract and retain the best is fierce, both locally and internationally. Companies must therefore not only offer sustainable competitive advantages, but also create a stimulating working environment that encourages creativity, promotes professional development and personal fulfillment.

Moreover, a virtuous company will offer superior attractiveness, an important criterion to be valued in the recruitment process. Consumers are aware of the industry's ethical and responsible practices, and are pushing the industry to integrate these values into their corporate culture and best practices, leading them to seek out candidates who share the same convictions.

Last but not least, recruitment in the cosmetics industry is not limited to the big players. Start-ups and independent brands are playing an increasingly crucial role in this landscape of innovation and creativity, offering any potential candidate an attractive alternative to the established giants.

In short, the search for talent in this very specific world is much more than a simple quest for technical skills. Above all, it's a relentless search for passionate, visionary and creative profiles ready to shape the future of these companies.

Philippe Sibour, founder of Alliance Consulting

Photo: © u_390ap8znhu / Pixabay

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