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Christian Dior celebrates Chinese New Year with Pure Trade

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The editorial staff
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Christian Dior - Pure Trade

The Chinese New Year or Lunar New Year (CNY), one of the most important events in Chinese tradition, but also in other Asian countries, was celebrated this year on February 10, 2024.

For the occasion, Dior entrusted Pure Trade with the creation of a set of boxes and envelopes.

This ensemble soberly combines the codes of the House of Dior and those of CNY.

Emblematic of these festive days, the "Lucky Money" envelopes are made of FSC paper, decorated with a shiny transparent motif, a gold hot-stamped band, and the Christian Dior logo, also hot-stamped in gold. They come in sets of eight, in a large envelope, accompanied by a greetings card from the House of Dior.

A mini-case, also in red-tinted FSC paper, holds a lipstick. It closes with a cord that wraps around two buttons decorated with the embossed, then gold-stamped monogram.

Finally, two rigid (S & M) and two folding (M & L) FSC paper boxes, also decorated with embossed motifs and gold hot stamping, including the brand logo, can be used to create gift boxes.

Launch of the second promotion of the Cosmetics Accelerator

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The editorial staff
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Cosmetic products

Bpifrance and the Direction Générale des Entreprises, in partnership with Cosmetic Valley and the FEBEA, are launching the second promotion of the "Cosmetics Accelerator", a program designed to encourage the development of cosmetics companies. 

a support system for company managers.

For the selected companies, the program includes 18 months of in-depth structuring, innovation and adaptation to current and future challenges, as well as the establishment of a sustainable growth trajectory.

This applies to SMEs and ETIs in the cosmetics sector - ingredients and formulation, manufacturing, packaging, distribution and brands - that meet the following conditions: sales in excess of €2 million, a minimum workforce of 10 and at least three years in business.

"Following the launch of the first Cosmetics Accelerator promotion in June 2022, FEBEA is delighted to see this project with Bpifrance continue with the establishment of a second promotion starting in 2024. Open to managers of cosmetics SMEs and ETIs, this new support program, with its broader scope, will enable them to respond to the sector's current key challenges (ecological transition, recruitment, digital transformation...) and to place their company in a sustainable and responsible growth strategy."says Emmanuel Guichard, General Delegate of Febea.

Alexandra Palt steps down as L'Oréal CSR Director, succeeded by Ezgi Barcenas

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The editorial staff
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Alexandra Palt and Ezgi Barcenas - L'Oréal

L'Oréal has announced the departure of Alexandra Palt from her position as CSR General Manager, effective April 1, 2024, to focus on new projects.

Managing Director of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR), Alexandra Palt has launched Group and industry-wide environmental transparency initiatives, such as Product Impact Labelling (PIL) and the EcoBeautyScore. 

In 2020, it also launched the L'Oréal for the FutureL'Oréal's "Triple A" rating, an operational roadmap for greater respect for the environment. Under his leadership, the L'Oréal group has achieved eight consecutive "Triple A" ratings from the CDP.

Under her leadership, the group has also invested in various philanthropic programs, notably via the L'Oréal Foundation and its international For Women in Science program, as well as with the L'Oréal Fund for Women supporting local organizations fighting violence against women and promoting their empowerment worldwide. Alexandra Palt has also launched two impact investment funds: the L'Oréal Fund for the Regeneration of Nature and the Circular Innovation Fund. 

As Chief Sustainability Officer Alexandra Palt joined the L'Oréal group in 2013. She was appointed to the Executive Committee as CSR General Manager in 2019. She will continue as Executive Director of the L'Oréal Foundation until June 30, 2024, after which she will sit as a member of the Board of Directors of the L'Oréal Foundation.

Ezgi Barcenas will join the L'Oréal group on March 1, 2024 as his successor.

Chief Sustainability Officer and member of the AB InBev brewing group's management team, Ezgi Barcenas set up and led the global sustainability function, having conceived AB InBev's ambitious "Net-zero by 2040" program. 

Ezgi Barcenas also oversaw the award-winning 100+ Accelerator sustainable startup program. Based in New York, she led cross-functional teams focused on agricultural development, water management, circular packaging and climate action to build a resilient and thriving value chain spanning nearly 50 countries.

Recently named to Time magazine's "Time100 Climate" list, Ezgi Barcenas In 2022, the company was also recognized as a Sustainability Trailblazer by the Responsible Business Awards from Reuters. 

"I would like to thank Alexandra for her commitment, which over the last 12 years has led to a profound transformation of L'Oréal's economic and social model, in line with the planetary limits defined by environmental science, said Nicolas Hieronimus, Managing Director of L'Oréal Groupe. Her courage, energy and vision have enabled L'Oréal to establish itself as a pioneering company, working to reconcile economic performance with a positive impact on the planet and society. The choice of Ezgi Barcenas, a recognized expert and leader in climate issues, to succeed Alexandra, is a strong sign of L'Oréal's renewed commitment to its transformation in terms of sustainable development and social responsibility."   

Photos: left: Alexandra Palt © L'Oréal right: Ezgi Barcenas (photo taken from Ezgi Barcenas's Linkedin profile)

French cosmetics: record exports

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The editorial staff
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Make-up

According to data released by the Fédération des entreprises de la beauté (Febea), French cosmetics exports are on the up, despite less buoyant markets. For the first time, they exceeded the €20 billion mark.

In 2023, French cosmetics exports rose by +10.8% year-on-year to 21.3 billion euros. 

Make-up and facial care products rank first with an increase of +9.9 % (€11 bn) followed by fragrances, up +10.5 % (€7.1 bn). Perfume exports have doubled since 2019. Hair care products recorded the strongest growth (+15.8 %).

Europe and the United States, leading customers for French cosmetics

The leading export market for French cosmetics, the European Union accounts for 40.2 % (€8.6 Bn) of total exports, a share up +20.8% compared to 2022. Germany, Spain and Italy remain the top three importers of French cosmetics. In Europe, make-up and facial care recorded the strongest growth with +23.6 % (€3.7 bn), followed by perfumes, which rose by 18.3 % (€2.9 bn).

The United States remains the world's leading buyer of French cosmetics. In particular, one in five perfume products is exported there. However, growth in this market has slowed considerably, to 2.8 % in 2023, compared with 26.7% the previous year.

Growth in the US market was driven by fragrances, with +1.9 % growth (€1.2 bn), followed by make-up and facial care, with +5.3 % growth (€1.1 bn).

China and the Middle East: a slowdown

In 2023, the Chinese market will grow by +1.7% to reach €1.99 billion in cosmetics exports, down on 2022 (+5% that year). Growth in China remains primarily driven by the "Make-up and facial care" category, up 2.9 % (€1.7 bn). One in four French lipsticks is now exported to China. Perfumes, for their part, show growth of +2.5% in 2023. By contrast, the "Body hygiene and care" category, which rounds out the top 3 exported products, is losing 29.6 % in China.

In the Middle East, exports of French cosmetics fell by -2.9 %, due in particular to a sharp drop in exports to Saudi Arabia (-19 %), partly offset by growth in the United Arab Emirates (+6 %).

"Despite major disparities between countries, French cosmetics continue to enjoy remarkable international growthsays Emmanuel Guichard, General Delegate of Febea. Passing the symbolic milestone of 20 billion euros shows that the sector continues to win over consumers the world over, thanks to its innovation and ability to respond to their changing expectations. The industry, more than 80 % of which is made up of VSEs and SMEs, makes a major contribution to improving France's trade balance, and continues to increase the attractiveness of French cosmetics worldwide."

In all, over 60 % of French cosmetics production is exported. The sector is now the second-largest contributor to the positive balance of trade, behind the aeronautics sector and ahead of wines & spirits.

Febea notes that "made in France" remains an essential asset for the cosmetics sector.

These annual estimates are based on official customs figures for January to November 2023 inclusive. December results have been estimated on the basis of the average for the 11 months of 2023.

Photo: © Xaara Novack / Pixabay

Lancôme X Louvre: the two applicators on the Richelieu palette are made by Cosmogen

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The editorial staff
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Cosmogen - Lancôme x Louvre

Inspired by nine masterpieces of sculpture and the lights and colors of the Louvre Museum, Lancôme has created a new skincare and make-up collection: Lancôme x Louvre. Included in this collection is the Richelieu palette, a make-up palette.

While Texen Beauty Partners was responsible for the make-up paletteCosmogen created the two mini double applicators inserted in the palette. Their black handle with aluminum ferrule accommodates three NBR foam tips and a beveled PBT bristle tuft, for professional application of shades and materials to all areas of the face.

With the multi-purpose Richelieu palette, Lancôme celebrates the sculpture of Corine, a Greek poetess from the 5th century BC, exhibited in the Richelieu wing of the Louvre. The poetry of this palette, created by Lisa Eldridge, is inspired by the magnetic light of the gallery, punctuated by the relief of the sculptures, revealing their silent but surprising beauty.

Expert in the application of skincare and make-up, Cosmogen offers a wide choice of eco-designed, fully-customizable mini-applicators. Handle: aluminum, RPP, RPET; RPET or PBT tuft from production by-products (Post Industrial Recycling). The company's in-house product lifecycle analysis tool, specifically dedicated to brushes, enables the impact of each of the solutions proposed to be measured.

Gilles Andrier (DG Givaudan) to receive Hall of Fame Award from The Fragrance Foundation

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The editorial staff
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Gilles Andrier - Givaudan

Gilles Andrier, CEO of Givaudan, will receive the prestigious Hall of Fame Award from The Fragrance Foundation (TFF) at the Fragrance Foundation Awards ceremony in New York on June 5, 2024. This annual award recognizes and celebrates "outstanding individuals, innovations and achievements within the American fragrance industry."

Gilles Andrier began his career with Givaudan in 1993. He held several key positions, including Director of Fragrance Operations in the USA, Head of Functional Fragrances for Europe, Head of Fine Fragrances for Europe and Global Head of Fine Fragrances, before being appointed CEO of Givaudan in 2005. During his tenure, he led the company's global development and redefined its strategic direction. During this period, Givaudan made major acquisitions and experienced significant growth.

"On behalf of Givaudan, I am incredibly honored and touched to receive The Fragrance Foundation's Hall of Fame Award 2024. This award honors all Givaudan employees for their creativity, passion and contribution to our wonderful fine fragrance industry, said Gilles Andrier. Being part of this beautiful industry, one of art and craftsmanship combined with innovation, has had a profound effect on my life. The power of fragrance to stir emotions, evoke memories and bring joy to people's lives is a lasting contribution we can all be proud of."

"Gilles Andrier is an exemplary and dynamic leader whose strategic vision and passion for the fragrance industry are evident in everything he does and in the way he leads. Our shared values and vision for the world of fragrance put people, products and perfumers at the heart of our business. Gilles Andrier has been at the forefront of sustainability and IED initiatives within his organization, building community and linking business goals with a love of nature. We are extremely proud to award this distinction in recognition of both Givaudan's and Gilles' legacy."said Linda Levy, President of The Fragrance Foundation.

Texen's new modular eye brush wins award at Makeup in Los Angeles

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The editorial staff
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Texen - Multi Intensity Brush Eyes

Unveiled at the recent Paris Packaging Week, the Multi Intensity Brush Eyes has just received an IT Award (in the accessories category) from Makeup in Los Angeles.

A year after the launch of its Multi Intensity Brush for the face, Texen Beauty Partners is applying the same concept to eye make-up. 

A patented innovation, the Multi Intensity Brush enables full face make-up to be applied with a single brush. Brush density and length can be adjusted by rotating the ferrule. Texen Beauty Partners is now extending the concept to eye make-up, following conclusive tests with brands. The Multi Intensity Brush Eyes uses an identical rotating mechanism for a thinner brush, this time with a double tip. 

One double tip, five uses

After observing make-up techniques and taking an interest in consumer expectations, Texen Beauty Partners has developed a double-ended brush featuring an adjustable brush and a fixed bevelled brush designed to apply a dense, ultra-defined line of eyeliner. 

On the other side, the oval-shaped ferrule allows for variable angles and positions. Applying a neutral base to the mobile eyelid, shading, widening the gaze, darkening the hollow of the eye, blending, blurring... all the gestures of an eye make-up routine are envisaged, whatever the shape of the eye or the texture of the skin. 

"This single brush guarantees a make-up result for which five brushes of different shapes and densities would have been needed. Space-saving, this brush offers the essentials of a routine we're not prepared to compromise on. It's up to us to create the compromise between innovation and use".explains Nathasha Marquez, Marketing Manager at Texen Beauty Partners.

Offered with a PBT handle and bristles, Multi Intensity Brush Eyes can be produced in any type of material, decorated on request, and even delivered in a made-to-measure pouch.

DSM-Firmenich acquires remaining DSM shares 

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The editorial staff
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dsm-firmenich

The DSM-Firmenich Group, the result of the merger of Firmenich and DSM in 2023, has completed the voluntary buyout offer for the DSM shares still in circulation. 

Some 4.16 million shares, representing approximately 2.4 % of the shares, were tendered to the company under this voluntary tender offer. The company now holds approximately 98.5 % of the shares.

The remaining shares will be bought back through the regulatory buy-back procedure initiated with the Companies Chamber of the Amsterdam Court of Appeal.

L'Oréal signs worldwide licensing agreement with Miu Miu

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The editorial staff
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L'Oréal

Miu Miu joins the L'Oréal Luxe division. L'Oréal Groupe and Prada S.p.A have announced the signing of a long-term, worldwide licensing agreement for the creation, development and distribution of Miu Miu brand luxury beauty products. 

Part of the Milan-based Prada group, with which the L'Oréal group already collaborates, the brand launched in 1993 by Miuccia Prada stands out for its bold risk-taking and its instinct for cultural evolutions and contemporary fashion trends. 

Cyril Chapuy, President of L'Oréal Luxe, comments: "In recent years, we have successfully established a solid partnership with the Prada teams. Today, we are delighted to welcome Miu Miu to develop the exceptional potential of the brand's beauty facet. With its singular positioning, driven by its boundless and experimental creative essence, Miu Miu will perfectly complement L'Oréal Luxe's portfolio of iconic brands, reinforcing its position as the world's leading fragrance company."

"We are delighted to announce this partnership with a leading beauty player such as L'Oréal. This new chapter will support the brand's growth and help unleash Miu Miu's full potential in this universe."says Miu Miu CEO Benedetta Petruzzo.

The agreement will come into force following regulatory approvals.

Skincare make-up products

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The editorial staff
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Glowy Blur Stick - Schwan

German cosmetics manufacturer Schwan Cosmetics will be presenting its new Glow Stick at MakeUp in LosAngeles, February 14-15, 2024.

Both corrector and illuminator, Glowy Blur Stick is a versatile make-up product with active skincare ingredients. The stick evens out skin tone, giving it a natural, rosy appearance for a healthy, luminous complexion. Its formulation includes hydrasalinol, ginger, salicornia, limnanthe seed oil and many other moisturizing and skin-protecting components. Its lightweight, serum-like vegan formula is a blend of skin care ingredients, jojoba and cocoa butter that help the product glide onto the skin and integrate seamlessly.

Glow Stick is a product that can be applied directly to the skin without the need for make-up tools. For a soft look, the product can be blended with a finger.

This product is a response to studies indicating that consumers want to see more active skincare ingredients in cosmetics, as well as to the strongly growing trend towards multi-purpose make-up, and the link between mind-body wellness and beauty routines. 

The stick is one of the expressions of Schwan Cosmetics' new Color & Care strategy, which offers the latest fashionable looks while providing make-up wearers with proven skincare benefits in products for the face, lips, eyes and eyebrows," says the company.

"The pandemic has sparked a huge upsurge in interest in skincare. While the scientifically proven benefits of skincare have mainly focused on skincare products such as moisturizers and serums, the demand for skincare ingredients in make-up has skyrocketed. Hence our strategy to develop our Color & Care range".explains Stefanie Strittmatter, Director Global Category Management LIP at Schwan Cosmetics.

The Power Up Your Pout lip pencil, also part of Schwan Cosmetics' new Color & Care range, was named a finalist in the MakeUp in Los Angeles "IT Awards". This lip pencil features interchangeable cartridges containing a formula infused with peptides and jojoba oil. It was recently launched by the company to plump, define and fill lips.

"With our Color & Care strategy, we want to demonstrate that with a sound scientific approach and advanced skincare ingredients, color cosmetics can achieve visible skincare results with the same level of effectiveness as skincare products themselves. The nomination of Power Up Your Pout is a great recognition of our efforts to provide the highest quality products that remain at the forefront of the latest trends."concludes Stefanie Strittmatter.

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