Oxi-inflammation, which particularly affects epidermal lipids, is considered one of the main causes of skin sensitivity to environmental aggressions. At in-Cosmetics Global, held in Amsterdam from April 8 to 10, 2025, French cosmetics ingredients supplier Gattefossé is announcing the launch of Noxifense, an active ingredient designed to transform the booming sensitive skin market through a 360° approach.
"The sensitive skin market is one of the most dynamic segments in skincare, stimulated by increasingly aggressive environmental factors such as UV exposure, pollution and stress. All skin types are concerned, making soothing skin care a new standard for the cosmetics industry. Over the last few years, our research team has explored the phenomenon of oxi-inflammation in depth, and has developed Noxifense, an innovative solution that protects the skin's essential lipids against deleterious oxi-inflammatory environments".explains Laurie Canel, Product Marketing Manager, Actifs Cosmétiques.
Sea buckthorn, a powerful antioxidant and inflammatory shield
As part of an upcycling approach, Gattefossé valorizes under-used sea buckthorn leaves from a family orchard in Quebec, Canada, managed under organic farming conditions.
Sea buckthorn, a versatile plant used for over 200 years in food, traditional medicine and horticulture, is particularly resilient. It thrives in extreme conditions thanks to its high content of protective polyphenols with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
"An optimized, energy-efficient extraction process has been developed to maximize the concentration of bioactive compounds. The final extract is rich in glycosylated flavonols and ellagic tannins, key molecules that contribute to Noxifense's soothing properties. This active ingredient is 100 % of natural origin, certified organic and preservative-free.says the company.
Protecting epidermal lipids from exposome aggression
According to Gattefossé, Noxifense is particularly effective in neutralizing the oxi-inflammatory environment caused by environmental aggression at the level of epidermal lipids.
Lipids play an essential protective role in the skin, but their complex structure and organization make it difficult to study them using conventional models. in vitro traditional.
"Our in-depth research program analyzes the entire oxi-inflammation process affecting epidermal lipids, from the stratum corneum to the keratinocyte membrane. We have developed innovative models that accurately simulate lipid peroxidation in the stratum corneum and viable epidermis under various external stresses (UV, pollution, cigarette smoke). These models were essential in demonstrating Noxifense's ability to break the oxi-inflammation cycle, says Chloé Lorion, skin biology R&D engineer.
Thanks to a dual mechanism of action, Noxifense inhibits the NF-kB pathway to limit inflammation while reinforcing the skin's antioxidant defense system, significantly reducing intracellular ROS levels.
Gattefossé reports that Noxifense significantly reduced skin sensitivity and improved overall comfort, texture and radiance in a clinical study of Asian volunteers with sensitive skin. The active ingredient significantly reduced skin sensitivity and improved overall comfort, texture and radiance.
