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PFAS bill: Cosmed calls for two-stage timetable

Photo cosmetics

The European Commission is due to submit a proposal to member states by 2025 for the universal restriction of all per- and polyfluoroalkylated substances (PFAS). France, for its part, is preparing a bill to ban the marketing of cosmetic products containing PFAS by January 1, 2026, ahead of Europe.

Cosmed, a trade association representing 1,030 cosmetics companies, has launched a PFAS working group to support the beauty industry in mastering this subject, in particular with a study of the impact of the use of this family of 4,000 chemical compounds, around 40 of which would concern cosmetic products.

While the association supports and encourages the abolition of PFAS in cosmetics, it advocates an alignment of the regulatory framework and the definition of criteria at European level, guaranteeing the free circulation of products through the establishment of a single market, and within a dual timeframe.

1- A ban on the intentional and direct addition of PFAS substances to the formula - the definition of a threshold

The cosmetics industry was quick to react to the PFAS issue, adopting alternatives to replace these substances in beauty products at an early stage. Substitution solutions are already available to formulators, and the industry remains committed to eliminating PFAS from cosmetic formulas.

However, according to Cosmed, this ban can only apply, in the first instance, to the intentional addition of PFAS to formulations. Thus, it is crucial to define a rational, implementable and verifiable threshold for PFAS content, in order to target these intentional additions. This will enable a clear interpretation of this intentionality and facilitate checks by the authorities.

2- PFAS in trace form: essential data collection

The widespread use of PFAS in many industrial sectors means that they may be present in trace amounts in products through packaging or water.

Water is often the main ingredient, accounting for between 60 % and 95 % of many creams, lotions, shower gels and shampoos.

With regard to packaging, Cosmed points out that the collection of potential presence can only be based on an exchange of information with suppliers. According to the organization, any collection of information that is not governed by a regulatory obligation is very delicate, if not practically impossible for SMEs. This uncertainty in data collection can only be resolved with a European rule.

Assessing the various possible sources of contamination and the associated trace levels requires data collection at all stages of the manufacturing chain. Cosmed stresses the importance of defining a realistic, phased implementation schedule to enable effective communication of information and gradual implementation of the restriction at all levels of the manufacturing chain, right through to the finished cosmetic product.

Photo: uluer servet yüce / Pixabay

An AI installation on Korean skincare in Paris

Amore Pacific - Exhibition ⓒ Korean Cultural Center

On the occasion of " Noli Korean Games", a major exhibition dedicated to the history of entertainment in Korea at the Korean Cultural Center in Paris, features an interactive space devoted entirely to futuristic experimentation. The public can discover works linked to new technologies. These include "The Authentic Color Play" by South Korean beauty giant Amore Pacific.

The Authentic Color Play presents a color analysis booth based on artificial intelligence (AI). This equipment analyzes visitors' physical traits, such as skin, hair and lip color, to discover the color palette that best suits them, and find the make-up colors best suited to each person: The Authentic Color Play offers the chance to discover a personal cosmetic universe in a fun way, based on each person's physical characteristics.

Visitors can discover the device and leave with a QR code enabling them to buy the resulting product online.

Since 2018, Korean cosmetics company Amore Pacific and the Kaist Korean Higher Institute of Science and Technology have been partnering on color studies in the field of beauty to understand the unique hues of each individual. It is the fruit of this joint research that is presented at this exhibition, revealing the future of personalized cosmetology. Their technology for diagnosing authentic colors and creating customized make-up products won them the Robotics Innovation Award at CES 2023 in Las Vegas.

Cosmetic Valley promotes cosmetopoeia in overseas territories

Cosmetic Valley promotes cosmetopoeia in overseas territories

The term "cosmetopoeia", coined and registered by the Cosmetic Valley competitiveness cluster in 2010, refers to the inventory of natural resources and their traditional uses for skin care and well-being.

On May 30 and 31, 2024, the second edition of the "Atelier Cosmétopée ultramarine" organized by the Cosmétopée ultramarine network was held in La Réunion.

The aim of this event, aimed at players in the research and business worlds, is to federate and structure a common dynamic, and to stimulate initiatives to explore, develop and preserve biodiversity in the Domesian context around cosmetopoeia.

Organized by CIRAD in partnership with the Cosmetic Valley and Qualitropic - the Outermers bioeconomy competitiveness clusters, and supported by the French Overseas Departments and Territories Ministry, this "Ultramarine Cosmetopoeia Workshop" brought together experts, researchers and companies from the overseas cosmetics sector to discuss the latest advances, innovations and challenges linked to cosmetopoeia in overseas territories. 

The aim of the "Cosmétopée ultramarine" network is to promote knowledge of plants and their traditional uses for cosmetic purposes, and to encourage exchanges between French overseas territories. Its aim is to pool initiatives and network players to support the development of cosmetics industries in the French overseas territories. The network brings together socio-economic, institutional, educational, research and innovation players, all keen to highlight and protect the exceptional biodiversity of the French overseas territories.

G.pivaudran invests in a new automatic anodizing line

Automatic anodizing line -g.pivaudran

Driven by business growth, g.pivaudran, based in Souillac in the Lot region of France, is building a new, state-of-the-art automatic anodizing line. 

Specializing in the manufacture of aluminum parts for the global perfume, cosmetics and spirits markets, the company will double its current surface treatment capacity, while reducing its consumption of water, energy and chemicals by a third. The continuation of a CSR approach in line with its strategy and that of its customers.

Major work has been underway for the past year: g.pivaudran has invested 7.5 million euros in this new anodizing line, which will be equipped with 80 3,000-liter tanks. This is the biggest investment since the company was founded.

This investment is in line with ever-increasing customer demands, which are driving g.pivaudran to upgrade its resources to the highest technical standards, accompanied by specific options.

"With this new anodizing line and its ultra-modern facilities, we want to continue to serve our customers, but also to conquer new markets".says Marc Pivaudran, President of g.pivaudran.

g.pivaudran, which achieved sales of €37 million in 2023, is one of the leading local employers. As part of this investment, the company plans to hire around fifty employees over the next three years.

Photo: The future automatic anodizing line © g.pivaudran

LMR Naturals celebrates its 40th anniversary and pays tribute to its founder

Monique Rémy - LMR Naturals - IFF

IFF celebrated the 40th anniversary of LMR Naturals, and the legacy of its founder Monique Remy, at the Simppar trade show held in Grasse on May 28 and 29, 2024. 

"For four decades, LMR has pioneered the creation of natural fragrance ingredients that harness the beauty and quality of nature.comments Bertrand de Préville, Managing Director of LMR. We have always remained true to the values of sustainability, respect and innovation instilled by our founder, Monique Remy. For example, we achieved the fragrance industry's first-ever third-party certification of a natural supply chain in 2014, after launching the first collection of recycled fragrance ingredients in 2013. These are just two of many significant achievements. Today, as demand for natural ingredients skyrockets, LMR Naturals is well positioned to serve a market driven by a consumer desire for quality and differentiation, as well as a commitment to sustainable choices."

Heritage and international innovation 

As part of IFF's Scent business unit, LMR Naturals - acquired by IFF in 2000 - produces a wide range of ingredients for the perfumery, personal care and home care markets. With access to IFF's international sourcing and production network, LMR Naturals' activities have grown, while remaining firmly committed to sustainability and respect for stakeholders throughout its value chain. 

"Even at a time when the industry was moving away from pure natural products, LMR defended the power and beauty of nature.continues Bertrand de Préville. With Monique's determination, ambition and expertise, IFF has created a unique company, which we are proud to present "at home" in Grasse (...). We look forward to further discussions with our partners about the unique properties of our ingredients, and the comprehensive support and creativity we can offer to customers seeking to develop their next innovations. Monique remains an inspiration to us all (...)."

A book was published to mark the occasion: L'art du naturel (Nez Editions, 2024).

Global Bioenergies: completion of preliminary design phase for new plant

Global Bioenergies (c) YZ

Global Bioenergies is building a plant to produce its Isonaturane 12 and 16 products, biobased alternatives to petroleum-based isododecane and isohexadecane.

The new plant, recently scaled down to 2,500 tonnes of isobutene derivatives per year (from the previously announced 10,000 t/year), will focus on the most profitable markets: make-up and prestige skincare products.

Global Bioenergies is pleased to announce that it has successfully completed the preliminary design phase of this project for a plant dedicated to the cosmetics market, scheduled to come on stream in mid-2027.

"Two engineering firms were commissioned, the first to handle the biological side of the project, and the second the part dedicated to green chemistry. Their respective expertise gives us a very good vision of the plant's plans. In the short term, we're looking ahead to the next stage, the detailed design phase.says Roland Desvignes, Industrial Director of Global Bioenergies.

At the same time, process validation tests under conditions mimicking those of the future plant, carried out with fermentation specialist ARD at Global Bioenergies' Pomacle-Bazancourt (51) facility, have been successfully completed, according to Global Bioenergies.

"The success of these tests confirms the robustness of our process. They consolidate our business plan and the strong profitability we are projecting for the plant".explains Frédéric Ollivier, Technical Director of Global Bioenergies.

In addition to cosmetics, the plant will also serve to kick-start the market for sustainable aviation fuels (SAF).

Photo: (c) YZ

AI and augmented reality for beauty applications

Perfect Corp.

Perfect Corp. provider of Beauty and Fashion Tech technologies in artificial intelligence (AI) and augmented reality (AR), and developer of "Beautiful AI" solutions, presented new innovations at the Viva Tech trade show held in Paris from May 22 to 25, 2024.

A set of AI assistants

PerfectGPT, is an offer that includes two AI assistants.

BeautyGPT, a proprietary-trained AI makeup assistant, uses advanced Large Language Model (LLM) technology. Its key features include natural conversation, virtual make-up trials, make-up recommendations based on facial attributes, foundation suggestions tailored to skin tone, interactive make-up tutorials and personalized product/SKU recommendations.

SkincareGPT, meanwhile, has been designed specifically for skincare, promising to deliver a personalized, interactive consumer experience through the power of AI. This assistant offers a range of tools such as a natural conversation to address specific skin concerns, new high-definition skin scan technology and AI skin simulations enabling users to visualize expected results on their own face through AR. 

Both solutions will be officially launched in the coming months.

Virtual make-up trials thanks to AI

The principle: extract the look, in terms of make-up, from any reference image and transfer it to the user's facial photo using augmented reality technology. "Our pioneering AI algorithm accurately detects makeup shades, textures, patterns and styles and transcribes them into a virtual look that users can instantly try on in AR. What's more, the AI solution determines the colors of the looks and matches them with real cosmetics products to recommend specific brand products in a personalized way," explains Perfect Corp.

Multi-zone skin analysis in HD

HD Skin Analysis, Perfect Corp.'s AI-based skin analysis solution, offers high-definition (HD) skin scans to reveal visual details, with an even more powerful update. A multi-zone analysis now offers the ability to zoom in on specific areas of the skin. According to Perfect Corp, this new version enables brands to offer even more personalized product recommendations, tailored to the specific skin characteristics of their customers.

Virtual fitting of several jewels in real time

Perfect Corp.'s high-end virtual jewelry and watch fittings are based on hyper-realistic renderings, with the ability to offer multiple pieces at the same time, and stable, precise tracking thanks to AgileHand technology. Stacking features enable users to try on several products simultaneously. Physically Based Rendering (PBR) enables realistic reflections of light and materials; with virtual watch trials that even display the time. 

Expanscience: new plant inaugurated in Peru  

Expanscience Peru

On Tuesday June 4, Expanscience inaugurated its second plant for processing plant-based raw materials in Peru. This new site will enable the company to reinforce its "responsible plant sourcing" approach.

Laboratoires Expanscience has been present in South America for over 20 years. The company, which specializes in dermocosmetics, rheumatology, dermatology and the marketing of active cosmetics, has strengthened its presence in Peru, notably with the acquisition of Deshidratados Tropicales in 2016.

Based in Lima for over 30 years, Deshidratados Tropicales processes plant raw materials for pharmaceutical and cosmetic uses. Under the management of Sébastien Debrock since its takeover, the company employs 55 people and maintains partnerships with over 500 local producers.

Deshidratados Tropicales has reached a new milestone with the inauguration of its second production site in the country, dedicated primarily to the production of avocado oil.

As a raw material, avocado is used in seven cosmetic active ingredients produced by Expanscience, as well as in Piasclédine300, a drug for the treatment of osteoarthritis, the company's flagship product, and in several dermocosmetic products from the Mustela brand.

Virtuous production

In Peru, Expanscience is currently carrying out a life cycle assessment (LCA) of avocado cultivation in partnership with the Catholic University of Lima, with a view to continuous improvement and impact reduction.

Thanks to an optimized and modernized production flow, the new Peruvian plant has already enabled a significant reduction in the gas consumption required for avocado drying, while improving working conditions for employees, according to Expanscience.

Deshidratados Tropicales promotes the purchase of avocados from sorting deviations, ensuring a source of income for small producers while combating waste. The whole avocado is recycled via upcycling.

One of Expanscience's priorities is "responsible plant sourcing", an approach initiated over 15 years ago, for its supply chains in France and abroad. The company relies on the best practices established by the UEBT (Union for Ethical BioTrade), of which it has been a member since 2011, as well as compliance with international agreements on access to natural resources and human rights.

"We are proud to inaugurate this plant, which demonstrates our determination to master our value chain and contribute to more sustainable development, both economically and environmentally", comments Jean-Paul Berthomé, Chairman of Expanscience.

" We cultivate close relationships and win-win partnerships with local producers. This commitment enables us to reduce our impact while stimulating local economic development, says Sébastien Debrock, General Manager of Deshidratados Tropicales.

Photo: ©APU Productions

Lipoid Kosmetik launches new products based on Herbasol plant water

Herbasol_Plant-Water

Lipoid Kosmetik, a leading manufacturer of high-quality botanical extracts, active ingredients and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industry, introduces Herbasol Plant Water, a versatile range of plant waters optimized for cosmetic use. 

According to Lipoid Kosmetik, this product line embodies the power of plant ingredients (100 natural %, high proportion of plant components, short Inci, Lactobacillus ferment used for natural preservation), and combines this with a transparent, odorless appearance that is easy to incorporate into a variety of cosmetic formulations. 

Herbasol Plant Water products meet the demands of natural, clean and pure beauty concepts, as well as a feeling of freshness and hydration. Fermentation metabolites also enable fermented and postbiotic skin care claims. 

Produced by steam distillation, a process that extracts water-soluble compounds from plant matter to produce a condensed liquid containing its pure essence, plant waters are associated with deep hydration, pure, beneficial ingredients and the idea of naturally radiant, revitalized skin. These hydrolats evoke natural, refreshing and nourishing images. 

Cartier perfume bases benefit from TNT Group know-how 

site-industries-cosmetiques A gold perfume bottle and matching round container are set against a ribbed gold base. The bottle, which resembles a Brouillon auto in its elegance, has a cylindrical shape with a smooth finish, while the container prominently displays the brand name "Cartier" in the center of its lid.

Cartier has imagined a new ritual for the body with its olfactory-neutral Bases à parfumer, which can be adapted to the fragrances that each person adds. The range includes an oil (Huile pure) and a cream (Crème pure), as well as alcohol-free concentrated fragrances.

For its original ritual, Cartier entrusted TNT Group with the design and manufacture of the cap adorning the Huile pure bottle.

Manufactured in Europe, this cap is composed of a gold-galvanized zamak outer part assembled with a PP insert by means of bouterollage. According to the manufacturer, the semi-automated and manual production and finishing process is particularly meticulous, offering a silky touch, a pleasant opening and a color perfectly consistent with that of all the line's packaging. 

In addition to bringing Cartier's creation to life, TNT Group, which specializes in the design, development and manufacture of high-quality metal parts, was able to implement precision engineering to produce a made-in-Europe product that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing.

Photo: © Cartier

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