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Advanced real-time liquid monitoring technology

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Collo Analyzer


Finnish deeptech company ColloidTek (Collo) has developed Collo Analyzer, an innovative real-time quality control system for industrial liquid processes. 

Unlike traditional laboratory analysis methods, Collo Analyzer enables instant on-site analysis of liquid quality.

"Collo creates a "liquid fingerprint" of the liquid being analyzed based on its dielectric properties. Each liquid fingerprint is unique, enabling Collo to detect not only individual products, but also minute variations in the analyzed liquid. Thanks to continuous analysis and instantaneous results, Collo can gauge the quality of the liquid at any time".explains Matti Järveläinen, CEO of Collo. 

All it takes is two seconds. The measurement is taken manually on site by dipping the detector into the product, directly on the production line. There's no need to send samples elsewhere; results are available instantly. This is thanks to the EMF (ElectroMagnetic Field) technology and advanced algorithms on which Collo's solution is based. 

"The fingerprint of a liquid is compared with the criteria required by the customer. If anything differs from these criteria, the customer knows immediately and can take appropriate action. This solution reduces the risk of dangerous errors and poor-quality batches, explains Matti Järveläinen. Our ultimate goal is to provide companies with a cost-effective tool capable of enabling them to maintain rigorous quality control over their liquid transformation processes."

Simplified quality control 

Most systems currently available can only analyze liquids with specific viscosity, transparency or other properties. This often means having different analysis systems and detectors at each test point. A complex system with multiple detectors, which is difficult to use and yet does not guarantee effective quality control, becomes necessary. 

Collo Analyzer can be used with thick, transparent or non-conductive liquids. A single sensor is all it takes to measure the quality of all the liquids present in the transformation process.

According to Collo, this solution is able to detect multiple risks or deviations simultaneously. It streamlines complex quality control processes, replacing other tests and covering aspects of safety and quality ignored by other systems. This technology not only speeds up the quality control process, but also enables manufacturers to take immediate corrective action when deviations are detected. This reduces the risk of costly recalls, and enables manufacturers to ensure that every batch of product meets the most stringent quality and safety standards.

Collo was founded in 2017 after extensive scientific research into electromagnetic field measurement technology at the University of Tampere, Finland.

[podcast] Paris Packaging Week 2024: the lights are green

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editocom
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site-industries-cosmetiques Crowded Paris Packaging Week.

In this episode, Josh Brooks, co-director of the show, answers our questions. He talks about the conference program, the awards, the bridges between shows and the central theme of CSR. You wanted to eat a beef steak at the show? No way! Red meat will be banned.

And in 2024, the Olympic Games will also be on the agenda...

Eco-socio-designed fragrances with the Flor-Index tool

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The editorial staff
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Flor-Index TechnicoFlor

Committed to a CSR approach for over fifteen years, TechnicoFlor, a French, family-owned and independent perfume composition house specializing in the creation of fragrances for the biggest names in perfumery, cosmetics and hygiene, has created Flor-Index, a tool for assessing the environmental and societal impact of perfume formulas at every stage of their development cycle. This tool, recently audited by Afnor Certification, now offers brands the opportunity to propose eco-socio-designed fragrances. Interview with Maxime Gransart, Deputy Managing Director of TechnicoFlor.

Why develop Flor-Index? What's in it for brands?

At TechnicoFlor, we've been genuinely committed to CSR for some fifteen years now. At the same time, we're seeing a real demand from our customers (perfume and cosmetics brands) for transparency in the composition of their formulas. Consumer expectations are also evolving. They no longer want to compromise between responsibility, creativity and quality. It's really important to be able to provide them with concrete, quantitative information about what they're buying. With this in mind, we have created Flor-Index, an innovative tool that enables our perfumers to design eco-socio-designed fragrances and encourages our suppliers to provide us with more data on their raw materials. The perfume industry of tomorrow, if it is to continue to exist, must move towards greater transparency and eco-responsibility! Perfume is no longer natural, but responsible.

What makes Flor-Index innovative?

Flor-Index is the only tool to date capable of measuring the environmental and societal impact of fragrance formulas at every stage of their development cycle, and the only tool whose relevance, transparency and robustness have been audited by Afnor Certification - a world first! With Flor-Index, it's the first time that brands can lay claim to the eco-socio-design of their fragrance formulas. 

Which indicators are taken into account in the measurement process?

From the sourcing of raw materials, through production and transport, to the perfume's end-of-life, the tool analyzes 38 indicators to evaluate eight criteria: the weight of responsible raw materials, the weight of fair-trade raw materials, the content of unnecessary solvents, the energy required for production, the impact of transport, the biodegradability of a formula and the measurement of its toxicity on the environment and health. It's the most complex and robust tool in the industry today. After weighting these elements, the tool assigns the fragrance a score from A to E, working on the same principle as the nutri-score or ecoscore known to the general public. TechnicoFlor's regulatory department then issues a certificate indicating the formula's eco-socio-design rating. An A or B grade indicates that the perfume formula is eco-socio-designed. This is an evolving tool, designed to adapt to changes in regulations and new data on raw materials.

How does the assessment work in practice?

The weight of responsible raw materials is assessed according to several criteria: respect for biodiversity, the transformation process (green chemistry or not) and the type of production (fair trade or not). Thanks to these elements, we can quantify each responsible raw material used. Unnecessary solvent content is a historically taboo subject in the industry (as it is used to reduce the cost of formulas), and we aim to lift the veil by analyzing the weight of this solvent in a formula in complete transparency. To measure the toxicity of a product on the environment, we use criteria established by European regulations. Finally, the energy required for production is linked, for example, to the number of raw materials used in the composition (short or long formula). In 2021, TechnicoFlor will be inaugurating an eco-designed plant in Allauch (13), which is the most automated in its sector and uses very little energy thanks to its gravity-fed weighing system. Our goal is to be 80 % energy self-sufficient within two years.

From tools to eco-socio-designed fragrances, how do you make the leap?

Since the tool was created, all the collections we pro-actively develop, especially for trade shows, are eco-socio-designed. The idea is to show that eco-socio-designed perfumery can be highly creative and sensorial. Our latest collection "Our Daily Sustainable Beauty Routine presented at In-Cosmetics Asia, illustrates this "new" perfumery through a variety of applications (eaux de toilette, shower gels, hand soaps, multi-purpose cleansers and home fragrances). The event also provided an opportunity to present Flor-Index at a conference dedicated to industry professionals; a tool that was very well received by the profession.

Pure Trade dresses Jean-Paul Gaultier's La Belle Fleur Terrible 

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The editorial staff
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PURE TRADE - JEAN PAUL GAUTHIER - La Belle Fleur Terrible

The bottle of Jean-Paul Gaultier's La Belle Fleur Terrible features embroidery designed in two layers and four parts, created by Pure Trade to reveal a new facet of its expertise.

Pure Trade has succeeded in sewing the different parts of the embroidery together, with consistent orientation for homogeneous positioning.

The company had already produced secondary packaging for the Jean-Paul Gaultier brand, including metal boxes for certain collector's editions.

According to the company, the embroidery on the bottle of La Belle Fleur Terrible highlights its ability to facilitate the development process of brands by providing them with complementary and integrative solutions, from a full-service perspective.

Expanscience announces an organic version of one of its anti-aging active ingredients

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The editorial staff
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Lupin

"At Expanscience, our environmental commitment is at the heart of our approach. With CO₂llageneer Bio, we combine innovation, naturalness and sustainability to offer our consumers an increasingly responsible beauty solution that respects the skin and our planet", says Armelle Le Peniec, Director of Cosmetic Active Ingredients at Laboratoires Expanscience. 

CO₂llageneer Bio represents an active ingredient combining naturalness and efficacy, meeting the expectations of consumers looking for certified organic and environmentally-friendly products. 

An active ingredient made in France, certified organic and upcycled 

A member of the UEBT (Union for Ethical Biotrade) since 2011, Expanscience is committed to continuous improvement. Relocating our sourcing and revising the extraction process for one of our flagship active ingredients will enable us to meet the expectations of consumers who are concerned about the origin and impact of cosmetic products. 

CO₂llageneer Bio is thus an organic version certified to 95.4 % by Ecocert Greenlife according to the COllageneer Cosmos standard. This new active ingredient is obtained by a CO2 supercritical. 

It is based on a concentration of lupeol, extracted from French sweet white lupin seeds, sourced in Western France. This active molecule is then combined with organic oleic sunflower oil, sourced in France, offering a 100 % made in France active ingredient, in line with the expectations of local, more responsible consumption. 

Derived from a co-product of the agri-food industry, the asset is also part of an upcycling and zero-waste approach.

Unchanged efficiency

Specifications remain identical, offering continuity in the product's benefits. According to Expanscience, CO₂llageneer Bio maintains its proven efficacy.

Testing in vitro have been carried out. They demonstrate the effects of the active ingredient as a well-ageing agent, stimulating collagen synthesis to improve skin elasticity, reshape and firm areas prone to sagging. The active ingredient stimulates the production of high-quality collagen by activating the chaperone protein HSP47 (Heat Shock Protein), contributing to its optimal organization and structure. 

Alfaparf, Naturopera and Superga Beauty take over the activities of the Eugène Perma group

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The editorial staff
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Eugène Perma

Alfaparf Milano, Naturopera and Superga Beauty have joined forces to bid for the Eugène Perma group, which has gone into receivership. 

The Eugène Perma group (sales €80 million), a specialist in hair coloring and care in supermarkets with its iconic brands (Pétrole Hahn, Eugène Color, Keranove, Nat&Nove Bio, Biorène, Laurence Dumont, Loua), had been experiencing difficulties for several years in the face of the health crisis, inflation and competition from international giants. The group has been in receivership since August 1, 2023.

Alfaparf Milano, an Italian group which distributes hairdressing and beauty products in over 120 countries via some twenty subsidiaries, is adding brands from the hairdressing circuit (Carmen, Solaris, etc.) to its portfolio.

A French SME with 100 employees and estimated sales of €40 million in 2023, Naturopera is taking over Eugène Perma's GMS activities, with brands such as Pétrole Hahn, Eugène Color, Keranove, Nat&Nove Bio and Biorène. Known for its baby and feminine hygiene brands, "Naturopera is writing an exciting new chapter in its history. We are extremely proud to welcome Eugène Perma's emblematic brands. This acquisition marks a major strategic step in our commitment to innovation and quality, reinforcing our position as the leader in "made in France" fragrance hygiene. We are proud to carry on this heritage, combining sustainability and excellence to offer our consumers an unrivalled experience in the world of hygiene, beauty and hair care", say Geoffroy Blondel de Joigny and Kilian O'Neill, founders of Naturopera. 

After opening its ecological baby diaper factory in Hauts-de-France just over a year ago, Naturopera, founded in 2013, was able to count on the support of financial partners (BPIFrance, Caisse d'Epargne, Société Générale) who saw the growth potential of such a takeover. With "PME+" and "BioEd" (Bio Entreprise durable) CSR certification, the young company intends to give priority to natural, eco-designed ingredients. It specifies that transparency towards consumers will be ensured by reworked product compositions. The company will also be supporting local development by promoting "Made in France", working with over 80 % French suppliers and service providers.

Superga Beauty is taking over Eugène Perma's Parchimy plant near Reims. This site includes 12 manufacturing tanks, 10 packaging lines and an in-house laboratory to carry out all process controls, and benefits from an Atex-secured platform. The French "beauty supplier" thus acquires a new tool and integrates expertise in hair care and coloring products to its perfumery and skincare know-how. 

In total, the consortium will maintain the jobs of 213 employees, i.e. 90 % of the current workforce. In this respect, it was the best bidder compared with the other bidders.

"We are three experts in our circuits, three family-run businesses that guarantee continuity and are aligned with the values of the Eugène Perùma Group. We are aware that a great deal of work needs to be done in all three businesses to restore the group's impetus and dynamism. For us, the fact that we are working as a trio is a guarantee of resources and success: each business line is entrusted to dedicated experts who are committed to investing fully in the continuation and maintenance of each business line.explains Leslie Bréau Meniger, President of Superga Beauty.

As part of this takeover, Superga Beauty has signed a five-year exclusive production agreement with Naturopera and Alfaparf Milano. Products for the various Eugène Perma brands will continue to be manufactured in France at the Parchimy site, which will become Beauty Champagne Ardenne (BCA). 

In addition to the hair care products traditionally manufactured and packaged in Reims, the group plans to open up the business to subcontracting, particularly in the care sector. The site has the capacity to produce large batches, in excess of ten tons. The stated objective is to add 10 million parts to the plant within the next two years. 

"The Superga Beauty group has an ambitious project, and we are going to demonstrate, as with our previous projects, our strength as well as our willingness to transform a brand factory into a subcontracting plant, while preserving French know-how in cosmetics. This takeover will enable us to immediately increase our production capacity for skincare and hygiene products, and to develop our expertise in hair coloring and hair care.stresses Leslie Bréau Meniger. I have every confidence in the success of this project. We demonstrated our commercial strength with the Cosmeurop takeover project. I believe in subcontracting and its development, and in our customers' desire to develop French manufacturing."

Gattefossé wins an award at in-cosmetics Asia

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The editorial staff
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Gattefossé - In cosmetics Asia

"We're delighted that our product has been so well received by Asian customers, proving that products for sensitive skin are not just fashionable, but a real need for consumers. Environmental changes and parents' desire to offer their children soothing products are prompting formulators to seek out innovative, multi-functional ingredients. Emulium Dermolea MB enables the development of a wide range of cosmetic applications suitable for all skin types and climates "said Angelito Delos Reyes, Managing Director of the Gattefossé Asia Pacific subsidiary.

Launched in April 2023 at in-cosmetics global, Emulium Dermolea MB was awarded a gold medal at in-cosmetics Asia in the functional ingredient category of the innovation zone, after winning best functional ingredient at in-cosmetics Korea, and silver at in-cosmetics Latin America.

Emulium Dermolea MB is an O/W emulsifier of plant origin developed by Gattefossé, a specialist in natural cosmetic ingredients for the beauty and health industries.

According to Gattefossé, Emulium Dermolea MB reduces skin stress and provides lasting relief thanks to its unique lipidic composition rich in sterols and triterpenes. Highly moisturizing and protective, it reinforces the skin's barrier function. Used at a rate of 4 %, this multifunctional ingredient is suitable for all skin types and climates.

To create Emulium Dermolea MB, Gattefossé turned to candelilla wax, rice bran wax and jojoba wax, selected for their complementary properties and functionalized with polyglycerol-3.

Dsm-firmenich unveils a fragrance inspired by the Pantone color of the year, Peach Fuzz

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The editorial staff
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Pantone 13-1023 Peach Fuzz

Dsm-firmenich, an innovator in the fields of nutrition, health and beauty, has once again teamed up with Pantone, the global authority on communication and inspiration through color, to create an aroma (Peach+) and a fragrance (Peach Fuzz Eau de Parfum, EDP) - accompanied by its candle, inspired by Pantone's color of the year 2024, Pantone 13-1023 Peach Fuzz. 

Peach Fuzz EDP scored AAA on the EcoScent Compass, dsm-firmenich's exclusive tool for measuring fragrance sustainability.

"Peach Fuzz Eau de Parfum is a velvety-smooth peach fragrance whose encompassing spirit enriches mind, body and soul. To convey an authentic sense of tenderness, it harnesses the power of EmotiON, our innovative program that supports the creation of fragrances with scientifically validated emotional, psychological and physical benefits."says dsm-firmenich. 

"Pantone's Color of the Year is always a great source of inspiration, with its fresh and insightful look at current social trends, complementing our consumer and market knowledge. This partnership gives us the opportunity and challenge to connect our creativity, science and innovation capabilities to what's happening in the world and translate it into the universal language of fragrance, to inspire customers and consumers alike."says Matteo Magnani, Chief Consumer & Innovation Officer, Perfumery & Beauty, at dsm-firmenich. 

Alexandra Monet, based in New York, and Steve Guo, based in China, worked together to create Peach Fuzz EDP.  "We loved the idea of creating a fragrance that authentically captures the texture and quality of a peach, one that can have universal resonance."explains Alexandra Monet. "We wanted to express a sense of skin and notions of intimacy, security and comfort. We were inspired to create a tactile peach fragrance with a skin feel."adds Steve Guo.

Unveiled during an immersive, multi-sensory experience at Pantone's launch party in New York, Peach Fuzz EDP features, according to dsm-firmenich, soft, playful top notes of sparkling bergamot and osmanthus, a heart composed of notes of iris and orange blossom, and a cocoon base with Haiti vetiver and brilliant amber.

A range of lipsticks certified organic and 100 % of natural origin

By
The editorial staff
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Lipstick - Comme Avant

The young Comme Avant brand has carved out a place for itself in the solid cosmetics market. In keeping with its approach - handcrafted products with a short composition - it has just launched the first reference of its future make-up range: a range of organic lipsticks, handmade in its workshop near Marseille.

It took the SME a year of R&D to develop these lipsticks, now available in four colors: brick, brown, plum and amber orange. 

The originality of this range: a short composition and products of natural origin. Exit shark liver oil (squalene), beeswax, lanolin, titanium dioxide and petroleum-derived ingredients. Murumuru butter, candelilla wax, mineral pigment, castor oil, plant-based film-forming agent...: only five ingredients are used in the composition of Comme Avant lipsticks, with an original emollient present in the pigment to ensure its proper dispersion.

For its lipsticks, the brand has also opted for refillable kraft packaging to reduce waste in the bathroom.

With its twelve types of solid cosmetics (soaps, shampoos, toothpastes, deodorants, sun creams, etc.) and other organic products (natural household products and textiles), this family-run SME is recording strong growth. And the company has no shortage of projects. To develop its make-up range, a solid mascara is currently being studied. "As Avant is reinventing a product that our grandmothers used, it will be developed with respect for people and the planet.says company co-founder Sophie Lauret. See you in 2024 to discover this new product!

Verpack receives an EcoVadis gold medal for its PLV 37 site

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The editorial staff
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Verpack

The Verpack Group is pursuing its policy of continuous improvement across all its entities. PLV 37, the latest site to join the group, has been awarded its very first EcoVadis medal.

Based near Tours, the site joins the club of 5 % top-rated companies in its category worldwide, with an overall score of 74 out of 100. 

site-industries-cosmetiques Ecodias has been awarded a Gold Sustainability rating by EcoVadis.

This gold medal rewards PLV 37 for the initiatives it has undertaken since its recent integration into the Group, and its dynamic approach to CSR. Among the four items examined, ethics and responsible purchasing come out on top.

Digital printing, silk-screening, laminating, die-cutting, gilding, folding and gluing... With some twenty employees, PLV 37 is distinguished by its multi-faceted expertise. With this new site, Verpack completes its range of services covering the entire graphics chain, as well as the development of short-run cases and boxes.

The Verparck Group's entities are committed to a shared social and environmental responsibility dynamic. Each site has its own identity, history, know-how, and human and technological maturity, and each pursues its own approach to excellence at its own pace, drawing on the experience and cohesion of the group as a whole.

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