Givaudan Active Beauty has created PrimalHyal 50 Life: a low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, "the most sustainable in the Givaudan portfolio". depending on the company.
The fruit of several years' research, PrimalHyal 50 Life was unveiled at the Cosmet'agora trade show in Paris on January 16 and 17, 2024. Givaudan Active Beauty researchers have been studying the bio-fermentation process for over 30 years, with a bold ambition: to strengthen the sustainability criteria of the hyaluronic acid molecule, as well as those of its production.
Located in Champagne, Givaudan Active Beauty's center of excellence draws on its knowledge of white biotechnology to manufacture active cosmetic ingredients, a method that involves the precise fermentation of micro-organisms, exploiting mainly local carbon sources such as wheat or beet sugar, thus adopting a circular economy model in the context of a bio-refinery.
Thus, by leveraging strain engineering and precision fermentation, Givaudan Active Beauty's production methods are now more environmentally friendly, achieving an exceptional -91% reduction in environmental impact according to Givaudan Active Beauty.
The company claims that PrimalHyal 50 Life includes significant improvements across various environmental parameters, as demonstrated by a lifecycle analysis boasting -92 % greenhouse gas emissions, -95 % water acidification and eutrophication, -90 % non-renewable energy use and -75 % water consumption*.
"Thanks to the outstanding work of our strain engineering scientists, we have completely reinvented the method of producing low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid. By directly obtaining the desired molecular weight during fermentation, we have considerably reduced our overall footprint. This is a major breakthrough for the beauty industry as a whole".says Romain Reynaud, Research and Development Director at Givaudan Active Beauty.
PrimalHyal 50 Life offers several skincare benefits according to Givaudan Active Beauty, including: deep skin penetration, up to 120 μm; stimulation of skin junction firmness; prevention of insensible water loss, to boost skin hydration for up to 72 hours after application; a reduction in skin roughness of -66% in one month; and perceptible benefits in terms of skin texture, firmness and hydration, noted by volunteers.
* Based on a cradle-to-gate LCA carried out in 2023 by an external firm on the basis of data supplied by Givaudan.
