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Thursday, September 29, 2022
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Gattefossé launches new E/H emulsionant to global in-cosmetics

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To meet growing consumer demand for natural sunscreen and makeup products, Gattefossé has accepted a challenge and will present a new ingredient at in-cosmetics global Paris.
Gattefossé relied on its solid expertise in lipid chemistry to develop Emulium Illustro, an innovative water-in-oil (W / O) emulsifier of natural origin, designed mainly for formulas containing pigments. Resulting from a patented technology based on polyglycerol esters, Emulium® Illustro meets consumer expectations and formulators' requirements in terms of performance and flexibility.

Naturalness without compromise

Emulium Illustro has demonstrated superior performance and stability compared to other W / O emulsifiers on the market.
Flexible, easy to formulate and can be used cold, this new ingredient provides fluid textures that are comfortable on the skin and provide a soft touch and a feeling of hydration.
Particularly interesting in make-up and sunscreen formulations, Emulium Illustro can also be used to formulate original textures for skin care.

“We worked for six years to find a lipid composition that provides a concrete solution to the problems associated with the formulation of natural W / O emulsions. We have selected three raw materials which have undergone esterification followed by interesterification. The association of a grade of polyglycerol-6 containing little free glycerol with 12-hydroxystearic and ricinoleic acids made it possible to obtain a flexible structure capable of stabilizing without a co-emulsifier. The unsaturated chain brings fluidity to the emulsion and gives textures which are very easy to spread. »Maxime Nollet, engineer specializing in lipid chemistry at Gattefossé.

“Guided by makeup formulation experts, we have placed pigments at the heart of research since day one. The emulsions have been built around the pigments, taking into account the different types of coating as well as the uncoated ingredients. We challenged Emulium Illustro through a battery of tests in order to explore it from all angles: compatibility with cosmetic ingredients, stability, sensoriality and clinical evaluation. We have also developed several formulas to demonstrate its interest in makeup, sun care and skin care. Our natural foundation has been evaluated by a panel of consumers accustomed to using foundations with silicones. The volunteers were thrilled by the performance of the product but also by the appearance of their bare skin after use. This is the biggest reward we could have expected. »Malorie Duvent, formulation engineer at Gattefossé.

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