IES Ingredients, distributor of raw materials for the cosmetics, perfume and food flavorings industries, confirms its commitment to CSR with the EcoVadis 2023 assessment.
With the award of the Platinum Medal for the second year running, the company is rated as 1% of the best-performing companies in its field in terms of corporate social responsibility.
With EcoVadis' criteria increasingly refined, the company is able to maintain its commitments while striving to make progress in environmental, social and ethical areas.
" I would like to thank the entire IES Ingredients team and our support services for this performance. I'm proud of their involvement and consistency in this process. "Noël Poinsignon, Executive Vice President.
CSR has been an integral part of the company for many years. As a distributor, it plays a key role in the supply process, involving all stakeholders, including employees, customers and partners. IES Ingredients intends to extend this commitment throughout its value chain, identifying the major economic, environmental and social challenges of the future and devising solutions to meet them. A signatory of the United Nations Global Compact since May 10, 2019, the company renews its involvement and publishes its CSR report annually.
At IES Ingredients, our CSR vision is based on simple actions to ". doing a little better for our planet every day than we did yesterday ".
IES Ingredients, EcoVadis Platinum for the 2nd consecutive year
L'Oréal acquires Aesop for €2.3 billion
L'Oréal announced that it has signed an agreement with Natura &Co to acquire Aēsop, the Australian luxury cosmetics brand. The deal values Aēsop at $2.525 billion (almost €2.3 billion) in enterprise value. This is a record acquisition for the French group, which has big ambitions and promises the brand the means to grow.
Founded in 1987, Aēsop is globally recognized for its skin, hair and body products. With its amber packaging, sustainable vegan formulas, natural ingredients, and personalized customer service, Aēsop has become a global brand available in high-end boutiques, beauty spaces, and luxury hotels around the world.
Aēsop is distributed in approximately 400 exclusive outlets in the Americas, Europe, Australia, New Zealand and Asia, with a nascent presence in China where the first store opened in 2022.
The brand had sales of $537 million in 2022 (€490 million).
Nicolas Hieronimus, CEO of L'Oréal groupe, said: "I am very pleased to welcome Aēsop and its teams to the L'Oréal Group. Aēsop embodies avant-garde beauty: not only are its products made with the utmost care and exceptional attention to detail; they are also a superb combination of urban modernity, hedonism and recognized luxury. Aēsop is taking advantage of all of today's ascendant consumer trends, and L'Oréal will help accelerate its enormous growth potential, particularly in China and in travel retail."
Commenting on the acquisition, Cyril Chapuy, President of L'Oréal Luxe, added: "My team and I are thrilled that Aēsop is joining L'Oréal Luxe's portfolio of iconic global brands. Aēsop holds a unique position in the global luxury beauty market thanks to a vision rooted in design, the high efficacy and sensoriality of its products and its customer-focused retail philosophy. We look forward to welcoming Michael O'Keeffe, Aēsop's Chief Executive Officer, and his experienced and passionate teams to continue to develop the brand's remarkable potential together, cultivating its unique character and values. We are confident that Aēsop will join the Division's club of billionaire brands, making a significant contribution to L'Oréal Luxe's growth in the years to come."
Fábio Barbosa, general manager of Natura &Co, said:"The sale of Aēsop marks the beginning of a new development cycle for Natura &Co. With a strengthened financial structure, a clean balance sheet, and strict financial discipline, Natura &Co will be able to focus more on its strategic priorities, including its investment plan in Latin America. We will also be able to continue to focus on strengthening The Body Shop (sold by L'Oréal) and refocusing the Avon International footprint. We are proud of Aēsop's remarkable success and are extremely grateful to all the Aēsop teams who have contributed immensely not only to the success of the brand, but also to making Natura &Co what it is today. We are confident that Aēsop's growth will continue under the L'Oréal umbrella and we wish Aēsop every success in this new chapter for the future."
This acquisition is subject to certain customary regulatory approvals and other customary closing conditions.
Arcade Beauty commits to decarbonation
Aware of the weight of its activity on the environment, Arcade Beauty takes its responsibilities in the fight against climate change, and pursues an ambitious decarbonization plan.
During its participation to the Convention des Entreprises pour le Climat (CEC), Arcade Beauty wrote its 2030 roadmap. This roadmap is based on 2 fundamental questions:
- How to contribute to the beauty and well-being of all, while reducing the waste of samples and cosmetic products?
- How can we offer consumers eco-designed packs that are distributed wisely and then collected after use to be recycled?
A 1.5°C trajectory
Arcade Beauty has recorded its SBTI 1.5°C commitment. Thus, the group is concretizing its decarbonization actions. Its objective is to reduce its CO2 emissions by 3000 tons by the end of the year.
The calculation of the footprint is based on 3 scopes: energy and electricity consumption (scopes 1 and 2), indirect emissions upstream and downstream of the company such as raw materials and packaging, transport... (scope 3).
Major challenges throughout the chain
The work carried out is based on 3 major axes:
- Manage energy (reduction, conversion and optimization)
- Involve partner suppliers in an optimization process (CSR questionnaire integrating EcoVadis, carbon footprint and decarbonization actions)
- Act in a systematic logic of eco-design
Ecodesign in 4 Rs
Arcade Beauty has integrated the 4 R's in its ecodesign strategy:
- Reduce (weight of packs, number of layers, over-packaging...)
- Recycle/Recycled: to date 80 % of the proposed technologies are recyclable or include a share of recycled material
- Renew (gradual replacement of plastic by paper), development of compostable technologies
- Reuse (development of reusable packs & charging solutions)
Some examples in figures
The recyclable paper and monoresin bags allow CO2 savings of 58 % for the paper and 32 % for the monoresin.
Recyclable secondary packaging allows a CO2 saving of 80 % for paper and 74 % for monoresin.
In the Retail product range, recyclable 3Dpouch in PE offers significant environmental benefits (less 19 % of CO2, and on average less 50 % of material weight).
Arcade Beauty is working on the ISCC+ certification of its factories in order to promote the use of plastic from chemical recycling (PE and PP in particular).
BPerfect Cosmetics Launches New Chroma Cover Luminous Foundation Line
Following the phenomenal success of Chroma Cover Matte Foundation's viral collection on TikTok, BPerfect Cosmetics, a leading Irish makeup brand, launches a lightweight foundation with adjustable coverage and a luminous finish.
The new Chroma Cover Luminous line still offers 36 shades covering the full spectrum of skin tones through three sub-shades - Cool, Neutral and Warm. The formula is light on the skin, yet provides buildable coverage with a luminous finish. Enriched with an infusion of hyaluronic acid, vitamin E and rosehip oil, Chroma Cover Luminous Foundation creates a second-skin feel that amplifies skin's radiance for a youthful, healthy look.
Hyaluronic acid helps maintain firmness and retain moisture, which is essential to giving skin a plump look. Vitamin E protects cells from damage with its antioxidant properties, creating a natural barrier that retains skin moisture. The addition of rosehip oil is what makes this makeup-care hybrid a powerful formula, deeply hydrating the skin and stimulating collagen formation with every application.
These skin-optimizing ingredients, combined with highly concentrated pigments, work together to ensure long-lasting wear and a surprisingly radiant result.
Founder Brendan McDowell comments : " It was very important to me to be the first Irish brand to launch a 36-shade foundation range. Our diverse customer base has naturally grown over the last ten years, and I'm delighted that we can offer a shade to suit every skin tone. Glowing, healthy skin has never been more in vogue, so the launch of the Chroma Cover range of luminous foundations is the perfect addition to our portfolio."
Schwan Cosmetics strengthens its Face portfolio with hybrid correctors
Schwan Cosmetics is strengthening its Face portfolio with a focus on skin-image-inspired products with a focus on hybridity. Pure on-the-glow concealer and Pure easy-peasy-glow concealer kick off the new Face line to simplify consumers' daily beauty routine. The Pure Concealer collection was launched globally on March 16, 2023, at Cosmopack Bologna.
Schwan Cosmetics is strengthening its face category with new product concepts. The new line aims to enhance the user's well-being with skin care-color-cosmetic hybrids. These products use the latest performance technologies and clean, natural ingredients known for their versatile capabilities.
According to WGSN's Skinimalism Trends Report, K-Beauty based multi-step beauty routines have been replaced by minimal routines. Driven by conscious consumption and intentionality, the trend has been accelerated by the pandemic. No-makeup days and breakouts caused by overworked skincare routines and stress are on the rise. The pandemic reinforces the new desire for a healthy look, which can be achieved with ultra-shiny, dewy textures and deceptively rosy cheeks.
Today's cosmetic industry facial products come in a wide range of colors to suit all skin tones. Different skin types are also taken into account. But it is rare that both skin types are combined. Yet each skin is unique and has different needs in terms of shade and skincare ingredients. Schwan Cosmetics leverages its unique expertise in custom color formulation and in-depth ingredient knowledge within its large R&D team to enable its customers to approach their niche holistically.
Katrin Hollmann-Raabe, Director of Formula Development at Schwan Cosmetics, says of the new concealer concept: " Pure is the result of over three years of research into concealers that not only provide flawless coverage, but also nourish and protect the delicate skin around the eyes. Our team of experts worked diligently to achieve the perfect balance of the formula, which contains hyaluronic acid and erythritol, a hydrating derivative of fermented sugar. As a result, the skin feels fresh and hydrated. Looking ahead, we are excited to continue exploring the interaction between color and skincare in our future research and development efforts. This new concealer concept is just the beginning of our commitment to creating innovative facial products that seamlessly combine the benefits of skin care ingredients with the power of color cosmetics."
The manufacturer develops solutions that fit into everyday life, whether consumers are on the go or taking time out for wellness. The products are designed to save time and effort by streamlining beauty routines and reflecting a sustainable lifestyle by avoiding waste. With consumers also highly informed and aware of ingredients and their impact on skin and health, all-in-one skincare and makeup hybrids are essential.
Leonardo Luce, Head of the Color & Care Competence Unit at Schwan Cosmetics, emphasizes the proven effectiveness of these products: " Pure Concealers are scientifically proven to deliver exceptional results. Our efficacy study confirmed that over 90 % of volunteers saw a significant reduction in under-eye puffiness and improved skin tightness, smoothness and hydration. In the consumer study, 91 % of them found smoother skin in the crow's feet area. In addition, 100 % of them saw a moisturizing effect on their skin after applying the concealers. We are excited to bring this game-changing concept to market and look forward to our customers experiencing the benefits of Pure" .
For its debut, the new line features the Pure on-the-glow concealer and the Pure easy-peasy-glow concealer.
Pure on-the-glow concealer:
An easy-to-use liquid concealer with a sheer, light-diffusing finish and instant hydration for lazy perfection. Imperfections and dark circles are covered naturally for a "glowy" feel. I'm better". Unlike most liquid concealers, it is formulated with clean ingredients. The unique Tender Touch unit provides a creamy, perfectly blended texture, and the cushion applicator offers a smooth feel.
The Pure "easy-peasy-glow" concealer:
The easy-peasy-glow concealer offers an instant moisturizing effect and can be easily customized in terms of coverage with the familiar dip application. The light, diffused finish and medium coverage give a natural look.
The unique, lightweight formula contains only clean ingredients that provide long-lasting performance and a comfortable feel. The charming applicator features a small cell that serves as a reservoir for the formula, allowing for a wider application without effort. The dipping system is made with up to 42% PCR content. In addition to PURE concealers, the new line will also include more concealers, highlighters, blushers and primers to celebrate the " comfort first "and the " not a size for everyone "care-color-cosmetic hybrids.
"Best-Of" of the Testing & Labin Zone: an in-cosmetics Global and Skinobs webinar
In-cosmetics Global and Skinobs invite you to join the free webinar dedicated to the "Best-Of" of the Testing & Lab Zone, on April 6, 2023 at 3 p.m. [CST].
The evaluation of ingredients, actives and finished products is at the heart of the cosmetics industry's business, at every stage of product development. Subjected to global regulations, influenced by the latest digital practices and new consumer habits, impacted by global environmental responsibility, and inspired by AI, virtual reality and 3D printing technologies, the world of testing is rapidly evolving.
The webinar will address the main aspects of this evolution through a review of the innovations presented in the Testing & Lab area at in-cosmetics Global Barcelona 2023, with contributions from PhD Trials, Miravex, Newtone Technologies, CIDP and Bionos Biotech.
Rissmann takes on the challenge of multi-level embossing for Valentino
Valentino entrusted the production of its e-commerce gift boxes to Rissmann, with the challenge of creating an elaborate 3D decor.
Under the aegis of the Valentino brand, Rissmann used its expertise to recompose the logo from embossed gold studs. The technical feat lies in the multi-level gold hot stamping finish.
The use of uncoated matte paper, printed in deep black, is also noteworthy. The glossy varnish finish enhances the luxurious look of these boxes while protecting them over time. The Valentino logo, gilded in hot foil, marks these exceptional e-commerce boxes.
Gattefossé unveils Emulium Dermolea MB, the shield for sensitive skin
Emulium Dermolea MB, Gattefossé's new plant-derived O/W emulsifier, was officially launched at in-cosmetics global 2023 in Barcelona. Emulium Dermolea MB reduces skin stress and provides long-term soothing thanks to its unique lipidic composition rich in sterols and triterpenes. This new ingredient has been developed using Gattefossé's expertise in wax butter technology, and is composed of candelilla, rice bran and jojoba waxes.
The starting point
Exposed to environmental stresses, the skin's surface lipids are strongly impacted. The skin's barrier function is altered, facilitating the penetration of irritants and increasing insensible water loss (IWL). As a result, skin becomes dry and sensitive, with the appearance of redness and tightness. In addition to discomfort, altered skin barrier function can lead to a burning sensation when applying cosmetic products.
There is a growing need for soft, soothing textures that reduce the skin's sensitivity to aggression and enable the use of skincare and make-up products without reaction or discomfort.
A real ally for sensitive skin
Gattefossé is proud to present Emulium Dermolea MB, its latest O/W emulsifier of natural origin, a real ally for sensitive skin. Composed of plant lipids close to those on the skin's surface, rich in anti-inflammatory triterpenes and pentacyclic sterols, Emulium Dermolea MB forms a light, skin-compatible film, proven to reduce environmental stress on the skin. Highly moisturizing and protective, this ingredient reinforces the skin's barrier function and provides a long-lasting soothing effect.
Emulium Dermolea MB is easy to use and multifunctional, making it possible to formulate a wide range of cosmetic applications suitable for all skin types and climates.
Able to emulsify up to 40% of fatty phase, it can be used to create a wide range of textures, from spray to thick butter. It is suitable for skincare, make-up, suncare, hair and scalp care formulas. It comes in tablet form, making it easy to use.
" Skin sensitivity is a growing problem worldwide. That's why we set out to develop an ingredient that would enable us to formulate textures with proven soothing properties. Once again, Gattefossé's chemists drew on their expertise in functionalizing plant waxes to produce a high-performance O/W emulsifier. Cosmos-approved, suitable for vegan formulations and fully objectified in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo, this new ingredient will meet the current expectations of formulators and consumers alike. We are delighted that Emulium Dermolea MB has been shortlisted for the "best ingredient award" in the innovation zone at in-cosmetics global, and look forward to officially launching this product at the show! "explains Lysiane Teyssier, Product Manager - Textures and Cosmetic Applications at Gattefossé.
DNA & Cosmetics: A new step for the consortium
Two years ago, we announced the formation of a new consortium "DNA & Cosmetics", whose objective is to guarantee the traceability of plant raw materials. As a proof of the cosmetic sector's will to reinforce transparency and security of supplies, a new step was taken at the beginning of March with the signature of a pre-consortium agreement by the historical actors. This new phase is accompanied by a call for applications from companies, cosmetics groups and ingredient suppliers, wishing to join the first cosmetics consortium dedicated to the traceability of natural resources through DNA analysis.
This consortium is built around DNA Gensee, a company specialized in plant bio-technologies founded in 2012. The company has just announced that it has raised €600,000 in funding to support its growth and to meet an irreversible demand for its genetic analyses of plants. With its own DNA analysis technologies and those of its network of highly innovative partners, DNA Gensee offers manufacturers unique tools and a complete solution to meet the major challenges and
current risks :
- demand for traceability and transparency by consumers who increasingly require proof of the origin and quality of products,
- risks linked to fraud, particularly in the supply chains of certain raw materials such as spices, hemp, honey, spirulina, teas, aromatic plants, perfume plants, etc.
- the need to reduce environmental and social impact through more rational and sustainable supply (UN and Convention on Genetic Diversity objectives).
Actors in the cosmetics sector who share the same values of rigor and respect for the consumer and the planet can cooperate and participate in this approach to contribute to the common good and enhance the value of the industry.
The olfactory ambiance, an important component of the French people's daily well-being
6 out of 10 French people have already left a place because they didn't like the smell.
Scentys, the French expert in airborne fragrance diffusion for the past 20 years, unveils the results of a study on the relationship that the French have with the scents that mark their daily lives.
Consciously or unconsciously, scents act on our state of mind. But what impact do home fragrances really have on our daily lives? This is the question that Scentys wanted to answer through this study, conducted last June with BVA.
Odors, an increasingly important element in all places
A very large majority of French people say they are rather sensitive (49 %) or even very sensitive (29 %) to odors of any kind. They therefore attach great importance to the smells in the various places they frequent: at home of course (87 %), but also in a hotel (83 %), a restaurant (78 %) or a store (73 %). 60% of them have even left a place where they did not like the smell.
Home fragrances, a vector of well-being
For the French, home fragrances have a rather positive image: they give them a pleasant (46 %) or relaxing (28 %) feeling. 54 % of respondents have adopted them in their homes; and if half of them try to mask unpleasant odors (kitchen odors, pet odors...), three quarters (76%) do it simply for their well-being.
A habit that now follows them even in their car: 32 % of French people use scent diffusers, always for their pleasure and well-being (77 %).
The French are in favor of diffusing home fragrances in the places they frequent
More and more places that welcome the public are using the diffusion of room fragrances or pleasant smells. This practice is welcomed by the French: nearly half (45 %) consider it a good thing and that this experience is rather pleasant.
"Smells play an extremely important role in our relationship with the world. comments Pierre Loustric, president of Scentys. "An American study has shown that humans retain only 1 % of what they touch, 2 % of what they hear, 5 % of what they see, but 35 % of what they smell. It is not surprising that the diffusion of perfume, in the home or in places where the public is present, has such an impact on our state of mind.
