pink milk thistle flower in bloom in summer morning. Cross processed. Analog instagram filter.
Givaudan Active Beauty strengthens its portfolio of anti-aging products with the launch of Siliphos, the best natural alternative to retinoids. Suitable for delicate skin, Siliphos is extracted by green fractionation from milk thistle fruit, and benefits from Phytosome technology. This new active ingredient outperforms bakuchiol, the plant-based alternative to retinol, while offering benefits that defy retinoid efficacy by reducing wrinkles without side effects.
Natural cosmetic alternatives are increasingly in demand by consumers, including a more natural version of retinol. According to our global CMI1 study, 77 % of consumers in six countries said they would be very interested in a natural version of retinol: they would enjoy the multiple benefits for the skin without worrying about potential side effects, such as redness, dryness and irritation.
Giada Maramaldi, category manager for botanical actives at Active Beauty: " Siliphos is the first natural alternative to retinoids and bakuchiol able to offer aging benefits comparable to retinol. Extracted from the fruit of the Silybum marianum Gaertn plant, it acts directly on collagen production to provide a natural, safe and effective skincare solution for even the most delicate skin."
The anti-aging performance of Siliphos was tested in a clinical study on volunteers with crow's feet and forehead wrinkles. All tests demonstrated that Siliphos significantly outperforms bakuchiol and acts as effectively as retinoids in reducing :
- x2 crow's feet wrinkles
- all facial wrinkles by x2.3
- The number of forehead wrinkles is 21.2 %.
- forehead wrinkle circumference of 17.4 %.
- Redness of 22.9 %.
The marketing concept for Siliphos will be presented at PCHi 2023.
Lipoid Kosmetik is a manufacturer of high-quality botanical extracts, active ingredients and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industry. With a clear vision of our consumers' needs, Lipoid Kosmetik introduces Mountain Tea Pro, the natural, caffeine-free 100 % tea extract for overnight skin regeneration. Evening beauty routines promote relaxation and facilitate a restful, regenerative beauty sleep at night. For this, tea rituals are the ideal starting point, as they form part of a de-stressing and regenerating bedtime self-care routine, especially if they are based on caffeine-free herbal teas such as mountain tea. With Mountain Tea Pro, Lipoid Kosmetik offers a new Cosmos-certified extract, based on an organic and traceable raw material source, with the following benefits for the user:
Caffeine-free beauty sleep support
Tea-inspired protection against oxidative stress
Recovers the skin's antioxidant potential overnight. Mountain Tea Pro is an innovative ingredient for relaxing, tea-infused beauty concepts. With its de-stressing and antioxidant qualities, Mountain Tea Pro is the ideal ingredient for protective and regenerative skin care during the day and night, as well as accompanying consumers in a healthy, restorative beauty sleep routine.
On November 23, 2022, the Natrue label will champion natural and sustainable beauty by launching International Natural Cosmetics Day. This global awareness day will promote the benefits of truly natural cosmetics for both people and the planet. It will be celebrated in over 30 countries with the hashtag #choosetruebeauty.
A non-profit organization, Natrue is the originator of the renowned international certification standard for natural and organic cosmetics, which sets strict criteria for third-party certification of natural and organic beauty products. This label distinguishes truly natural cosmetics from the myriad of "nature-inspired" products on the market. It helps consumers find their way among the "green" products.
So what are the benefits of natural cosmetics for our planet?
"Beauty has become much more than skin care. Using products and brands, especially cosmetics, that don't harm our beautiful planet, is paramount for all of us. Natural and organic cosmetics represent a sustainable option for anyone wishing to protect and promote our natural resources, our oceans, our soils.
Over 1,600 certified raw materials are approved in the Natrue database to help manufacturers develop products that are more sustainable - such as palm oil certified to protect endangered habitats - or have a lower impact on the environment: use of biodegradable agents, absence of microplastics for example. All products bearing the Natrue label are focused on maximizing the use of renewable ingredients such as vegetable oils, rather than using ingredients derived from fossil fuels", explains Mark Smith, Managing Director of the Natrue association.
What are the characteristics of Natrue-certified natural cosmetics?
The formulas are made from renewable, GMO-free raw materials.
No ingredients derived from mineral oils or silicones
Microplastic-free to protect oceans and rivers
Palm oil must be certified sustainable / organic quality
The biodegradability of ingredients is taken into account.
Products bearing the NATRUE label are not tested on animals
Many consumers choose natural and organic cosmetics for reasons of personal well-being, seeing them as a more holistic choice and to avoid the presence of synthetic ingredients to which they may be sensitive. But increasingly they want to help reduce the exploitation of limited raw materials, and support farmers, producers and communities around the world committed to the production of renewable materials.
"Consumers are looking for authenticity and brands they can trust. Thanks to our consumer research, we know that natural cosmetics are perceived by the public as the best long-term choice, both for us and for the planet. On November 23, Natural Cosmetics Day will seek to highlight some of the many reasons to choose true beauty." adds Mark Smith.
Sunday, October 23, at Korean Cultural Center of Paris, the mayor of Seoul Mr. Se-Hoon Oh and the president of Cosmetic ValleyMr. Marc-Antoine Jamet, signed a strategic partnership agreement between the French competitiveness cluster, national coordinator of the cosmetics industry, and the Seoul metropolitan government. This agreement will strengthen bilateral research and training collaborations between French and Korean universities, support innovation of start-ups and SMEs in both countries and develop their attractiveness to industry in each of their respective territories.
World leader and first exporter, second positive balance of trade in France, the French perfumery and cosmetics industry is evolving in a rapidly growing world market estimated at 600 billion euros. Today, it is mainly driven by Asia, a dynamic market with an average annual growth of 5%.
This agreement is the direct result of the mission that the competitiveness cluster carried out last May in South Korea with the support of the European Commission as part of the " Global Cosmetics Cluster Europe ". Its objective is to strengthen the French presence in a promising market of nearly 6 billion euros. In addition to signing several partnerships with " Osong Biovalley "Through this exchange, the cluster was able to build a relationship of trust with the municipal team of the Korean capital. This rapprochement comes at a time when the city of Seoul, buoyed by the wave of the "Green Revolution", is in the midst of a period of rapid growth. K-Beauty "which has allowed the country of the morning calm to rise in a few years to the 4th place in the world of cosmetics exporters, becoming a new competitor of our manufacturers, intends to become one of the world's beauty capitals, and has invested $ 168 million for the creation in 2023 of a district dedicated to fashion and beauty.
Marc-Antoine Jamet said: " For 30 years, Cosmetic Valley has been developing a strategy to support the internationalization of our cosmetics industry, and in particular its many SMEs. In a context of ever-increasing international competition, we are betting on cooperation with partners and in selected fields, where we have much to learn and do together. When France, a world leader and prescriber in the cosmetics market, meets South Korea, whose success and strength of its K-Beauty are no longer in question, I am certain that a winning combination is formed for both parties. This is the reason for this convention. "
Today's consumers are constantly looking for solutions to improve their daily well-being. This quest is particularly evident in their beauty products, which makes them more demanding in terms of the solidity of the evidence provided on the action delivered, physical and/or psychological. Symrise Consumer Fragrance is committed to meeting this essential demand for balance and serenity, and has thus deployed two large-scale olfactory programs highlighting fragrances that offer both cosmetic and emotional benefits for the beauty world.
Perfumes with cosmetic benefits
Growing consumer interest in the benefits of skin care has resulted in a growing demand for products that combine the need for comfort with the need for health for the largest organ in the human body: the skin. Thus, the cosmetic characteristics usually attributed to the face - sharp and targeted - are now a selling point for beauty products intended for the body. The benefits, features, textures, formats and ingredients initially exclusive to facial care are now found in other beauty care segments such as hair care, bath and shower, and deodorants. Discerning consumers expect products with concentrated active ingredients; therefore, skincare has become more demanding and science-infused. If the future of skincare lies in the active powers of ingredients, fragrances have the opportunity to come into play to deliver effective cosmetic benefits to the skin, thereby enhancing product performance. In order to be as close as possible to consumers' concerns and to respond to this increased need for care, Symrise Consumer Fragrance has developed Fractive, an exclusive and innovative fragrance technology.
Fractives, an exclusive technology with skin care benefits
Symrise Consumer Fragrance's Fragrance and Cosmetic Ingredients divisions have worked hand-in-hand for several years of research, with the goal of creating a unique synergy that brings together the best of both worlds. Going beyond fragrance through the exploration of biological activity, more than 300 fragrance raw materials have been tested for proven activity, resulting in the Fractive Symrise fragrance portfolio; the first fragrances with skin care benefits, shaking up both the fragrance and beauty worlds.
Fragrances with emotional benefits
Fragrances have the power to positively influence both the mood and the body. In a post-pandemic context, consumers are demanding value-added olfactory solutions that target their moods and thereby influence their feelings. This is why Symrise has just launched the new ActiMood fragrance platform internationally, with the objective of offering fragrances that act on emotions and promote well-being.
Actimood, an innovative platform with fragrances that act on emotions and promote well-being
" Scientists have long proven the impact of fragrances on our well-being. Pleasant aromas make us happier, but they can do much more than that. They can improve our health. One key reason: many scents are linked to our memories. The olfactory cortex has direct connections to key brain regions such as the amygdala and hippocampus, structures that play an important role in emotion and memory. Indeed, our sense of smell provides a direct link between the environment and our central nervous system and activates more intense emotional memories than vision or other senses. " Ashutosh Shukla, global category manager for beauty.
Based on this research, and thanks to Symrise's proprietary neuroscience program, Gen-lsys, the Fine Fragrance and Consumer Fragrance units have created ActiMood, a unique platform of patented emotion-activating fragrances.
This innovative and pioneering program was developed both internally, in a synergistic manner, and externally, in close collaboration with open innovation partners in the field of neuroscience, including an external certified clinical center in neuroscience, Spincontrol. In order to confirm the robustness of the results, this development was carried out in several approval stages, from the scientific validation of the raw materials to the validation of the final compositions. Each of them resulted in an approval for the targeted emotions such as energy, well-being, sensuality, self-confidence, relaxation, etc. In the final creation phase, the fragrances were validated with 900 consumers in six major markets (United States, Brazil, France, Germany, China and India - study conducted in 2021). Several parameters were taken into account and studied using a unique methodology combining biometric, psychometric and neurometric measurements. With ActiMood, Symrise is able to propose fragrances with a proven impact on: - The emotion felt - The intensity of the stimulation
" With Fractive and ActiMood, we are fully entering into the 1st value-added fragrance category, in addition to their olfactory and sensory dimensions. Through this approach, combined with our palette of natural, renewable, and biodegradable ingredients, Symrise offers a holistic 360° approach to fragrance around benefits for the skin or patented fragrances that activate emotions, enliven the senses and enhance our well-being. "Anne Cabotin, Senior Vice President Consumer Fragrance
Co-developed with Lablabo, a company specializing in airless packaging with a pouch, Baia is a reusable airless bottle thanks to a refillable pouch. This version is part of Embelia's commitment to sustainable development. The company pays particular attention to reducing the environmental impact of its packaging by offering refillable packaging. Developed for the cosmetics and parapharmacy industries, this airless bottle meets a strong market demand. The Baia Airless is a complete set composed of a 30 or 50 ml recyclable PP bottle, a recyclable PE pouch, a pump for dispensing high viscosity formulas, a collar and a cap. With each dose delivered, the flexible bag retracts. There is no air return in the system in order to preserve the integrity of the formula and to limit the quantity of preservatives. The optimal restitution, up to 95% depending on the formula, avoids any waste. The gesture is simple: after use, the pouch can be easily removed by unscrewing the top part of the assembly. The user can then insert a refill for a new use and reuse the rest of the system, i.e. the collar, the cap and the pump. "Only the pouch is discarded after use, which limits the environmental impact of the Baia airless and represents an economic gain from the second use," says Embelia. The refill is designed to be heat-sealed with an aluminum or plastic cap.
Environmental advantages In addition to being refillable, the Baia airless bottle offers many environmental advantages: the size of the bottle has been optimized to minimize its weight, some ranges incorporate recycled materials and all components can be recycled through traditional sorting channels. Finally, it is entirely manufactured and assembled in France, which reduces its carbon footprint. Embelia has been committed for several years to a sustainable development approach and supports its customers towards more responsible primary packaging solutions. The company, which obtained the Ecovadis Gold label in 2021, has included the reduction of the weight of its packaging, the reuse of packs, recycling and the use of recycled material in its roadmap.
Bvlgari, the world-renowned luxury fashion house, has chosen to partner with Stoelzle Masnieres Parfumerie to present "Le Gemme", a range of four bespoke luxury fragrances: Rubina & Desiria - for her, Tygar & Gyan - for him.
Bvlgari developed this exclusive line in partnership with a renowned airline to enhance the already exquisite experience of its first class passengers.
The four bottles: Tygar, Gyan, Rubinia and Desiria are united in the Le Gemme collection, created by Bvlgari in partnership with the famous airline. The partnership is aimed at the airline's first class passengers, offering them tailored perfumes to take with them on their travels. Each first class kit contains a 30ml bottle of the popular Bvlgari Le Gemme fragrance collection. Bvlgari's fine fragrance collection, Le Gemme, represents an amazing sensory journey from West to East in search of the rarest and most precious gems found in nature. Traveling the mythical gemstone route, Bvlgari discovers ingredients inspired by the iconic gems that constitute the quintessential art of the House. Designed to evoke a single jewel in all its splendor, each fragrance is the ultimate expression of Bvlgari's savoir-faire. Bvlgari once again trusted the team at Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie to create the classically styled 30ml glass bottles with curved walls that complement the finesse of this iconic brand. To emphasize the prestige of these two brands, the bottles were carefully decorated with a black satin spray. The brand, the name of the collection and its fragrance are then embellished in gold using a silk-screening process. Finally, the whole is crowned with a matte finish to complete the design of these elegant bottles.
Bvlgari invites its female first class passengers to enter the enchanting heart of gemstones with the Bvlgari le Gemme 'Rubinia' and 'Desiria' fragrances. Male first class passengers will discover the Bvlgari le Gemme 'Tygar' and 'Gyan' fragrances. Stoelzle is proud to manufacture the Bvlgari le Gemme collaboration bottle collection in Masnières, France.
After postponements due to the pandemic, Forum Labo Lyon, a CIFL event organized by RX France, opened its doors on September 19 and 20 with the support of Only Lyon. Despite the unusual date and the fact that related events were held in parallel, visitors remained loyal to the Lyon event.
2,287 qualified visitors came to the show to discover market trends and talk with the 220 exhibitors who presented their services and products as well as their innovations.
Reflecting the dynamism of the region's laboratory market, 62% of the visitors came from the Rhône Alpes / PACA region, but also 14% from the Ile de France and 8% from abroad (in order of participation the Maghreb, Switzerland, Germany, the United Kingdom and Italy). With an attendance from industry and research, this edition has once again managed to federate the private sector (81%) and the public sector (19%) with the main segments of activity, Pharma-Biotech 27%, Chemical 17%, Academic 14%, Diagnostic/Clinical/Hospital 8%, and finally Agro- Agri 7%.
Forum LABO LYON, a multidisciplinary and qualifying scientific and technical program
Also, the inaugural session on ITMs - Innovative Therapy Drugs presented by Alcimed, the 8 scientific conferences led by scientific societies and associations (Association Bernard Grégory, CFM, SFSTP, SFM, Club de CCM, SCF) as well as the ELRIGfr congress, mobilized nearly 350 participants.
Vast societal themes such as new biotherapies, Sustainable Chemistry or the contribution of the Covid crisis to Science were at the heart of the exchanges. Another key topic was digitalization in all its forms, both in terms of laboratory measurement management and in terms of automation and databases. The technical aspects were not left out, with the new methods of HTPLC or phagotherapy which are gradually gaining ground in the treatment of patients.
Concerning the regulation, in constant evolution, it is the nitrosamines which focused the interest of the researchers of the pharmaceutical laboratories.
Finally, employment remains at the heart of the research world's concerns, and in particular the future of PhDs, as the Bernard Grégory Association mentioned during a round table with PhDs and recruiters.
A business climate driven by Lab'Meetings
This free, tailor-made service offered visitors the opportunity to plan their meetings with exhibitors in advance of the show. 642 qualified meetings were organized, generating numerous contacts and partnerships.
This edition has once again demonstrated that face-to-face meetings are the essence of trade shows, based on conviviality, content sharing, innovation and business.
The Paris edition is already in the starting blocks with 80% of exhibition space already reserved and a repositioning to historical dates. Forum Labo Paris will be held from March 28 to 30, 2023, at Paris expo Porte de Versailles.
How can the beauty market be made easier to manage and trace? How can we ensure intelligent monitoring of production in this sector? Find out in an interview with Maryna Grytsenko, Market Development Manager Beauty & Personal Care, Avery Dennison Smartrac, who talks RFID and digital identification...
By Maryna Grytsenko, Market Development Manager Beauty & Personal Care, Avery Dennison Smartrac
Transparency, smooth purchasing and supply chain visibility are the key issues currently facing the beauty and personal care segment. Present before the pandemic, they have since grown and accelerated.
The drive for increased transparency is driven by a commitment to ethical work practices and by consumers' heightened concern for safety and sustainability issues. According to Avery Dennison's report " The New Transparency ", 70 % of people think trust in a brand is more important today than in the past. In the film " A portrait of a supply chain "Avery Dennison captures what transparency means for people working in the heart of supply chains. The film highlights the importance of creating digital supply chains, enabling greater transparency for raw materials, products and consumers throughout a product's journey.
Cacaste is one of the organizations featured in the film.
This Mexican cocoa butter producer is at the first stage of the supply chain: sourcing and processing of raw materials. Over the years, Cacaste has developed a close working relationship with a network of producers in Tabasco, which has helped build trust and traceability in the supply chain. The connection between man and the land is closely tied to the way supply chains have developed over the centuries. More distant than ever, the end consumer and producer can be connected again, through the use of digital identities, as this growing business that supplies cocoa to beauty companies from the United States to New Zealand demonstrates.
Finally, the pandemic also highlighted supply chain vulnerabilities. Product demand has changed dramatically over the years and has highlighted the lack of agility within brand supply chains. IHL Group estimates that excess inventory and stock-outs are costing the retail industry 1.8 trillion per year due to "global stock distortion : in other words, inventory mismanagement that exceeded Canada's GDP in 2020. By creating a seamless dialogue between what's in-store, what's on reserve, and what's sold online, brands can accurately match supply and demand. The right assortment of products can be delivered at the right time and place, minimizing overproduction and waste and keeping pace with changing consumer demand.
Omnichannel beauty retailers have struggled to trade physical inventory for digital and meet the higher digital demand that has occurred over the past two years. We see the same trend in a post-pandemic scenario when inventories are not accurate. They continue to struggle to meet the increased appetite of shoppers for omnichannel, seamless and instantaneous product availability.
The lack of end-to-end, item-level visibility and supply chain transparency has put pressure on agility, safety and sustainability. The pandemic and subsequent e-commerce boom has also caused a larger shift in consumer behavior, especially in the beauty industry. By 2020, data from McKinsey & Co. had shown a 55% and 75% decline in cosmetics and fragrance purchases compared to the previous year. However, the post-Covid era and signs of a new recession are bringing new changes and a need to adapt faster and faster to new trends at both the brand and consumer level.
It's no secret that sustainability has also become paramount for beauty and personal care brands, as well as retailers and especially their customers. The clean beauty movement has placed a focus on ingredient integrity and environmental footprints. It is common for beauty brands to overproduce products to ensure a wide selection at all times. This often leads to unwanted excess - as trends change quickly and not all inventory is sold on time or before the expiration date. The energy and raw material expenses to manufacture, distribute and often dispose of this excess can be very high and also comes at a cost to the planet and brand value.
Linking the physical world to the digital world
Brands will have to be increasingly flexible and face a greater need to maximize their processes. Technology will play an important role in this.
Digital identification technologies, such as RFID or NFC, give non-digital objects a unique digital identity, opening up vast possibilities for supply chain management, commerce and communication. This digital identity is created when a lipstick, palette, or whatever item is manufactured. The identity travels with the product from the point of manufacture to the factory, through the supply chain to the retailer and beyond. It communicates information about the presence, authenticity, location of the individual product, or even just to connect with consumers.
How does it work in practice? Let's take the example of RFID technology.
Avery Dennison's radio frequency identification (RFID) technology enables the wireless or contactless transfer of digital identification and additional data between an RFID tag via electromagnetic waves. It can seamlessly identify, authenticate, track, detect and interact with every object. RFID can read tags without line of sight from a distance of a few centimeters to more than 20 meters, depending on the type of RFID system. Typical examples would be reading hundreds of products tagged inside boxes on a pallet with a fixed reader door mounted behind a shipping dock door. Or swiping a handheld reader across store shelves and racks to count inventory in seconds. Or tapping a smartphone on a luxury handbag to verify authenticity and enroll in a loyalty program.
Increase sales while reducing inventory
Following a successful pilot project, the Brazilian cosmetics company, Grupo Boticàrio, was the first to adopt RFID in the Brazilian beauty industry. Supply chain management is a challenge for any beauty company, one that proved increasingly daunting for Grupo Boticàrio as the company experienced double-digit growth in Latin America and the United States. Common problems included poor inventory visibility, stock-outs, high product shrinkage, slow product flow and inaccurate data for demand planners.
It chose the technology to provide end-to-end traceability across its increasingly complex supply chain. The RFID system was applied to improve five processes: shipment receiving, shelf replenishment, inventory counting, payment and demand planning.
Store employees noticed improvements right away. Incoming shipments are recorded faster and more accurately. Inventory is categorized in the store database as "back of store" or "front of store," making it easy to see when shelves need to be restocked and to track goods as they are moved. Alerts for products with impending expiration dates allow store staff to discount and sell these items before they expire, increasing revenue and reducing waste. At checkout, multiple products are counted together, rather than item by item. Inventory is counted much faster and more accurately than with the old barcode system. As a result, demand planners receive better information that allows them to order the right products for replenishment and better forecast sales.
For more information, please visit website or contact Maryna Grytsenko-Nénon, Market Development Manager Europe, RFID Beauty & Personal Care at Avery Dennison by e-mail at [email protected].
