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In vitro experiments on skin cells and skin aging: interview with Catherine Grillon, researcher at CNRS

Longer life expectancy, pollution and environmental problems have led to a strong demand for anti-aging products, and this is now a key issue for the cosmetics industry. Catherine Grillon, a researcher at the Centre de Biophysique Moléculaire in cutaneous biology and microenvironment, proposes to familiarize cosmetics professionals with in vitro techniques on skin cells. 

Why is skin cell biology an essential area of research for the cosmetics industry?

Cutaneous biology has come a long way in recent years: we can now better identify the mechanisms by which the skin functions and maintains its balance, as well as the causes of skin disorders. These advances are enabling us to explore new avenues and find new active ingredients for better-adapted, more effective cosmetics.

Furthermore, in today's society, consumers are increasingly attentive to scientific proof of the efficacy of the products they buy, so it's necessary for the cosmetics industry to be able to provide this proof through science. With the use of animals having been totally banned in the cosmetics industry in France and the European Union since 2013, new ways had to be found to assess the activity and safety of cosmetic products. Cell biology has responded to this need with the development of various in vitro skin models, from the simplest to the most complex, and new techniques for assessing compound activity in vitro.

Where has your research path taken you?

My research focuses on skin aging and the study of oxygenation on the skin's antioxidant defenses. 

During my thesis, I studied skin cell receptors and began to develop ways of specifically targeting these cells to deliver active ingredients. This led me to focus on the cutaneous microenvironment, and more specifically on the construction of in vitro models closer to the skin in physiological conditions. I was mainly interested in the skin's oxygenation rate, which is very low in the epidermis. Indeed, the two main characteristics of skin aging are destruction of the extracellular matrix, particularly in the dermis, and oxidative stress by free radicals. The skin's oxygenation level is essential for the formation of these free radicals, and therefore for skin ageing. 

Furthermore, having participated in several collaborative projects with companies in the cosmetics field, I quickly realized the importance of testing active ingredients on skin cells, as a complement to in tubo tests, with isolated enzymes or molecules. Working on skin cells to assess pro/antioxidant activity enables us, for example, to identify direct-acting antioxidant compounds as well as inducers of the cell's antioxidant defenses. 

What can your trainees expect?

Training Skin cell biology: cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications that I propose with CNRS Formation Entreprises is a three-day course held in my laboratory. Participants are introduced to three types of experimentation on skin cells, enabling them to evaluate :

  • Possible cytotoxicity
  • Pro/antioxidant activity
  • Collagen production

Half the time is devoted to experimentation: participants carry out all the manipulations on the three techniques studied and analyze their results.

A theoretical part is also developed to review the various existing techniques, define the important parameters to be taken into account and the selection criteria, according to the experience of the participants and the equipment to which they have access in their laboratory. Time is set aside for discussion, at the trainees' request, to go into more detail on various points.

At the end of the course, participants will be able to choose the techniques best suited to their needs, define the experimental parameters, carry out the experiment and interpret the results. They also leave with the contact details of the experts involved, who remain at their disposal should they encounter any difficulties in implementing these techniques.

Skin cell biology: cosmetic and pharmaceutical applicationstraining CNRS Formation Entreprisesfrom March 27 to 29, 2023.

Cosmogen helped Womaness launch Let's Neck and Eye Openerses

Cosmogen's patented Squeeze'n roll and Tense tubes have become the respective allies of the bestseller Lets'Neck and Eye Opener, two pro-ageing skincare products from Womaness, the Californian brand founded to bring light to the skin. menopositivity to women.

Let's Neck firms the neck and décolleté area thanks to its massaging and refreshing metal roller applicator. Eye Opener revitalizes the delicate eye contour with its metal tip.

Squeeze'n roll is part of Cosmogen's Squeeze'n range, and features a rotating on/off closure, allowing the applicator to be dispensed (ON), then applied and washed (OFF). The latest generation can be completely disassembled to enable the applicator to be reused on a new tube, as well as for recycling purposes.

Tube Tense comes with 5 new textured metal applicators, designed to offer a different sensory signature to the application. The applicator is also removable for reuse.

Their tubes are available in recycled plastic.

Ki'Leaft, the new Berkem active ingredient extracted from the kiwi leaf

Groupe Berkem, a leading player in plant-based chemistry, announces that its subsidiary Berkem, a French specialist in plant extraction, is launching a new active ingredient, Ki'Leaft. Ki'Leaft is a cosmos-certified 100% kiwifruit leaf extract of natural origin, upcycled and produced locally close to the Berkem Group's extraction plant in the Dordogne. Ki'Leaft meets market needs with its antioxidant, firming and regenerating properties, and its ability to strengthen the skin's barrier function.

The result of 10 years of Research & Development

As an industrial expert in plant chemistry, the Berkem Group has developed and tested the capabilities of kiwifruit leaf extract. After 10 years of R&D, various studies have revealed the properties of Ki'Leaft, an active ingredient rich in sugars and containing polyphenols*.

It has been clinically proven that Ki'Leaft offers an immediate tightening effect, helps regenerate the skin, reinforces its barrier function and structure, and has a high antioxidant capacity. Ki'Leaft meets the expectations of the cosmetics market by offering benefits for the facial care market (serum, facial care...), which is growing by 10% worldwide every year since 2020 (source Mintel GNPD - The Future of Facial Skincare, 2022).

Kiwifruit - a little history :
Actinidia chinensis is the name given by French botanist Jules Emiles Planchon in 1847, derived from the Greek aktis meaning little spoke, in reference to the female flowers unfolding like the spokes of a bicycle wheel.
Native to China, where it has been enjoyed for over 2,000 years, this liana fruit, growing along the great Yangtze River, was known as Yang Tao, the Yang peach.
Introduced to Europe in the mid-18th century, it was then known only as an ornamental plant, and became acclimatized in European botanical gardens during the 19th century.
Cultivated in New Zealand in the early 20th century, the land of its first successes gave it the name Kiwi, just like its emblematic bird, which is small, brown and hairy.
Today grown and consumed throughout the world, it is appreciated for its taste, and its rich antioxidant content makes it the health ally par excellence. In France, the 1st commercial harvest took place in 1972, and the South West - the region with the best climate, soil and sunshine - now accounts for three quarters of national production.

An illustration of upcycling in support of research

The Nouvelle-Aquitaine region accounts for 75% of national kiwifruit production (45,245 tonnes of kiwifruit were produced in France in 2021 - source Agreste), and the vast majority of the fruit's leaves are discarded at harvest time. With this in mind, researchers at Berkem, specialists in plant extraction based in the Dordogne (Gardonne) close to kiwifruit farms, investigated, tested and validated the effectiveness of the active ingredient to address the cosmetics market. The Berkem Group uses kiwifruit leaves 100% of natural origin, grown under controlled conditions and certified organic.

" With 30 years' experience in plant extraction, the Berkem Group, integrator of plant chemistry, is constantly seeking to be a forerunner in the development of innovative solutions, particularly in the fields of health, beauty and nutrition. The development of this new upcycling-derived active ingredient, with its remarkable properties, meets the needs of our customers - both professionals and major brands - in the cosmetics industry, while at the same time illustrating our Group's CSR strategy. "says Charlène Martin, Marketing Manager, Berkem Group.

Croda joins the World Business Council for Sustainable Development

Croda International Plc, a company that puts science at the heart of creating high-performance ingredient solutions to innovate and improve everyday life, joined more than 200 of the world's leading sustainable companies as a new member of the World Business Council for Sustainable Development (WBCSD) on October 10.  

Croda creates, manufactures and sells chemical and specialty ingredients to consumers and industries around the world, employing more than 5,500 people worldwide. Last year, Croda's science-based goals for reducing carbon emissions, in line with the goal of limiting temperature rise to 1.5°C, were fully verified and the company was recognized as Company of the Year at the World Sustainability Awards.

In joining the WBCSD, Croda also announces its aspiration to become a "Zero Impact Nature Company" by 2030. In addition to its Climate, Land and People Positive sustainability commitment, the company will strive to achieve a "zero emissions future" for nature, in which natural capital is protected and restored, promoting essential health, well-being and prosperity for all.

Croda's "Net Nature Positive" ambition will be achieved by placing greater emphasis on preserving and restoring natural ecosystems in its supply chains, minimizing the impact of its operations on water, and helping to accelerate sustainable and regenerative agriculture.

Croda's ambition to be the most sustainable ingredient supplier and to become a positive impact company for climate, land and people by 2030 is well aligned with the WBCSD's Vision 2050: Time to Transform - a vision of a world where by 2050, more than nine billion people can live well, within the planet's limits.

Steve Foots, managing director of the Croda Group, said, " We are delighted to join the WBCSD. Sharing knowledge and collaborating for higher positive impact is essential to accelerate the system transformations needed for a net zero, nature positive and more equitable future. In parallel, we are committed to a Net Nature Positive future that is essential to the future health, well-being and prosperity of us all. "

" At Croda, our sustainability commitments, announced over two years ago, are at the core of our strategy, and we pride ourselves on providing unique solutions to help our clients achieve their sustainability goals and those of society at large. Through the global influence of the WBCSD, we can maximize the impact of our actions across all sectors and build on the work of other leading organizations. "

By joining the WBCSD, Croda will benefit from a global network of nearly 70 national business councils and collaboration with other targeted CEOs, providing unparalleled global networking reach.

WBCSD President and CEO Peter Bakker said, "Croda is an award-winning company in the Peter Bakker, WBCSD President and CEO, said, " Croda is an award-winning sustainability company and an important addition to our network. Through their involvement with the WBCSD, they will help advance nature-based solutions and stimulate collective corporate action on water management. By combining a sound scientific approach with sustainability, Croda will be key to transforming systems and achieving a world in which more than 9 billion people live well, within the limits of the planet. "

Cherries: 1st hygiene and care range for men's intimate zones

Hair deemed unsightly, hygiene, increased sensations or simply to please their partner, more and more men are waxing their intimate areas partially or completely. Today, they look at their bodies in a totally different way, and for many, hair removal is becoming an essential part of their skincare routine.

An Ifop* study on hair removal habits in 2021 revealed that, beyond personal preferences and sexual practices, there are several reasons why more and more men are waxing, whether in an institute or in the privacy of their own bathroom. These include pressure from some women who feel that the effort they make should be shared, others who prefer their partners to be "clean" in this area, or pornographic films whose totally hairless actors influence men.

If for a long time a man's hair determined his virility, today's codes have evolved. Intimate area hair removal affects all styles of men: straight, gay, sportsmen, geeks, bobos, sex addicts... Starting with a little trimming as a "summer haircut", some have come to enjoy the practice. Self-confidence, freedom, sexual fulfillment: there are many reasons why men wax their private parts.

Your men can now count on Cherries hygiene and care products to help them look after their intimate areas in complete safety. The first range of quality dermo-cosmetic products for men's intimate areas, recommended by doctors, dermatologists and urologists, Cherries is an effective solution.J^|fj
safe, quick and painless.

Intimate depilatory cream

Fragrance- and paraben-free, Cherries Intimate Depilatory Cream is applied by hand to the areas to be depilated, scrotum and gluteal cleft, avoiding the mucous membranes of the glans penis and foreskin. After 10 minutes, dissolved hairs can be removed with a damp glove. The skin is smooth and visibly softer than after shaving, and less traumatized than with depilatory wax. Regrowth is natural and itch-free.
Its formula, based on 88 % ingredients of natural origin, also contains two essential components:
- Potassium thioglycolate, the most effective depilatory active ingredient to date for dissolving hair at the root.
- The Skin Preserve System™, a latest-generation silicone elastomer combined with high-tolerance natural shea butter which. while letting the skin breathe, form a protective barrier, preventing the depilatory active ingredient from coming into direct contact with the epidermis.

Intimate post-depilation care cream

Applied ten minutes after depilation, Cherries Intimate Post-depilation Care Cream provides freshness, hydration and softness.
Formulated with 95 % of natural-origin ingredients, fragrance-free and paraben-free, it also cleanses, soothes, purifies and delays hair regrowth.
Assets
- Hyaluronic acid, a moisturizer and anti-aging agent, helps maintain water on the skin's surface.
- Nourishing, healing and repairing, Souchet oil is traditionally used in Morocco for its anti-hair-growth properties,
- Panthenol. soothing and healing, relieves itching and skin irritations,
- Lactic acid stimulates gentle exfoliation, cell renewal and collagen production for anti-ageing and firming action.
- Nourishing and moisturizing oleic oil helps strengthen the skin barrier,
- Vitamin E. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory.

Phytodia relaunches the brand L'Esperluète

Following its takeover of Atelier de Savons et Cosmétiques Artisanaux (A.S.C.A), plant and organic cosmetics specialist Phytodia (67) is relaunching the L'Esperluète organic cosmetics brand. Comprising 24 products - 8 solid soaps, 4 lip balms, 9 face care products and 3 body care products -, L'Esperluète is for the whole family, and is ideal for pregnant women and babies. Handcrafted in Alsace, all the brand's products are Cosmos-certified by Ecocert, a guarantee of quality that Green Mums find particularly appealing. L'Esperluète is distributed in around 250 outlets in France and on its website.

Transparent & responsible cosmetics

Certified Cosmos, Phytodia uses responsible and ecological production processes. Rather than sourcing plants from the other side of the planet, the laboratory makes maximum use of the local flora of Alsace and the Vosges, and works as closely as possible with local or French producers to limit its carbon footprint.  

The raw materials used to make L'Esperluète products are rigorously selected for their quality, sensoriality, active ingredients and environmentally-friendly production methods. For the organic hemp, sunflower, pumpkin, hazelnut and camelina oils used in L'Esperluète skincare products, Phytodia works in particular with local producers. For apple oil, organic plum oil, organic sea buckthorn oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil and specific essential oils, the laboratory sources from the rest of France. And when ingredients can't be French, they are sourced from suppliers with a socially responsible approach: ingredients certified Fair for Life, working with communities of small producers or promoting women's financial independence.

Handcrafted cosmetics made in France

L'Esperluète solid soaps are made entirely by hand with 100% natural ingredients, using a cold saponification process, an ancestral manufacturing method. This low-energy process preserves the quality of the plant-based raw materials used, to deliver high-quality soaps. Their glycerin content (naturally produced during the saponification process) and extra-greasiness help to moisturize the skin. In order to limit over-packaging, L'Esperluète has redesigned all its packaging to adopt a simple, no-frills look. Product names are minimalist, inspired by chemical elements and limited to two letters or two numbers. The new design evokes the periodic table of elements and its classification. All L'Esperluète packaging is certified Ecocert Greenlife according to Cosmos standards, and is eco-responsible. Solid soaps are presented in cardboard boxes made in the Doubs region using Made in Italy paper, and are fully recyclable. Aluminum packaging has been eliminated in favor of glass bottles, caps and jars made in Europe. Lip balm tubes are made entirely from recycled cardboard. Finally, cosmetics labels are made in France.

Calmandarin from Mibelle Biochemistry to combat inflammation

The term inflammaging is made up of the two words "inflammation" and "aging". The human body's ability to counteract inflammation diminishes with age. As a result, inflammation can no longer be completely eliminated, and chronic low-grade inflammation develops, contributing to the development of age-related conditions.
Calmandrin is our long-lasting solution to inflammaging, significantly improving the signs of aging, as well as soothing reddened and inflamed skin. In addition to its calming effect on irritated skin, it also significantly increases skin firmness and density. Calmandrin is obtained by upcycling the peel paste of organic mandarins used in the distillation process for the production of organic perfumes on the island of Chios.
The benefits of CALMandrin™:

  • Soothes irritated skin
  • Soothes inflamed and reddened skin.
  • Promotes collagen production
  • Improves skin firmness and density

A black cover for Anomalia's Versatile Essence(s)

The original and inspiring Parisian brand Anomalia turned to TNT Global Manufacturing for the design and production of the caps for its eau de parfum collection Versatile Gasoline(s)* which celebrates singularity and authenticity, in collaboration with floral artist and perfume architect Daniel Ost.

The cover in zamak is galvanized nickel. The black finish was obtained by spray painting, while the gold tone of its lower part was obtained by e-coating. The insert in PP liner dyed in the mass ensures the maintenance of the cap on the bottle. The logo, engraved, tone on tone, appears discreetly on the top of the cap.

*Rock Rose, Ceremony, Between-Acts, Humanist Gardens, Narcotic Bohemic, Aquatic Ozonic, Abed. Anomalia invites you to mix fragrances and play with your feelings.

Innovation Zone Diamond Award for BB Biont at ICI Indonesia

One month after its first award, Sederma has just won a new prize for BB-Biont at the ICI congress in Indonesia. Dr Richard Leroux, Sederma's Scientific and Technological Director, received the Diamond Award for the most innovative ingredient of the year.
This biomimetic peptide offers an innovative holobiontic approach that reduces skin marks and helps achieve healthy, smooth, flawless skin.


We are very proud of this award, which responds to the needs of consumers in Asia and around the world. At Sederma, we believe that this type of holistic active ingredient, promoting a sustainable and positive approach to beauty, represents the future of cosmetics. "said Pascale Rossi, Marketing Director.

Dyson invests half a billion pounds in new beauty innovations

The investment will enable the opening of new research laboratories and the development of 20 new beauty products over the next four years.

Dyson announces the investment of half a billion pounds to expand and accelerate its research and technological development of beauty innovations. The company also announces plans to launch 20 new beauty products over the next four years. Alongside this investment, Dyson unveils the results of its comprehensive hair study. It provides in-depth knowledge of hair types, styling habits and perceptions of hair health around the world.

Dyson revolutionized hair care 6 years ago with the launch of the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer: a device that uses fast, controlled airflow and intelligent heat control to dry hair quickly, while protecting it. Since then, Dyson has developed a range of beauty technologies designed to offer styling styles to suit all hair types, while limiting the damage caused by extreme heat. The performance of Dyson styling tools is the result of a decade of research - from hair structure to airflow dynamics - while addressing the effect of thermal, mechanical and chemical damage.

Research at the heart of Dyson

At Dyson's four technology campuses, 6,000 engineers and scientists have access to hundreds of laboratories. These spaces allow new ideas and technologies to be rigorously tested 24 hours a day. Dyson teams develop test beds and use state-of-the-art equipment to understand different hair typologies; but also to identify better, healthier styling techniques. Equipment such as
Scanning electron microscopes, thermal cameras and airflow laser smoke machines help engineers better understand the impact of hair damage, hair types around the world and the effects of high-speed airflow.
Developing the right technology for all hair types remains a crucial objective for the research and development teams. This investment will create new laboratory space to refine Dyson's knowledge of hair types and damage, while supporting the diversification of Dyson's range of beauty technologies.

From the cortex to the cuticle, from the root to the tip of the hair: The findings of the Dyson study

User understanding is an essential factor in the design process at Dyson, supported by science and hair research. This research and knowledge guides our engineering decisions and enables engineers to design products that deliver better results, for healthy, well-groomed hair, whatever the hair type. Dyson's obsession with hair science has led to a global hair study. The study covers hair health, perceptions, habits and attitudes towards styling across 23 countries and 23,000 people. This study enables Dyson engineers to better understand styling frustrations.

Misconceptions about hair health:

> 66% of French people say their hair is damaged - dandruff, hair loss, graying hair and greasy hair are their main concerns.
However, these concerns are not linked to the fact that their hair is damaged, since 69 % of French people feel that their hair is healthy.

> Respondents describe healthy hair as soft (35.3%), shiny (32.1 %), and supple (30.7 %).

" Dandruff, hair loss and graying hair are not types of damage, but problems related to the scalp and hair growth. Hair damage refers to the breakdown of the hair cuticle and cortex, which can leave your hair looking frizzy, dull or brittle. The best way to maintain healthy hair is to prevent and minimize exposure to sources of damage, such as extreme heat, which makes hair weaker and more susceptible to breakage and split ends. "says Rob Smith, hair science specialist at Dyson.

Habits and styling behaviours :

> Hair washing remains frequent: Dyson's global survey reveals that more than 1 in 2 French people wash their hair every day or once every two days.

> Over 58% of French people changed their styling habits during the pandemic, washing their hair less (10.6 %) and styling their hair less (10 %).

> However, there's an increasing emphasis on hair care and styling. Conditioners, serums and rinse-off masks are the most widely used.

" How often you wash your hair depends on your hair type, activity level and environment. Excessive washing, however, can be very harmful, robbing the scalp of its natural oils and leaving hair dry. In general, the greasier our hair or scalp, the more often we think we need to wash our hair. Visit
Straight hair can appear flatter due to sebum build-up, while wavy or curly hair absorbs sebum and requires less washing. Respect your scalp by using shampoos adapted to your hair type. Don't forget to take into account the pollution levels in your environment and wash your hair to eliminate pollution too, as the combination of pollution and UV rays can cause significant damage to hair.
"says Rob Smifh, hair science specialist at Dyson.

Dyson hair care technologies

The irreplaceable Dyson Corroie straightener

Suitable for all hair types, this unique styling tool features three temperature levels. A sensor measures the temperature 100 times per second. Intelligent Heat Control technology guarantees perfect heat level precision, providing a perfect finish and shine. Thanks to Dyson's patented technology, the flexible copper plates fit perfectly into the hair.
hair strands, applying even heat and tension with each stroke, reducing the need for heat, and thus halving damage to the hair fiber. Equipped with a lithium battery, the Dyson Corrale straightener also offers comfort of use, with a 30-minute autonomy, making it the perfect tool to give to moms who want to take care of their hair and style from the bathroom to the handbag.

The timeless Dyson Supersonic hair dryer

Designed for different hair types, the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer is powerful and fast. Thanks to its Air Multiplier technology, the appliance uses a fast but concentrated airflow. The air is propelled by the power of the Dyson V9 digital motor, integrated into the handle, which ensures perfect balance during styling.
Unlike traditional hairdryers, the Dyson Supersonic hairdryer measures air temperature more than 40 times per second thanks to Intelligent Heat Control technology. The temperature is thus regulated and precise, avoiding damage caused by the use of extreme heat. Hair is protected and shiny.

The Dyson Airwrop", the must-have

Like the Dyson Supersonic hairdryer and the Dyson Corroie, the Dyson Airwrap features Intelligent Heat Control technology, enabling style-conscious people to achieve the desired result at a lower temperature to prevent heat damage to their hair. Thanks to an aerodynamic phenomenon known as the Coanda effect, the Dyson Airwrap makes it possible to style using only air combined with gentle heat. The result, whether you choose to curl, wave, straighten or blow-dry, creates a natural look.

The special Periwinkle Blue/Pink editions will be available in Dyson Demo Stores and on the website from 1 January.er October. Each unit is included in a gift box with a selection of accessories, including a matching box, brush and comb designed by Dyson. The detangling comb is designed with wide, polished teeth to glide easily through wet and dry hair and detangle with minimal friction, while the large paddle brush features air-cushioned suspension for scalp comfort and is designed to smooth
hair during drying.

A few figures on Hair Science:

Each hair has its own nervous system, blood supply and muscles.

  • A lock of hair can also support a weight of up to 2 kg.
  • Hair is dead when it leaves the scalp, and cannot be restored once damaged.
  • Extreme heat changes the shape of the keratin strands inside the hair. At over 150°C, a-keratin slowly transforms into P-keratin, making hair weaker and less elastic over time.
  • Every year, the hair on your head grows to a total length of 11 km. The average human head of hair contains 80,000 to 150,000 hairs. Hair is the second fastest-growing tissue in the human body, after bone marrow.
  • Shiny hair is healthy hair. Healthy hair reflects more light, while the pores of damaged hair scatter it everywhere, reducing shine.
  • Asian hair is thicker than Western hair. Thick hair stays styled longer because each hair is thicker. However, it can tend to curl, making it more difficult to style.

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