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An online tool to guide users to the ideal emulsifier

Croda Personal Care has launched the SenStories Selector, a new tool available on its website designed to guide users to the ideal emulsifier for their skincare formulations. 

The sensory appreciation of a formulation can be described in many different ways. This new tool bridges the gap between the consumer's descriptive language and that of the formulator to provide qualitative sensory data. It uses a reliable and reproducible methodology, according to Croda, to link consumer perception to the choice of vocabulary and the combination of ingredients and colloidal structure corresponding to a given sensory experience.  

The understanding gained from using the tool can aid predictive ingredient selection. By enabling the development of formulations with a targeted and desired sensory profile, valuable development time can be saved, giving the formulator a head start in his product development process. 

The data on which the tool is based was generated by studying how two unique groups of consumers perceive the tactile and sensory characteristics of a range of simple skincare formulas. The consumers were based in Singapore and France, providing an insight into two important but culturally opposed regions in terms of beauty routine. 

Consumer analysis tools were used to identify correlations or differences between the descriptive language used by each consumer group (sensory semantics) and the technical sensory language (sensory syntax) used by sensory evaluation professionals. The SenStories Selector tool was then developed using an algorithm to offer users a quick and easy way to discover oil-in-water emulsifier systems based on the sensoriality desired by the target consumer. 

To use the tool, formulators select the consumer target they wish to explore, then one or two of the semantic options (descriptors in consumer language) relating to their target sensory profile. Further refinement of ingredient recommendations can take into account regulatory restrictions or ingredient certifications that may be of interest. 

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Responsible sourcing of the palm oil industry

Committed to responsible innovation that cares for the environment and its stakeholders, Seppic works to ensure a sustainable supply of palm oil.

Palm fat chains provide a wide range of properties essential to the manufacture of certain biosourced, high-performance and biodegradable ingredients, making this sector an important part of Seppic's CSR strategy.

By joining the Action for Sustainable Derivatives (ASD) collective initiative in 2019, in its first year of existence, Seppic is forging a partnership which, thanks to the SPI (Sustainable Palm Index), to assess the performance of its main suppliers of palm derivatives and their actions in favor of a more virtuous sector. In 2021, Seppic obtained a score of 91/100 for its commitments, procedures and results in favor of the transformation of the palm industry.

ASD brings together 23 members, mostly from the cosmetics industry, whose common goal is to accelerate the transformation of the palm oil industry. Thanks to this collective effort, ASD now covers 10 to 20% of the palm kernel oil oleochemicals market, and has achieved 86% of transparency to mills on the annual purchasing volume of its 23 members.

Since 2010, Seppic has also been a member of the Roundtable for Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO), which is working to make the palm industry a sustainable one. By 2021, 98 % of Seppic's palm-derived inputs were RSPO-certified. Mass Balance (RSPO). The 2025 target is to reach 100 % of these inputs.

Jean-Baptiste Dellon, Managing Director of Seppic, comments: "We're proud to be part of this great collective adventure alongside ASD, and to be working with RSPO to transform the palm oil industry. These partnerships are perfectly in line with our committed and well-considered innovation policy. The results of the work carried out over the last two years demonstrate the strength of our joint efforts, and encourage us to continue to pursue this approach.

EcoVadis Platinum Medal for Firmenich

Firmenich, a specialist in fragrances and flavors, has received a Platinum rating from EcoVadis for its environmental and social performance for the second consecutive time. EcoVadis, a sustainability rating agency, has increased Firmenich's score by five points to 88/100. With this evaluation, the group is placed in the top 1% of more than 85,000 companies evaluated and is at the top of its industry.

"This second consecutive EcoVadis Platinum rating indicates that Firmenich has extended its leadership by implementing ambitious environmental and social goals effectively every day at the highest global level, said Gilbert Ghostine, CEO of Firmenich. Our improved, industry-leading performance is a tribute to the hard work of all my colleagues, who make our company a force for good for the climate, nature and people."

"We are grateful for this 88/100 score, which demonstrates that we are continually living up to our environmental, social and governance (ESG) strategy and not resting on our laurels, said Gianluca Colombo, Chief Procurement Officer, Firmenich, and member of the EcoVadis CPO Advisory Board. Since we joined the EcoVadis rating process several years ago, it has helped us step up our focus on sustainable supply chains, integrating risk and engaging closely with our suppliers."

Firmenich's sustainability policies, initiatives, results and "ESG Ambitions 2025-2030" were analyzed using internationally recognized standards. EcoVadis assessed the group's sustainability performance against 21 criteria in four categories, awarding scores of 90/100 for environment, labor and human rights, and sustainable sourcing practices, and 80/100 for ethics. Firmenich had improved its overall EcoVadis score from 83 points out of 100 in 2020 to 88 points out of 100 in 2021.

Albéa's EcoFusion Top innovation: the fusion of tube head and cap for weight reduction

With the introduction of EcoFusion Top, Albéa has taken another step towards responsible packaging: the two-in-one solution offers a weight reduction of over 80% compared with standard head+cap solutions, and a weight reduction of 55%* for the entire tube compared with standard tubes.
By designing a unique opening and closing system and reducing the number of tube components to two, Albéa has made EcoFusion Top a first in the beauty market and a new milestone in its product roadmap.
 "Reducing the use of plastic through weight reduction is a top priority on our responsible tubes roadmap." explains Caroline Hughes, Albéa Tubes Marketing Manager.  "As a single-component opening and closing system, EcoFusion Top is the most advanced weight-reduction solution on the market. What's more, less plastic in the packaging means a smaller carbon footprint and reduced environmental impact." 


EcoFusion Top is manufactured in HDPE to guarantee mono-materiality and recyclability of the pipe. This two-in-one system is available with different skirt options, such as Greenleaf for laminated tubes and Thin-Wall technology for extruded tubes.
This innovation is also adapted to the e-commerce market and complies with the Ista-6 standard.

*D50 tube, 200ml, EcoFusion Top + Thin-Wall 350µm vs. standard head+cap with 500µm skirt thickness.

Regeneration and cellular interconnectivity

A biotechnological product from Silab, Regenixir is an anti-aging active ingredient offering rapid, all-round regeneration for mature skin.

Boosting key regeneration processes

In the event of aggression, several systems (cutaneous, immune, vascular) cooperate to energize the cellular interactions essential to skin regeneration. The fibroblast plays a pivotal role, interconnecting these three systems by secreting a pool of growth factors. These are known as the "fibroblast regenerative complex". Although this dynamic process exists throughout life, original modelling by Silab research has shown that it is altered with age.1.

Silab has developed Regenixir, a regenerating active ingredient that stimulates the skin's ability to synthesize its own growth elixir. By restoring the ability of aged fibroblasts to interact with their environment, the active ingredient enables transversal action on three interconnected systems:

  • skin system: matrix remodeling and epidermal renewal are improved2 ;
  • vascular system: the formation of a vascular network is restored3 ;
  • immune system: the population of pro-regenerative macrophages is boosted.

Improve skin quality

According to Silab, after 21 days of application, Regenixir tested at 2.5% in emulsion showed anti-wrinkle efficacy, significantly reducing crow's feet wrinkles in Caucasian subjects (-10%) and Asian subjects (-6%).

Under the same conditions, tested on Caucasian volunteers, :

- improves the skin's biomechanical properties (firmness: +10%; elasticity: +14%; tone: +25%);

- reduces the visibility of microvessels (-6%) and is effective against dark circles, significantly improving their color (b* parameter: -2.9%);

- significantly restores parameters characteristic of complexion radiance (radiance: +9%; pink color: +15%; olive color: -7%; luminosity: -6%).

All these effects continue after 42 days of treatment and are perceived by the volunteers themselves.

Biotechnological origin

As part of the development of Regenixir, Silab turned its attention to Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast. Widely used in the food industry, this yeast is also recognized by the medical and scientific community for its many properties: rich in nutrients, ability to stimulate energy production and immune defenses, etc.

Silab has harnessed the health benefits of S. cerevisiae by extracting oligo-β-glucans capable of restoring the interconnectivity of the cutaneous, immune and vascular systems, for a regenerating anti-aging effect.

Regenixir (Saccharomyces cerevisiae Extract) is a patented product, available in aqueous solution (recommended dose: 0.25 to 2.5%) and compliant with biodiversity regulations. This active ingredient has a natural origin content of 99% (ISO 16128) and complies with international cosmetics regulations (Europe, United States, China, Japan, etc.).

1. Through scientific partnerships with two prestigious international research laboratories, Silab has acquired new technological expertise. The internalization of the skills needed to develop innovative vascularized and immune cell models has enabled us to demonstrate in an unprecedented way the depletion of the fibroblast regenerative complex with age, and its deleterious effect on the interactions of aged fibroblasts with the cutaneous, vascular and immune systems.

2. Tested at 1% on aged human fibroblasts, Regenixir significantly restores the migration rate of aged fibroblasts (+97%) and significantly stimulates their differentiation into myofibroblasts (α-SMA synthesis: +40%).

3. With Regenixir at 1%, the aged fibroblast secretome significantly restores the migration speed (+93%) and cohesion (ZO-1: +77%) of aged endothelial cells.

Unipex: a 2022 concept on the waterless beauty trend

At the Cosmet'Agora trade show, held on January 11 and 12, Unipex unveiled its new box of the year: "Oasis", based on the trend Waterless beauty

"Indeed, time is running out! Water is an increasingly scarce commodity, and already a luxury for some. Let's avoid its depletion, rethink our consumption and take action! Discover this disruptive box and break the codes of your beauty routine. Whether for skincare or hygiene, Waterless Beauty has arrived in your bathroom. Protect the planet and your skin with our three ultra-sensorial products! Formulate with less (or even no) water!"states Unipex in one of its communications.

Included in the box are: a melting make-up remover wax (a waxy anhydrous texture that melts on application and transforms into an oil with a light, non-greasy feel), an eco-designed supple emulsion (with a silky feel, cold-formulated with a selection of sustainable ingredients), and a concentrated lactescent mask (a waxy to-milk gel with a lactescent effect for hydration and a radiant complexion).

BiotechMarine, Serdex and EPI France merge to form Seppic SA

In 2013, 2017 and 2021, Seppic confirms its strategy and strengthens its positioning in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and nutritional actives market by acquiring BiotechMarine, Serdex and EPI France, three companies that embody Seppic's know-how and expertise in marine biotechnologies and plant extraction.

The beginning of this year marks a new step in this integration process with the merger of all these companies located in France into a single company, Seppic SA. 

With this transaction, Seppic is creating a streamlined organization designed to improve the customer experience, support growth and continue to expand into multiple markets around the world.

Ren Clean Skincare appoints new CEO

 Ren Clean Skincare appoints a new CEO to drive growth and lead the next phase of the brand's -Clean to Planet- positioning. 

Ren Clean Skincare has announced the appointment of Michelle Brett as CEO of the British brand. An experienced executive, Michelle took up her post on January 4, 2022. 
Prior to her new role, Michelle Brett held senior positions within the Living Proof brand, where she demonstrated strong global expertise in both retail and professional channels, as well as solid relationships with strategic customers that enabled the brand to achieve exceptional growth. Ren Clean Skincare and Living Proof are both owned by Unilever Prestige. 

"Adopting such bold sustainability initiatives requires courage and tenacity, and I've seen what a passionate and determined leader Michelle Brett is who will take on challenges with a determination to succeed. I look forward to the next stage of REN's ambitious journey to zero waste and know that it is in incredibly safe hands under Michelle's leadership."said Vasiliki Petrou, Executive Vice President, Unilever Prestige. 

New General Manager Michelle Brett said: "I'm extremely excited to be joining Ren Clean Skincare. I'm looking forward to working with the teams to contribute to the company's global growth and pursue the next phase of Clean to Planet, Clean to Skin positioning. Highly effective formulas combined with zero waste commitment, now more than ever, are proving their relevance and importance to consumers and the planet." 

Ren's new appointment comes as the brand has successfully delivered on its zero waste promise to the end of 2021. Ren's packaging is now 100% recycled, recyclable or reusable, and this first step has recycled 45 tons of plastic by reusing plastic waste from landfills, and prevented 16 tons of plastic from entering landfills by designing packaging to comply with global recycling guidelines. The brand also stopped using single-use sachets, enlisted the help of Infinity Recycling and developed aluminum tube samples - a world first. 

TNT Global Manufacturing: a royal hood!

TNT Global Manufacturing designs, develops and manufactures high-end components in metal - zamak, aluminum, brass, stainless steel - and plastic for the perfume and cosmetics industry such as: covers, shields, plates, boxes, cases or cosmetic applicator components

The company created the delicate and flowery cover of Michel Germain's royal collection, "transcending" the delicacy of the lily flowers integrated in a round shape in zamak delicately hollowed out and ventilated. 

TNT Global Manufacturing's teams also met the challenge of demolding the part, thanks to their technical and innovative know-how.

Award-winning perfumer Michel Germain creates luxury fragrances that invite seduction using beautiful natural oils. Internationally known for their natural oils, his fragrances invite closeness, give style and inspire love. It is this personality of Michel Germain perfumes that has led them to the top of the perfume world and into a niche of their own.

Axilone takes control of Anewcos

Axilone Group, a major player in the design and manufacture of primary packaging for skincare, perfume and make-up, announced the acquisition of Anewcos, an innovative player in the formulation and filling of cosmetic products, based in China.

Founded in 2011 in Suzhou (Jiangsu province, China) Anewcos employs about 120 people, on a 13,000 sqm site. Anewcos provides, for major Chinese brands, the formulation, development and filling of beauty products. The company specializes in skincare products, as well as in powder and foundation products. Flexible and reactive, Anewcos has developed a complete portfolio of innovative and proprietary formulas, recognized by major Chinese brands.

The acquisition of Anewcos gives the Axilone group the opportunity to accelerate its growth, particularly with Chinese brands, by offering them complete 'turnkey' solutions and to diversify its product portfolio beyond its traditional businesses. Anewcos' expertise in formulation will enable Axilone to increase its capacity for innovation and development of tomorrow's packaging solutions.

By joining the Axilone Group, Anewcos will benefit from its exposure to major international brands, while strengthening its innovation and production capabilities.

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