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Texen and Roctool: a confirmed collaboration

Roctool Beauty Solution brings an eco-design solution to beauty packaging, focusing in particular on the sublimation of recycled or biosourced resins. By controlling mold temperature via induction, this technological innovation optimizes material flow to produce all kinds of complex parts, including ultra-thin thicknesses. It enables surface quality to be controlled by erasing appearance defects (injection points, weld lines, shrinkage, etc.), and to obtain glossy, matt or textured surfaces, even eliminating certain finishing operations such as varnishing. 

Just over a year ago, Texen and Roctool signed a collaboration agreement to jointly support Texen customers in their ecological transition through a complementary value proposition. Today, the collaboration is intensifying as part of a proactive approach. Texen has just launched its first production run and is investing more heavily in new Roctool production systems under its BESST* Transform brand. 

At the origin of this non-exclusive partnership, the two players are committed to clearly identified strategic challenges. On the one hand, Texen, whose mission is to transform matter into experience in a virtuous way; on the other, Roctool, whose technological innovation brings real opportunities in the transformation and sublimation of new-generation materials.

Delivering on market commitments

Following the installation of the first Roctool equipment in 2020, Texen is stepping up deployment of the technology across its French industrial estate. Several of its production lines are now equipped with new Roctool systems. With the aim of offering a co-development force to its customers, the Texen lab, equipped since early 2021, thus offers resources that can address the intersecting challenges of sustainable design, competitiveness and Brand Equity. 

In just one year, this partnership approach resulted in the first ultra-premium development in 100 % recycled resin, the first step towards an iconic make-up range for which the brand has chosen PCR resins.

*BESST: Beauty + Experience + Sensation + Surface by Texen

The perfume of the French Pavilion created by Dominique Ropion, master perfumer at IFF

The French Pavilion at the Dubai World Expo has IFF, the world's leading fragrance creation specialist, as an associate partner. This partnership means that Dominique Ropion, master perfumer at IFF, will create the perfume for the French Pavilion, which will be sold in the official pavilion boutique.

From Givenchy to Thierry Mugler, from Lancôme to Dior, YSL, Frédéric Malle and many others, Dominique Ropion is one of the prolific artists of French perfumery. His creativity, his mastery of his art, and his sensitivity have allowed him to create iconic perfumes, symbols throughout the world of luxury and the French art of living.

"Perfume is one of the many French skills of excellence. This perfume, specially created by Dominique Ropion, will allow visitors to leave with an important sensory relay, which will prolong the experience for a long time.This is the first time that the French government has taken the lead in this area," says Erik Linquier, General Commissioner for France at the Dubai World Expo and President of Cofrex (Compagnie française des expositions).

The perfume of the Pavilion is produced at the IFF perfumer's workshop in Grasse, the historic birthplace of French perfumery. Weighed by hand according to the tradition of haute-parfumerie, by operators who are heirs to this craft, it embodies the excellence of perfumery know-how: creation, exceptional raw materials, high quality craftsmanship.

"It is a great honor for me to have created this ambiance perfume to accompany each visitor of the French Pavilion with an invisible luxury".says Dominique Ropion. 

The fragrance of Pavillon France is a floral, luminous bouquet, in the image of Pavillon France, an immersion in the iconic raw materials of fine perfumery: blackcurrant buds from Burgundy and Indian jasmine (both certified "For Life" by Ecocert, guaranteeing their sustainability), narcissus from Lozère, cypress and lavandin from Provence

As the first World Expo to be held in the Measa region (Africa, Middle East and South Asia), Expo 2020 Dubai will focus on the theme "Connecting Minds, Building the Future. Bringing together more than 200 participants from a variety of countries, organizations, companies and academic institutions, Expo 2020 Dubai expects 25 million visits between October 1, 2021 and March 31, 2022.

Polaar and Creapharm Cosmetics, a long-term partnership

This summer, Polaar launched its new Men range.

In their quest for natural, effective skincare products, Polaar has once again entrusted Creapharm Cosmetics with the formulation, manufacture and packaging of their new product. Following on from the success of their best-selling Nuit Polaire cream, Polaar remains loyal to Creapharm for the development of this new skincare product: Déo du Trappeur.

"Over and above the Made in France concept, which is very important to us, it was the sensoriality and efficacy of Creapharm Cosmetics products that won us over back in 2011," emphasizes R&D manager Mégane Dumont, Purchasing Manager at Polaar.

Creapharm supported Polaar in the tailor-made development of its men's deodorant: a formula pre-developed in its R&D laboratory, to which Polaar added its flagship active ingredient, Arctic Lichen. These large sticks were then manufactured and packaged by hot-casting on Creapharm Cosmetics lines.

This solid deodorant is a real co-creation: a vegan formula (without ingredients of animal origin) with over 99 % of ingredients of natural origin. The result: a skincare product combining effectiveness and sensoriality, according to Creapharm Cosmetics, "that should delight their male customers!"

"It's this combination of expertise that regularly gives rise to new Polaar products. Creapharm Cosmetics knows how to rise to the industrial challenge, and offers us real support. A guarantee of the quality of our finished products!" concludes Mégane Dumont, R&D, Purchasing Manager at Polaar.

Labexan obtains the "innovation tax credit" approval

Labexan, a laboratory specializing in physico-chemical and microbiological analyses for cosmetics and dietary supplements, obtains "innovation tax credit" (CII)* approval and renewal of "research tax credit" approval for the period 2021-2025. Labexan has been a preferred partner of cosmetics and dietary supplements manufacturers and brands for 10 years.

Labexan is recognized for the reliability and quality of its advice and services, in line with market trends. It now assays products containing hemp extracts - CBD, THC and other cannabinoids - for preservatives, sun filters, vitamins, trace elements and active ingredients, heavy metals and allergens. Challenge tests, stability and compatibility studies, as well as container/content interactions, are also part of our expertise.

Founder and CEO Philippe Chenevier, formerly Technical R&D Director at Pierre Fabre - Dermo-Cosmetics, has surrounded himself with a young, committed team of 14 people at both laboratories. The last 10 years have been marked by continuous growth, necessitating a move to new, completely renovated premises. Featuring modern, high-performance equipment, they offer a pleasant and attractive working environment.

"The CIR and CII approvals confirm our mission to support the development and control of cosmetics and dietary supplements. We strive to provide our customers with all the solutions they need, in a responsive and agile way. Their satisfaction rewards our efforts over the last 10 years to become a benchmark laboratory.says Philippe Chenevier, CEO of Labexan.

*The innovation tax credit is a tax measure reserved for SMEs. SMEs can benefit from a tax credit of 20 % of the expenditure required to design prototypes or pilot plants for new products.

Symrise signs the Kyoto perfume for Diptyque

For its 60th anniversary, diptyque proposes to explore the world in order to gather its treasures. A singular cultural journey, faithful to the spirit of the House and the aesthetic vision of its founding designers, in the form of a great limited edition journey. Among the stops it celebrates is the city of Kyoto in Japan, a city of art and history and the birthplace of ikebana. 

More than ten thousand kilometers east of France, Japan was an unknown but dreamy destination for the founding trio of diptych, whose aesthetic was a source of multiple inspiration. Inspired by the codes of ikebana, this age-old floral art that values the vase, stems, leaves and branches as much as the flower itself, perfumer Alexandra Carlin has imagined a fragrance with a subtle balance of incense, rose and vetiver. Draped in the Furoshiki technique with a Sarayi floral printed fabric, the bottle that encloses it is tinted with a color between pink and purple. 

Alexandra Carlin has a literary soul and is fascinated by words. Their evocative power and the emotional charge they carry are in perfect harmony with her vocation as a perfumer. Creating a perfume is like telling a story... Finding the perfect match that will touch the heart of others. His natural artistic sensitivity and imagination are always his source of creativity. A poetic expression, the creations of a great pastry chef or a trip to the other side of the world... With her nose and her imagination always on the alert, Alexandra nourishes her profession with her eclectic influences. 

This perfume is a triptych built by inspiring me of the three pillars of the art of ikebana: earth, heart, sky. At the top, incense, a nod to the scrolls diffused in the temples at the time when ikebana was practiced by priests. Then all in verticality, the essence of Turkish rose pricked with rose oxide brings a raw vegetality. In the background, in the image of the Wabi-Sabi philosophy which advocates the beauty of imperfect things, I worked a note of beet with all its sour, earthy and sweet asperities. A short, readable and uncluttered formula, as is the tradition " Alexandra Carlin.

Pharmatech Cosmetech: new products on the agenda!

For the third year running, Pharmatech Cosmetech (formerly PharmaCosmetech) will be taking over the heart of Cosmetic Valley for three days of exhibitions, on September 14, 15 and 16, 2021. Ideally located in Chartres, the show also benefits from natural proximity to numerous French pharmaceutical production sites grouped around Polepharma, Europe's leading pharmaceutical cluster.

At a time when innovation and changes in usage are accelerating in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries, Pharmatech Cosmetech will report on the latest advances in these fields: automation, traceability, safety, eco-solutions, industry of the future...

More than 200 exhibitors will be on hand to provide concrete answers to visitors' questions, who will also be able to discover specific trails (new products, eco-solutions, factory of the future), events and conferences.

The novelty trail

Bringing together all the latest technological innovations, a dedicated trail will enable specifiers and operational decision-makers from the pharmaceutical, cosmetics, chemical and biological industries to discover and learn more about their future production equipment.

At a time when hygiene is of prime importance, especially in the health and beauty sectors, a number of solutions will be proposed to prevent contamination and improve decontamination during product packaging.

Other services will also be highlighted, such as :

- robotization and automation of manufacturing processes, such as the management and handling of very small quantities of powder or liquid,

- traceability and security of production stages (predictive maintenance, remote monitoring of key operating criteria, etc.),

- energy monitoring and environmentally-friendly packaging solutions.

Alongside the new products route, two other visitor routes will also be clearly identified:

- the eco-solutions track, where you can meet experts in environmental transition and the circular economy,

- the factory of the future track, offering solutions in the fields of big data, robotization, IO, cybersecurity, virtual and augmented reality, and additive manufacturing.

Events, conferences and business meetings

In order to offer a top-quality event, the show has made sure to reach out to the entire profession, and is expecting pharmacists, maintenance, technical, QHSE, new works, logistics, design/methods offices, formulation, laboratory managers...

Numerous events, machine demonstrations, presentations of new products and experience feedback will round out the technological offering, enabling everyone to find solutions tailored to their needs.

Visitors will be able to set up business meetings with the exhibitors of their choice, to turn their plans into reality and create commercial partnerships.

A program of technical conferences, with targeted themes: Deep learning, artificial intelligence, augmented reality, automation, eco-responsibility, data IOT..., will also be available to visitors.

[podcast] Wouldn't the best allies of cosmeticians be their suppliers?

site-industries-cosmetiques The end of sleepless nights, podcasts

Season 2 of "La fin des nuits blanches" (The end of sleepless nights), the show that helps you in your daily life as a cosmetician, brought to you by Veeva.

In this episode, specialist David Égée continues to answer Nicolas Gosse's questions. David Égée, with solid experience in the cosmetics sector, is currently Strategy Director, in charge of the cosmetics business for Veeva. David has a wealth of experience

In this episode, we ask whether cosmeticians' best allies are their suppliers. Does working with these suppliers contribute to product quality and meet consumer expectations?

In other episodes, we'll be talking about speed and regulatory constraints...

Listen now on our website or on all your podcast platforms.

Givaudan continues to expand its fragrance production capacity

Givaudan Parfums et Beauté has announced an investment of 75 million Swiss francs in a further expansion of its fragrance production site in Pedro Escobedo, Mexico, to further support its growth in Latin America across all customer segments. In line with the company's 2025 strategy - "Growth as our goal, driven by our raison d'être" - Latin America remains a key growth market for innovative, consumer-preferred fragrance products.

The new factory extension, scheduled to open at the end of 2023, will be optimally automated, including the logistics part, ensuring high precision and efficiency. The site extension will be designed to promote agility, in order to produce both small and traditional high volumes to meet the needs of all customer segments, from local and regional to international customers.

With Givaudan's raison d'être as its cornerstone, the new site will contribute to Givaudan's ambitious climate action program. It will also meet the highest global and local environmental, health and safety standards.

Maurizio Volpi, President of Perfumes and Beauty, said: "Investing in our production facility in Mexico, which represents an important high-growth market for Givaudan, demonstrates our commitment to our customers and is fully in line with our 2025 strategy and raison d'être. This investment will strengthen our position as a strategic partner to our customers in the region and respond to growing consumer demand for high-quality, sustainable fragrances."

Mauro Patrus, head of functional fragrances for Latin America: "The expansion of our production capacity builds on our existing Pedro Escobedo site, which has been successfully meeting customer needs for many years. This will help us further consolidate our already strong position in Latin America."

Lucia Lisboa, head of fine fragrances for Latin America, added: "Thanks to this investment, we will be even better positioned to offer our customers in the region a complete end-to-end solution for the creation, development and production of fragrances that appeal to consumers."

Oriflame chooses Albéa's Greenleaf technology for its oral care range

Oriflame's "Optifresh" line now offers five ready-to-recycle high-density polyethylene (HDPE) toothpaste tubes with screw caps using patented Greenleaf 2 tube technology. Even with a thinner laminate sheet and up to 20 % less virgin plastic in the sleeve, this unique technology provides maximum protection from light, oxygen and moisture while saving energy.

"Oriflame is synonymous with environmentally friendly products in terms of both formulations and materials and packaging, says Wyn Thomas, Packaging Category Manager at Oriflame. Greenleaf tubes are perfectly aligned with our company philosophy and help us reduce environmental impact and improve circularity while providing the best customer experience."

Greenleaf 2 tube technology allows tubes to be recyclable wherever local collection programs are available. Generation 2 pipes are recognized by the Association of Plastic Recyclers (APR) in North America, and by RecyClass and SUEZ.circpack in Europe. These certifications confirm that they can be recycled within existing HDPE bottle recycling streams.

"We are proud to support Oriflame in its commitment to sustainability, while pursuing our own goals of achieving 100 % recyclable or reusable packaging by 2025."says Gilles Swyngedauw, Vice President Sustainable Development & Innovation at Albea.

Epiloderm launches its moisturizing face & body cream with prebiotics

Founded in 2007, Epiloderm is recognized for its expertise in hair removal with its patented "Epiloderm method", combined with plant-derived waxes and the Epiloderm X pulsed-light device. The brand also offers photorejuvenation and a full range of moisturizers, serums and scrubs.

Its latest innovation is a face & body moisturizer with prebiotics: Epiloderm Velours whipped cream. This formula, composed of 95 % of natural ingredients, takes full advantage of the benefits of prebiotics, which help maintain and rebalance the skin's microbiome, while reinforcing the epidermal barrier.

Two powerful active ingredients: marine biotechnology and prebiotics

Epiloderm Velours maintains the skin's protective microbiota thanks to the synergy of two active ingredients.

The prebiotic BioEcolia (Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide), obtained by enzymatic synthesis of natural sugars, rebalances the bacterial landscape and fortifies the skin's microbiological barrier:

  • Preserves and maintains the skin's ecosystem
  • Reinforces the skin's natural defences 
  • Protects skin flora from pollutant particles

Composed of 95 % ingredients of natural origin, Velours skincare has a neutral fragrance, making it suitable for both women and men. Its whipped texture enhances penetration of active ingredients and deep hydration, leaving the skin feeling velvety soft.

Marine biotechnology (Gigartina Stellata Extract), 100 % of natural origin, is derived from a red algae found on the rocky shores of Europe's Atlantic coast, which helps maintain skin's youthful appearance:

  • Enables cell regeneration 
  • Powerful moisturizing active ingredient 
  • Captures free radicals: antioxidant and anti-aging

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