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Robertet: majority stake in Astier Demarest

Robertet has announced the acquisition of a majority stake in Astier Demarest. Founded in 1880, Astier Demarest is a historic family-owned company based in Grasse, specializing in the sourcing and distribution of raw materials for the perfume, cosmetics, aromatherapy and food flavoring industries.

This investment is designed to strengthen the Group's position in aromatic ingredients and in the sustainable sourcing of natural products, with an increased presence at source in certain strategic supply chains.

François and Bruno Destoumieux will continue in their role as general managers, with the support of the Group to help them develop sustainable supply chains and enrich their distribution with Robertet's range of natural and organic ingredients.

"We are proud to welcome Astier Demarest to the Robertet family, and excited at the prospect of combining the strengths of both organizations to better meet the growing needs for traceability and transparency. This acquisition will enable us to consolidate our leadership in natural ingredients and develop ambitious projects for the future".says Julien Maubert, Director of Robertet's Raw Materials Division.

"Astier Demarest is looking forward to the next chapter in its history as part of the Robertet Group. The complementarity of this combination is evident in the family nature of our companies, but also in our shared vision of integrated and sustainable sourcing of natural ingredients."says François Destoumieux, President of Astier Demarest.

in-cosmetics Global Barcelona cancelled

in-cosmetics Global and Asia are now scheduled for 2022, while in-cosmetics Latin America has been postponed to November 2021. 

Reed Exhibitions announced that in-cosmetics Global and in-cosmetics Asia have been postponed. in-cosmetics Global Barcelona, which was scheduled to take place in early October, has been canceled to make way for in-cosmetics Global Paris, which will be held April 5-7, 2022. in-cosmetics Asia will be held November 1-3, 2022, in Bangkok. in-cosmetics Latin America, which was scheduled to take place in Sao Paulo, Brazil, September 22-23, 2021, has been postponed to November 10-11.

The decision to reschedule the global and regional event is due to ongoing travel restrictions due to the pandemic.

Roziani Zulkifli, director of in-cosmetics Global, said: "Despite the events that are currently unfolding, we must consider the international nature of in-cosmetics Global. We have seen positive signs in recent months with successes in the rollout of the vaccine program, but new variants have created increased uncertainty and steady progress is not the case everywhere. We have been in constant contact with exhibitors and visitors, and it is clear that the level of confidence to travel and attend large international B2B shows in the cosmetics industry is not yet there. Our primary goal is to meet the expectations of our exhibitors and visitors, and we believe that will be the case in 2022."

Sarah Gibson, director of the in-cosmetics Asia exhibition, for her part explained: "Covid cases in Thailand are increasing, with Bangkok and neighboring provinces placed in the dark red zone of maximum restrictions to curb the spread of infection. New cases of the Delta variant are increasing across Asia, with widespread travel bans and further tightening of government traffic measures. We believe the most responsible decision at this point is to allow time for Thailand and the Asean region to recover and, once safety is assured, to bring the Asian cosmetic community back together in 2022."

Daniel Zanetti, director of in-cosmetics Latin America, commented: "After monitoring the coronavirus situation in Brazil, we decided to postpone our Latin America show until November, which will give the country's vaccination program an additional seven weeks to build immunity. This was a difficult decision to make, as we recognize the importance of the event to the region's personal care industry and the demand for face-to-face contact. However, we believe this is the best solution for all parties involved to ensure a quality trade event for our exhibitors and attendees."

Have a good vacation!

The entire team ofIndustries Cosmétiques wishes you a good vacation!

Our website is taking a break for a few weeks. We look forward to seeing you at the beginning of the new school year: the right time to meet at the various perfumery and cosmetics events that will take place!

If you are really in need of information on these subjects, take advantage of the summer to consult our expert opinion or for listen again to our podcasts !

Thank you again for your support throughout the season. Now it's time for the vacations!

Industries Cosmétiques

Tahiti arrives at the hotel

site-industries-cosmetiques A bottle of sunscreen and a straw hat on a Tahitian beach.

Because it is important to protect your skin throughout the day, Hei Poa (Gilbert Laboratories) launches an exclusive line of hotel products in collaboration with GM Group. Thanks to this partnership, it is now possible to offer hotel guests sun care products rich in monoi, with notes of tiare flower.

Authenticity, sensoriality, escape and tradition: the core values of the Hei Poa brand are reflected in its seductive line of hospitality products. Practical and easy to use, the new range consists of a sun lotion SPF30 with monoi, guaranteeing high protection of the skin against UVA/UVB rays, as well as a milky after-sun spray with Tahitian monoi and aloe vera, to durably soothe and comfort the skin after a day of exposure. Pure Tahitian Monoi AO completes the range, providing daily hydration* and adding a touch of luxury to this cosmetic experience.

Traditionally used by Tahitians, monoi is a natural oil extracted from the pulp of the coconut, in which fresh tiare flowers have been macerated.

YouTube video

Monoi is mainly used for massage, but also for skin and hair care. It is known for its moisturizing and skin nourishing properties. Each of these three products is distinguished by its unique fragrance, inspired by the beauty rituals of French Polynesia. With refreshing notes of tiare flower, orange blossom and coconut, the exoticism of the Hei Poa sun milk is enhanced by powdery notes of vanilla. The after-sun milk, meanwhile, offers revitalizing top notes of freesia and coconut water, accompanied by heart notes of vanilla, jasmine, neroli, frangipani, tiare and ylang-ylang. The range is completed by the fragrance of pure Tahitian monoi AO, a blend of white flower, ylang-ylang, orange blossom, heliotrope, vanilla and coconut scents that takes the senses on a journey to the idyllic islands of French Polynesia.

The Monoi sun lotion and the after-sun milk spray are available in 40 ml bottles while the pure Tahitian Monoi AO is available in 30 ml bottles. Laurent Marchand, President of GM Group, said " We are thrilled to launch this great line of hospitality products with Hei Poa, an authentic and innovative brand that has been a part of French life for 45 years. Inspired by the treasures of nature, Hei Poa is a perfect fit with GM Group's values. We look forward to distributing this new product line to hotels around the world. ".

Upon opening the bottles, the journey is immediate. The traditional scents of monoi invade the room, and wherever you are, you are actually on the beach! The solar milk is rich, with a greasy feeling, but is easily sprayed. We just regret that the product in 30 ml is proposed today in SPF30 only. The after-sun spray is more delicate and fresher. It can be sprayed on just as easily to soothe areas reddened by the sun. Finally, pure Tahitian monoi is true to its reputation and expectations. A recognizable fragrance and maximum coverage. Have a great vacation!

N.G.

*Hydration of the superficial layers of the epidermis.

Camellia Oil Cleanser

site-industries-cosmetiques A white flower with a bottle of camellia oil make-up remover next to it.

Bernard Cassière has designed a new range of make-up remover imagined. Inclusive by nature, the brand from the world of beauty salons wanted its 6 sensory formulas to meet the expectations of everyone, regardless of their skin type. Even the most delicate skin types can use these products (all tested under dermatological and ophthalmological control on a panel of 100 % sensitive skin), which strike a balance between formulas with a high content of natural ingredients and effectiveness in removing makeup and impurities accumulated throughout the day.

More than just make-up removers, they are real pre-care products, each based on the power of camellia extract, obtained from the leaves and flowers of Camellia japonica. This active ingredient is distinguished by its richness in phenolic compounds, oligo and polysaccharides, amino acids and proteins that give this flower a repairing, antioxidant, soothing or astringent power. If the simple fact of proceeding daily to a make-up removal in good and due form constitutes de facto one of the essential keys to regaining a beautiful skin, this is even more true when the said cleansing is carried out with these care products offering gentle galenics and active formulas. Balm, oil, milk or even micellar water, the variety of textures will allow you to find the one that will bring the most pleasure to the application.

Focus on oil

For a long time, combination skin with a tendency to be oily did not use makeup remover oil, believing that its texture would only make their skin balance even more difficult to control. On the contrary, this galenic is ideal for removing impurities and excess sebum while leaving the skin soft and comfortable, without tightness. It is in any case the performance signed by this new oil which is surprisingly fluid and easy to rinse. Ideal for a fast make-up removal of the face and the eyes, its effectiveness was tested on the sensitive skins to which it is appropriate perfectly. It contains 90 % of natural ingredients and combines Japanese Camellia extract and balancing Jojoba oil. To take full advantage of its benefits, simply warm the oil in the palm of your hands before massaging in circular movements on dry skin, gently of course so as not to "crease" the skin tissue. We then add a little water to operate a final transformation oil in milk before rinsing with warm water.

When used, the successive operations are very pleasant and leave your skin clean and silky. A success!

N.G.

Coty and Everie: together to reinvent the perfume test

Coty has announced the launch of a digitally-controlled non-contact fragrance tester for use by beauty retailers over the next 12 months. Live testing of the units in retail stores begins this month in key European markets, followed by a trial planned for Asia later this year.

Coty's contactless fragrance tester is a digital innovation that gives customers ultimate control over in-store fragrance discovery. While sprays saturate the air, overwhelming the senses and the environment, this device delivers a single droplet of liquid directly onto an arm or blotter, offering customers a less invasive testing experience. It also uses data to enable Coty, in partnership with retailers, to optimize the location of testers and the customer experience, ensuring that beauty advisors are on hand when needed.

Coty has joined forces with Greenhousea French start-up specializing in smart devices, microdosing and dispensing technologies, to bring Coty's contactless fragrance tester to life. A multidisciplinary group from Coty worked alongside Êverie over the past year to develop a connected, easy-to-maintain and durable device. This contactless fragrance tester is capable of running for weeks without recharging the battery, and reduces fragrance loss compared to traditional testers. It will be compatible with all Coty fragrance testers and can be uniquely customized for each Coty brand.

Claire Catherine-Mercier, Vice President, Retail Experience, said: " Coty's contactless fragrance tester is a revolutionary innovation developed in partnership with Êverie. With the return of in-person shopping, the health and safety of our consumers is always at the forefront of our concerns. Deploying a single drop of liquid on the skin with the same restitution as traditional testers, this new technology eliminates unnecessary waste and offers a safe, non-contact alternative for testing. "

Find out more about new forms of product testing, consult our dossier published in the June issue of our magazine...

Polaar Men: polar assets

site-industries-cosmetiques Various products on a wooden table, including Polaar Men with polar active ingredients.

The story of Polaar takes the form of a family saga whose origins lie in the snowy scenery of the most remote regions of the world

From the Arctic to the Antarctic, alongside his polar explorer parents, Daniel Kurbiel, founder, discovers the ability of arctic plants to survive in extreme conditions.

Its vision is to create skincare products based on polar active ingredients that are sensorial, respectful of all skin types and have a minimum impact on the planet. Polaar develops products with a gentle composition and collaborates since the beginning with the most important scientific organizations to preserve it.

Because men do not have the same skin types or the same needs, the brand has created a complete range (Polaar Men) composed of 6 care products made in France. They are made of polar active ingredients up to 100 % of natural origin.

Unprecedented ingredients

The brand insists on the particular sourcing of its assets. For example, the polar peptide to revitalize and strengthen the skin's barrier found in its anti-aging care. Red algae are able to survive extreme conditions and develop an arctic peptide that strengthens the skin's barrier, optimizes cell regeneration, natural hydration and collagen production.

The Siberian ginseng for its part is used to tone and revitalize and is found in the eye contour care. This root grows in the undergrowth of the great expanses of the Tundra. More concentrated in micronutrients, ginseng stimulates the body to increase its resistance and vitality. Its extract comes from a controlled culture intended to preserve the rare purity of its environment.

Still in Siberia, the olive tree is used to regenerate and fight against free radicals. It is used in the formula of the cream of the extreme. Each small berry of this shrub contains more than 108 natural active elements including an unequalled concentration of vitamins: 30 times more
vitamin C than a single orange! It is an ally in the fight against free radicals, photoaging and dehydration.

The Arctic lichen is present both in the soapthe deodorant and shower gel . This small bushy shrub is able to resist to strong droughts and great temperature variations (70º). Thanks to its antimicrobial and immuno-stimulating properties, it helps to detoxify and purify the cells of the epidermis.

And in use?

The message carried by the range is flattering, transforming each consumer into an extreme adventurer, while taking care of the planet. The speech is consistent with the production and packaging in recycled and recyclable cardboard, from sustainably managed forests. The interior of the packaging includes a map of the poles to really transport you to the expedition!

The skincare products are pleasant to apply and last throughout the day.
The all-in-one soap (body, face, hair) is also effective. And it's easy to imagine yourself in your bathroom in the middle of a polar mission, having to reduce your load and having had the good idea to find a multi-purpose cosmetic. As often with this kind of products, the feeling left on the hair is not as silky as with a classic shampoo.
The deodorant for its part is not as successful as the rest of the range. The effectiveness is not there for the agitated situations. The application of the stick frankly lacks slipperiness and can even be unpleasant...

In summary, this new brand uses a universe not common to men's cosmetics and bets on innovative and new active ingredients. Despite the drawback concerning its "trapper's deo", it is a great success to be praised.

N.G.

Unilever chooses Paula's Choice

Unilever has signed an agreement to acquire the skincare brand Paula's Choicea leader in the digital market, with TA Associates. Paula's Choice is a pioneer in scientific products and direct-to-consumer e-commerce.

Founded by Paula Begoun in 1995, the brand is famous for its cutting-edge innovation, accessible and jargon-free science, high-performance ingredients and products cruaulty free.

Paula's Choice offers powerful content and digital tools to demystify the science behind skincare, including a Ingredients dictionary that breaks down the search behind nearly 4,000 ingredients, and Expert Advicean online knowledge center for skincare and ingredients.

Vasiliki Petrou, EVP and CEO Prestige at Unilever, said: " We are delighted that Paula's Choice is joining the Unilever Prestige family. Paula's Choice is a true pioneer in the digital beauty space, and has created a mission-driven brand rooted in truth and transparency. We look forward to introducing the brand and its iconic products to an even wider audience.. "

Paula Begoun, founder, said: " I'm delighted that Unilever and Paula's Choice are joining forces, and I'd like to thank Vasiliki and the Unilever team for believing in us, our mission and our values. With Unilever, we can build on our work and vision that spans 26 years of creating exceptional products, and giving people the confidence to know that they are taking the best possible care of their skin. "

Jeffrey Barber, Managing Director of TA, said: " We're proud to have played a part in the story of Paula's Choice's growth into a leading global direct-to-consumer skincare brand. We look forward to seeing what the company can achieve in partnership with Unilever. "

The brand is distributed through a worldwide network of direct distribution and selected prestige retailers in North America, Europe and Asia. Terms of the agreement were not disclosed. The transaction is expected to close in the third quarter of 2021.

Panier des sens: a range for men

site-industries-cosmetiques L'Occitane eau de toilette collection for men.

Panier des Sens was created in 2001 in the heart of Provence. Inspired by Mediterranean ingredients and know-how, the brand uses the best of its region to develop natural, simple and authentic products. Dedicated to men, these all-in-one universal face and body care products are composed of 96 % to 100 % of naturally derived ingredients. Tested under dermatological control, they combine the moisturizing and repairing power of organic olive oil from Provence with a unique complex of active ingredients to combine naturalness and effectiveness. 

In terms of packaging, the brand is also focusing on recycled packaging, without sacrificing perceived quality and the brand's high-end positioning. The packaging of bestsellers such as 500 ml liquid soaps or 75 ml hand creams become 100 % recycled. The brand announces the use of nearly 13 tons of recycled virgin plastic and 78 % of recycled alumunium.

But on the use side, do we find all these promises in the products?

The packaging is a real success. Nothing too much. Nothing cheap. The black and gold aesthetic and the "antique" side of the products asserts well that the target is male. And chic.

In terms of products, we were able to test a moisturizing cream which achieves a faultless performance. The quality of the hydration is sufficient. The application is fluid. The delicate fragrance allows to wear a perfume in addition to the cream. A real success composed notably of olive oil and ingredients extracted from prickly pear trees.

We also tested the natural deodorant. There again, the packaging commits the brand to a qualitative path. The application is also very fluid thanks to an effective roll-on. The formula is composed of olive oil, prickly pear extract, bamboo powder and bisabolol to soothe sensitive skin. But effectiveness? This is where this natural deodorant shows its weaknesses. The application is very pleasant, the feeling of freshness immediate. But does not last long. And the product quickly fades to be no longer effective at all. To be reserved for calm situations...

N.G.

Show: Special Edition by Luxe Pack opens at the end of summer

site-industries-cosmetiques The Eco-luxe by Luxe Pack trade show opens its doors at the end of summer.

August 31 and August 1er In September, the second edition of Édition Spéciale by Luxe Pack will open its doors at the Carreau du Temple in Paris.

This unique event brings together all eco-designed packaging solutions in a single location.

This event will welcome 65 exhibitors selected for their know-how and expertise in eco-design of sustainable packaging, and will have a program entirely built with brands committed to sustainable development.

Once again this year, the show offers a balance between original exhibitor offerings and top-notch content, with feedback from numerous experts.

Several new features in 2021: start-up pitch sessions will enrich the conference program plenary sessions. They will give the floor to young companies who have decided to draw inspiration from the living world or reinvent existing materials to help brands reduce their environmental impact on a daily basis. With personalized consulting and inspiring exhibition space, this year's event promises to be a highly productive reunion for all those involved in luxury packaging.

Pitch party: innovative materials

They will have 10 minutes to convince :

  • GREEN GEN TECHNOLOGIES combines plant fibers with bio-based resins in unique eco-responsible containers.
  • AUTHENTIC MATERIAL designs materials based on natural elements - including horn, shell, wood and leather... - for applications including luxury goods.
  • CARBIOLICE develops plant-based plastic solutions that are biodegradable, compostable and environmentally friendly.
  • GREENFIB has developed a 100 % biosourced material, based on a castor oil derivative with added vegetable flours and mineral powders.
  • LE PAVÉ is an eco-design material made from plastic waste. It comes in sheets that can be worked like wood.
  • KAIROS has developed Kairlin, an innovative and elegant biocomposite material made from flax fibers and 100 % plant-based components.
  • FIL&FAB launches Nylo material a granulated 100 % recycled fishing nets.
  • SINTERMAT industrializes an innovative powder metallurgy process called Flash sintering (or SPS sintering), which enables the design of augmented materials from metal, composite and natural powders.

Personalized coaching with Citeo

Édition Spéciale by Luxe Pack is also a show on a human scale, where visitors leave with advice tailored to their specific needs. That's why a team of experts from Citeo will be on hand during the show to answer visitors' questions on sorting, reuse, recycling and eco-design of luxury packaging.
From evaluation to innovation, Citeo will offer each brand individual consulting to help them make the right choices at every stage of the eco-design process, and find high-performance environmental solutions.

Singular objects in recycled materials with Object cuttings

Visitors will also discover an exhibition of objects conceived as a nursery of creations, experimenting with new processes. Materials with new aesthetics created from an abundant resource: our waste.

Special Edition highlights

Exhibitor/brand feedback sessions

Because there's nothing more effective than examples and actions, manufacturer/brand pairs will be brought together to present concrete examples of products already on the market or under development on the following themes:

Design: with Verescence and Bvlgari
Recycling: with International Direct Packaging and Citeo
Natural materials: with Century Box and La Spiritueuse & with Estal and La Maison Pepins
Reduction: with Bormioli Luigi and Diptyque
Reuse: with Envases and DIOR

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