An investment of €20 million has enabled the Masnières site (59) to modernize and diversify. New furnace, new hybrid line, new automatic equipment, everything pushes the glassmaker to go further, faster. Perfumery and cosmetics are still a major part of the plant, but spirits are making their entrance.
Explanations by Etienne Gruyez, CEO of Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie. Listen to the podcast below and read the interview in the magazine Industries Cosmétiques June 2021.
Givaudan announces that it has acquired 25 % of the shares of b.kolormakeup & skincare, an innovative Italian company specializing in the end-to-end development and production of makeup and skincare products for customers in the consumer packaged goods and luxury sectors. By joining forces, Givaudan Perfumes & Beauty and b.kolor will leverage their respective capabilities to provide customers with creative and unique products and integrated solutions.
Founded in 2000, b.kolor is headquartered near Milan (Italy) and employs about 250 people. Its employees are recognized experts in the fields of industrial formulation design, focusing on innovation and sensory benefits combined with technical performance. They are involved in all phases of the creative process for make-up and skincare products, from idea generation and translation into cosmetic formulas, to innovative device design and final product manufacturing. They design approximately 250 new products each year, offering their clients ready-made products for consumers' favorite brands.
b.kolor will provide Givaudan with value-added solutions for its customers, enabling them to accelerate their own development process and bring new generations of make-up and skincare products to market faster. In return, b.kolor will benefit from access to Givaudan's ingredient palette and patented fragrance and beauty technologies.
Maurizio Volpi, President of Givaudan Perfumes and Beauty, states: "The establishment of this unique partnership with b.kolor through the acquisition of 25 % of its shares promises to be an exciting venture. It fits perfectly with our ambitions for 2025 to continue our expansion in the skincare and make-up fields. By sharing our creative and innovative capabilities, we will be able to generate additional value for our respective customers by presenting a complete offering combining high-level science, design excellence and end-to-end manufacturing. This will benefit all of our customers by increasing their speed to market with highly innovative end products."
Maria-Teresa Sancini, president of b.kolor, said: "We are delighted to begin this collaboration with Givaudan. It represents a great opportunity to grow our business. Givaudan's creative, ingredient and technological capabilities will greatly assist us in evolving our product offering and we will also benefit from Givaudan's customer base and geographic presence to access new territories. We are also excited to share our unique creative, design and production expertise with Givaudan to bring tomorrow's products to market."
The terms of the transaction are not publicly disclosed. Givaudan will finance the transaction from existing resources. According to the agreement, within three years, Givaudan has the option, but not the obligation, to acquire majority control of b.kolor.
StereOscent, Jacques Blanc Parfum's new technology, offers, according to the brand, a true olfactory immersion for each perfume, existing or to be created.
"Imagine a stroll along a beach in Corsica. On one side, the sea and its fresh scent of iodine spray, on the other, the maquis and its notes of thyme and immortelle. Until now, the perfumer had only a mono-olfactory process to reproduce the scent of this walk. His bottle imitated the 3D sensation incompletely, rather like the monophony of yesteryear compared with stereophony. Thanks to StereOscent, he can now reproduce the fragrance as close as possible to the scented experience that nature offers us, and in full accord with our olfactory capacities".says Jacques Blanc Parfum.
StereOscent uses the same neuro-biological techniques as stereophony for hearing and virtual reality for sight. The technology uses our two independent olfactory networks (two nostrils, two bulbs, two nerves) to fully engage the olfactory capacities of our nervous system and recreate the very nature of the sense of smell.
"When a fragrance composed using StereOscent is compared to the same fragrance created using traditional methods, the result is clear: more volume, better definition of fragrant molecules and a feeling of natural immersion. This 3D principle brings greater depth and spatiality to the fragrance, allowing it to express all its notes, says Jacques Blanc Parfum.
With this new technology, which has been patented several times over, every fragrance can be created according to this principle of total immersion. An existing fragrance, such as Chanel N°5 for example, can be developed by the in-house perfumer with StereOscent to offer customers a new experience.
Jacques Blanc Parfum is a French Young Innovative Company (JEI) founded by Jacques Blanc. The entrepreneur studied in Nice and then at the University of Sherbrooke in Canada. After gaining experience as a creative director in advertising agencies, then as a teacher of the human nervous system in London, he worked with leading brands in the French perfume industry. In 2014, he was named Chevalier de l'Ordre des Arts et Lettres. Since 2019, he has dedicated himself to the development of StereOscent technology.
Quadpack, the international manufacturer and supplier of packaging for beauty products, has appointed Korean packaging manufacturer LM as an "Official Quadpack Partner", to help accelerate its penetration of the Asian market. Following the agreement with Yuga in China announced in February, Quadpack is establishing partnerships under a new regional operating model, designed to help build the Quadpack brand, increase market share, improve local service and share its values with its stakeholders.
Raj Savji, Managing Director - Asia Pacific at Quadpack, explains: "Asia's major packaging markets are measured in billions of euros. Korea alone is worth 1.1 billion euros. To conquer this region and achieve the objectives of our 2020-2025 sales strategy, we rely on our trusted partners. Bringing shared values, complementary strengths and established reputations, these key industry colleagues will extend our reach and enrich our service, enabling us to deliver solutions in the region and for the region."
A number of key attributes are required to qualify among the selection of partners considered for global network expansion. These include sustainable processes, category leadership, impeccable reputation, customer reach and added value in terms of manufacturing or access to new market segments.
LM, based in Seoul, Korea, is a well-established packaging manufacturer with a strong presence in the dermatological skin care sector. It has first-class facilities to produce, assemble and decorate components for Quadpack's QLine portfolio of intelligent, modular solutions. Yuga, based near Shanghai, China, already manufactures selected components from the QLine range. Together with Quadpack's European plants, these partners will enable the company to strengthen its offering and meet the needs of the Asian market.
As the partner network grows, Quadpack aims to expand its QLine portfolio with solutions designed for the local market with the help of its partners, and where possible with joint creations and collaborative innovations.
Quadpack's presence in the Asia-Pacific region also includes an office in Tokyo, Japan, inaugurated a year ago. With a growing team, it builds relationships and fosters partnerships in this key Asian market. The Melbourne office is the oldest in the region. It serves Australia and New Zealand directly, and plans to establish local warehousing and manufacturing sites to accelerate time-to-market and reduce carbon footprint.
This operating model based on formal partnerships will be considered for other regions to complement direct sales and service support. Historically speaking, however, growth through partnerships is nothing new for Quadpack. Rather, it's a return to our roots.
"Collaboration is in our DNA,says Tim Eaves, CEO of Quadpack. Quadpack began life as a partnership of three companies in 2003: Belcos Packaging, Lenglart Packaging and Gadbrooke Packaging, each working with partners worldwide. In fact, LM Managing Director Michael Lim is one of my longest-standing contacts at Belcos, a relationship that dates back almost twenty years. I'm delighted to renew our friendship and welcome our new partner to the Quadpack family."
For 25 years, PURE TRADE has been designing high-end packaging, luggage and accessories for prestigious international beauty and cosmetics brands.
The company has taken the iconic Louboutin color and created a refined case to house the original lipstick. The case is made of red PU on the outside, and black velvet on the inside. It closes with a magnetic button.
Pure Trade - which employs 65 people in Paris, London and Barcelona - relies on the in-house expertise of its design office and the operational excellence of its teams and partners, supported by its quality team. Each project is managed in its entirety, from the tailor-made creative proposal to final delivery, including logistics and packaging services on request.
Marked by a major renewal of its Board of Directors, which has been feminized and territorialized, as well as by the re-election of LVMH General Secretary Marc-Antoine Jamet as President of the cluster, unanimously appointed at its 2021 General Meeting, Cosmetic Valley has launched a revival based on six strategic priorities.
On Tuesday June 29, nearly 200 of the cluster's 800-plus members gathered for their first "physical" meeting since the start of the pandemic, at the Université d'Orléans, in the heart of a region boasting numerous public and private research centers particularly active in the perfumery-cosmetics sector.
MarcAntoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley, and Christophe Masson, the cluster's Managing Director, presented the main directions the association will be taking over the coming months.
A new page is being turned with the departure of several of the historic directors who, with Jean-Luc Ansel, helped found and develop Cosmetic Valley. A new generation of directors will now take over Cosmetic Valley's mission as national coordinator of the perfume and cosmetics industry. Representing all French territories, including overseas, all trades in the industry and all Cosmetic Valley member companies, whatever their size, the new Board of Directors includes a quarter of representatives from major groups, including L'Oréal, and three quarters of representatives from ETI/PME/TPE, and start-ups, whose proportion is now significant within the cluster.
Re-elected Chairman for a further three-year term, Marc-Antoine Jamet declared: "This year has (...) been marked by our resilience and the manufacture of gel, by the resilience and recovery of our factories and workshops. It must continue with our determined involvement in the revival of growth and jobs in our country. Because we want to ensure our future performance through concrete advances, we are adapting today not only our tools - I'm thinking of the 400 million euros of collaborative projects underway - but also our governance, with directors who reflect even more the diversity and wealth of our members. I expect them to play an active role, and to commit themselves to being our ambassadors, in France and around the world. I am delighted that, in a period of decisive transition, they have decided to renew their confidence in me for a further term at the head of Cosmetic Valley.
Eight months after the success of the first general meeting, and four months before their second edition at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris next October, in conjunction with the Cosmetic 360 trade show, the general meeting was also an opportunity to present the six strategic challenges Cosmetic Valley intends to meet.
1 - Continuing to support SMEs
Cosmetic Valley intends to step up its support for SMEs through its "guichet relance", an efficient gateway for SMEs to benefit from regional, national and European aid schemes.
At the forthcoming Cosmetic 360 trade show, the "Industry Summit", under the patronage of the French Minister for Industry, Agnès Pannier-Runacher, will review the progress of the 30 measures proposed during the October 2020 Estates General, to assess their relevance, share success stories, highlight the improvements achieved and those still to be achieved, in order to strengthen the industry dynamic.
2 - Consolidate the cluster's core business by boosting research at national and Community level
On June 29, the morning of the cluster's Annual General Meeting, 30 R&D directors took part in the first "Industry Scientific Committee" organized at the cluster's initiative to define the perfumery and cosmetics industry's innovation challenges and the actions to be taken to meet them.
A "Tour de France de la recherche cosmétique" to highlight the synergies between public and private research will be officially launched in Poitiers on September 2. Partners since 2005, the CNRS and Cosmetic Valley have decided to join forces to roll out a nationwide initiative to raise awareness of the skills of French research laboratories working on themes relevant to the industry, whether in chemistry, biology, microbiology, physics, materials, mathematics or even the human sciences, and to encourage collaborations with companies in the perfume and cosmetics industry. A dozen meetings will be organized between now and 2023.
3 - Increasing the French industry's visibility and agility on third-party markets: Global Cosmetics Cluster and the European toolbox
The perfume and cosmetics industry is the second largest contributor to France's balance of trade surplus, and at a time when several of its international markets are booming, particularly in Asia, exporting is a formidable engine of recovery and growth for its SMEs. In addition to the "export services" offered by the cluster since its inception, including support at the sector's major international trade shows, Cosmetic Valley now draws on the resources offered by the European Commission and, more specifically, its Cosme program, designed to support the internationalization of their SMEs and facilitate their access to new export markets.
Now bringing together six European cosmetics clusters, the "Global Cosmetics ClusterEurope" should enable SMEs to benefit from an exceptional European "toolbox" in terms of research & development, business and exports, skills development, and social and environmental commitment. The program also includes four missions to explore "target markets" (South Korea, United States, United Arab Emirates, India and Mexico). The first mission will take place in Dubai in October, at the BeautyWorld Middle East trade show.
4 - Representing the industry at the future International House of Cosmetics
A unique ecosystem worldwide, Cosmetic Valley works to raise the international profile of the French perfumery and cosmetics industry and promote the values of the "Marque France": innovation, performance, consumer safety, product authenticity and eco-responsibility. The Maison Internationale de la Cosmétique, due to open its doors in Chartres in 2024, has been designed as a unique place to embody, discover and promote the industry's expertise to a national and international audience.
The first stage of the project was completed in September 2020 with the opening of the Beauty Hub, France's first gas pedal dedicated to innovation in the perfumery and cosmetics industry. Co-financed by the French government and the Centre-Val de Loire region as part of the Programme Investissements d'Avenir, the Beauty Hub is supported by Cosmetic Valley and a consortium of nine of its companies: Aircos, Aptar, Chanel Parfum Beauté, I3DP, L'Oréal, LVMH Recherche, Nippon Shikizai, MS Beautilab and Yves Rocher. Located in Chartres on the site of the future "Maison Internationale de la Cosmétique", the Beauty Hub is a tool at the service of "Made in France". Its ambition is to encourage collaborative innovation and bring together start-ups, SMEs, ETIs, major corporations and research laboratories. Two classes of 5 to 10 start-ups are hosted each year. New for 2021: the Beauty Fab has become a demonstration center for new technologies proposed by equipment manufacturers.
5 - Promoting employment and training with the Cosmetic Experience Tour
The French perfumery and cosmetics sector is a fast-growing industry, with a pool of 246,000 professionals boasting a level of expertise that is the envy of all our competitors. This is why we
Cosmetic Valley is working with professionals from the French perfume and cosmetics industry (246,000 professionals) to prepare for the future and anticipate their needs, particularly in terms of new skills and personnel. In addition to a "Qualiopi" accredited training catalog geared towards helping companies make the digital transition, with courses combining webinars, e-learning and face-to-face sessions, and participation in numerous events designed to raise awareness among young people of the diversity of professions offered by the perfumery-cosmetics industry, this year the cluster will be organizing the Cosmetic Experience Tour, starting in Chartres on November 26. Aimed at a variety of audiences - secondary school pupils, jobseekers, people undergoing retraining, families - the Cosmetic Experience Tour is organized around two areas: an "experiential area" presenting the production stages of a cosmetic product, as well as jobs in short supply (production, maintenance, packaging, formulation), and a "village area" designed to bring together companies, guidance organizations and local partners, and to present training courses in the sector.
6 - Strengthening public-private partnerships and preparing phase 5 of competitiveness clusters
According to Cosmetic Valley, the creation of an industry committee, which met for the first time on March 26 under the chairmanship of the French Minister for Industry, Agnès Pannier-Runacher, was a decisive step forward in the sector's recognition as a strategic sector of the French economy, and reinforces the need for all stakeholders, both public and private, to work together.
The cluster points out that the same partnership dynamic should support Cosmetic Valley's preparations for the future "phase 5 of competitiveness clusters", by pursuing a territorial network made possible by new partnerships with regions such as Île-de-France, New Aquitaine, Hauts-de-France and Guyana; and by defining and prioritizing the industry's innovation challenges and developing structuring and collective actions to advance them in partnership with the French government and the European Commission.
Lucibel-le recently presented OVE, a Led face mask, designed by Olivier Lapidus.
Founded in 2008 by Frédéric Granotier, Lucibel designs and manufactures in France new generation lighting products and solutions based on LED technology. The company is a pioneer in new applications made possible by LEDs beyond lighting, such as Internet access through light (LiFi) or the restoration of the benefits of natural light indoors (Cronos). Lucibel-le Paris, a subsidiary of the group, is the first company to have designed, manufactured in France and marketed, since the end of 2014, a "home device", in the format of a smartphone, allowing home sessions to treat wrinkles and stretch marks according to the principle of photobiomodulation. Its new product: OVE, a beauty mask based on the same technology.
The body is made up of living cells that constantly absorb and reflect light. Skin cells have the ability to absorb light and convert it into energy. This energy supply leads to a series of chemical reactions that allow the body and face to be remodeled.
"LEDs emit a "cold" light in all the colors of the rainbow. The skin, like all our organs, captures this light energy: this is photobiomodulation. Among these colors, red has shown the way. Studied for nearly 30 years, it acts as a "light cream", a true elixir of youth. It boosts cellular respiration, repairs, regenerates, calms, relaxes, rests... "says Michèle Pelletier, dermatologist.
The brand has teamed up with designer Olivier Lapidus to create a mask with new shapes and functions. "When Frédéric Granotier contacted me, the collaboration was obvious. I immersed myself in LED technology, with the idea of embodying it in new product ideas. I'm delighted that the OVE mask is coming to life, with the design characteristics that drive me: contemporary spirit, pure curves, and an inclusive design, for all.said Olivier Lapidus.
"Born from this magnificent cooperation with Olivier Lapidus, a genius designer, the OVE mask is designed and manufactured in Barentin (Seine-Maritime) by Lucibel teams. Proud of its French origins, it relies on its elegance and its unequalled performance to conquer the world.said Frédéric Granotier, Lucibel's president and founder, on the occasion of the official launch of the OVE mask.
Presented as simple to use (a single button for a programmed session), OVE uses a cold light, without any risk of burning, to stimulate and regenerate the cells. This mask benefits from the latest technical innovations of Lucibel. With specific light intensities adapted to the different areas of the face, it allows to treat the whole face at a rate of 12 minutes per session, twice a week, for an optimum result according to Lucibel.le.
Several clinical studies have been conducted. According to the brand, the results obtained validate the benefits of the technology.
One of the studies conducted in 2021 showed that the technology implemented by Lucibel-le significantly reduced the depth of crow's feet wrinkles and reduced the sagging of the oval of the face. The study also concluded that there was an improvement in the evenness of the complexion and a significant increase in the density of the dermis. Results were also reportedly increased when using the Lucibel LED solutions in combination with the "Synergie Led" cosmetic products also offered by the brand.
Beauty through light has been at the heart of the Lucibel group's research and innovation for many years. With the creation of the Lucibel-le brand, the group demonstrates its desire to pursue an ambitious development strategy in the service of beauty and well-being.
Firmenich, the world's leading private fragrance and flavor company, becomes a member of the Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT), a non-profit association that promotes respectful sourcing. UEBT membership recognizes that Firmenich operates worldwide according to ethical sourcing principles and has developed effective work plans for its supply chains on biodiversity, fair and equitable benefit sharing, local development and labor rights.
"Our Natural Products Centre of Expertise in Grasse has been a member of UEBT since 2014 and now we are proud to join the organization on a global level, having passed their independent assessment with flying colors," said Gilbert Ghostine, CEO of Firmenich. "UEBT is known for setting high standards and working with companies on biodiversity, making this partnership a key step for our ESG 2030 goals on responsible sourcing. By integrating biodiversity protection into all our natural sourcing from 50 countries, we are making a real difference for people, planet and society, and offering our customers the highest quality natural raw materials from sustainable sources."
As a prerequisite for becoming a UEBT member worldwide, Firmenich's commitments to its biodiversity policy and responsible sourcing system have been assessed by the UEBT in accordance with its principles.
"We have designed and agreed a clear work plan with UEBT for the next three years," added Boet Brinkgreve, President of Ingredients. "Our aim is to drive the continuous improvement of local producers in our value chains and to ensure appropriate risk management systems across our natural products sourcing portfolio. Through this collaboration, we also aim to achieve certification for many of our key ingredients by 2030."
Firmenich is also the first company in the world to have obtained, in 2021, the Access and Benefit Sharing (ABS) Due Diligence Verification recently launched by the UEBT, which examined the system used by Firmenich to comply with the rules linked to the Nagoya Protocol on ABS. ABS ensures that benefits arising from biodiversity-based research and development are shared fairly and equitably, including through sustainable practices and collaboration with local communities.
"Firmenich has set clear targets for 2030 for sourcing in a way that respects people and biodiversity," commented Rik Kutsch Lojenga, UEBT Director. "A robust implementation strategy is currently being deployed by Firmenich to ensure that these goals are met and that a positive impact is generated for people and biodiversity. By joining the UEBT, the Firmenich Group commits to continuous improvement by emphasizing local practices in its responsible sourcing due diligence system and supplier support program. We look forward to working with Firmenich on this."
As part of its Naturals Together platform, Firmenich is building its leadership in natural products on three pillars: sustainable sourcing standards; certified ingredient collections with strong involvement at source; and innovation.
Membership of UEBT supports the Group's ambitions for sourcing in a way that respects people and biodiversity.
Anne Charpentier, founder of Skinobs, a company that publishes technical platforms dedicated to testing in vitro and ex-vivoIn the context of the clinical evaluation of the signs of aging correlated to hormonal changes, and to menopause in particular, this article sheds light on the clinical evaluation of the signs of aging correlated to hormonal changes, and to menopause in particular.
How do we clinically assess the change in skin caused by the hormonal changes associated with menopause?
Intrinsic skin aging correlated to hormonal deficiency, particularly related to menopause, is similar to age-related aging. Its main manifestations are progressive, with great inter-individual variation. The skin changes that appear indicate the skin's hormonal dependence and can lead to a decrease in self-esteem and well-being. Extrinsic aging, due to environmental factors often called exposome - sun, tobacco, alcohol, pollution, diet, sleep, stress - represents about 70 % of aging. It modifies the genetic capital, but it is reversible. SkinObs summarizes the different evaluation options.
We can categorize the signs of skin aging due to menopause as follows:
Studies on the perception of cutaneous hormonal aging show that the category of skin care for postmenopausal skin is similar to that of care related to aging factors, including intrinsic hormonal changes. In addition to the geographical variations of their regulatory status according to each country, their performance generally announces several effects related to various cellular and biochemical mechanisms (microbiota, keratinocytes, fibroblasts, melanocytes, nerve receptors...)
In addition to their classic effectiveness on the skin's surface and structure, skin care products dedicated to menopausal skin provide improvements in emotional well-being and sensoriality. The cutaneous signs of aging continue to be studied with great precision, to provide tangible proof of the product's performance. The promise is generally a recovery of tissue elasticity, volume and facial shape. The table below summarizes the various associated claims.
How to objectify "pro-aging" skin care for skin affected by hormonal changes related to menopause?
If we integrate the notion of "well-being" in the proposed treatments, the term "Pro-age" or "plain-age" seems more appropriate than "anti-aging", because it takes into account the condition of the skin in its entirety. Numerous pro-ageing performance analysis solutions are available to cosmetic brands to clinically demonstrate the effects of their products via biometrological and scientific measurements.
The identification of the properties of these "pro-age" products is based on a sensory, sometimes neurosensory and holistic approach. Feelings and impacts on quality of life are measured. Five main categories of tests are available to investigators: consumer tests, sensory or emotional analyses, biometrological studies, and clinical scores.
SkinObs has listed in the table below the devices used to validate the performance of skincare products to combat hormonal changes caused by menopause, via quantitative, semi-quantitative or imaging objectification. The protocol can be multiparametric, depending on the effects to be studied.
We remind you that it is essential to take the time, with the test laboratories, to design each protocol and to define precisely the inclusion criteria, the kinetics of the time measurements, the treatment conditions, and the most suitable instrumental method.
Perspectives on the evolution of evaluation processes
Skin imaging, from the centimeter to the nanometer scale, is increasingly crucial. It allows to measure with great precision the different elements and structures of the skin: water, lipids, dermal-epidermal junction, extracellular matrix, fibers etc.
These various highly technical biometrological measurements lead to a connection between technology and the new digital uses of personalization, from the store to the bathroom. This connection between objectification and the digital way of choosing and buying can bring cosmeticians closer to the reality of marketing. Whether for aging, radiance, biomechanical properties or hydration, the different techniques bring higher resolution, wider measurement area, non-invasive, non-contact and direct methods. Algorithms and statistics will be the key success factors of these new technologies.
L'Oréal and Facebook announce a technology integration that allows shoppers on Instagram to virtually try on makeup products using ModiFace, L'Oréal's augmented reality and artificial intelligence company.
With this latest step in their collaboration, ModiFace and AR Spark, Facebook's augmented reality platform, bring shoppers the experience of a highly realistic virtual fitting. By browsing a brand's Instagram page, consumers will be able to try on a product before buying.
The service is already available for lipsticks from NYX Professional Makeup, Urban Decay, Maybelline New York and Lancôme. It will soon be extended to other brands and product categories.
"ModiFace has been a pioneer in augmented reality, developing realistic and accurate virtual fitting experiences for over a decade. At a time when "social commerce "* is becoming increasingly popular with consumers, we're delighted to take this next step in our collaboration with Facebook, making the shopping experience on Instagram both easy and fun."says Parham Aarabi, CEO and co-founder of ModiFace.
"Using augmented reality for virtual fittings is a new breakthrough for Facebook that makes online shopping easier. Thanks to this collaboration with L'Oréal, consumers will have an even more personalized shopping experience with their favorite brands, where they already find their inspiration: Instagram."notes Sue Young, General Manager of Spark AR, Facebook.
Facebook will also integrate ModiFace's virtual fitting into new advertising formats on the Facebook App.
* online sales via social networks
Industries Cosmétiques, the complete watch of the perfumery and cosmetic industry for suppliers, researchers, manufacturers and service providers.
Copyright 2021 Editocom
