Today, hemp production in France is limited to industrial applications. A change in regulations is expected this year to allow hemp tops to be harvested and valorized.
At the same time, the Agence nationale de sécurité du médicament et des produits de santé (ANSM) is launching an experiment to demonstrate the benefits of cannabis for medical purposes. This raises the question of how to structure a specialized French cannabis industry with highly technological production constraints.
In this fast-changing context, Innov'Alliance aims to explore and anticipate new avenues of innovation, from hemp and cannabis production to the valorization of cannabinoids in nutraceutical, cosmetic and food drink "wellness" markets.
The competitiveness cluster is organizing a technical day on 1er July, in Avignon, on this theme, enabling participants to discover the "Hemp of possibilities" and explore the challenges and avenues for innovation. Numerous issues will be addressed, from hemp and cannabis production to the formulation and valorization of CBD and cannabinoids.
L'Oréal announces the production of the world's first fully recycled plastic cosmetic bottle thanks to the enzymatic technology from Carbios and aims to put the bottles resulting from this breakthrough innovation into production in 2025. Biotherm would thus be the first Group brand to launch a product in this bottle of the future.
Carbios' technology, a pioneer in the development of biotechnological processes for PET* plastic recycling, paves the way for the manufacture of new products from 100% recycled materials thanks to its enzymatic process. It has the advantage of being able to process all types of PET - clear, colored, opaque and multilayer - and to recycle these plastics ad infinitum.
Jacques Playe, L'Oréal Packaging and Development Directordeclares : "We have been working with Carbios since 2017 to develop this first bottle based on enzymatically recycled PET, an alternative technology to mechanical recycling. Today, we are pleased to announce its feasibility in the pilot phase, and are delighted to be able to create, with our partners, the packaging of the future. This is a promising innovation for the future, which illustrates our commitment to bringing to market packaging that is more respectful of the planet, and which is part of a circularity approach we have been pursuing for over 15 years".
Giulio Bergamaschi, Biotherm International General Managerdeclares : "Biotherm is a pioneer in eco-responsible cosmetics, and has placed sustainable packaging and waste reduction at the heart of its strategy. We are delighted to be the first cosmetics brand to produce an entirely recycled bottle thanks to Carbios' breakthrough technology".
In 2017, to promote the development of innovative plastic recycling solutions, L'Oréal created a consortium with Carbios to industrialize its technology, which was joined by Nestlé Waters, PepsiCo and Suntory Beverage & Food Europe. Since 2019, L'Oréal has acquired a stake in Carbios through its private equity fund BOLD Business Opportunities for L'Oréal Development. With "L'Oréal for the Future", L'Oréal's new sustainable development program to 2030, the Group has taken a new step towards a profound transformation of its activities and has set itself ambitious new targets, particularly in terms of packaging:
- by 2025, 100 % of its plastic packaging will be refillable, reusable, recyclable or compostable;
- by 2030, 100 % of plastic packaging will be of recycled or biosourced origin, and the Group will no longer use any virgin plastics of fossil origin;
- 100 % of ingredients used in biobased formulas and materials will be traceable to sustainable sources by 2030.
To achieve these goals, L'Oréal works with several strategic partners to ensure it has the best technologies available. In addition to Carbios, L'Oréal collaborates in particular with Albéa, a leader in cosmetic packaging, with whom the Group developed in 2019 the first cosmetic tube incorporating FSC-certified cardboard; Purecycle, to produce polypropylene (PP) recycled by solvolysis; and LanzaTech and Total, with whom L'Oréal announced in October 2020 a world first: the production of a polyethylene (PE) cosmetic bottle designed from recycled industrial carbon emissions.
*PET :PET plastic (polyethylene terephthalate) is the most commonly recycled plastic.
Organized as part of the ADF&PCD and PLD Paris 2021 trade fairs, the benchmark event for packaging beauty products, premium beverages, aerosols and dispensing systems, the PCD Innovation Awards, ADF Innovation Awards and PLD Innovation Awards aim to recognize and reward the year's most outstanding packaging on the European market in 2020.
Some 160 entries, 61 winning products, 22 awards, 25 certificates and 3 special mentions: three juries of packaging technical experts, professionals from the most influential brands on the market and journalists representing the profession voted to select the winners.
Every year, new trends emerge. For this year's event, we'll be remembering the exchanges around the products in competition on: eco-design, new gestures, ergonomics, sustainable projects, refillables, reusables, connected products, recycled materials, 3D printing, design, decoration, product environment, recycled aluminum, 0 plastic, new codes for luxury, French know-how, etc.., recurring terms shared and used most frequently by jury members, and which helped select the finalists of the year's most outstanding innovations, acclaimed in the various categories.
The winners are:
> For the PCD Innovation Awards
Category: Fragrance for Men & Women
Parfums Christian Dior, Sauvage Ressource (award)
Boucheron, Serpent Bohème (award)
Giorgio Armani, My Way (award)
Jimmy Choo, Seduction Collection Parfums (certificate)
Interparfums, Montblanc Signature (certificate)
Puig, Loubiworld (certificate)
Givenchy, L'interdit (certificate)
Coty, Perfect Marc Jacob (certificate)
Category: Premium & Luxury Make-up
Juni Cosmetics, Luxury Hydrating Lipstick (award)
Chanel, Stretch Mascara (award)
Chanel, "Les Beiges" Fluid Foundation (certificate)
Jimmy Choo, Seduction Collection Lipstick Satin Color (certificate)
Two years after integrating 3D printing technology into its services, Albéa has reached a new milestone in the development of 3D cosmetic packaging solutions, thanks to a partnership with start-up Erpro 3D Factory. The company is currently developing applications exploiting industry-leading HP Multi Jet Fusion 3D printing technology, combined with Erpro's know-how in cosmetics production. As a result, the first generation of cosmetic parts, designed and produced to take advantage of the advanced capabilities of the HP platform, is currently in the final stages of development. Albéa will be launching the first products very shortly.
"HP and Erpro's expertise allows us to take 3D printing in cosmetics to the next level. The fine detail that HP technology is capable of delivering is astonishing, says Yann Crapet, 3D Project Manager at Albéa. We can offer our customers fast-to-market solutions combined with unprecedented custom design, for both small and large quantities."
In the initial phase of this joint effort, Albéa, Erpro and HP Inc worked closely together to design and produce applications that met the regulatory standards of the cosmetics industry, while offering a high level of quality, cost and reliability. By offering extreme detail and massive customization, the benefits of the design proved essential to the development process.
"As we've seen in consumer goods and other markets such as automotive and healthcare, the mass production of 3D printing applications has the potential to truly revolutionize industries," said Virginia Palacios, responsible for managing Multi Jet Fusion, HP Personalization and 3D Printing solutions. This groundbreaking work with Albéa and Erpro opens up astonishing possibilities for the world's leading cosmetics brands. The advanced capabilities offered by Multi Jet Fusion enable incredibly detailed design, precision quality and first-class performance for parts such as cosmetic brushes and more."
As the end-user of the machine, Erpro improved and customized its manufacturing processes to support the industrial production of small parts designed by Albéa.
3D printing technology continues to evolve rapidly beyond prototyping, offering flexible options for highly customized mass production of final parts and opening up new perspectives for brands and manufacturers, particularly in the cosmetics sector : "Today, this technology is unlocking many manufacturing applications, with unprecedented precision and reliability." explains Quentin Bertucchi, R&D Process Engineer at Erpro Group. "We are now able to produce even larger quantities in a shorter time. Advancing the industrialization of 3D printing with HP and Albéa and exploring all the possibilities of this technology is an exciting experience."adds Cyrille Vue, CEO of Erpro.
Albéa joins the declaration on extended producer responsibility for packaging
Albéa was the first cosmetics packaging manufacturer to sign the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's New Plastics Economy Global Commitment. Three years later, it was one of some 100 companies to endorse Ellen MacArthur's declaration in favor of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for the packaging industry.
"This declaration is an important and necessary step in the journey towards circularity, and we're proud to be part of it, says Gilles Swyngedauw, VP Sustainable Development & Innovation. We are rethinking the plastic packaging value chain with the aim of having a 100 % circular Albéa product portfolio by 2025. However, we are convinced that such a change will only happen if we work closely with all industry stakeholders. Together, we need to put in place efficient systems that enable packaging waste to be collected and regenerated."
A world first for Algentech, a specialist in cutting-edge genome-editing technologies and synthesis tools. Its technology enables the production of proteins and nucleic acids in plant chloroplasts. A quantum leap for many industrial sectors seeking new biosourced production routes.
Yesterday, the journal Nature Plants published the process patented by Algentech. The article describes for the first time in the world an autonomous expression system in the form of minichromosomes that have the ability to self-replicate in chloroplasts. The method does not require integration of the genes of interest into the chloroplast genome. It therefore generates a nucleic acid and protein expression level 5 to 10 times higher than in the case of insertion.
Plants and algae transformed into green factories
In addition to a very high production yield, up to 70 % of total soluble proteins, the system offers the possibility of transferring biosynthetic pathways in their entirety: where existing technologies are limited to the integration of a few genes, Algentech's tool achieves the performance of simultaneous expression of 15 to 20 genes in plant cells. This technological leap forward makes it the tool of choice for synthetic biology and green chemistry applications in a wide range of sectors, including the production of peptides, nucleic acids, enzymes, therapeutic compounds and other molecules of interest to the pharmaceutical, cosmetics, food and energy industries...
Based on chloroplasts, the organelles responsible for photosynthesis in plant cells, Algentech's proprietary technology is comparable to biological production systems in microorganisms, but with a notable advantage: using sunlight as an energy source while consuming carbon dioxide (CO2). Plants are thus transformed into veritable green production factories, sustainable and respectful of the environment. Tested in tobacco, soya, carrots and duckweed, the system is transferable to a wide range of terrestrial plant species, and potentially also to photosynthetic algae, which have chloroplasts at the heart of their cells.
Algentech, a bioproduction player open to industrial partnerships
Awarded the Genopole® label and supported by Bpifrance, the company has entered into industrial and academic partnerships. Its platform will be used to produce natural biopesticide molecules for the agrochemical industry and enzymes for the biofuels sector. It is open to new collaborations to extend the scope of applications and increase production capacity. For example, the technology is promising for the biological production of squalene, useful in the cosmetics industry and as a vaccine adjuvant, or enzymes involved in the production of biohydrogen, a renewable energy source contributing to the energy transition.
"This technological breakthrough enables Algentech to position itself as a biomanufacturing player in France at a time when Europe's industrial production policy, which showed its shortcomings during the Covid pandemic, is changing, says Isabelle Malcuit, General Manager and Scientific Director. It responds to the need to strengthen and diversify industrial capacities at national level in a sustainable and environmentally-friendly way".
In MAKE UP FOR EVER's new Aqua Resist eyebrow range, Brow Fixer is distinguished by a texture in five creamy, intense, long-lasting shades, applied with a beveled micro-brush to discipline and sculpt the eyes.
Texen Beauty Partners was responsible for the turnkey development, which included a customized standard pack and, as the product's centerpiece, a fine, beveled brush that underwent particularly demanding sourcing. Its 45° curvature and ergonomic cap, designed to the right length, promise a precise gesture for exact eyebrow definition.
The 5 parts that make up the product are injected in various materials, chosen for their effectiveness and resistance. The 5-ml bottle is injected in black. The logo and tint are screen-printed in white.
Anti-waste varnishes that increase the quantity used by up to 20 %, chemical solvents replaced by natural materials, the inclusion of disabled workers in order preparation, soon a 100 % organic, refillable and recyclable mascara: start-up Clever Beauty is shaking up the make-up industry with its commitment to promoting a responsible economy. "We wanted to bring the transparency and sincerity our customers expect," stresses Maëva Bentitallah, the brand's president.
A tamper-proof digital passport for every product
Clever Beauty wanted to go one step further by sharing its commitments with its community of consumers on a product-by-product basis. It chose Sorga technology to create tamper-proof digital passports for each product, from which it manages its information in real time. For its customers, the passport can be read on each product using the QR code reader on their smartphone, with no application to download and no identification required.
Sorga technology is a low-power public blockchain solution developed from exclusive CNRS patents, and made available to brands by MAP Émulsion.
Technology and support
"MAP Émulsion didn't just put the technology in place for us, like too many online solutions. Above all, it's a team that backs up the technology with services and business expertise in beauty and marketing.continues Maëva Bentitallah.
For his part, Philippe Guguen, President of MAP Émulsion, admits that "it's indicative of the new generation of our customers, who push us to take up a number of challenges. Here, the choice of the marker that opens the Sorga passport on your smartphone had to meet the environmental commitments of Clever Beauty, which doesn't have a case to print this marker on. So we chose a biodegradable sticker. Depending on the context, we adapt the marker: QR code, RFID, NFC, or even a photo print of the chaos of the material on a product detail for luxury brands that suffer from the scourge of counterfeiting. Sorga's tamper-proof digital passports can be called up by a wide variety of product markers."
Clever Beauty chose the QR code for its universality and ease of use. With an adapted design. The Sorga marker takes the form of an elegant diamond that can be read by any QR code reader. " It immediately looks much better on a beauty product!"admits Maëva Bentitallah.
Clever Beauty not only provides information on its commitments, but also distributes advice in its passports. " It's reassuring to have direct access to the information and opinions behind the product before you buy it, explains Alice de Guyenro, customer and Made in France entrepreneur herself. Secondly, it's so much more practical to have visual explanations and video tutorials when using it. There's even a messaging system reserved for customers in the product passport."
In addition, we offer services such as opinion gathering. Maëva Bentitallah explains: "Up to now, the reviews have concerned online shoppers. But that's only one in five beauty products in France. With Sorga, I can collect reviews wherever the product is purchased, it's blockchain-certified and I can really dispose of it as a brand."
Consumers therefore provide Clever Beauty with strategic feedback, to which Sorga adds useful statistics on the content they are interested in, where and when products are seen, and so on.
To find out more, Philippe Guguen, President of MAP Émulsion, gave us an interview published in our magazine Industries Cosmétiques (n°30 june 2021).
Easyfairs, the international event organizer, today announces the launch of a new Italian edition of PCD, the world's leading trade show for beauty packaging. This new edition will be held alongside Packaging Première, the luxury packaging show, in Milan from May 24 to 26, 2022.
PCD Milan will bring together principals and packaging designers from the Italian and international perfumery, cosmetics and skincare markets with many of the world's most innovative packaging suppliers. Milan is the ideal location, as it lies at the heart of Italy's Cosmetic Valley, home to over 500 cosmetics companies and a center of excellence in the international perfumery and cosmetics sectors.
The launch of the event builds on the dual heritage of Packaging Première and PCD, both part of the international Easyfairs network of packaging events.
Packaging Première was launched in 2017 and has quickly established itself as a benchmark event for the luxury goods sector around Milan. It brings together designers and developers of packaging for luxury goods in all sectors - including fashion, watches and jewelry, perfumes and cosmetics, delicatessen, wines and spirits and much more - with the market's leading suppliers of packaging materials and products.
PCD was launched in Paris in 2001, and is trusted by the packaging teams of the world's leading beauty brands as a source of inspiration and innovation for their products. The event offers a unique mix of renowned products and suppliers, numerous networking opportunities and inspiring conferences to help drive business and innovation in the beauty packaging sector.
Pierpaolo Ponchia, founder of Packaging Première and Managing Director of Easyfairs Italia, comments : " PCD Milan will bring an exciting new dimension to Packaging Première, with the addition of a strong focus on primary packaging for the beauty sector. The two events combined will reinforce Packaging Première's position as Italy's must-attend event for all those involved in premium and luxury packaging design."
Josh Brooks, PCD Paris Event Director, comments : " We're delighted to bring PCD to Milan. We've seen a growing number of Italian visitors and exhibitors at our Paris event in recent years, and bringing the event to Milan will allow us to serve and connect our community on a new level. Packaging Première is an exceptional event and the ideal partner for the launch of PCD Milan"..
Perlucine, a natural, zero-waste brand, presents two new powder cosmetics: a deodorant and a facial cleanser.
Based between the Côte de Jade and the Golfe du Morbihan, Perlucine is developing a short product range based on its main local and natural marine resource: wild white oyster shell powder.
The shells used in Perlucine's skincare products are those that are born and die naturally in the ocean, washing up on beaches as far as the eye can see during high tides. Their purity and dazzling whiteness are hand-picked and enhanced in a natural cosmetics range.
The deodorant powder (40-gram tube) is enriched with a natural prebiotic active ingredient that reduces odor formation, respects the skin microbiome and lets the skin breathe. According to Perlucine, effective all day long, it cares for underarms, leaving them soft and delicately scented.
Facial cleansing powder gently removes impurities. Its ultra-fine oyster shell gently cleanses and remineralizes the epidermis. Skin is soft and cleansed, with a radiant complexion. Available in 40-gram tubes, 100-gram refills and 4-kilo bulk packs.
This July, 150 business leaders will begin an 8-month program based on a roadmap aligned with European objectives such as reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 55 % by 2030. By embarking on this adventure, Arcade Beauty is positioning itself and speaking out in line with its group-wide CSR strategy.
Arcade Beauty has just joined the pool of 150 companies recruited by the CEC. Through a dense and unifying program, the CEC intends to commit each of them to act for the ecological transition through its human and financial resources, its influence and its power of communication.
More than a CSR strategy
Under the leadership of Carl Allain, head of European operations, Arcade Beauty has begun drafting its own operational roadmap, with the aim of building a case for French and European political decision-makers. "Our already mature CSR charter will serve as an entry point for positioning ourselves within a collective debate on a new approach to ecological transition. Our visibility on the global market for samples and mini beauty products gives us a responsibility. It justifies our motivation to take up this challenge by adopting a model behavior that encourages clear, impactful decision-making, with the aim of becoming a demanding and ambitious player in the face of transformations in our ecosystem", he explains. La Convention des Entreprises pour le Climat is a non-profit association under the French law of 1901, built on complete independence. Its aim is to encourage companies to involve their ecosystems in a global eco-responsible approach to major issues such as global warming, pollution and the geopolitical tensions affecting the living world. By signing a charter and drawing up its own roadmap, each company will be able to reinvent itself around new models and new performances, speak out and set an example. On the program over the coming months: working sessions, debates, meetings with scientists, ecological transition experts and other facilitators who will be supporting the 150 participants.
