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Discover our international special issue

site-industries-cosmetiques The cosmetics industry presents products suitable for mobile devices for home use in January 2020.

Good news! Our international special 2021-2022 is out. In this issue, you can read our latest product and market news, as well as expert opinions on cosmetology, research and regulations.

And don't forget our special report on the entire industry. perfumery-cosmetics of a country. After South Korea, Japan, the United States and Finland in our previous editions, it's now the turn of France. Switzerland Switzerland, a country that immediately evokes quality...

Our special issue, all in Englishis already available in download on our website. Subscribers will shortly receive it in their mailboxes. And visitors to international trade fairs will be able to pick it up at the entrances...

Enjoy your reading!

The Albéa group awarded by EcoVadis with the Gold level.

site-industries-cosmetiques Ecodias gold sustainability rating.

The international platform for assessing companies' sustainable development performance has rated Albéa's performance in 2021 on sustainable development themes in four main categories: environment, social & human rights, ethics and eesponsible purchasing.

With an overall score of 67/100, Albéa joins the top 5 % companies assessed by EcoVadis, and the 3% companies assessed in the "Plastic products manufacturing industry" category.

"As a group with 31 sites in 13 countries, our challenge is to achieve a consistent level of CSR across all our sites, says Gilles Swyngedauw, Vice President Sustainable Development and Innovation. The EcoVadis assessment helps us to continuously improve our performance and effectively structure and deploy our CSR program."

"We are very honored to be recognized as one of the most sustainable companies in our industry, adds François Luscan, President and CEO of Albéa. This recognition motivates us to strengthen our position as a thought leader, innovator and trusted partner, and to continue working closely with our customers and stakeholders."

Cosfibel Group optimizes its exit from the crisis

site-industries-cosmetiques A man and a woman posing for a photo in front of a desk, representing the Cosfibel Group's optimized exit from the crisis.

Far from denying the difficulties affecting the luxury and beauty sectors, the Cosfibel group is resisting, anticipating and bouncing back. Acquisitions, partnerships, the opening up of new markets, the development of its product range and a new management team are all part of a resolutely offensive strategy.

Although Cosfibel saw its sales fall by 16 % in 2020, the group nevertheless gained market share in beauty. It has extended its sales network and is currently making several niche acquisitions in France and abroad. Thanks to its creative approach, the group has been able to preserve its operating margins and has built up a war chest to face any opportunity. Finally, Alain Chevassus is organizing his succession with the arrival of Marie Sermadiras as Executive Vice President of Cosfibel Group.

A stronger international presence

Cosfibel has taken advantage of the economic situation to rethink, reorganize and consolidate its offering and presence in the field. Its network of urban networks is being strengthened in Asia (Shanghai and Singapore) and Europe (Switzerland and Benelux), as well as in France with the recent acquisition of Boite Alu in Bordeaux.  

Acquisitions and partnerships to support local imports and diversification 

Boite Alu, which has been integrated into the Industries division, enables the Group to strengthen its position in metal packaging, particularly in the food and beauty sectors. Cosfibel has acquired 100 % of the capital of MMB, a Breda-based near-import trader specializing in folding and rigid packs for the delicatessen market in particular. In addition, MMB has an exclusive sourcing site in Warsaw, a real opportunity for our customers.

Laser, headed by Ségolène De Pommereau, has just joined the group and will be the subject of a joint venture (51/49). Laser excels in the field of essential oil diffusers, designed in France and developed in Asia. With a network of close import partners, it has strong connections with brands in the pharmacy, parapharmacy, phytocosmetics and aromatherapy sectors. 

These three companies have a growth potential higher than that of the market as a whole. Their acquisition should represent full-year sales of 15 M$, exactly the amount of land sold in 2020. 

Finally, in the short term, Cosfibel will pursue its acquisition policy in the luxury goods and fine food markets.

A consolidated CSR policy

Since the birth of its Cares program 10 years ago, Cosfibel has maintained its lead with its social programs. Within the group, the CSR dimension has spread by capillary action to all levels, with the award of the Ecovadis Gold Medal. 
Cosfibel is one of the 1 % top-rated companies in the sector in terms of the environment, human and labor rights, ethics and sustainable development.  

Cosfibel, tomorrow: Marie Sermadiras comes on board

"At 31, Marie is a strong personality, full of vitality and positive energy. She's close to our values, a good listener and a true team worker, explains Alain Chevassus. I'll be accompanying him as Executive Chairman of the Group, with the aim of preparing the transition from an SME to an ETI, with a magnificent team and a great project", he concludes.

Seppic strengthens its position in the nutricosmetics market

site-industries-cosmetiques A field of tall grass.

EPI France, specialized for over 20 years in the development and manufacture of active ingredients of natural origin for the nutricosmetics and cosmetics markets, joins Seppic.

EPI France (Extraction Purification Innovation France) is a family-owned French company with unique know-how. The high level of quality and performance applied to the manufacture of its ingredients enables EPI to offer the market one of its flagship ingredients, Ceramosides, whose oral and topical efficacy on skin beauty has been scientifically proven and validated by clinical studies. Seppic has been distributing this ingredient for over 10 years.

Already a recognized player in the cosmetics market, Seppic is a forerunner in the nutricosmetics market, and for the past ten years has been supporting its customers in the development of beauty supplements worldwide.

This acquisition reinforces Seppic's expertise and know-how in botanical extraction and its position as a supplier of high-quality ingredients for the beauty market. With the transfer of know-how and EPI's in-house production tools, Seppic now controls the entire research, development and industrialization process, from raw material extraction to active ingredients.

The nutricosmetics market will be worth between $6 and $7 billion worldwide by 2020, with annual growth of between 8 and 10%. This dynamism echoes the rise of the holistic beauty concept and strong demand from consumers, who are increasingly turning to food supplements that combine efficacy, quality and naturalness.

Jean Baptiste Dellon, General Manager of Seppic, comments: ". This acquisition opens up new growth prospects for Seppic in the cosmetics and nutricosmetics markets. We are delighted to welcome the EPI France teams to Seppic. Our long-standing cooperation and the values of expertise, quality and customer care that we share with EPI France will enable us to rapidly exploit synergies for the development and marketing of new ingredients."

Valérie Bizot, President and co-founder of EPI France, comments: "Our partnership with Seppic has always been very fruitful and we are convinced that with an innovative company like Seppic, the know-how and skills developed by EPI France will continue to progress and be valued."

Global Cosmetics Cluster, international network of cosmetics clusters

site-industries-cosmetiques Logo of the global cosmetics cluster.

Fifteen associations from five continents launch the first official international network of cosmetics clusters, Global Cosmetics Cluster, a gateway to internationalization for SMEs.

Some 15 national cosmetics and fragrance clusters and associations announced the official launch of the Global Cosmetics Cluster, the worldwide network representing the entire beauty industry value chain: ingredients, formulation, manufacturing, packaging, finished products, distribution and logistics, engineering/machinery tools, assembly lines, testing and analysis/quality control, services, research and training.

The industry was valued at $380.2 billion in 2019 and is expected to reach $463.5 billion by 2027. The growth of the cosmetics market is driven by the increasing awareness of the importance of beauty and wellness among the female population and the attractiveness of the industry to female entrepreneurs and workforce. The beauty market is innovative, dynamic and progressive, contributing to the improvement of lifestyle, in addition to being aided by a steadily increasing per capita income in emerging countries1

The new entity includes 15 founding members, representing more than 3,700 companies on five continents. The new association's board of directors is chaired by Cosmetic Valley (France), with Beauty Cluster (Spain) as treasurer and Canadian Cosmetics Cluster as secretary, and completed by Cosmetics Cluster UK.

According to Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley: "Global Cosmetics Cluster was initiated and launched by Cosmetic Valley in 2016 to federate our strengths and resources, share best practices in cosmetics and work on joint projects. And this process will be all the more important in the context of the health crisis that brings new challenges, promoting a new balance of power in the cosmetics sector globally, with new competitors, but also new opportunities. The challenges are difficult to overcome. We must face them together. "Global Cosmetics Clusters was set up to empower each of its members and make us collectively stronger. I am very tempted to quote Henry Ford, the emblematic figure of a previous industrial revolution who said: coming together is a beginning, staying together is progress, working together is success. Let's work together and strengthen our cooperation!"

In 2019, its members decided to structure themselves into working groups with the goal of becoming an official association, which has now been fully realized. In 2020, a new branch, Global Cosmetics Cluster-Europe, was created with the support of the European Commission's COSME program.

The goal of the new meta cluster is to increase international collaboration, both for business and for research and innovation projects, by creating networking and partnership opportunities, thus helping its members to grow.

Global Cosmetics Clusters Members 1- Management - Market info

1 https://www.alliedmarketresearch.com/cosmetics-market

Sulapac jar of organic origin for the new i+m deodorant cream

site-industries-cosmetiques Cream and eggs are placed in a white bowl.

Berlin-based i+m has chosen Sulapac Nordic Collection by Quadpack for the latest additions to its natural cosmetics range.

Award-winning German brand i+m has launched a new product in its "We reduce!" line. The brand has launched its rose cream deodorant in an innovative sustainable packaging: the 30 ml jar from the Sulapac Nordic Collection by Quadpack, the international manufacturer and supplier of packaging for beauty products.

Made from compostable biobased material that biodegrades without leaving behind microplastics, this packaging was developed by Quadpack to the highest sustainability standards. "Quadpack has been a partner for us from the outset, helping us to make great strides in sustainable packaging. We had been looking for a plastic-free alternative for a long time, and the Sulapac jar offers all the advantages of plastic, while being compostable and made from renewable raw materials", explains Jörg von Kruse, Managing Director of i+m.

With a proud history of fair trade and vegan skincare products, i+m has won three sustainability awards for its products. The "We reduce!" line was the latest finalist for the German Sustainability Award Design 2021, thanks to its plastic-free packaging and certified natural cosmetics. Taking a holistic approach to the beauty sector, integrating ecology, animal welfare and the social economy, i+m chooses its partners based on their ability to develop the "deeply sustainable" cosmetics of the future.

Sulapac Nordic Collection by Quadpack pots fit the concept perfectly: made from wood and plant-based binders, biologically recyclable raw materials, the range offers a decisive and innovative approach to the challenge of plastic waste.

Pierre Fabre announces gradual return to normal operations after cyberattack

site-industries-cosmetiques Cyberattack, Pierre Fabre+ activities

Following the cyber attack suffered by the Pierre Fabre Group on March 31, IT remediation operations have enabled the company's main operations to gradually return to normal.  

Following the resumption of distribution activities on April 15, the Group's main plants at Gien (pharmaceuticals), Soual (dermo-cosmetics) and Avène (dermo-cosmetics) gradually resumed industrial production on Monday April 26. The Gaillac plant, which manufactures pharmaceutical and dermo-cosmetic active ingredients, was able to continue operations. 

In France and abroad, sales activity has never been interrupted, and distribution operations have now resumed normally in all Group subsidiaries.

Thanks to safety stocks and the continuation of priority deliveries, the Group was able to ensure the continued availability of its therapeutic treatments to patients. In addition, stocks of dermo-cosmetic products held by wholesalers, distributors and pharmacists were generally sufficient to absorb consumer demand.  

As a precautionary measure, and in line with its forward-looking risk management plan, the Group's IT system was immediately put on standby on March 31 to prevent the virus from spreading. Customers, partners and health authorities were kept regularly informed of the situation, and a complaint was lodged after the attack was claimed.

As part of the remediation operations, all the Group's IT systems and media have been reviewed to verify or restore their integrity, and to reinforce their security.  

VPI unveils an atypical spray cap for the MCM perfume

site-industries-cosmetiques McCartney Capot.

MCM, the German luxury leather goods brand (licensed by InterParfums USA), has entrusted VPI with the launch of its latest unisex fragrance.
VPI (Faiveley Plast Beauty) took on the challenge of designing and developing a perfume cap with a unique design, inspired by the Stark bag, one of the MCM brand's iconic leather pieces.

"A fragrance that travels, like a handbag". 

This was the original proposal that inspired the InterParfums and MCM teams, and which was brought to life thanks to VPI's expertise. 
For this ambitious project, VPI developed a spray cap with a two-piece cover (a cap and a push-button) galvanized in Gold, before adding an inner part and a handle.
The inside has a spring function (metal-free) which ensures that the push-button returns to its initial position, in perfect alignment with the cap. 
VPI's teams worked on a combination of engraving and texture to create a beautiful leather look for the injected soft-material handle. A successful development that enabled it to be assembled on the cap and held perfectly, elegantly, so as to carry the bottle by the handle. 

This perfume cap demanded a high degree of technical mastery. A real challenge for VPI, of which we are very proud. " emphasizes Béryl Trentin, Key Account Manager at VPI.

The Spray cap is available in 3 sizes: 30 ml - 50 ml - 75 ml. Available in MCM boutiques and online. Worldwide launch in April 2021.

Riverpack commits to women employees in China with the support of Chanel

site-industries-cosmetiques Chanel shopping bags with Riverpack support to employees in China.

Riverpack, a company committed to CSR issues, has designed and implemented a multi-year program to promote gender equality and support the empowerment of women at its paper bag production site in China.

Paper bags are assembled by hand at Riverpack's site, primarily by women. Female employees are generally exposed to quality of life and health and safety issues that are specific to them. These issues are also specific to the geographical and socio-cultural location of a production site.

In line with Riverpack's strong awareness of the importance of CSR, in particular societal CSR, and its commitment to gender equality, the desire to work on a program targeting the quality of life at work for women in the factory in China was obvious. Designed with the support of Chanel, and led by Alexandre Fontaine, Corporate Social Responsibility Manager at Riverpack, the program was developed in close cooperation with the field teams in China.

The health of female employees is a key priority: The program was designed with the support of BSR, Business for Social Responsibility, a strategic partner of Chanel in the consideration of gender issues in the supply chain. The objective of BSR's HERhealth approach is to train women employees in factories on issues related to family planning, reproductive and maternal health (contraception, pregnancy, pre/post-natal care), disease prevention (HIV, breast cancer, etc.), their quality of life and their health and safety at work (high-risk jobs unsuitable for pregnant women).

The program began in early 2019 with a diagnostic to assess women's knowledge of their own health. The goal was then to advance their knowledge based on the principle of peer to peer learning. Of just over 200 women out of the 500 employees at the plant, 12 voluntarily signed up as Peer Health Educators (PHEs) to attend an 18-hour training course provided by BSR over a period of 6 months. With the support of the management, who were made aware and involved, each of them then set about training 20 to 30 of their colleagues during monthly sessions, enabling them to develop the knowledge of nearly 200 employees, including male volunteers, on health and safety issues and the quality of life of women at work, and on gender equality.

The trainings were relayed on site by dynamic communication from the plant's management and CSR manager: posting of information and events, expression forums, dashboards, supervision and support of PHEs in the animation of a specially dedicated WeChat network... This pro-active dissemination of information made it possible to quickly establish a constructive dialogue with employees on gender equality issues, which is intended to continue beyond the end of the program in June 2021 and to become permanently anchored in the site's managerial culture.

Concrete and measurable results: in order to measure the positive impact of this project, indicators have been defined and monitored in order to draw up a medium to long-term assessment of the progress made and the benefits obtained. The level of knowledge of employees about their health, their ability to take care of themselves, their level of personal consideration are all factors that improve their well-being and therefore their motivation, their responsibility and their commitment. The monitoring of these indicators correlated with a decrease in absenteeism and turnover over the course of the program, demonstrating the importance of human capital development at the site.

Inspiring and egalitarian managerial practices: on the strength of the findings and positive results obtained by the HERhealth approach, the collaboration with BSR was extended in April 2020 to the deployment of a pilot HERmanagement program, developed with the support of Chanel. The objective of the program is to increase the awareness of the site's management to issues related to gender equality, which will ultimately promote the integration and professional development of female employees. Based on in-depth questionnaires and collaborative sessions between employees and management, the program resulted in an action plan to further strengthen gender equality in internal procedures and protocols.

"At Riverpack, the teams are convinced that recognition and education are key factors in the emancipation of women, gender equality and equal opportunities. The indicators we have been monitoring for the past two years, such as absenteeism and turnover rates, are concrete proof of the quality of the dialogue established, of the work and of the progress made towards greater professional equality. And this is thanks, among other things, to clear, regular and transparent communication between employees, site management and the company: the mutual benefits are immense and we are very proud of the progress made.says Frédéric Poinas, general manager of Riverpack.

"Within the AFD Group, Riverpack's parent company, the CSR approach is historical and mature. Riverpack has demonstrated this through its recent EcoVadis assessment, with Platinum status. It was essential for us to go even further and fully exercise our social responsibility. This is a strong expectation of the Chanel House, with regard to its preferred suppliers. The HER project is a great challenge, which we are keen to take up through concrete actions: to be in the DOING rather than in the SAYING. It is more delicate, more time-consuming, since it concerns the human being. We are grateful to the House of Chanel for having trusted us to lead this project, and especially happy to show our consideration for our employees, by contributing to an individual quality of life at work, which radiates on a collective scale.says Pierre Fayard, President of the AFD Group.

"CSR is in our DNA, underlines Frédéric Poinas. CSR issues are an integral part of our corporate strategy, which has been formalized and steered for the past three years by Alexandre Fontaine, Corporate Social Responsibility Manager, joined by Alexandra Fayard. Recently graduated in Land Economy from Cambridge University, her knowledge in environmental economics and law will support the international development of AFD Group's activities and Riverpack in particular, while limiting their impact. Our vision of CSR is naturally reflected in a sustainable approach to packaging, right from the design stage: certified paper from responsibly and sustainably managed forests, paper incorporating a proportion of recycled fibres, cords and ribbons made from bio-based and renewable materials, replacement of lamination with water-based protective varnish, etc. At Riverpack, however, we approach CSR well beyond the material approach and consider in depth the social and societal impact of our activity within the local industrial fabric. It is this shared vision with Chanel, for whom we are a privileged partner, that brought us together and pushed us to go even further with the implementation of a project centered on the women employed within our production site in China.

"The plant's CSR manager himself distributes information brochures on the measures available, rights and recourse, and the health establishments and contacts accessible nearby. It is gratifying to see, through the testimonies, the usefulness and even more so, the crucial importance of this approach, which motivates us all.notes Frédéric Poinas.

Shiseido and Dolce&Gabbana: partial termination of the agreement

site-industries-cosmetiques Dolce & Gabbana agreement partially terminated.

Shiseido Company, Limited and Dolce&Gabbana jointly announce that they have entered into a partial termination of their beauty license agreement subject to closing conditions.

This change, which is the result of a strategic agreement between the parties, will be effective on December 31, 2021 for all markets and all activities except those carried out from France.

Beauté Prestige International S.A.S. is currently considering a proposal from Dolce&Gabbana to conclude the licensing activities carried out from France by the end of this year and to continue the production and distribution of Dolce&Gabbana beauty products, on a worldwide basis, for a minimum period of 12 months starting January 1, 2022. Local consultation processes with French employee representatives have been launched accordingly.

This decision to partially terminate the agreement out of court is in line with Shiseido's medium-to-long-term strategy "Win 2023 and Beyond.

Shiseido and BPI entered into the -Dolce&Gabbana licensing agreement in October 2016. BPI is responsible for the Shiseido Group's fragrance business.

Photo: screen capture of the site dolcegabbanabeauty.com/en/parfums/ © DR

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