According to an Ifop study for Alliance Healthcare conducted in September 2018, skin problems affect 93 % of women. For 92 % of them, a facial that works would be a source of well-being. To meet this need, Alliance Healthcare France is launching YourGoodSkin, its new facial skincare range for all skin types, developed in collaboration with over 2,000 women and 50 scientific experts and dermatologists. The range will be available exclusively in pharmacies. Corinne Morel, Digital and Retail Marketing Director at Alliance Healthcare France, comments on this decision: "We are convinced of the importance of personalized advice from the pharmacist, an expert in the field, in choosing the best skincare routine for your skin. The development of the YourGoodSkin skincare range is based on an unprecedented co-creation process with an exclusively female community, in collaboration with renowned experts. This is a first in the world of dermocosmetics, a new era in the treatment of skin imperfections," says Corinne Morel. The range features 18 products that enable customers to choose the ritual best suited to their skin type and specific needs, in 4 key stages designed to prepare, balance, protect and treat the skin.
Aptar is committed to sustainable development
Keen to develop more sustainable packaging that meets the needs of its customers, it is now stepping up its activities in this area to help them achieve increasingly ambitious targets.
Limiting the impact of packaging on the planet
By 2025, 65 % of all packaging waste in the EU will have to be reusable or recyclable*. With this in mind, Aptar offers environmentally-friendly solutions by working on energy management issues (ISO 50001 standard), landfill-free certifications and product life-cycle assessment.
Particular attention is paid to the circular economy, which allows materials to be recycled rather than destroyed. And to support
As part of this ongoing commitment to responsible production, in 2012 Aptar set up a working group to develop and design ever more effective, eco-friendly packaging, using recyclable materials such as PP/PE for the Micro and Mezzo airless pump bottle ranges, and low energy consumption.
Innovating for greater eco-responsibility
Constantly on the lookout for suppliers and materials capable of replacing standard fossil resins, the Group has turned to post-consumer resins (PCR), post-industrial resins (PIR) and bio-plastics tested at its R&D centers. The former is a blend of recycled resins that would otherwise have become municipal waste. The second is a blend of recycled resins from industrial waste. The latter are derived from organic raw materials and carbohydrate-rich plants, such as corn, sugarcane or their waste products. Aptar has also recently launched the first dispensing system made from bio-based material, the GSA bio pump, as well as closures and other packaging made from PCR resin.
Mezzo Eco, the new airless in recycled and recyclable plastic
To continue to innovate, digging the furrow of the circular economy and thus offering several life cycles to its containers, Aptar is today launching Mezzo Eco, an airless pump bottle designed for facial skincare and foundation products. 100% recyclable (pump included) and made from
25% of recycled resins, it contains no metal or silicone parts, and has been awarded the Ecocert label. This more efficient use of resources means lower costs and less waste, and a further step towards virtuous, eco-friendly packaging management.
Verescence announces the arrival of Stirling Square Capital Partners as a new shareholder
Verescence, world leader in glass bottles for the perfume and cosmetics industries, today announced the arrival of Stirling Square Capital Partners, a pan-European investment company, as a new shareholder in the group.
With over 120 years of glassmaking expertise, Verescence is a privileged partner of the leading brands in the beauty industry. Verescence produces 500 million bottles a year at its 3 glass production sites and 4 finishing sites in Europe and North America. In 2018, Verescence employed 2,300 people worldwide and generated sales of 305 million euros.
"We are delighted with the arrival of Stirling Square Capital Partners as a new shareholder in the group, which will enable us to accelerate our international deployment and launch our new corporate project Verescence 2022 - Forming the future. This project is accompanied by a massive 122 million euro investment plan", comments Thomas Riou, President of Verescence.
"Verescence is the leader in its market and the preferred partner of the most prestigious brands. We are delighted to join forces with Thomas Riou and his teams, to pursue the path of operational excellence, accelerate innovation programs and develop our global presence", says Julien Horreard, Partner at Stirling Square Capital Partners.
PolymerExpert presents its EMC30 oil gelling agent
At the forthcoming InCosmetics Global show, PolymerExpert will be presenting its new, easy-to-use oil gelling agent.
Since 2017, PolymerExpert has been offering an oil gelling agent with extraordinary properties: EstoGel M. This polymer must be solubilized under high temperature conditions to reveal its optimal properties.
PolymerExpert now offers a ready-to-use raw material, EMC30, making this product available to everyone. This natural 97% solution can be used to formulate oily gels at temperatures as low as 80°C, ensuring all the properties that EstoGel M brings to formulas.
The main advantage of the EMC30 is its ease of use at 80°C.
EMC30 is a gelling agent of natural origin, bio-sourced at over 97%. It has been developed for polar to moderately polar oils. It offers numerous formulation advantages: from transparency, suspensivity, viscosity and thixotropy to anhydrous gels, with little impact on final cost.
INCI: Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer & Caprylic Capric Tryglycerides
The EMC30 will be on display in the Innovation Zone.
Anjac Health & Beauty accelerates international expansion with the acquisition of Catalan company Laboratoires Feltor
The industrial group Anjac Health & Beauty (specialized in the formulation, manufacturing and packaging of cosmetics, medical devices, drugs and food supplements) has taken another step in its development by making a major acquisition. Feltor Laboratories (€40M turnover) manufactures high quality dermo-cosmetic products, pharmaceuticals and medical devices on an FDA certified site. This international acquisition completes the premium offer proposed by the group.
After recently acquiring the companies Aircos, Pascual Cosmetics and Innovi, ANJAC Health & Beauty continues its development and confirms its ambition to build a group composed of companies with strong added values. Indeed, each company that joins the group brings its unique know-how and its capacity for innovation.
By adopting this entrepreneurial strategy, Anjac Health & Beauty intends to consolidate its position as a major industrial player at the forefront of innovation.
"Feltor Laboratories intelligently completes the portfolio of expertise and products already owned by Anjac Health & Beauty, while allowing us to integrate the Spanish market" says Aurélien Chaufour, General Manager of Anjac Health & Beauty.
Feltor Laboratories, one of the leaders in the Spanish cosmetics sector
Recognized on their market, Feltor Laboratories, whose DNA is perfectly aligned with that of Anjac Health & Beauty, have demonstrated a strong potential for development. The two companies complement each other through their industrial excellence, their expertise in dermo-cosmetics and their ability to innovate.
Established in the Barcelona area since 1981, Feltor Laboratories initially focused on the production of cosmetics for mothers/children and athletes. Since then, the Catalan company has expanded its production to dermo-cosmetics, pharmaceutical specialties for topical use (gels, lotions, shampoos, moisturizers, sun creams, anti-aging creams, insect repellents, anti-lice products) and medical devices (nasal sprays, vaginal mucosa care and gels for medical equipment), which are distributed in Spain and internationally.
Feltor Laboratories have specific know-how in premium products elaborated for high-end dermo-cosmetic brands. The Catalan manufacturer places great importance on quality and has numerous certifications (ISO9001, ISO14000, OHSAS18001, GMP, etc.). Feltor Laboratories recently passed an audit by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which opened the doors to the American market.
True to its convictions, Anjac Health & Beauty confirms that the management of the company, as well as the managerial and operational teams, will remain in place. These employees are indeed key resources to continue the growth of Feltor Laboratories, and to promote exchanges between the companies already present within the Group.
A dynamic start to the year
"Our ambition is to transform the business of industrial subcontracting by expanding our service offering towards our customers, in order to enhance our capacity for innovation and our position as an expert in the sector" says Aurélien Chaufour. After an acquisition in 2017, then two new ones in 2018, Anjac Health & Beauty demonstrates at the beginning of this year its will to continue its sustained entrepreneurial momentum. According to Aurélien Chaufour, "Anjac Health & Beauty is working on various projects to accelerate the pace of its acquisitions in France and internationally for the year 2019."
Anjac Health & Beauty carefully selects its acquisition projects of companies with new and complementary expertise, in order to complete its offer and strengthen the Group's positioning.
Gattefossé launches its new W/O emulsifier at in-cosmetics global
To meet growing consumer demand for natural suncare and make-up products, Gattefossé has accepted a challenge and will be presenting a new ingredient at in-cosmetics global Paris.
Gattefossé drew on its solid expertise in lipid chemistry to develop Emulium Illustro, an innovative water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifier of natural origin, designed primarily for formulas containing pigments. Derived from a patented technology based on polyglycerol esters, Emulium® Illustro meets consumers' expectations and formulators' requirements in terms of performance and flexibility.
Uncompromising naturalness
Emulium Illustro has demonstrated superior performance and stability to other W/O emulsifiers on the market.
Flexible, easy to formulate and cold-applied, this new ingredient creates fluid textures that are comfortable on the skin, providing a soft touch and a feeling of hydration.
Particularly interesting in make-up and suncare formulations, Emulium Illustro can also be used to formulate original skin care textures.
"We worked for six years to find a lipid composition that would provide a concrete solution to the problems associated with formulating natural W/O emulsions. We selected three raw materials which underwent esterification followed by interesterification. The combination of a polyglycerol-6 grade containing little free glycerol with 12-hydroxystearic and ricinoleic acids has resulted in a flexible structure capable of stabilization without co-emulsifiers. The unsaturated chain adds fluidity to the emulsion, resulting in textures that are easy to spread. Maxime Nollet, engineer specializing in lipid chemistry at Gattefossé.
"Guided by experts in make-up formulation, we placed pigments at the heart of research from day one. Emulsions were built around pigments, taking into account different types of coating as well as uncoated ingredients. We challenged Emulium Illustro through a battery of tests to explore it from every angle: compatibility with cosmetic ingredients, stability, sensoriality and clinical evaluation. We also developed several formulas to demonstrate its benefits in make-up, sun care and skin care. Our natural foundation was evaluated by a panel of consumers accustomed to using foundations with silicones. The volunteers were delighted not only by the product's performance, but also by the way their bare skin looked after use. This is the greatest reward we could have expected." Malorie Duvent, formulation engineer at Gattefossé.
French cosmetics sector exports 14.5 billion euros, confirming its role as world leader
In 2018, the excellence and innovation of the French cosmetics industry were reflected in exports that passed the 14.5 billion euro mark (+6.3% on 2017). The sector posted a positive trade balance of 11.2 billion euros, up nearly 6.6% on 2017. The sector maintains its place on the podium of French export champions after aeronautics and wines and spirits.
Once again, the value of exports exceeds the sector's sales on the French market.
EU, Asia and North America remain top-performing zones
- In the European Union, export growth remains strong, with an increase of 4.5%. The biggest increases were in Spain (+8.5%) and Italy (+7.2%). The outcome of the Brexit negotiations is eagerly awaited by the sector, as the UK is the second EU country (after Germany) to which France exports the most (over 1 billion euros, with an increase of 3%).Outside the EU, Russia's increase was 17.8%.
Although Europe is already a mature market, and French products already have a strong presence there, the attractiveness and safety of our products means that we can continue to increase our exports. - Exports to Asia continue to grow, with an increase of 16.6% in 2018 and growth in excess of 20% in China (+22.7%) and Singapore (+24%). More than 20% of French products now go to Asia, representing more than 2.6 billion euros.
- North America posted a 6.8% increase in exports, with a 5.7% rise in exports to the United States. This country remains the second most important destination for our global exports. South and Central America remain stable.
- In the Near and Middle East region, exports fell slightly by 2.1% (with Saudi Arabia down 6.2%), closely linked to changes in oil prices.
- For the Africa zone, the situation is contrasted: West Africa is up with +16.8%, while Central and Southern Africa is down by 6.8%. North Africa was also down (-3.7%), mainly due to Algeria blocking imports.
"French cosmetics continue to play a leading role worldwide. Admired for its excellence, it is innovating more than ever to meet consumers' new demands for well-being: in the quality and safety of formulations, the personalization of products and environmental commitment" declares Patrick O'Quin, President of the French Federation of Beauty Companies (FEBEA).
Champion categories maintain their momentum
Skincare products and perfumes still account for 3⁄4 of French cosmetics exports: respectively 45% for skincare and 22% for perfumes.
Other champion categories included :
- Make-up continues to gain momentum, with exports up (by 4.8% for lip make-up and 3.7% for eye make-up),
- Hair preparations increased by 7.5% and shampoos by 5.8%.
Pharmacosmetech : 1st exhibition of services, equipment and processes for the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, for perfumery and for fine chemistry
Pharmacosmetech will be held from April 2 to 4, 2019 at the Parc des Expositions in Chartres. A strategic location, since the region is home to the "Cosmetic Valley" and a pharmaceutical industry with a strong presence between Dreux, Chartes and Rouen, and on a Rouen/Orléans axis that concentrates over 42% of related industrial activities nationwide.
The concept convinced the 2 emblematic associations of the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries: Cosmetic Valley and Polepharma*. As partners in the show, they saw the opportunity to bring together in a single venue the industries that concern them.
Over 300 exhibitors are expected at this first event which will bring together manufacturers and distributors of materials, equipment and services for the pharmaceutical, cosmetics, perfumery and fine chemicals industries, as well as players meeting the production, maintenance, logistics, safety and environmental needs of production sites in these industrial sectors. The show is primarily aimed at decision-makers and direct specifiers from operational departments: senior pharmacists, production/manufacturing managers, maintenance, technical, QHSE, new works, logistics, design/methods offices, instrumentation, formulation, laboratories, etc.
This first edition confirms a formula that has already proved its worth Even.pro's mission: to organize a trade event that is as close as possible to the industries and audiences it targets. The organizer Even.pro reproduces the innovative concept of its SEPEM Industries trade shows launched in 2006: 30 regional editions in 12 years, between 400 and 750 exhibitors and between 3,600 and 7,500 visitors depending on the edition.
A complete range of expertise in 10 business categories
- Safety/Health/Environment
- Packaging/Packaging/Traceability
- Control/Measurement/Instrumentation
- Laboratory/Clean room
- Processes/Controls/Automation
- Subcontracting/Maintenance
- Raw materials/Additives
- Services/Engineering/Training/IT
- Industrial equipment/Industrial buildings
- Handling/Warehousing/Logistics
Exclusive conferences
In addition to the many technologies and industrial innovations presented at the show, Pharmacosmetech will be offering an exclusive program of conferences (the conference program will be available shortly).
Free visitor services
Entrance, parking, checkroom - all the services offered at the show are free of charge. There are also free shuttle buses from Paris/Orly and Chartres SNCF station.
BPS and Manifesto Factory, subsidiaries of the Superga Group, develop a Full Service Cosmetic activity
BPS and Manifesto Factory, key players in the world of Beauty, announce the merger of their respective activities to create Superga Beauty.
The new entity will offer full-service solutions for the creation of fragrance, skincare and make-up ranges, drawing on their respective expertise in manufacturing, custom packaging and filling.
"Our expertise in the beauty industry, combined with the Superga Group's scale in the luxury world, enables us to offer niche brands tailor-made solutions for their perfume, skincare and make-up creation projects". explains Nathalie Dickeli-Duvoisin, Managing Director of Superga Beauty.
Superga Beauty's new ambitions
BPS, a subsidiary of the Superga Group (since 2011) which has 6 manufacturing, packaging and co-packing plants in the North of France, and Manifesto Factory, a subsidiary of the Superga Group (since 2013), are today developing a "full service" offer combining formulation, packaging development, manufacturing, filling and logistics.
This boost to the cosmetics market will enable Manifesto Factory and its sister company BPS to support beauty brands with global solutions for the creation of fragrances, skincare and make-up, and to open up new markets.
Turnkey solutions
Thanks to the expertise of both Manifesto Factory and Beauty Packaging Services (BPS) in packaging and co-packing, this high value-added service offering with turnkey solutions will enable Superga Beauty to become the only player with its own manufacturing and filling facilities.
" With the emergence and growing success of the Indies Brands, which are looking for suppliers to support them from the outset of their project, this new offering is set to expand rapidly. "emphasizes Nathalie Dickeli-Duvoisin.
Master the regulatory news of cosmetic products in 2019
COSMED is organizing a day devoted to French and European cosmetics regulations: Regulatory Meetings on Thursday, March 21 in Paris.
This event is an opportunity for all industry professionals to find out about the latest regulatory developments in the cosmetics sector, and to exchange views with regulatory authorities and experts.
The Rencontres Réglementaires are aimed at company directors, founders, regulatory affairs managers, R&D managers, formulators, toxicologists, quality engineers, marketers and responsible pharmacists.
To make it easier for all professionals to take part in the day's events, Cosmed is also making it possible for those who are unable to attend to follow the event live, from an office.
A day to master the latest regulatory developments in cosmetics:
- Control authorities' missions and annual reports
The 2018 inspection report, detailing recurring non-conformities, control points and areas for improvement, will be produced by Vanessa Picot - Cosmetics Inspector, Inspection Department - ANSM and Ambroise Pascal - Head of Office 5B, Health Products and Services - DGCCRF. The 2019 inspection campaigns will also be announced. In particular, the DGCCRF has alerted Cosmed to the need for increased vigilance on therapeutic claims, relations between subcontractors and Responsible Persons, and an interpretation of the specificities linked to "without" claims which could also be under consideration... - Work in progress and timetable of the European Commission's developments
Salvatore D'Acunto - Head of Unit GROW D.4 - European Commission will present the topics under discussion at the European Commission: allergen labeling, the omnibus regulation, animal testing and the availability of alternative methods, and the EC's strategy on Endocrine Disruptors. - CMR: REACH evaluation process leading to a harmonized, "omnibus" classification, impact on cosmetics supply and uses, substance update in the news
Constantin Dallot - Expert toxicologist and consultant - ATOUT REACH will provide practical answers to all the questions raised by the stages of CMR classification and the impact of publication of the omnibus regulation. - Safety report, presentation of COSMED Guidelines. The experts' view VS the authorities' expectations.
Good practices relating to safety assessment and the assessor will be presented in pairs by a safety assessor and a Responsible Person. Corinne Bonoliel - Dr. in Pharmacy, Microbiologist and Toxicologist ERT - Institut Scientis and Sandrine Hodonou - Dermocosmetics Regulatory Affairs Manager - Laboratoires Nigy will be detailing the Guidelines for Good Practice in cosmetics safety assessment published by Cosmed. The purpose of these guidelines is to clarify European regulatory requirements and propose a harmonized interpretation of certain points that are potentially open to interpretation.. - Good Manufacturing Practices, focus on quality management of raw materials and products packaging items...
This is a recurring non-compliance issue raised by the supervisory authorities.. Céline Colineaux - Consultant Manager - Strategiqual will detail the requirements to be met when receiving raw materials. - Brexit: Exit or transition phase, what impact?
With Brexit just 3 months away, and the latest vote in the UK Parliament having rejected the deal struck between Theresa May's government and Europe, all the impacts for the cosmetics industry will be addressed by Elodie Guenzi - Cosmetics Export Manager - London Office - Business France. - Labelling case studies: Practical impossibilities, updating the INCI list by rapport au glossaire, allegations, DIY, e-commerce Stéphanie Garrel - Regulatory Affairs Manager - COSMEDwill take stock of the main issues raised by Cosmed members concerning cosmetics labeling: lack of space, differences between sales networks, practical impossibility, DIY (CLP...), glossary of ingredients...
- Cosmetic applications: deciphering their success, their future, possible options for industry. Jean Marc Giroux - President - COSMEDwill conclude the day on applications
Rencontres Réglementaires Paris : Comité National Olympique et Sportif Français - 1 avenue Pierre de Coubertin - France 75013 Paris
