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Elsi bets on clean beauty

Cosmetic industry - Product

At the end of a start-up competition organized by Club 600, the start-up Elsi, which has just launched its first product on the American market, was awarded 1st prize by the jury, which praised its innovative, scientific and personalized approach to sensitive skin.
Born in California just over a year ago, Elsi targets sensitive skin, which accounts for over 50% of the US population.

The future of dermocosmetics

Elsi embodies a minimalist trend that advocates fewer, but high-quality ingredients, and greater transparency for consumers too. "Elsi was born of the realization that there are many innovations today that allow us to use cleaner ingredients, better for the environment and more respectful of the cutaneous microbiome, those good bacteria we have on our skin. Rather than adding more and more ingredients, we have decided to remove all superfluous ones and keep only the essential ones, in order to optimize our formulas as much as possible" comments Dr. Elsa Jungman, French entrepreneur based in San Francisco, Founder and CEO of Elsi, who is the first woman to receive this award. "Our first moisturizing serum, launched in May 2019, which contains just 3 ingredients, has already been ordered in over 40 US states. There's a real plebiscite for products that are gentler on the skin."

The Stitch Fix of beauty

Elsi's ambition is to become the "Stitch Fix of beauty". The startup plans to collect data, based on user feedback and the skin microbiome, which will enable it to offer subscription-based products tailored and optimized for sensitive skin. "We are in the midst of raising funds to develop a personalized subscription-based offering. This award marks a new stage in our development and is a great encouragement to continue this adventure "adds Elsa Jungman, who took part in The Refiners acceleration program at the end of 2018.

About Elsi :

Elsi offers a personalized, scientific solution for sensitive skin, developing products that are clean, minimalist (10 ingredients maximum), fragrance- and preservative-free, and based on formulas that respect the skin's microbiome. Founder Elsa Jungman holds a doctorate in cutaneous pharmacology, and has been involved for the past ten years in various research projects on the interaction of products with the skin, both in France and the United States. In particular, she has worked for L'Oréal in Advanced Research. A French entrepreneur based in San Francisco since 2015, Elsa took part in The Refiners accelerator program at the end of 2018. Founded a year ago, Elsi has just launched its first moisturizing serum in May 2019, available for the time being in the United States.

Cosmetic Valley presents the first edition of the Consumer Safety & Cosmetics Congress

Cosmetic Valley - Perrine Laffont

While the performance of cosmetics is essential, their safety is just as important for consumers, who are increasingly seeking information on the composition and manufacture of the products they use. How can we reassure them and provide them with the guarantees they demand? Are the data provided sufficiently complete and effective to reassure them? What about the new beauty applications that have recently appeared? 

These are the questions Cosmetic Valley aims to answer with its new conference Consumer Safety & Cosmetics - Innovating for Consumer Safety. Safety is a strategic challenge for the French perfume and cosmetics industry which creates ever more effective products that consumers can use in complete safety. It is one of core values of Brand France that the competitiveness cluster defends and promotes. Finally, safety is an important a source of innovation and differentiation for French industry in a highly competitive international market.

This 1st edition of the Consumer Safety & Cosmetics conference "This will enable us to bring together all our skills and expertise across the entire product value chain: product materials, formulation, skin/product interactions, processes, packaging, supply chain... 

Four major themes will be addressed:
- Safety of incoming raw materials
- Responsible packaging and safety
- Ultra-clean cosmetics
- Beauty applications: a guarantee for the consumer (round table) 

https://www.safety-cosmetics.com

June 19 & 20, 2019 
Location: Le Vaudreuil, Normandy
Pavillon des Aulnes - 27 Rue Bernard Chédeville - 27100 LE VAUDREUIL 

GM Group and Jo Malone London launch new line of hospitality products for luxury hotels worldwide

Jo Malone - Hotel

GM Group, an international player in the hotel hospitality sector, has signed a partnership with the prestigious lifestyle brand Jo Malone London. This collaboration will allow GM Group to offer guests around the world a new range of luxury hospitality products.
This line was named "Lime Basil & Mandarin", in reference to the brand's signature scent. Peppery basil and white thyme give an unexpected effect to the scent of limes, carried by the Caribbean breeze.
Jo Malone London is a British lifestyle brand known for its simple yet elegant fragrances with unexpected ingredients. The brand's timeless fragrances invite discovery: they are carefully designed to be worn alone or in combination for a personal fragrance signature.
Jo Malone London encourages the spirit of giving by celebrating sharing and helping you find the perfect gift for a loved one. The quintessential British brand is now present in exceptional locations in 64 countries.

Laurent Marchand, President of GM Group, said: "We are delighted to add the renowned Jo Malone London brand to our catalog. The timeless fragrance and elegance of the house will meet the increasingly demanding expectations of travelers. This new partnership will allow our clients to offer a unique experience to their guests. We look forward to launching this new line of refined hospitality products in hotels around the world."

 The new product line includes generous 40 ml and 75 ml bottles of foaming gel, shampoo, conditioner and moisturizing milk. It is complemented by 30g and 50g body and hand soaps. Jo Malone London hospitality products will be available in five and six star hotels around the world through GM Group's network of distributors.

The FEBEA reveals two new studies on the socio-economic impact and attractiveness of French cosmetics

Eiffel Tower - Getty Images

 On the occasion of its annual general meeting, the FEBEA (Fédération des Entreprises de la beauté) unveiled a macro-economic study carried out by the economic research and consultancy firm Asterès on the cosmetics sector in France: weight of players, territorial presence, investment in innovation, jobs created. At a time when French industry is stagnating and growth remains sluggish, the study presented by Nicolas Bouzou demonstrates that the cosmetics sector is indeed an exceptional one, one of the few where France is world leader. The study is complemented by an analysis from CH2 Conseil, highlighting the global reach of the sector's assets, linked to France's cultural and emotional heritage. Both studies highlight the sector's resilience in the face of emerging consumer trends (local, ecological, home-made, digital) and cosmetics brands from other "cultures", such as those from Asia or Brazil. 

Family-owned and regional businesses make up the 3ème exporting sector 

The Asterès study was able to reassess the rare and emblematic weight of a truly industrial success story, from upstream to downstream. With a network of family-run companies (82% are single family-owned) based in the regions (67% are regional), the cosmetics industry has succeeded in conquering the world and raising France's profile. With annual exports of €14 billion, cosmetics manufacturing is the 3rd largest contributor to France's trade balance. Highly efficient in R&D, production and distribution, these companies are competitive at every level of the industry, and without the support of public authorities or major export contracts, which, compared to other sectors, is what sets them apart. They are at the heart of France's industrial fabric, with sales of 45 billion euros for the sector as a whole, including 24 billion euros generated by manufacturers, and generate 246,000 jobs, including 164,000 direct jobs in France, 80% of which are located in the regions. 

As the most innovative sector, the cosmetics industry also contributes to France's "soft power". 

R&D in the cosmetics industry is the most efficient in France, with 3.6 patents filed per million euros spent on R&D. In addition to these investments, French excellence is based on cosmetic know-how and the quality of training, on the long-term vision of family-run businesses, and on the strength of the "France brand". As a result, French companies are world leaders with 23% of market share, and growing steadily: exports increased by 5% per year between 2010 and 2018. The entire industry is competitive, with French companies generating an average of 60% of their sales abroad. Exporting to all markets, cosmetics companies play a key role in the French cosmetics industry. soft power and our country's attractiveness to tourists. The "France" brand, by conveying the image of a high-end, quality industry adapting to new societal expectations, makes it possible to increase the value of a cosmetic product by an average of around 30% compared with an equivalent product from another country. 

The cosmetics industry must be supported to maintain its leadership and its contribution to our economy. 

As emphasized in the study carried out by CH2 Conseil on the attractiveness of the French cosmetics industry abroad, French cosmetics are strong on quality products, innovation and a powerful imagination. But it must also be able to evolve in the face of the very real challenges posed by companies and brands such as K beauty (South Korea) or J beauty (Japan), growing competition from China and now Italy, where public authorities are investing massively to develop dynamic cosmetics ecosystems. Last but not least, new creative and digital brands (such as the "indies" targeting millenials), and societal trends such as the quest for meaning, a return to the local, and the ecologization of practices, represent new challenges. 

As Patrick O'Quin, Chairman of the FEBEA, points out, "France's cosmetics companies have created an exceptional industry. They are now looking for political support on both the domestic and export markets, as well as support on regulatory issues, in order to maintain their position as world leaders. Support for 'made in France' must also apply to the cosmetics industry. 

Aluminium, an infinitely recyclable material, at the heart of sustainable thinking at G.Pivaudran

Cosmetics industry - Business

g.pivaudran, market leader in aluminium components for perfumery and cosmetics, exhibited at the "Edition Spéciale By Luxe Pack" trade show in Paris.

As a committed player in the environmental movement, g.pivaudran is pushing back the frontiers of aluminum for an ever more sustainable material. "We've been very active at g.pivaudran for several years now, and we consider aluminum to be a material at the heart of our sustainable development approach," emphasizes Marc Pivaudran.

Towards a new way of thinking about luxury product packaging

Infinitely recyclable, aluminum is a natural mineral that is inherently sustainable. Currently using only the purest form of the metal, g.pivaudran's sustainable development strategy is to consider the integration of recycled aluminum into the responsible luxury sector. 99.85%: this is the current purity level of the aluminum used by g.pivaudran to meet the requirements of the luxury goods industry," explains Marc Pivaudran. Together with our supplier, we have undertaken a series of discussions and technical tests to ascertain the extent to which it would be appropriate to integrate recycled aluminum into the deep-drawn parts we produce, without altering the possibilities offered by this material in terms of shaping. The first challenge is not to lose any of aluminum's mechanical qualities". The second challenge is to get luxury brands to commit to new product developments that will increasingly take "recycled" into account.

A local win-win commitment: a responsible production initiative  

Locally, the company has implemented a responsible waste policy on its production lines and in all its offices, and treats its effluents directly at its two sites in Souillac in the Lot region: "Back in the 90s, we set up a wastewater treatment plant to treat effluents from our anodizing lines at source. For the past 3 years, this treated effluent has been sent to the Souillac wastewater treatment plant for a second treatment: it turns out that, through physico-chemical synergy, integrating our discharges enables us to improve the treatment of the town's wastewater, thus obtaining higher-quality discharges". In the space of four years, we have reduced our energy consumption by 30%. At the same time, we have halved our water consumption. "Today, we recycle all our production waste, and we're proud of that," says Marc Pivaudran.
A highly rewarding initiative for the company, the municipality and the environment.

Erpro Group expands its business sector with investment in Silinnov, a specialist in silicone processing

Cosmetic industry - Industry

Erpro Group, a leader in additive manufacturing, offers engineering, machining, plastic injection, molding and finishing services. The company today announced the acquisition of Silinnov, a company based near Valence in the Rhône-Alpes region, specializing in the transformation of silicones. This acquisition is a real boost to the company's growth strategy, and also meets a need for complementary prototyping and series manufacturing activities.

"2019 is a pivotal year in our development, and in order to step up our expansion we are carrying out targeted growth operations. It's in this context that Silinnov, with its technical expertise in the production of silicone parts, is joining us," says Cyrille Vue, CEO of Erpro Group.

TNT Global Manufacturing signs Penhaligon's Cairo black and gold box set

Perfume - Penhaligon's Cairo Eau de Parfum

 TNT Global Manufacturing has developed the Penhaligon's Cairo perfume box. The high-gloss black color, obtained by lacquering and gloss varnishing, enhances the gold embossing on the top and the crest. 

This design stands out from previous Water Transfer cases with its piano finish. TNT Global Manufacturing has optimized the varnishing process to achieve the desired quality/price ratio. 

 

Make-up for the visually impaired: Japan's unique example

Health - Cosmetic therapy

On the occasion of the forthcoming MakeUp in Paris show, and under the aegis of the Japanese group Nippon Shikizai, two workshops will be organized by the Japanese association "CareMake", which since its creation in 2010 by Ms Kaho Oishi, has been developing a method enabling blind people to apply make-up on their own. The first workshop will take place on June 20 at 4 p.m., and the second on June 21 at 3 p.m.

An update from Tsuyoshi Hasuo, President of Nippon Shikizai France and Thépenier Pharma & Cosmetics.

Tsuyoshi Hasuo: As a professional beautician, Ms. Oishi had been researching make-up for the elderly and the mobility-impaired since 2009. In the course of her work, she met visually impaired women who had developed a complex because they couldn't apply their own make-up. This prompted Ms. Oishi to look for a solution that would provide them with auditory information on the color of their make-up and the final result.
By letting beauticians apply their make-up and informing them about their gradual beauty enhancement, the type of accessories used for make-up and the color variations obtained, these visually-impaired women seemed to enjoy their transformation into beautiful women thanks to the oral indications provided.
They also seemed to have regained their self-confidence after hearing the admiring comments usually reserved for beautiful women, such as "magnificent", "superb" or "resplendent". This encouraged them to stop staying at home. Despite its success, this approach had its limits: while their make-up was impeccable immediately after application by the beauticians, the latter were of course unable to help them during the day with any touch-ups. Indeed, everyone knows that make-up doesn't stay in place during the day: lipstick fades with meals, make-up can't withstand the effects of perspiration, and it can be altered by rain and wind. Ms. Oishi sought to fundamentally change the way make-up was applied. She found it essential that these women should be able to apply their make-up themselves, rather than relying on others, because this approach could help their personal development.

But to do this, it was necessary to develop a particular method of applying make-up?

Tsuyoshi Hasuo: Back in 2010, Ms. Oishi developed a set of make-up techniques, a prototype for "blind make-up", a technique enabling visually impaired women to apply make-up to their faces without using a mirror. She set out to create a set of rational, effective make-up techniques, with the main aim of course being the end result, i.e. natural, well-balanced make-up. This research led to the creation of a 10-step routine for complete face make-up: liquid foundation, powder foundation, eyelash curler, mascara, lipstick, eye shadow, eyeliner, eyebrow powder, blush and complexion enhancers. These different steps made it possible to achieve "blind" make-up, thanks to a well-organized and effective application of products without the use of a mirror. There are two effective make-up techniques: one aims to shorten the time spent on make-up, while the second, called "natural make-up", seeks to enhance facial features. What makes these two techniques unique is the fact that powder foundation is placed directly on the fingers and then smoothed with the fingertips until the product is evenly distributed on each finger, then applied to the parts of the face on which make-up will be applied. This make-up application is completed by placing the fingers of the left hand on the left side of the face and the fingers of the right hand on the other side, then rubbing each side using symmetrical movements, speed and pressure. Symmetrical use of each finger helps to shorten make-up time.

If you want to apply lipstick, first place it on the tips of your pinkie fingers, then apply it to your lips. Starting from the center of the upper lip, the red is applied outwards, to the right and left, then from the corners of the lip to the center for the lower lip. To master this gesture, 10 to 20 hours of training are required.

The method has developed a lot in Japan?

Tsuyoshi Hasuo: To date, Mrs. Oishi has taught the method to around 200 visually impaired women nationwide, including in Tokyo and cities in Aichi Prefecture. The association also certifies trainers and offers practical training workshops. In January this year, for example, 10 people - mainly volunteers helping the visually impaired - were certified as trainers. The organization also aims to promote the method abroad.
At the end of 2016, there were around 340,000 visually impaired people in Japan. In many cases, it turned out that visually impaired women were reluctant to go out because they couldn't apply make-up properly.

During these two sessions, Ms. Oishi will come in person to MakeUp in Paris to explain her method.

Cosfibel deploys its eco-design

Product design - Logo

Since the CARES program, historically dedicated to solidarity sourcing and ethics, the group's CSR policy has taken on its full scope. In this context, Cosfibel is systematizing a comprehensive eco-design program, some of whose models will be presented at Luxe Pack Special Edition.
At Cosfibel, the notion of CSR is a collegial value that has long been part of the group's DNA. Major projects include audits of partner factories to measure energy consumption, control fluids and recover and recycle production waste. Secondly, eco-design takes pride of place at the heart of the creation committee, to which is added the expertise of a committee specifically dedicated to CSR. Aware of the strategic stakes involved in this eco-citizen approach for brands, Cosfibel structures its research work. In the form of a database, it capitalizes on all the information and initiatives collected by the group's ecosystem on the environmental impact of products throughout their life cycle.

 Materials and processes

In its environmental approach, innovation is based on multiple criteria such as sourcing (proximity, impact of materials...), production methods (tooling, energy management...) and recyclability. In terms of materials, Cosfibel has historically worked with cardboard, paper, wood and even tin, which is recognized for its low carbon impact.
For its accessories and promotional luggage, for example, the group uses jute or recycled cotton as alternatives to plastic, and is thinking of exploiting fabric recovery channels in China or with its new Tunisian partner.
Stanislas Péronnet, Cosfibel's Managing Director, explains: "We invest to create products that tell a story, mastered from A to Z, based on the best compromise between aesthetics, cost and function. Our constant search for sources of eco-friendly materials and the various possible applications enables us to push our expertise ever further. Our openness and international network give us a real advantage in this respect.

Eco-preview

Cosfibel will be taking advantage of the Special Edition by Luxe Pack to present boxes modeling its eco-design approach. Key features include: material reduction, use of a single material, FSC and 100 % recyclability, water-based printing, European manufacturing...
With this in mind, innovation is put at the service of eco-design, in particular to replace plastic wedges with equally solid, recycled and recyclable paper/cardboard solutions, products that can be delivered flat, and ingenious closure systems that combine aesthetics and monomaterial.

An iconic lipstick at the heart of the 4th "Allmazing" platform contest

site-industries-cosmetiques A competition on the "Allmazing" platform to win an iconic lipstick.

The fourth edition of the contest organized by the online platform "Allmazing" created 2 years ago by Katia De Martino, Ceo of Essentia Beauty, has just ended. This year, the theme of the contest was: "Create a new iconic lipstick". Chloé Vincent, Emma Rochedix, Clémence Cornaert, all three students at the French school Esepac, as well as Rezziero di Maio from the Italian design school ISIA di Faenzah, have been awarded.

"Allmazing" was born from the intuition of Katia De Martino, an Italian-French entrepreneur, convinced of the potential of crowdsourcing as a source of inspiration, sharing and involvement of young designers. "The creation of the "Allmazing" platform is part of our desire to bring more and more creative added value to our customers", explains Katia de Martino, CEO of Essentia Beauty, a company with 20 years of experience in the development and manufacturing of private label cosmetics. "Allmazing" organizes creative contests mandated today by Essentia Beauty but also open to its customers. The goal? To bring out new talents at the origin of innovative projects in the field of fashion, beauty and design. Each contest, propelled on the web, takes the form of an event relayed in the press and on the social networks.
Here, the blogosphere takes the power by getting involved in the election of the best projects. An exciting adventure, in the heart of creation, where sharing dominates.

Create an innovative lipstick!

This fourth edition of the "Allmazing" contest, which was open to all creative people, had the objective of creating an innovative lipstick in terms of design or gesture. Participants were first asked to conduct a market analysis considering past achievements and future trends. Given the complexity of the evaluation of the different projects, Philippe Bonneyrat, an experienced packaging engineer in the beauty sector, was asked to evaluate the technical aspects of the projects in order to validate not only the aesthetics, but also the functionality and feasibility of the projects. The jury was composed this year of Sara Ravella, Executive Coach (former Director of Communication at L'Oréal), Jean-Marie Martin-Hattemberg, Expert at the Court of Appeal of Versailles, member of the International Perfume bottle (Association in the United States) and the French Perfumers' Society, Vincent Gallon, Editor of the Premium Beauty News website, and Katia de Martino, CEO of Essentia Beauty.

Awarded projects:

- "Paradise Bird" by Chloe Vincent, came in first for its very creative proposal in terms of design and use,

- "Totem" by Rezziero di Maio from the Italian School of Design ISIA di Faenzah who also proposed a very innovative design that combines several products.

- Emma Rochedix's "Click & Go" came in ex-aequo with Clémence Cornaert's "Click & Powder", both of them bringing functional innovation, all three coming from the Esepac School,

- "Totem" by Rezziero di Maio from the Italian School of Design ISIA di Faenzah who also proposed a very innovative design that combines several products.

Note that the winner received a check for 2,000 € and the three others a check for 500 €.
"The adhesion to this fourth edition of the competition "Allmazing" has been very positive, and the projects received have expressed creative capabilities and interesting and diverse innovations whether in terms of design, functionality and gestures," stressed Katia de Martino.

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