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Cosmetic Valley in force at In Cosmetics Global

Cosmetic Valley - Cosmetics industry

45 cluster companies will be showcasing their cutting-edge Made in France expertise in cosmetic ingredients and measurement.
Held this year in Amsterdam and dedicated to ingredients and raw materials for cosmetics, the In Cosmetics Global international trade show is one of the must-attend events for the perfumery-cosmetics industry: the global cosmetics ingredients market is worth $21.4 million, and is forecast to reach $26.8 billion by 2020!

France will once again be represented by Cosmetic Valley, whose ever-expanding pavilion will welcome 45 companies from all over France to an area of nearly 500 sq.m., offering exhibitors increased visibility, turnkey stands and the conviviality of a dynamic group. Notable innovations include the objectification of products by Bio-Ec laboratories in partnership with Laboratoire Genex, the launch of INBATA France's new "Stemprotect" active ingredient, and Orion Concept's measurement techniques for clinical studies.

A first: Laboratoire Bio-Ec's lecture on "Exploring the skin stressosome through an innovative approach", on its exclusive methods for studying the "stressosome" thanks to the combination of their histological and genomic expertise (Thursday April 19, 12.10pm, Theater 2).

Cosmetic Valley Pavilion: Hall 1 - Stand L49

Deinove launches Phyt-N-Resist, the first pure Phytoene dedicated to cosmetic care

Company - Industry

Deinove (Euronext Growth Paris: ALDEI), a biotechnology company that discovers, develops and produces high value-added compounds from rare bacteria, in particular from the Deinococcus genus, announces the official launch of its innovative carotenoid as a cosmetic active ingredient.
Phytoene is a colorless carotenoid obtained by fermentation of natural sugars by the extremophilic bacterium Deinococcus geothermalis.

Created by Deinove and composed of phytoene concentrated in refined jojoba oil, Phyt - N - Resist helps fight skin aging by reducing oxidative stress and accelerating skin regeneration.
Its efficacy and safety have been successfully demonstrated in in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies.
Various dermo-cosmetic formulations have been developed, demonstrating ease of formulation and satisfactory stability. Thanks to the high-temperature stability of this active ingredient, it could also be incorporated into make-up formulas.

A breakthrough innovation in active ingredients of natural origin:

Nature is an extraordinary laboratory, capable of designing high value-added molecules. Both skin cells and plants depend on a common substance to protect them from oxidative stress: Phytoene, the original precursor of all carotenoids. However, unlike plants, the skin is unable to synthesize it. Phytoene is therefore one of those essential molecules that must be supplied through the diet or other supplements.
Until now, there has been no way of extracting pure Phytoene, as none of the existing plant-based production processes can produce it. These processes only produce a mixture of less concentrated carotenoids with varying degrees of stability and coloration.
By harnessing the extraordinary resources of biomimicry and symbiosis, and taking full advantage of the potential of Deinococcus geothermalis, an extremophilic UV-resistant bacterium, Deinove has generated the bioproduction of pure Phytoene for the very first time.

Phyt-N-Resist: extensive anti-aging properties

Carotenoids are known for their anti-oxidant properties. Phyt-N-Resist has successfully demonstrated its ability to reduce the proportion of lipoperoxidation products appearing after cell exposure to UV radiation. Phytoene accumulates in cell membranes to prevent cellular degradation. By protecting lipid membranes from free radicals and peroxidation, Phyt-N-Resist helps to reduce the harmful consequences of oxidation and, ultimately, slow down skin ageing.
Deinove has taken this breakthrough approach a step further, by deploying a systematic, multi-dimensional screening process for its active ingredients. This comprehensive, innovative approach has enabled us to highlight a hitherto unexploited feature of the carotenoid family: stimulation of cell renewal. Skin cells are able to regenerate under the action of Phytoene.

These properties were subsequently confirmed by an in-depth clinical study, which proved conclusive in demonstrating the beneficial effect of Phtyoene on skin firmness and elasticity, as well as on radiance. What's more, Phyt - N - Resist has a marked anti-wrinkle action.
These properties make Phyt-N-Resist a complete anti-ageing active ingredient.

Emmanuel Petiot, CEO of Deinove, comments: "We are delighted to present Phyt-N-Resist, our first innovative carotenoid for cosmetic use. Our teams have done a remarkable job in bringing this project to fruition and launching our first commercial product on time. The contacts made so far with cosmetics players have proved conclusive, and we look forward to presenting it to the entire cosmetics industry in Amsterdam."

Greentech restores the balance of healthy skin to problematic skin

Skin - Human skin

Greentech's latest innovations focus on skin protection with a 360° approach: photo-protection with Soliberine, pollution protection with Urbalys, and microflora protection with Biotilys.
Today, Greentech takes care of problem skin, a major preoccupation for young people as well as adults, since the hormonal environment, pollution, stress and nutritional factors are all aggravating factors in the appearance of acne.
Acnilys, launched at In Cosmetics in April, is a multifunctional active ingredient of plant origin (Rhodomyrtus tomentosa berry), which acts on this physiopathology by intervening on all the pathways involved to prevent skin disorders and imperfections in oily skin.

A triple action restores their balance while playing:

- Prevention of hyperseborrhea: Acnilys regulates sebum production and inhibits 5-α-reductase activity.
- Limiting microbial proliferation :
Acnilys reduces P. acnes proliferation and its deleterious effects.
- Modulation of inflammation: Acnilys reduces the production of lipid mediators of inflammation induced by oxidized squalene.

The result? skin that's better moisturized, more radiant, finer-textured, even-toned without redness or blemishes, with a fresh, healthy look.

Xperience, 3 anti-stress and comforting treatments with Neurophroline

Cosmetic industry - perfume

The range Xperience  by Strand Cosmetics Europe comes in 3 complementary facial treatments: cleanser, serum and exfoliator, created to surprise, de-stress and comfort the skin.
Neurophroline, an extract of Tephrosia Purpurea seeds, blocks the production of cortisol, a major stress hormone, and releases relaxing neuropeptides (endorphins) in the skin, promoting natural stress relief.

Cloud Cleanser is a gentle facial cleanser to be applied in the morning. In contact with water, its texture transforms into a delicate foam that provides well-being and softness. Its formula contains Neurophroline noni extract, energizing and anti-aging, oats and sugar, soothing, moisturizing and detoxifying. CTL Tube givre 30ml.
Face Serum is an energizing serum, to be applied to clean facial skin morning or evening. Its formula is composed of Neurophroline, detoxifying, noni extract, energizing and anti-aging, oat and sugar, soothing, moisturizing and detoxifying, and coconut extract, detoxifying. TOLY airless pump bottle 15-20-30ml.
Sugar & Almond Scrub is an addictive purifying exfoliant, to be applied by gentle massage to damp skin, before rinsing, once or twice a week. Its formula contains Neurophroline detoxifying, noni extract energizing and anti-aging, oat and coconut extract soothing, moisturizing and detoxifying, shea and mango butter nourishing, sugar and almond shells exfoliating. Mino Gaillard 30ml jar.

 

Seram presents Aura, a range of connected gifts

Cosmetic industry - Product

Seram continues its development of connected products with the launch of Aura, a range of high-end gifts featuring NFC technology. The range includes kits, pouches, bracelets, key-rings and bottle wraps, available from the catalog or made-to-measure, with no minimum order quantity.
By integrating a digital identity with products, this innovative and intuitive concept gives brands the opportunity to establish a one-to-one B2C & C2C dialogue, with immediate impact, whatever the purpose:

- Authentication
- Traceability
- Information and advice
- Online shopping
- Sales outlet locations
- Video, streaming and augmented reality
- Access to chatbots, social networks and community animation

*Near Field Communication: is a simple, intuitive technology that enables all kinds of information about a product to be obtained from a smartphone.

As a reminder, the brand launched SMARTLACElast autumn, a lace decoration combined with patented visual recognition technology. An innovation made possible by image recognition expert Mypack. Available in 200 versions, SMARTLACE delivers a personalized message based on the variation of slight decorative details. Each product thus becomes a unique object, enabling brands to send ultra-personalized messages to their consumers as part of one-to-one communication, or for consumers to add and exchange their own content.

[video] Discover the next edition of CosmeticBusiness

Cosmetic industry - Formulation
Foto: Martin Klindtworth - fotomartinklindtworth.de

The next CosmeticBusiness tradeshow is shaping up to be a great success.
Explanations with a exclusive video of its representative for France...

Cosfibel Premium packs Viktor & Rolf fragrances

Perfume - Packaging and labeling

Cosfibel created the springtime boxes dedicated to the Bonbon and Flowerbomb fragrances, putting all its expertise into the particularly meticulous creation of the interior decorations, executed in silver hot stamping.
Based on an all-cardboard casing and a paper hinge held in place by 2 grosgrain ribbons, these boxes come in 3 references respectively dedicated to the perfumes Bonbon, Flowerbomb and Bloom, its summer flanker.
Inside, the wedge holds a bottle as well as a shower gel and a perfumed body lotion. A transparent PET surcingle molded to the shape of the products ensures that they stay in place, and tamper-evident stickers protect them. The ribbon decorations on each box are printed in keeping with the brand's universe, and the plastic seal is affixed by hand.

Bonbon, la vie en rose

Dressed in printed polyester paper, this model features a rounded lid. The ribbons are embossed in reserve. The wedge and inside of the lid are printed with candy motifs in hot stamping.

Flowerbomb and Bloom, of pearl pink
Based on a similar model, these two boxes feature lids punctuated with ridges. They are covered in pink coated paper with a pearl varnish that gives them their iridescent appearance.
The size and finesse of the decorations on the lid and wedge of the Flowerbomb box reveal Cosfibel Premium's expertise to the full.

 

Safety at the heart of Cosmetic Valley's scientific workshop

Cosmetic Valley - Cosmetics industry

As part of the partnership between Cosmetic Valley and Innovation Chimie Carnot/ I2C, an interactive workshop was held on Thursday, March 22, 2018 at Le Havre Normandie University on the theme of "Innovating in cosmetics with safety in mind". This scientific workshop is part of Cosmetic Valley's strategy of working in close partnership with the academic and industrial fabric around issues of Safety, Normandy's Domain of Territorial Strategic Excellence.

Lectures and presentations provided an insight into a wide range of subjects, including the mapping and reduction of preservatives in formulas, the analysis of plant extracts, outstanding research facilities, and product and consumer safety. Companies in the cosmetics industry were able to exchange views with I2C Carnot researchers and take part in a tour of URCOM laboratories and interactive technical workshops. The aim of the day, which brought together some fifty participants, was to transform these contacts into joint development projects between companies and research.

Innovation Chimie Carnot / I2C in brief 

I2C brings together 8 research entities in Normandy, France's 2nd largest chemical industry region. Pooling equipment and a high level of recognized expertise in organic, polymer, analytical and formulation chemistry, I2C supports innovation in the finished chemicals sector, particularly in cosmetics. The institute's researchers work in the fields of raw materials, product development and characterization, formulation, galenics, product-environment interactions and quality control. Cosmetic Valley is a member of the I2C Carnot Strategic Organization Committee, whose role is to build a shared vision, propose strategic directions and improve the match between supply and demand.

A major player in I2C , the URCOM laboratory (Research Unit in Organic and Macromolecular Chemistry) is made up of 12 teacher-researchers. The unit is involved in fundamental and applied research projects, supported by the Cosmetic Valley cluster, with numerous industrial partnerships (Johnson & Johnson, Endupack, Air Liquide, etc.) in various forms (CIFRE, FUI, collaborative contracts). URCOM's researchers can therefore be mobilized in a variety of areas: formulation and sensory analysis, prediction of sensory properties using instrumental measurements, the study of skin surface properties, etc.

www. i2c.normandie - univ.fr 

Givaudan to acquire Naturex, world leader in natural ingredients

Beauty - Face

As part of its 2020 strategy to strengthen its capabilities in natural flavor solutions for its customers, Givaudan announced on March 26 that it had reached an agreement to acquire 40.6 % of the shares of Naturex, a listed French company, at a price of EUR 135. - per share for a total amount of EUR 522 million. This agreement is subject to all appropriate regulatory approvals.
Givaudan intends to launch a mandatory cash tender offer for all outstanding Naturex shares, at a price of EUR 135. - per share. The Board of Directors and management of Naturex unreservedly approve this transaction.
Naturex is one of the world' s leading companies in plant extraction and the development of natural ingredients and solutions for the food, health and cosmetics sectors. Headquartered in Avignon (France), the company recorded sales of EUR 405 million in 2017, operates from 16 production sites worldwide and employs 1,700 people.
Gilles Andrier , Chief Executive Officer of Givaudan, said: "The acquisition of a significant stake in Naturex is perfectly in line with our 2020 strategy to broaden our offer to provide natural products to our customers. Givaudan is the world leader in natural flavors, and Naturex complements our capabilities with its strong portfolio of botanical extracts and natural ingredients for the food and beverage, nutrition and health, and personal care sectors. We look forward to working with Naturex's management and shareholders over the coming months to gain their support for the planned acquisition."

Louie D'Amico, President of Givaudan's Flavours Division, said: "Consumers around the world are increasingly looking to the food and beverage industry to offer them more natural and organic products. Naturex will perfectly complement the acquisitions we have announced in this field over the last few years, namely Spicetec, Activ International, Vika and Centroflora Nutra."

edition of the international contest The Cosmetic Victories

Cosmetic Valley - perfumery

"Innovation is the spearhead of the "France brand". The Cosmetic Valley competitiveness cluster has made it an absolute must. It's what keeps the French beauty industry ahead of the pack. The Cosmetic Victories international competition is designed to serve as a breeding ground for young creators in the sector. Marc - Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley.
Created in 2015 and supported by the Cosmetic Valley - ESSEC endowment fund, The Cosmetic Victories competition rewards the bearers of an innovative project related to the perfumery - cosmetics industry. Two prizes are awarded each year by a panel of industry experts:

▪ Prix Académique / Academic Prize
Candidates: young graduates, doctoral students, post-doctoral students, researchers.

▪ Prix Industrie/ Industry Prize
Candidates: entrepreneurs, start-ups and innovative SMEs.

Launched three years ago by the Cosmetic Valley competitiveness cluster and supported by an endowment fund set up in partnership with ESSEC, the Cosmetic Victories award two prizes: the Academic Prize and the Industry Prize.
Projects must involve innovation applicable to the perfumery - cosmetics industry in all areas of the sector: ingredients, formulation, testing, processes, packaging, chemistry, biotechnology, digital, distribution, new products and services. They must come from scientists, industrialists, students, researchers, managers of start-ups or small and medium-sized businesses. Innovations can originate from the perfumery and cosmetics industry, or from technology transfer from other industries.
Each winner receives a cash prize of 10,000 euros, as well as support from the Cosmetic Valley competitiveness cluster in the form of a presence at the Cosmetic 360 international cosmetics innovation trade show, support from the Cosmet'up platform, dedicated to accelerating innovative projects in the perfume and cosmetics industry, and a visibility package including national and international media coverage.

Six applications will be chosen by the selection committee, made up of industry professionals and international scientific experts. (3 per category).
2018 Selection Committee: Marcel CREST/CNRS (France) - Richard Daniellou/CNRS (France) - Carlos Edouardo DE OLIVEIRA PRAES/University of Barcelona (Spain) - Lai HUEYMIN/Industrial Technology Research Institute (Taiwan) - Christophe MASSON/Cosmetic Valle y (France) - Julien MOREL, ESSEC (France) - Benjamin MORLON/CNRS (France) - Carmen SOCACIU/Institute of Life Sciences ( Romania) - Normand VOYER/Université de Laval, Québec (Canada) - Neti WARANUCH/University of Pharmaceutical Sciences Naresuan (Thailand).

The two winners will be chosen by a jury of experts from research, the world's leading perfumery and cosmetics groups, and representative bodies of the profession. Among them: the Société française de Cosmétologie/SFC, the Fédération des entreprises de la Beauté/FEBEA, the Banque publique d'investissement/ BPI, the Centre National de recherche scientifique/CNRS and, of course, ESSEC and Cosmetic Valley.

Key dates :
March 30, 2018: closing date for applications
(online at: www.thecosmeticvictories.com)
April 20, 2018: announcement of the six shortlisted projects (3 nominations per award)
June 19, 2018: Cosmetic Victories award ceremony in Paris (1 winner per prize)

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